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Portuguese Coastal Camino Itinerary In Shorter Stages

Porto to Santiago de Compostela & the Spiritual Variant

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I’ve walked the Portuguese Coastal Camino from Porto many times and each time I make a few changes to my route.

These days I prefer to take my time, walk shorter stages, stay in more comfortable accommodation and allow enough time to enjoy the places I pass through.

This itinerary follows the route from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, including the Spiritual Variant. I’ve intentionally created shorter, more manageable stages for pilgrims who want time to explore, enjoy the food and culture of northern Portugal and Galicia, and experience their Camino without feeling rushed.

This is the way I would walk the Portuguese Coastal Camino today. Eighteen glorious days on the trail, with enough time to enjoy the beaches, historic towns and gastronomy that make this route so special.

Arriving in Porto  

Porto is a fabulous city.  We have visited many times, but still find new places to visit and explore.   If time allows, spend a day or two in Porto. Recover from your journey and discover the history that has made the city so popular. 

Where To Stay In Porto 

Read more about making the most of your time in Porto 

 Day 1 – Porto to Matosinhos/Boa Nova

I like a gentle start to my Camino and I love the walk beside the river out of Porto. I have walked the full stage to the albergue in Labruge but it makes for a long day.  Some pilgrims choose to skip the river walk to save time and you could take the metro, bus or Uber out to the Foz or even Matosinhos.  But if you have time, it’s a glorious few kilometres along the mighty Douro river.  

Wherever I stay, I make my way to the steps of Porto cathedral.  From there you need to ignore the yellow arrows and make your way down to the Ribeira water front.   

Arrows may be scarce but keep the river to your left and you’ll not get lost. Follow the water out of the city, onwards as it turns to estuary and eventually joins the Atlantic at Foz do Douro.  Turn right here and follow the Atlantic Ocean (almost all the way to Santiago).  

There are several beach cafes along the route; their opening hours will vary according to the season so be prepared to wander a little from the beach in the quiet season. 

Walking into Matosinhos, stay beside the beach until you reach the Tourist Information office.  You can collect a Sello here and there’s also an excellent beach cafe. 

As tomorrow’s stage is long, after lunch, I keep walking for a few more kilometres.  You can visit Matosinhos market if it’s open, the wonderful saltwater pools at Leca, and explore the ancient Capela da Boa Nova.  
A few hundred metres from the little chapel at Boa Nova, along the boardwalks, you’ll find Xiringuito Beach Club.  Stop here, have a drink, or a late lunch and savour the views. 

When you’re done, take an Uber back to your hotel in Matosinhos. Tomorrow morning you can return to the same spot and it saves you an hour on a long day!  

Where To Stay In Matosinhos

Read my step by step stage guide for day one

Day 2 – Matosinhos/Leca to Póvoa de Varzim 

If you followed my suggestion from yesterday’s stage, you’ll take an Uber back to where you ended your walk.  If you secured a bed in Leca or Perafita you can walk from the door. Either way today we walk on boardwalks beside the ocean.  

Many pilgrims call this route the coastal camino but it is in fact the Senda Litoral and for the most part it hugs the beaches.   You’ll pass through small fishing villages where you can take advantage of opportunities for hot or cold drinks.  

The last time I walked there were a few new cafes and pop-up food trucks which made the journey easier.  My motto is always, if you see a cafe and you’re tempted by the pause or a bathroom break, then err on the side of caution and stop. 

There is also a wonderful restaurant which I 100% recommend.  Rubens Dunas is very popular with the locals and you can enjoy an excellent 3 course meal for just 15€. 

 Walking on, the arrows lead you away from the beaches into Vila de Condo.  Do stop at the tiny Capela de São Sebastião de Azurara before crossing the bridge into Vila de Condo.   

Top Tip : There is a pilgrim albergue; the Albergue de Peregrinos Santa Clara but I read it may be closed for renovation so do check.  The Pousada de Juventude is a good choice but a little off the Camino. If you’re looking for a little more comfort, Naval Guest House & Bistro is a fabulous café and guesthouse right on the Camino.

Walking on to Povoa you can choose to hug the coast along the sea-front promenade from Vila de Conde, but it will add a kilometre or two to your journey.  I like to meander through the suburbs in to Povoa de Varzim. 

You’ll walk by the ancient Igreja Matriz de São João Baptista, built around 1496, and on through narrow residential streets which eventually lead you into the more modern suburbs. Do keep an eye out for local traffic as the streets are narrow in places.

Povoa is a large town and the arrows lead directly into the old town with streets lined with little shops and on to a glorious stretch of sandy beach.  

Where To Stay in Povoa de Varzim

I’ve stayed in the Albergue de Peregrinos São José de Ribamar. It’s open from March to November but you can’t reserve it; however there are other options for all budgets.

Read my step by step stage guides from Matosinhos to Povoa

Day 3 – Povoa de Varzim to Esposende 

Another glorious walk offering a different landscape from the previous days.   The camino leads you first along boardwalks and later by fields of market gardens and on through shadier forests and rural Portugal, following the yellow arrows until we reach Fao on the banks of the Cavado River. 

You can stay in Fao but if you’re not, 100m from the church on the left hand side of the road, is an excellent restaurant; Chale Tapas Bar is a great place to pause for late lunch. 

Before Esposende there’s another large bridge to cross. Pause as you cross and take in the views, they are better on the left side of the bridge.  And from here the arrows will guide you into the old town.  

Esposende is another popular seaside town with a wonderful estuary waterfront.  There are options to stay in town or walk a little further on to the Sauve Mar hotel.  Whichever you choose, do take some time to explore the old streets.

Where To Stay in Esposende

Read my step by step stage guide from Povoa to Esposende

Day 4 – Esposende to Anha

More variety today, which makes for a glorious walk.  I will change this stage the next time I walk the Coastal Camino and this itinerary reflects that change.  

The walk from Esposende to Viana Do Castelo is the first that brings any real elevation and it’s a longer day at almost 26 kilometres. Next time, I plan to stop in Chafe or Anha, making a shorter walk into Viana, which allows more time to explore all of her treasures!

Leaving Esposende we go inland and up through little villages, suburbs and old forests.  Do pause at the Parish Church of São Miguel das Marinhas.  It looks modern, but its origins date back to the 11th century.  

Also in Belhino, look out for a small sign attached to a lamp-post for Bar Cafe Lampião. It’s just off the trail and worth the detour.  You’ll be gifted cookies with honey, fresh peanuts and incredibly quirky decor for your efforts.

Beyond this you’ll cross the river Neiva, by way of the Ponte do Sebastião and walk up to the Castelo do Neiva Church.  Do stop here because, consecrated by Bishop Nausto in 862, it is one of the oldest churches dedicated to Saint James in the Iberian Peninsula. 

There are services today but if you’re walking at the weekend or outside of the busy season they may be limited, so ensure you have snacks and water.  Thankfully, there is a very lovely pilgrim stop in the forest which offers food and drinks. 

Where To Stay in Chafe and Anha

I haven’t stayed in these hotels but I would 100% choose either, given the location and the reviews.

 Read my step by step stage guide From Esposende to Viana

Day 5 – Anha to Viana do Castelo

Day 4 and 5 can be easily merged if you’re happy with a longer day.  The reason I wish to break this stage is because Viana de Castelo is a town with an incredible history and worth a longer visit.  Most pilgrims arrive and some may wander into the old town but few venture to the Sanctuary above the city and even less visit the ancient Citania ruins.

From either Chafe or Anha, the arrows lead you out of the forest and eventually across the huge Ponte Eiffel that was indeed designed by Monsieur Eiffel. 

Top Tip: Be warned this bridge is high and long and can be difficult for some pilgrims.  It is very safe but I know that for some it feels a lot!

The old town of Viana de Castelo is worth exploring and do check out dinner options,  especially on a Sunday.   And if you’ve allowed time, take the funicular up to the Basílica de Santa Luzia.  Built in the early 20th century, the sanctuary offers spectacular views of the town, the Lima River, and the Atlantic Ocean.

Just a short walk from the basilica, is the Iron Age settlement of Citânia de Santa Luzia, dating back to the 7th century BC. 

Where To Stay in Viana do Castela 

Read my step by step stage guide to Viana Do Castelo:

 Day 6 – Viana de Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora 

You have choices today.  You can follow the Coastal Camino inland, you can stay beside the beach, you can even map your own path.  Or you can follow what I feel is the best of all worlds!

I like to head to the waterfront; if you stay in Hotel Jardim, it’s just across the road.  Go see the sun rise over the water and look back at the bridge you crossed yesterday.  Walk back to the road and on to the Forte de Santiago da Barra. 

From there, head back to the coast; you can ignore any arrows as they will take you inland.  Instead we are going to walk along this glorious stretch of coastline. On a Sunday the path is busy with dog walkers and families and joggers.  Remember to keep an eye on the information boards and search for the ancient salt pans. 

 Around halfway, we turn inland.  There is a beach bar here, which isn’t open on a Monday but if closed head directly up to the main road (you’re going that way anyway).  There is a nice little cafe just down from the roundabout. 

From here we’re following arrows and going up into the hills. Walk through the village, across a railway line and onwards along cobble paths and eucalyptus  forests.  

Partway along, if you are very lucky, you’ll get to pause at Cafe de Cabanas, although sadly closed on Monday and Tuesday.  You can also stay here if you’d like to go super-slow or even stop here and then spend the night in Caminha tomorrow. 

Ancora is all about the beaches. The arrows will direct you but google maps might help.  

At night do find a cafe on the sea front, and watch the sunset and enjoy what I think is one of the prettiest beaches so far.  And maybe your last night in Portugal?

Where To Stay in Vila Praia de Ancora 

Read my step by step Stage guide from Viana to Vila Praia de Ancora

Day 7 – Vila Praia de Ancora to A Guarda 

Today is your last day in Portugal and you take the ferry across the Minho to Spain. On paper today seems like an easy day but you want to allow extra time to explore Caminha, take the ferry and get to see a little of A Guarda.

If you really want to go slow, you might consider spending the night in the very lovely Design & Wine Hotel or if you prefer bunks, there is also a highly rated pilgrim albergue. 

My daily stage guide explains the options for walking into Caminha; I recommend the little forest trail to the estuary.  From Caminha pilgrims choose to walk inland toward Valenca and Tui on the central route, but for this itinerary, you will take the water taxi to Spain. 

Before you cross, do allow a little time to visit the town; it has a pretty little square and worthy of a visit.  For the crossing, I would recommend Xacobeo Taxi, who also partner with Popeye.  You can purchase your ticket online to guarantee your spot. 

Top Tip: When the water taxi drops you in Spain don’t forget there will be an hour time difference.   

From the landing point, the arrows take you up and over the headland but if you’re feeling adventurous you can stick to the coast and map your own path around the headland.

A Guarda is picture postcard perfect.  You’ll find lots of seafood restaurants and one of my favourite hotels too!  

Top Tip:  If you have time you can walk or take a taxi to the incredible ancient celtic fort Castro de Santa Trega.

Where To Stay in A Guarda

Read my step by step stage guide from Ancora to A Guarda

Day 8 – A Guarda to Oia (Viladesuso)

You have a gentle day today so you can linger over breakfast and meander along this wild coast towards Oia.   Partway along there is a small cafe, offering a very welcome pause and bathroom break, I recommend taking advantage of the stop!

As you walk, also take a moment to explore the Cetarea Da Redonda and see if you can spot the Petróglifos de Portecelo along the trail. And at the entrance of the village of Oia you’ll walk by Ermita de San Sebastián; stop and light a candle and pause a while before walking into the village.

Oia is a tiny fishing village, built around the incredible Monastery of Santa María de Oia. You’ll find a fabulous restaurant overlooking the sea and another very nice little bar beside it. Stop for lunch and explore the monastery.

I have stayed in Oia but recently I walked on for an hour (an easy walk) to Hotel Glasgow.  An excellent choice and we shaved an hour off our walk into Baiona. 

Where To Stay in Oia or Viladesuso

 Read my step by step stage guides from A Guarda to Oia

Day 9 – Oia to Baiona 

Today for me is a mixed bag.  We follow the coast, enjoy fabulous views and walk over the beautiful headland at Monte Silleiro.  And if all this is not enough we end the day in the historic town of Baiona.

Between these things there is however some road walking on what I’ve nick-named the Yellow Brick Path.  It’s perfectly safe but slopes to the left and my old body really dislikes this.

Yellow path aside, today is beautiful.  Leaving Oia behind you’ll see a windmill on the distant coast; if you’re lucky you’ll find a coffee here (they also offer inexpensive rooms.)  

After the windmill and campsite you can opt to continue along the road for the entire stage or follow the arrows over the headland.  Trust me the headland is glorious and well worth the elevation. 

I have stayed many times in Baiona and every time I have stayed in the historic fortress atop the Monterreal Peninsula, where a Parador Hotel now sits.  For history buffs it was here that the Pinta sailed across the ocean and broke the news to Europe of the existence of the Americas.

Where To Stay in Baiona

Read my step by step stage guide from Oia to Biaona

Day 10 – Baiona to Samil Beach

Today you can choose to hug the coast and even walk along the vast sandy beaches or you can opt to go inland.  Again trust me.  Hug the beaches.  Follow the coast wherever you can and you’ll enjoy some of the most spectacular sandy beaches Galicia has to offer. 

The full stage takes you to Vigo and I have walked this before but on my last walk we stopped short at Samil Beach.  We stayed in maybe one of the nicest hotels I have stayed in on my travels and we really didn’t want to leave.

Between the two locations we followed the yellow and sometimes pale green arrows of the Vigo coastal variant.  Whilst arrows are a little sparse, follow the coast and from the ancient bridge at Ramallosa, go left and walk beside the water.  The arrows will take you over a residential headland and onto the huge Playa America.  From here you continue along the beach to the headland and back to the beach and headland. (I use the wise pilgrim app if I’m unsure but google maps is just as good).

There are opportunities to pause, walk on the sand and even go for a dip.  Wear sandals and just fall in love with the coast today!

Where To Stay In Samil Beach

 Read my step by step guide from Baiona to Samil (Vigo)

Day 11 – Samil Beach to Vigo | 7 kms 

Today is a relatively easy day.  There is no need to rush and if you’ve stayed in Attica then you’ll want to make the most of your stay.

I have walked into Vigo many times and there are a few things which will impact the route you take.  1) the location of your hotel and 2) how happy you are to just follow your nose and not the arrows.

This time we opted to try to stay as close to the beaches and waterfront as possible.  We walked along the sand, never 100% sure there was an exit. We took paths that locals took and we followed the water all the way to Bouzas and the Church of San Miguel. 

We took our time and met a number of other pilgrims doing the same and we really enjoyed that morning.  After Bouzas, for us there was no choice but to follow the pedestrian path beside the Vigo dockyards until we reached the modern shopping and waterfront area.  There was no way to avoid those 3.5kms but at least the path on the left hand side of the road is smooth and makes for easy walking.

We had coffee at the waterfront before dropping our bags at the hotel and setting off to explore the old town.  

Most pilgrims are tired when they arrive but we had fresh legs and I followed every little street and plaza and really enjoyed my time in Vigo.  If you choose to stay an extra day why not go visit the Cies islands for the day; or at least go visit the tiny museum on the old quarter which explains why they are so important.

Vigo is famous for its seafood, you can visit the market, or find a tapas bar for a seafood lunch. Whatever you choose, you will have a glorious day in Vigo! 

Where To Stay in Vigo

Vigo is a large city, built on hills and there is a huge choice of accommodation.  For me I am looking for somewhere within easy reach of the sites but also within easy reach of the Camino.  My choices are based on those criteria.

Read my step by step stage guide from Baiona to Vigo

Day 12 – Vigo to Redondela (Soutoxuste)  

Walking out of a big city is never easy, and Vigo seems harder than some! Over the years I have found my own way of finding the arrows and whilst I’ve looked at, and tested other routes, I still feel my choice is best.  

I have full instructions and a map in my stage guide but basically make your way to Rúa do Príncipe, keep walking to Rúa de Urzáiz and just keep going.  It’s a long straight road and you will pick up arrows as you near the edge of the city.  

You’ll end up at the Igrexa Parroquial da Inmaculada Concepción (a very modern looking church) and from here the arrows will lead you all the way to Redondela.

We follow the Senda da Traída das Augas, through forests and with panoramic views of the estuary you walked to yesterday and the impressive Ponte de Rande.   At Redondela, our Coastal route merges with the Central Portuguese camino and you’ll notice the trail is much busier.  

Redondela is called the town of viaducts, since the late XIX century it has boasted remarkable railway viaducts, and offers pilgrims everything they need.  There is plenty of pilgrim history, restaurants, several albergues, launderettes and supermarkets.  Every time I’ve walked the Coastal route I have stayed in Redondela.  But last time I decided to have a leisurely lunch in Redondela and walk on for another hour.

I had read such great reviews about a little house called Casa d’Mina, directly on the Camino after one of the long hills out of the Redondela.  Oh my what a great decision!  

Were to Stay In Redondela

Read my step by step stage guide from Vigo Redondela (& Mina)

Day 13 – Redondela to Pontevedra | 18 kms 

If you stayed at Casa D’Mina the camino is at the front door.  The route has changed since I last walked and gone is the steep down, the blue and yellow boots and the busy highway walk into Arcade. Instead you immediately follow the arrows up a steep steep hill and then walk through the forest on a pretty trail until you reach Arcade.  

Arcade is famed for its oyster banks, which are perfectly accompanied by the local wine of Rías Baixas; Gerry’s favourite Albarino. If you have time, go and explore a little of Arcade’s waterfront, which will lead you to the town’s famous bridge.  

The historic Ponte Sampaio, where the Camino crosses the Verdugo River, changed the course of history during the War of Independence.  It was here that Napoleon’s army suffered one of its greatest defeats and were forced to retreat!   

 From the bridge you climb up and up along the ancient roman stone paths of the Verea Vella da Canicouva.  I cannot tell you how much I love this walk and this forest.  If the trail is busy then pause a while and a gap will come. Enjoy this forest and take your time; it will be over all too quickly.  

Before Pontevedra there is a choice of routes, unless it’s been very wet, take the River Option.  It’s beautiful and will lead you directly into Pontevedra and you can follow the arrows into the old town.   

Where To Stay In Pontevedra

Read my step by step stage guide from Redondela to Pontevedra

Day 14 – Pontevedra to Combarro (Spiritual Variant)

After leaving the old town of Pontevedra we continue on through rural Galicia but today we turn away from the traditional Portuguese Camino and start the journey along the Spiritual Variant.  Most folks will tell you that you can walk the Variant in three days and you can, but I’d suggest adding a day because it’s glorious.

Top Tip: When you reach the split from the traditional Camino, you must go left and follow the new Variant arrows. Going right will take you under a railway bridge and on to Caldas del Rei which you do not want.

The first stage takes you from Pontevedra to Armenteira but this involves a steep climb at the end of the day.  It also means you may not fully explore the Monastery at Poio or the delights of Combarro; one of Spain’s most beautiful seaside villages.  

Instead, take your time, allow an extra day.  Stop for coffee in Cabaleiro, spend time in the monastery in Poio and visit the church, the cloister with its incredible mosaic, the small museum and the huge grain store!

Afterwards it’s an easy walk, back along the coast and into Combarro.  Arrive in time for a late lunch beside the sea and if you love shell fish then you’re in for a treat!

Combarro is small but perfectly preserved.  The waterfront is lined with restaurants and the streets behind lined with little artisan shops and small holiday cottages.  There are lots of accommodation choices and it’s well worth spending the night here.

Where To Stay in Combarro

Read my step by step stage guide from Pontevedra to Combarro

Day 15 – Combarro to Os Castanos 

There’s no avoiding the hill today.  So far on the Portuguese Coastal, you’ve faced a little elevation but the walk out of Combarro is probably the longest and the hardest.

But don’t let the hill dampen your spirits because whilst it’s a little tough, it’s far from impossible and along the way you can pause and soak up the stunning views and look out for the 4,000-year-old petroglyphs from the Bronze Age, carved into rocks.  

And once over the top, you’ll walk down into the valley to the stunning Monastery of Armenteira.  

Built in 12th century and still home to very welcoming nuns.   The monastery was established by the Cistercian order and is known for its simple, contemplative lifestyle.   You can visit the church, the cloisters and the little shop.

After exploring the Monastery, and having refreshments in the cafe next door, my itinerary takes you on to the route of stone and water.  This glorious, magical trail is lined with ancient water mills, a babbling river, shaded by an equally ancient forest!  

I choose to walk this after the hill as the forest is magical, and even more so once the sun is high in the sky.  When we walked at first light we missed the sunbeams! 

Take a picnic lunch and eat beside the river.  And when you’ve done, walk the final few kilometres to a little rural hotel, which is immediately on the Camino.

Where To Stay In Armenteira or Os Castanos

Read my step by step stage guide from Combarro to Os Castanos

Day 16 – Os Castanos to Vilanova de Arousa 

You walk away from the rural landscape today and head back to the coast for your last night on the Spritual Variant.  

It’s a relaxing kind of day but there aren’t a lot of services so do make sure you’ve drinks and snacks.  Although there is a very welcome stop at Hostal O Legado de Ramira in Ponte Arnelas.

The camino does a good job of taking you off the roads. You’ll walk through little villages and vineyards, and we did find a few timely bars later in the day, and eventually found our way back to the coast.

Follow arrows along the beaches to the footbridge across the Arousa Estuary to Vilanova de Arousa.  This is another pretty little coastal fishing town.  Pilgrims often stop for the night before taking the Traslatio Boat to Padron.

Where To Stay In Vilanova do Arousa

Read my step by step guide from Os Castanos to Vilanova do Arousa

Day 17 – Vilanova de Arousa to A Escravitude 

While it’s possible to walk the 32 km from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures, most pilgrims take the Traslatio Route; the maritime journey that follows the arrival of the remains of the Apostle.   

I would recommend that you book your ticket in advance, we opted for the 11:30am departure, giving us time to have breakfast and explore the town a little before leaving.  Some boats leave at first light but having done both, I prefer the later sailing. Visit my stage post for details on boat operators and how to reserve your sailing. 

You dock just before Padron at Puente Romano de Pontecesures.  This historic bridge spans the Ulla River, and whilst the modern structure dates from the 12th century, it is believed to have been built on an earlier Roman bridge. 

From here you have the option to take another variant that leads to Herbon Monastery; you can send the night in the pilgrim albergue, or simply visit and walk on to Padron. Do allow some time to explore Padron; a little market town with a huge history.

You can stop the night, especially if you wish to visit the church (which opens after 5pm).  Or like me, walk on and save some of the distance into Santiago de Compostela.  

The arrows lead you into the suburbs and on to Iria Flavia. And it always makes me a little sad when I see so many pilgrims walk by this little church, not realising that it was here that James lived and preached the gospels.

Do visit 1^st century church, it is the oldest Christian church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It will most likely be closed but nonetheless it’s worth walking around.  From here, follow the arrows on to your chosen hotel for the night.  The longer you walk today, the shorter you walk into Santiago tomorrow.

Where To Stay After Padron

Read my step by step guides from Vilanova do Arousa to beyond Padron

Day 18 – A Escravitude to Santiago de Compostela

Today is all about your final walk into Santiago.  New trails have taken pilgrims off the road and onto quieter paths, the walk is beautiful but nonetheless, the aim is the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

There are a few stops along the way but I do recommend you have breakfast before setting off. And as contrary as it sounds, because you have one goal, do try not to rush.  Make the most of this last day on the trail.

The path is well marked but there is one confusing set of arrows just before the city where two markers sit side by side.  I always follow the path on the left.

As you approach the old town, look out for steps on the left leading into a park.  You can continue along the road, but Alameda Park is at the top of the steps, and both lead you to the same pedestrian crossing.

From the crossing you enter this UNESCO world heritage town, walking through ancient streets and following in the footsteps of millions of pilgrims.  

No matter how many times I walk into Obradoiro Plaza, I still feel my eyes sting and goosebumps on my arms; arriving at the Cathedral de Santiago is always a special moment. 

 Where To Stay in Santiago de Compostela

I have an entire post dedicated to my favourite places in Santiago.  Do take a look if you need more suggestions but for me there are three iconic choices!

 Read More about Santiago de Compostela in my posts:

Your Complete Portuguese Coastal Camino

Well done! You made it to the end of my itinerary and hopefully you feel more confident about planning your own Portuguese Coastal Camino.

If you’d like a little more help as you plan, you may also find these resources useful:

Whatever steps you take next, may they be blister free and full of wonder!