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Vila Praia de Ancora to A Guarda: Step by Step Guide to Stage 6 of the Camino Portuguese Coastal

Created by Colleen | Updated : 17 January 2025 | ,

Today, you’re walking to Spain. If you staying with the coastal route, you’ll cross into Galicia and pay the ferryman to carry you across the Rio Minho. The clocks move forward an hour, café con leche will be your morning coffee and you’ll hear Buen Camino instead of the Portuguese Bom Caminho.  

The stage from Vila Praia de Ancora to A Guarda is wonderful. Caminha, the border town on the Portuguese side of the river, is well worth an visit but you’ll also have decisions to make.  You can follow the Minho River inland to Valença and cross into Spain at Tui.  Or you can follow Galicia’s wild coast through A Guarda, Oia, and Baiona to Vigo.

Both routes are wonderful, but my heart lies on the Galician coast and the days ahead are some of my favourites.

And my stages differ from other guides, but that’s ok.  I adore this coast and every time I walk, I feel sad when it’s time to leave. Don’t rush; the trail is too glorious to just walk through. Enjoy fresh seafood in A Guarda, the wild coast at Oia, and the history of Baiona! 

Come with me, and I’ll show you why the Coastal Route from Porto is so special.

the beautiful waterfront in A Guarda with clear seas and colourful houses

Route Overview: Vila Praia de Ancora to A Guarda Stage (15.3 km)

Today’s stage is shorter, but that’s no bad thing. It gives you time to explore Caminha before catching the ferry to Spain, and perhaps enjoy a swim in A Guarda or a very late leisurely lunch overlooking the colourful houses that line the waterfront.

The route is well-marked and the trail is easy underfoot, though you’ll encounter a little elevation when crossing the headland in Spain. But the climb is worth the effort, as the views looking back across to Portugal are fabulous; and I always love to see where we’ve walked.

In Caminha, you’ll need to take a water taxi to cross the Rio Minho. You can book ahead, but make sure you allow time to explore Caminha before leaving. And don’t forget to adjust your watch; Spain is an hour ahead, which can be a bit disorienting for a day or two.

If you’re walking in the autumn months, you’ll notice the darker mornings. I’ve walked a few times in November and that extra hour can make a difference to your daylight walking hours.

As always, there are a few variants to consider, but read on and I’ll explain your options. Overall, this is an easy and enjoyable walk, made wonderful  by the adventure of crossing into Spain by ferry.

  • Vila Praia de Ancora to A Guarda Distance: 15.3 km
  • Vila Praia de Ancora to A Guarda Elevation Gain: 57 m | Elevation Loss: 43 m
  • Coastal variante around the headland in Spain : 19.3 km

Top Tip : these distances include the crossing on the water, so you’re not walking every step.

map for the stage from Vila Nova de Ancora to A Guarda on the Camino Portuguese Coastal
elevation profile for the stage from Vila Nova de Ancora to A Guarda on the Camino Portuguese Coastal

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Towns and Villages Between Vila Praia de Ancora and A Guarda

As you’d expect on a shorter day, there aren’t too many services today, but the ones available are well spaced and you’ll have choices. Even so, always carry enough water to see you through.

And don’t forget to allow time to visit Caminha before taking the ferry; it’s worth a proper look around.

Vila Praia de Ancora

You’ll leave Ancora as the sun is rising. The trail to Caminha is exposed for the first few kilometres, so plan ahead as mornings can be surprisingly chilly.

The path follows the coastline, taking you past Fort da Lagarteira; the towns 17th-century fort.  The footpath here is easy to follow, dotted with benches and occasional artworks. It’s an easy stroll and all the while looking ahead at the pointed hill of Santa Trega in Spain.

Stick to the coastal path and you’ll pass the tiny Chapel of Santa Isidoro. It’s often locked, but there’s a little peephole in the door where you can look inside and information boards about the church.

The origins of the Chapel of Santo Isidoro aren’t entirely clear, but records suggest it existed as early as the 14th century. In 1648, it underwent a documented repair, and it became notable due to a confraternity of fourteen local parishes associated with the chapel.

From here the trail leads you onwards to the sweeping bay at Moledo and along the way, you might find yourself in the company of grazing sheep or goats.

walking along the coast from Ancora to A Guarda with the pointed hills of Spain on the horizon

Moledo (4.7 km)

This are some confusing arrows as you walk around the beach. Partway along, you’ll see arrows pointing you under the railway line, leading you onto pavements and eventually into Caminha. This was the way I walked on my first Camino.  However, I’d recommend ignoring this route and keep walking.

The last time I walked, there was also an arrow pointing straight ahead and I feel this is a nicer alternative. Keep walking straight; you can deviate to the coast but I go straight, through quiet residential streets along pavements until the houses end, about 900 metres further on.

At this point, arrows may direct you onto a busy road but ignore these and instead, turn left into Rua De Fontela. Partway down this road, on the right, you’ll see granite bollards marking the start of a forest trail.

This is the easiest route into Caminha and far prettier than the pavement alternative. You’ll walk along a trail that brings you out by the estuary, around 1.5 kilometres later. From here, it’s an easy walk into Caminha, keeping the water on your left as you go.  It might add 5 or 10 minutes to your day but it’s a much better option.

From the forest you just keep the water on your left until you reach Caminha.

Caminha (4.8 km)

Caminha, the last town in Portugal’s northwestern corner, lies at the confluence of the Minho and Coura rivers. This area has been a site of human settlement for millennia, with its roots tracing back to prehistoric times. It was the Romans, however, who developed it into a key stage on their trading routes, establishing a military outpost in the region.

Frequent raids by Moors and Normans led to the town’s depopulation, but by the 13th century, King Afonso III recognized its strategic importance and fortified the town, building a castle to protect it.

Pilgrims on the Coastal Camino have long passed through Caminha, crossing the River Minho on their way to Santiago de Compostela. Just as we do today, they would have taken a boat across the water. With such a rich history, this little town is worth exploring before leaving Portugal; even if you only have an hour. 

the old parish church in Caminha

Where to Stay in Caminha

Many pilgrims make Caminha their end stage and choose from here to cross into Spain or walk on to Valenca.  There are a few options :

  • Municipal Pilgrim Albergue (Albergue de Peregrinos de Caminha) : A traditional albergue offers a mix of bunks and beds, with all the essential pilgrim services. It’s a large albergue, and while you can’t reserve in advance, my walking buddies have stayed here and were happy with their choice.
  • Olá Vida – Hostel Caminha : Olá Vida offers a mix of bunk beds and private rooms. It’s clean, tidy, and very comfortable, with a small kitchen and a central location. The owner speaks excellent English, and they also cater to cyclists.
  • Design and Wine Hotel : I stayed here once after falling and twisting my ankle (yes, again!). I knew I wouldn’t make it to Valença the following day, so I opted for a comfortable night and a hearty breakfast. The hotel is modern, stylish, and I enjoyed my stay.  If you’re looking for a bit of indulgence, this is a good choice.
goats on the trail en route to Caminha

Water Taxi (1.6 km)

Caminha is served by two water taxi options to take you across the Minho River into Spain. Both services are reliable and can be reserved online, but do make sure you allow enough time to explore Caminha before crossing.

  • Bar Ferry – Taxi-Mar : At the end of the Promenade, where the Coura River meets the Minho, you’ll find a bar ferry operated by Taxi-Mar. The bar is a good place to pause for refreshments and there are public toilets behind the building.  I haven’t used this taxi myself, but it’s highly rated, and reservations can be made in advance.
  • Xacobeotransfer – Xunta Water Taxi : The Xunta-recognised Xacobeotransfer is another excellent choice, especially for pilgrims with bicycles. I’ve used this service several times (it was the only available option for years). It’s always been reliable and booking online is simple.

Both taxis will take you across the river in about 20 minutes, landing at A Pasaxe in Spain. Ours offered to stamp our credencials when we landed too! Welcome to Spain! Don’t forget to check the time; Spain is an hour ahead of Portugal.

Top Tip : Our taxi was delayed on one crossing and there was no shade at the meeting point; a sun hat or some sun protection was absolutely needed as it was very hot!

taking the water taxi across from to Spain at Caminha

From A Pasaxe To A Guarda

From A Pasaxe, follow the yellow arrows as they guide you up through A Pasaxe, Palomar, and a forested trail. The route is well-marked, and soon you’ll emerge on the other side, heading into A Guarda.

If you’re feeling adventurous and want to extend your day, You can opt to stay on the coast. Ignore the yellow arrows and follow the trails around the headland beside the sea. The rugged coastline is glorious but it does add about 4 extra kilometres and requires a bit adventurous spirit since there are no arrows.  Here is a map of the routes and trails provided by A Guarda Tourism.

walking the forest trail over the headland to A Guarda

Castro de Santa Tetro and the Miradoiro de Santa Trega

Just as you are entering A Guarda after the forest, you’ll see a small road on the left leading up to the Castro de Santa Trega. If you’d like to visit this site, be prepared for a hike; it’s a 2.5-kilometre walk to reach the site, with another 2.5 kilometres to come back down.

The climb takes you to the top of the headland, where the castro is located. Alternatively, if your legs have had enough for the day, you can take a taxi from the town after settling into your accommodation.

The Castro de Santa Trega is a significant archaeological site perched atop Monte de Santa Trega, the mountain you’ve been following since leaving Vila Praia de Ancora. Dating back to the 4th century BC, the site is predominantly Roman but also believed to have been home to the Celtic Grovios tribes. It is thought that perhaps up to 5,000 people lived here in the distinctive circular stone dwellings, a characteristic of the local Castro culture.

If you continue past the castro, you’ll reach the Miradoiro de Santa Trega, a viewpoint offering truly breathtaking panoramas of the Minho River estuary, the Atlantic coastline, and the surrounding landscapes of Galicia and Portugal.

While few pilgrims add this climb to their day, it’s worth considering if you have the time and energy. If the hike feels daunting, taking a taxi is a great way to explore this archaeological jewel in Galicia’s crown.

artwork showing the Galician pipes and the Castro at Santa Tegra

A Guarda (4.2 km)

As you approach A Guarda centre, I recommend using Google Maps to navigate to your bed. The yellow arrows will guide you in and out of the town and onwards toward Santiago de Compostela, but most hotels and hostels are located closer to the harbour.

Follow the arrows into town, and pass by Hotel Eli Mar. From Rua Joaquín Alonso, drop down to the waterfront and explore the harbour area.  From here the arrows will lead you out and not down.

A Guarda is absolutely wonderful. I know I keep saying this about these towns, but it really is true! If you’re only walking through today, you’ll likely pass the more functional, modern part of town without discovering its true charm beside the sea.

Take the time to explore. Stop for lunch, enjoy dinner by the sea, or better yet, spend the night here. A Guarda has so much to offer.  And congratulations! You’re in Galicia, and Santiago de Compostela is getting closer every day.

a bowl of hot prawns in garlic and peppers and chorizo; spanish tapas

Exploring A Guarda

While the Castro de Santa Trega showcases A Guarda’s ancient roots, the modern fishing village began to flourish much later, during the Middle Ages, around the 10th century. For centuries, the town’s identity has been tied to the sea, with fishing and shellfish the backbone of its economy.

In the Middle Ages, A Guarda’s strategic location also made it a defensive stronghold, and remnants of medieval walls still stand. Later, during the 19th and 20th centuries, emigration to the Americas brought prosperity back to the town. Returning emigrants invested in their hometown, leaving behind a legacy of elegant Indian houses, inspired by the architecture of the Americas.

The name Indian here refers to the emigrants themselves, who were called Indianos for their time spent in the Americas, historically called the Indies.

  • Monastery of Benedictinas: Founded in 1558, this monastery highlights A Guarda’s religious heritage and evolving architecture over the centuries.
  • Parish Church of St Mary: Built on a 10th-century religious site, the church was expanded in the 16th century under Bishop Diego de Torquemada.
  • Museo del Mar: A small museum, offering insight into the fishing traditions that shaped the town; you can walk by this as you leave but it’s not open early so visit during the day if you wish to see inside.

Above all, take time to stroll along the harbour and find a table for some fabulous seafood. A Guarda with its colourful harbour front houses is definitely worth exploring.

the harbour walls of A Guarda from the beach

Where to Stay in A Guarda

A Guarda offers plenty of accommodation options, primarily hotels, but there are also albergues, including an excellent private hostel.

  • Albergue de Peregrinos de A Guarda : The Xunta municipal albergue is a functional and affordable choice for pilgrims. It offers basic bunk accommodations and essential services for those looking to keep costs low.
  • Hotel Monumento Convento de San Benito : I cannot stress enough how much I love this hotel. It’s a wonderful place to stay, with historic charm and great location.  And they provide a gluten-free breakfast for those who need it too.  I can’t wait until I visit again!
  • Albergue O Peirao : Found just a short walk back from harbor, this is a great choice for budget-conscious pilgrims; offering bunks but they have my favourite privacy curtains!  This albergue is popular, so I recommend booking in advance.
gerry in the lounge of the beautiful Convento Hotel

Potential Challenges Between Vila Praia de Âncora and A Guarda

Oddly, for such a short day, many of my groups find this stage tiring. I suspect it’s due to the pause between Caminha and A Guarda; a long stop can sometimes disrupt your walking momentum.

  • Water Taxi Timing: The most important challenge of the day is ensuring you make the ferry! I always allow more time than I think I’ll need; it’s better to relax in Caminha than to rush and risk missing the boat.
  • The Weather: Coastal walks can be unpredictable, with exposure to sun, wind, or rain. Be prepared with layers, a sunhat, sunscreen, and a waterproof jacket to handle whatever the day brings.
  • Forest Variant: There are a few confusing arrows today, but the best route into Caminha is via the forest trail. This avoids the urban pavements and gives you a lovely walk alongside the Minho estuary.
  • Coastal Variante in Spain : If you opt for the longer coastal route make sure you have plenty of water, as services are sparse. And use the map provided by the A Guarda Tourist Office to help navigate the footpaths and trails as there are no arrows to guide you.
  • Sunday Openings: If you arrive in A Guarda on a Sunday, be mindful of limited options. Have lunch and pick up supplies at a supermarket for your evening meal. Restaurants in Spain have later hours often meaning dinner might not be available until after 9 pm.
  • Time Change: Remember, the clocks go forward as you cross into Spain. In spring, the longer daylight hours soften the impact, but in autumn, you’ll notice darker mornings.
  • Arrows into A Guarda Centre :  Once in A Guarda, the yellow arrows will guide you through the town but not necessarily to your accommodation, which is often closer to the harbour.  Don’t keep following the arrows as they’ll lead you through rather than down to the harbour.

Top Tip : If you plan a short walk tomorrow to Oia, my groups have gone shopping in A Guarda for a shared supper.  Again, check the supermarket hours if you wish to do the same and ensure you can go grocery shopping!

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

walking from Ancora to Caminha on the coastal path

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites for the Coastal Camino

If you’re walking any stage of the Camino Portuguese Coastal, these apps, guidebooks, and websites are invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

  • AlertCops: A free app that connects you directly with the Spanish police. While not particularly useful in Portugal, it’s excellent for peace of mind once you cross the border. Remember, the emergency international operator in Portugal (and across Europe) is 112.
  • What3Words: A lifesaver in emergencies, this app pinpoints your exact location to a 3×3 metre square anywhere in the world. It’s free to download and invaluable if needed.
  • Wise Pilgrim: Though not free, this app is well worth a few euros. It’s packed with helpful information about the Portuguese Camino and it’s been on my phone for many years.
  • Google Translate: English is widely spoken in Portugal, but this app is handy for menus, signs, or conversations. You can type, take a photo (great for menus), or speak into it for instant translations. Download the Portuguese and Spanish languages in advance for offline use.
  • Casa Ivar: A trusted source for purchasing credentials, pilgrim shells, or luggage forwarding to Santiago. Ivar also runs the international pilgrim forum and has lived in Santiago for many years.
  • John Brierley Guides: The go-to guidebook for Camino pilgrims. Compact, regularly updated, and filled with useful details. The Portuguese guide covers the route from Lisbon, including both the Coastal and Central routes.
  • WhatsApp: Many albergues and pilgrim services prefer communication via WhatsApp. Be sure to download it before leaving home, as some phones may block new app installs overseas.
  • Airalo: Not an app but an eSIM provider that’s easy to set up before departure. It allows you to connect to mobile data as soon as you arrive. Check if your phone supports eSIMs, as it’s a hassle-free alternative to finding a physical SIM card.
  • Revolut and Wise Bank Cards: Not apps but travel essentials. Both Revolut and Wise cards make paying for services and withdrawing foreign currency simple and offer favourable exchange rates. Setting them up can take time, especially for American users, but they’re highly reliable and accepted in both Portugal and Spain.  We’ve used both these currency cards globally and would not travel without them.

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

the views of the Minho Estuary from the hills as you walk over the headland to A Guarda

Final Thoughts: Camino Portuguese from Vila Praia de Âncora to A Guarda

Today is an important milestone on the Camino Portuguese as you cross from Portugal into Spain. The kilometres are ticking down, and with Vigo and the final 100 kilometres to Santiago de Compostela not far now.

In just a few days, you’ve walked from the fabulous city of Porto, followed this ancient coastline, and now you’ve arrived in Galicia and the northern coasts of Spain.

I love the walk from Vila Praia de Ancora, I love the ferry crossing that takes you across the borders, and the little fishing town of A Guarda. I don’t even mind the climb up into the hills after the ferry; its all part of the journey. I can’t speak for his nibs though, it wasn’t a favourite part of his day!

If you can spare the time, book your bed ahead of time and relax into the day. Take a swim from the tiny beach, or, if that’s not your thing, settle in at one of the little bars or cafés along the waterfront and enjoy garlic prawns sizzling from the pan.

Make the most of the following shorter stages. I promise you, the coastline to Vigo will surprise you and you’ll want to take it all in; every last glorious metre.

sunset over the harbour and the sea in A Guarda

Are You Walking The Portuguese Coastal Camino?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I know I’ll walk again. If you’re walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve created detailed daily walking guides packed with route tips, accommodation recommendations, and insights to help you along the way.

Here are some posts that may inspire and help you to plan your journey:

If you’re planning your Camino or are already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences! Join my Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, find inspiration and ideas for the road ahead.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.

Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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