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Povoa de Varzim to Esposende : Step By Step Guide To Stage 3 Of The Camino Portuguese Coastal
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Today’s stage takes us inland, but I still recommend starting your walk beside the sea. From the beaches of Povoa de Varzim, the route meanders into market garden country, where you see rows and rows of fresh produce growing in the local sandy soil.
Stage 3, from Povoa de Varzim to Esposende, offers no real challenges although, as with many stages of the Coastal Camino, you’ll find route variations. The traditional Coastal route heads inland, but the Litoral route hugs the sea on more boardwalks, and later there’s an option to blaze your own path along the beach when the arrows take you inland.
For the most part though, today is more unspoiled coastline, little coastal communities, and even a few windmills. Whichever route you choose, all roads lead to Fão, where you’ll cross the bridge into Esposende, where I usually find my bed for the night.
I’ve walked each of today’s route options and I’ll share which arrows I prefer to follow, along with tips on what to expect along the way.

Route Overview : Povoa de Varzim to Esposende Stage (22.1 km)
The Portuguese Coastal Camino is an odd trail; often the cause of confusion. Traditionally, the coastal arrows would lead you away from the beaches, but these days, most walkers opt for the Senda Litoral, sticking to the boardwalks along the sand. And why not? It’s glorious.
Some guides suggest ending this stage in Marinhas. If you stopped short yesterday in Vila do Conde, that’s a good choice. However, if you’re starting your day in Povoa de Varzim then Esposende makes for a more natural stage end.
This stage has virtually no elevation but the trail can feel exposed in places; I often find myself hopping between patches of shade. While there are services along the way, they are spaced out, so be sure to carry plenty of water and any essentials; our next big town is Esposende.


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Towns and Villages between Povoa de Varzim to Esposende
There are opportunities to pause today, but there is a little bit of a drought in the middle of the day, before Fão, where services are sparse. Plan ahead, carry enough water.
Povoa de Varzim
There are few arrows our of Povoa de Varzim, but you don’t really need them. Simply head down to the beach and start walking. Follow the pavements or boardwalks, and you can’t go wrong. As you leave the city, you’ll start to see more Camino arrows.
I love the walk out of Povoa. If your accommodation doesn’t offer breakfast, stop at one of the many cafés along the route. As you walk you’ll rub shoulders with local joggers, dog walkers, and early risers, all enjoying the seaside promenade.
While you can stick to the pavement, I often take every opportunity to get closer to the beach. There are often little paths or boardwalks that run alongside but away from the road; just keep the sea to your left, and you won’t get lost.
You may notice different markers too; blue and yellow, and brown and yellow. The brown markers often indicate the Senda Litoral, but don’t worry; they all meet within a short distance. I often choose to stick close to the seaside and enjoy the views.
A few kilometres on, you leave the city behind, you’ll find yourself in the quieter seaside community of A Ver O Mar.

A Ver O Mar (3.9 km)
The name A Ver o Mar translates to To See the Sea or Seeing the Sea ; rather apt for village beside the water.
There is accommodation here if you’re looking to break your stage. Casa Fragosa is one of the best options, boasting excellent reviews across all platforms and you can choose between family rooms or dormitory beds.
If the beach bar is open here, it’s worth stopping for a drink, although opening hours vary depending on the season. As you leave the village you’ll walk on quiet residential roads and paths beside the sand, leading you to Santo André.
Santo André (2 km)
The Senda Litoral skirts past Santo André without really entering the town. You can leave the beach here, pass the Santo André Chapel and follow inland a short distance to the town, or stick to the coast; which is my preference as the scenery remains glorious!
If you’re in need of refreshments, there are options in the town, and it’s easy to make your way back to the beach afterward. But there are also services in less that 2 kilometres.
The Santo André Chapel, which dates back to the 16th century, is steeped in legend. Local stories tell of St. Andrew’s miraculous footprint on a nearby rock, known as Penedo do Santo (Saint’s Rock). The footprint is believed to bring blessings to fishermen, and to protect them from drowning in dangerous seas.
As you continue, the route alternates between pavements and boardwalks and you’ll notice mounds of seaweed covered to protect them from the elements. This is sargassum seaweed, used as fertiliser for the sandy soil.

Agucadoura (1.9 km)
As you approach Agucadoura, you’ll have a choice of two bars. The first is a more traditional local bar but was the only one open in November! The second bar, just a few steps further, is more popular with pilgrims.
Paimo Beach Bar offers indoor and outdoor seating, snacks, and a very good cup of coffee. They also have a sello (stamp) for your credencial, and you’ll likely recognise a few faces after a couple of days walking.
The name Aguçadoura comes from Petra Aguzadoira, meaning sharp stone or stone to sharpen farming tools, reflecting its agricultural heritage. The earliest mention of Petra Aguzadoira dates back to 1258, though the area’s shifting sand dunes made it challenging to settle fully.
Despite its poor, sandy soil, Aguçadoura became a horticultural hub. Farmers enriched the land by collecting sargassum seaweed from the sea, a practice continued today.
This small village also made history in September 2008 as the site of the world’s first commercial wave farm. Located 5 km offshore, the farm used Pelamis Wave Energy Converters to transform ocean wave motion into electricity; then a groundbreaking achievement in renewable energy.
There is also a pilgrim albergue here if you’d like to spend the night; Albergue de Peregrinos de Aguçadoura. It’s a traditional modern pilgrim albergue with bunks, a kitchen and laundry facilities.
Top Tip: Make sure you’re stocked up with water and essentials before leaving Agucadoura; it will be 7 km before you find basic services and even longer maybe before a proper lunch.

The Windmills and Boardwalks to Apulia
From Aguçadoura, you’ll rejoin the boardwalks. In some spots, the shifting sands have taken over again, making some parts slower to navigate, but the route is clear; just be prepared to shake out sand from your shoes!
The boardwalks lead past the Moinho de Aguçadoura, iconic windmills that have become part of the Apúlia landscape. Built in the 19th century, they harnessed strong maritime winds to mill cereals like corn. Whilst they no longer grind grain, many have been restored as private homes, preserving the historic view and helping to preserve the dunes.
After the windmills, the trail snakes across a grassy car park area before continuing on boardwalks between the dunes and agricultural fields.
Route variations abound here and whilst we’ve explored the trails that lead to the beach, I recommend sticking with the arrows. Take the more inland option into Apúlia, offering a different view and some shady relief. It’s pretty well marked when needed, but you tend to keep moving forward for the most part and eventually takes you from boardwalk to cobbled roads leading into Apúlia.

Apúlia (7 km)
Apúlia is a good-sized village but with relatively few services along the Camino route. But you do walk by a the large modern church, where you can collect a sello and use the restrooms behind it.
The town’s history dates back to ancient times, with archaeological findings pointing to Roman influence. However, it was the collection of gulfweed, a practice dating to at least the 13th century, that shaped its economy.
Gulfweed gatherers dried the seaweed in the sun to use as fertilizer for their poor sandy soil. The practice was so popular that the medieval church banned it’s collection on Sundays and holy days.
Shifting sands have played a role in Apúlia’s history and between the 12th and 13th centuries, the dunes engulfed the parish’s original church, only a cross with an oil lamp now mark the site (sadly not on our Camino path).
The modern parish church, is the third church built on this site. Completed in 1945 and renovated in 2000, it stands on the same site as its 17th-century predecessor and is usually open for pilgrims.
Top Tip : From here the Camino skirts the edge of the town so if you’re planning on staying overnight, head down to the beach. And make sure you have water; it’s 4 km to Fão.

Fão (4.2 km)
Leaving Apúlia, the Camino takes you along shadier, quiet trails; a welcome relief on sunny days. After a few kilometres, the path breaks into cobbled streets leading to the outskirts of Fão.
Follow the arrows through residential streets and past Fão Cemetery before reaching the busy N13 road. Stay on the pavement and only cross where the arrows direct you using the pedestrian crossing.
You’ll pass the beautiful Igreja do Senhor Bom Jesus de Fão and it’s it’s open it’s worth a visit as the interior is beautiful.
The church has a fascinating history rooted in local legend. It’s said that a crucifix missing one hand was found near the Cávado River by a woman collecting firewood. When she attempted to burn it, it miraculously remained unscathed. This event inspired devotion and eventually led to the construction of the church. In 1863, King Luís I declared himself its patron, and by 1871, it had been designated as a Royal Chapel, adorned with the royal coat of arms.
If you happen to be walking on the Monday after Easter (Pascoela), you’ll encounter the very popular festival honouring the Lord of Fão, complete with processions and religious ceremonies.
Leaving the church, you’ll find Chalé Tapas Bar on the opposite side of the street. I love this restaurant; it serves great food and is very good value but the portions are hearty! If you’re looking for a lunch stop, this is the place to be; grab a table if you can.
Fão offers a range of accommodation if you’re looking to break the stage.

Esposende (3.1 km)
Follow the arrows through Fão, and you’ll arrive at the mouth of Cávado River, where the river meets the estuary. Crossing today involves walking over the Ponte Metálica de Fão, but in medieval times, pilgrims, kings, and queens alike relied on a barge; the only way to cross back then.
The iron bridge, constructed between 1890 and 1892, and classified as a Property of Public Interest since 1986, spans 267 metres and it’s narrow footpath is separated from the traffic, offering a safer pedestrian crossing.
The arrows guide you to steps leading up to the bridge from the riverside. Once there, I recommend crossing to the opposite side of the road for a better view but be cautious of the traffic, as this is a busy main road.
The views from the bridge are impressive but I also understand that for some, the plan is get across as quickly as possible, but if heights aren’t a worry, then pause and enjoy the scenery or do as Gerry does and search for fish!
Once on the far side, the arrows will lead you into the historic heart of Esposende.

Exploring Esposende : A Town of Two Halves
I really like Esposende and you should allow some time for a visit. But it can feel like a town split in two, with the old town at its heart and the modern beachside almost 2 kilometres away.
The Camino will guide you through both areas, and it’s worth considering where to spend the night. Both have their merits, but they’re far enough apart (well over a kilometre) that you’ll want to plan ahead.
For most pilgrims, the old town is where they’ll stay. It’s directly on the Camino and offers lots of bars, cafes, accommodation and pilgrim services. However, if you’re looking for a special stay, there’s a particularly fabulous hotel further along. But be sure to explore the old town first because you really won’t want to walk back later!
The Old Town
This is a great little town and I always feel it’s a shame when pilgrims stay by the river and keep walking without visiting the old town.
With narrow streets and pretty shops, it’s worthy of a visit, as is the Igreja Matriz de Esposende, the town’s beautiful neoclassical church, and the Praça da República, a lively little central square with plenty of cafes and services.
The tourist information office sits between the old town and the water; you can collect maps and infomtion and a sello if it’s open. And nearby, beside the water you’ll find the Esposende Maritime Museum and even a rather glorious municipal swimming pool!
Most pilgrims; myself included choose to stay in the old town, but if you’re looking for something special, consider walking on to the Hotel Suave Mar. You’ll need to leave the old town and follow the arrows past the Observatório de Avifauna da Foz do Rio Cávado (bird observatory).

Where to Stay in Esposende
This lovely little seaside town offers plenty of options for a comfortable night’s rest. I’ve stayed here many times and would happily return for a longer stay. Here are some of my favourite places to stay :

Potential Challenges Between Povoa de Varzim and Esposende
Another stage with little elevation and not much to challenge. However, with a few route variations and the coastal setting can present a few potential challenges, so here are my tips for things to keep in mind:
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Recommended Apps, Books And Websites for the Coastal Camino
If you’re walking any stage of the Camino Portuguese Coastal, these apps, guidebooks, and websites are invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:
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Final Thoughts: Camino Portuguese From Povoa de Varzim to Esposende
I really enjoy today’s walk. Leaving Povoa in the morning and sharing the path with city life gives way to more unspoiled coastline and boardwalks through the dunes. I love the variation today; the market gardens, the residential streets and the shady forests. And it’s for this this reason that I prefer to stick with the arrows and not deviate.
The churches, the history, and the little cafes and restaurants all add to the day and we end in one of my favourite little stage ends in Esposende.
I once heard someone say the coastal walk is boring; pah! Today proves that wrong. It’s a stunning, coastal walk that’s a joy to experience and for me at least, a day to be savoured. Book your bed before you leave Povoa and let the day unfold. Explore the churches, enjoy a cheeky little glass of Vinho Verde and take a long lunch in Fao.
The journey from Povoa de Varzim to Esposende offers a little something for everyone. It doesn’t wow with mountains or historical icons but it does offer wonderful scenery and a glimpse at rural life. And if you’re looking for somewhere special to stay, treat yourself to a night at Hotel Suave Mar; and tell me what you think if their Sangria!
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Are You Walking The Portuguese Coastal Camino?
I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I know I’ll walk again. If you’re walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve created detailed daily walking guides packed with route tips, accommodation recommendations, and insights to help you along the way.
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Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!