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Povoa de Varzim to Esposende : Step By Step Guide To Stage 3 Of The Camino Portuguese Coastal

Created by Colleen | Updated : 14 January 2025 | ,

Today’s stage takes us inland, but I still recommend starting your walk beside the sea. From the beaches of Povoa de Varzim, the route meanders into market garden country, where you see rows and rows of fresh produce growing in the local sandy soil.  

Stage 3, from Povoa de Varzim to Esposende, offers no real challenges although, as with many stages of the Coastal Camino, you’ll find route variations.  The traditional Coastal route heads inland, but the Litoral route hugs the sea on more boardwalks, and later there’s an option to blaze  your own path along the beach when the arrows take you inland.

For the most part though, today is more unspoiled coastline, little coastal communities, and even a few windmills. Whichever route you choose, all roads lead to Fão, where you’ll cross the bridge into Esposende, where I usually find my bed for the night.

I’ve walked each of today’s route options and I’ll share which arrows I prefer to follow, along with tips on what to expect along the way.

Then We Walking Club at the enormous yellow arrow marker outside Esposende

Route Overview : Povoa de Varzim to Esposende Stage (22.1 km)

The Portuguese Coastal Camino is an odd trail; often the cause of confusion. Traditionally, the coastal arrows would lead you away from the beaches, but these days, most walkers opt for the Senda Litoral, sticking to the boardwalks along the sand. And why not? It’s glorious.

Some guides suggest ending this stage in Marinhas. If you stopped short yesterday in Vila do Conde, that’s a good choice. However, if you’re starting your day in Povoa de Varzim then Esposende makes for a more natural stage end.

This stage has virtually no elevation but the trail can feel exposed in places; I often find myself hopping between patches of shade. While there are services along the way, they are spaced out, so be sure to carry plenty of water and any essentials; our next big town is Esposende.

  • Labruge and Póvoa de Varzim Distance : 22.1 km
  • Labruge and Póvoa de Varzim Elevation gain : 59 m | Elevation loss : 58 m
map for the Povoa de Varzim to Esposende stage on the Camino Portuguese Coastal route
Elevation profile for Povoa de Varzim to Esposende on the Camino Portuguese Coastal route

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Towns and Villages between Povoa de Varzim to Esposende

There are opportunities to pause today, but there is a little bit of a drought in the middle of the day, before Fão, where services are sparse.  Plan ahead, carry enough water.

Povoa de Varzim

There are few arrows our of Povoa de Varzim, but you don’t really need them. Simply head down to the beach and start walking. Follow the pavements or boardwalks, and you can’t go wrong. As you leave the city, you’ll start to see more Camino arrows.

I love the walk out of Povoa. If your accommodation doesn’t offer breakfast, stop at one of the many cafés along the route. As you walk you’ll rub shoulders with local joggers, dog walkers, and early risers, all enjoying the seaside promenade.

While you can stick to the pavement, I often take every opportunity to get closer to the beach. There are often little paths or boardwalks that run alongside but away from the road; just keep the sea to your left, and you won’t get lost.

You may notice different markers too; blue and yellow, and brown and yellow. The brown markers often indicate the Senda Litoral, but don’t worry; they all meet within a short distance.   I often choose to stick close to the seaside and enjoy the views.

A few kilometres on, you leave the city behind, you’ll find yourself in the quieter seaside community of A Ver O Mar.

Gerry leaving Povoa in the morning along the trail beside the beach

A Ver O Mar (3.9 km)

The name A Ver o Mar  translates to To See the Sea or Seeing the Sea ; rather apt for village beside the water.

There is accommodation here if you’re looking to break your stage. Casa Fragosa is one of the best options, boasting excellent reviews across all platforms and you can choose between family rooms or dormitory beds.

If the beach bar is open here, it’s worth stopping for a drink, although opening hours vary depending on the season. As you leave the village you’ll walk on quiet residential roads and paths beside the sand, leading you to Santo André.

  • Casa Fragosa Highlights: Very comfortable dormitory beds with privacy screens, sheets, and pillows. Spotlessly clean rooms with attentive and welcoming owners and options for family rooms or shared dormitories

Santo André (2 km)

The Senda Litoral skirts past Santo André without really entering the town. You can leave the beach here, pass the Santo André Chapel and follow inland a short distance to the town, or stick to the coast; which is my preference as the scenery remains glorious!

If you’re in need of refreshments, there are options in the town, and it’s easy to make your way back to the beach afterward. But there are also services in less that 2 kilometres.

The Santo André Chapel, which dates back to the 16th century, is steeped in legend. Local stories tell of St. Andrew’s miraculous footprint on a nearby rock, known as Penedo do Santo (Saint’s Rock). The footprint is believed to bring blessings to fishermen, and to protect them from drowning in dangerous seas.

As you continue, the route alternates between pavements and boardwalks and you’ll notice mounds of seaweed covered to protect them from the elements.  This is sargassum seaweed, used as fertiliser for the sandy soil.

stunning wild flowers on the beach at A Ver O Mar

Agucadoura (1.9 km)

As you approach Agucadoura, you’ll have a choice of two bars. The first is a more traditional local bar but was the only one open in November!  The second bar, just a few steps further, is more popular with pilgrims.

Paimo Beach Bar offers indoor and outdoor seating, snacks, and a very good cup of coffee. They also have a sello (stamp) for your credencial, and you’ll likely recognise a few faces after a couple of days walking.

The name Aguçadoura comes from Petra Aguzadoira, meaning sharp stone or stone to sharpen farming tools, reflecting its agricultural heritage. The earliest mention of Petra Aguzadoira dates back to 1258, though the area’s shifting sand dunes made it challenging to settle fully.

Despite its poor, sandy soil, Aguçadoura became a horticultural hub. Farmers enriched the land by collecting sargassum seaweed from the sea, a practice continued today. 

This small village also made history in September 2008 as the site of the world’s first commercial wave farm. Located 5 km offshore, the farm used Pelamis Wave Energy Converters to transform ocean wave motion into electricity; then a groundbreaking achievement in renewable energy.

There is also a pilgrim albergue here if you’d like to spend the night; Albergue de Peregrinos de Aguçadoura.  It’s a traditional modern pilgrim albergue with bunks, a kitchen and laundry facilities.

Top Tip: Make sure you’re stocked up with water and essentials before leaving Agucadoura; it will be 7 km before you find basic services and even longer maybe before a proper lunch.

windmills on the Camino boardwalks near Povoa

The Windmills and Boardwalks to Apulia

From Aguçadoura, you’ll rejoin the boardwalks. In some spots, the shifting sands have taken over again, making some parts slower to navigate, but the route is clear; just be prepared to shake out sand from your shoes!

The boardwalks lead past the Moinho de Aguçadoura, iconic windmills that have become part of the Apúlia landscape. Built in the 19th century, they harnessed strong maritime winds to mill cereals like corn. Whilst they no longer grind grain, many have been restored as private homes, preserving the historic view and helping to preserve the dunes.

After the windmills, the trail snakes across a grassy car park area before continuing on boardwalks between the dunes and agricultural fields.

Route variations abound here and whilst we’ve explored the trails that lead to the beach, I recommend sticking with the arrows. Take the more inland option into Apúlia, offering a different view and some shady relief.  It’s pretty well marked when needed, but you tend to keep moving forward for the most part and eventually takes you from boardwalk to cobbled roads leading into Apúlia.

boardwalks through a rural landscape, away from the beach

Apúlia (7 km)

Apúlia is a good-sized village but with relatively few services along the Camino route. But you do walk by a the large modern church, where you can collect a sello and use the restrooms behind it.

The town’s history dates back to ancient times, with archaeological findings pointing to Roman influence. However, it was the collection of gulfweed, a practice dating to at least the 13th century, that shaped its economy.

Gulfweed gatherers dried the seaweed in the sun to use as fertilizer for their poor sandy soil. The practice was so popular that the medieval church banned it’s collection on Sundays and holy days.

Shifting sands have played a role in Apúlia’s history and between the 12th and 13th centuries, the dunes engulfed the parish’s original church, only a cross with an oil lamp now mark the site (sadly not on our Camino path).

The modern parish church, is the third church built on this site.  Completed in 1945 and renovated in 2000, it stands on the same site as its 17th-century predecessor and is usually open for pilgrims.

Top Tip : From here the Camino skirts the edge of the town so if you’re planning on staying overnight, head down to the beach.  And make sure you have water; it’s 4 km to Fão.

interior of Apulia modern parish church

Fão (4.2 km)

Leaving Apúlia, the Camino takes you along shadier, quiet trails; a welcome relief on sunny days. After a few kilometres, the path breaks into cobbled streets leading to the outskirts of Fão.

Follow the arrows through residential streets and past Fão Cemetery before reaching the busy N13 road. Stay on the pavement and only cross where the arrows direct you using the pedestrian crossing.

You’ll pass the beautiful Igreja do Senhor Bom Jesus de Fão and it’s it’s open it’s worth a visit as  the interior is beautiful.  

The church has a fascinating history rooted in local legend. It’s said that a crucifix missing one hand was found near the Cávado River by a woman collecting firewood. When she attempted to burn it, it  miraculously remained unscathed. This event inspired devotion and eventually led to the construction of the church. In 1863, King Luís I declared himself its patron, and by 1871, it had been designated as a Royal Chapel, adorned with the royal coat of arms.

If you happen to be walking on the Monday after Easter (Pascoela), you’ll encounter the very popular  festival honouring the Lord of Fão, complete with processions and religious ceremonies.

Leaving the church, you’ll find Chalé Tapas Bar on the opposite side of the street. I love this restaurant; it serves great food and is very good value but the portions are hearty!  If you’re looking for a lunch stop, this is the place to be; grab a table if you can.

Fão offers a range of accommodation if you’re looking to break the stage.

  • The Spot Hostel makes an excellent choice with bunks, family rooms, and private ensuite bedrooms, plus a shared lounge, kitchen, and a beautiful garden. The host is incredibly welcoming, and the breakfast is excellent. Oh, and did I mention it has a pool?
shady forest trail on the camino portuguese before Fao

Esposende  (3.1 km)

Follow the arrows through Fão, and you’ll arrive at the mouth of Cávado River, where the river meets the estuary. Crossing today involves walking over the Ponte Metálica de Fão, but in medieval times, pilgrims, kings, and queens alike relied on a barge; the only way to cross back then.

The iron bridge, constructed between 1890 and 1892, and classified as a Property of Public Interest since 1986, spans 267 metres and it’s narrow footpath is separated from the traffic, offering a safer pedestrian crossing.

The arrows guide you to steps leading up to the bridge from the riverside. Once there, I recommend crossing to the opposite side of the road for a better view but be cautious of the traffic, as this is a busy main road.

The views from the bridge are impressive but I also understand that for some, the plan is get across as quickly as possible, but if heights aren’t a worry, then pause and enjoy the scenery or do as Gerry does and search for fish!

Once on the far side, the arrows will lead you into the historic heart of Esposende.

crossing the bridge into Esposende

Exploring Esposende : A Town of Two Halves

I really like Esposende and you should allow some time for a visit.  But it can feel like a town split in two, with the old town at its heart and the modern beachside almost 2 kilometres away.

The Camino will guide you through both areas, and it’s worth considering where to spend the night. Both have their merits, but they’re far enough apart (well over a kilometre) that you’ll want to plan ahead.

For most pilgrims, the old town is where they’ll stay. It’s directly on the Camino and offers lots of bars, cafes, accommodation and pilgrim services. However, if you’re looking for a special stay, there’s a particularly fabulous hotel further along. But be sure to explore the old town first because you really won’t want to walk back later!

The Old Town

This is a great little town and I always feel it’s a shame when pilgrims stay by the river and keep walking without visiting the old town.

With narrow streets and pretty shops, it’s worthy of a visit, as is the Igreja Matriz de Esposende, the town’s beautiful neoclassical church, and the Praça da República, a lively little central square with plenty of cafes and services.

The tourist information office sits between the old town and the water; you can collect maps and infomtion and a sello if it’s open.  And nearby, beside the water you’ll find the Esposende Maritime Museum and even a rather glorious municipal swimming pool!

Most pilgrims; myself included choose to stay in the old town, but if you’re looking for something special, consider walking on to the Hotel Suave Mar.  You’ll need to leave the old town and follow the arrows past the Observatório de Avifauna da Foz do Rio Cávado (bird observatory). 

leaving esposende in the early morning, passing one of the sculpture in front of the church

Where to Stay in Esposende

This lovely little seaside town offers plenty of options for a comfortable night’s rest. I’ve stayed here many times and would happily return for a longer stay. Here are some of my favourite places to stay :

  • Hostel Eleven :A lovely albergue, very budget-friendly, in a great location; you walk past it as you make you way into the old town. I’ve stayed here a few times, in bunk beds and a private room. There’s a well-equipped kitchen where you can prepare meals and breakfast.

    It’s great and I’d stay again but it’s worth noting it’s not exclusively for pilgrims; we were once woken by young partygoers who arrived back at midnight, which made for a rude awakening!
  • InnEsposende Sports Hostel : I stayed here on my last visit and was really surprised by how comfortable and spacious the private rooms were.  There’s no lift, so be prepared to climb stairs with your luggage if you book a private room. The bunk beds on the ground floor are a good option those on a smaller budget.

    The kitchen and lounge are great, well-maintained and perfect if you wish to cook.  I’ve stayed here with my walking club and would definitely stay again; it’s a good choice for both solo pilgrims and small groups.
  • Hotel Suave Mar : Located on the edge of town as you leave Esposende, this is a favourite and perfect if you’re seeking a little extra comfort. I’ve stayed here alone and with groups, and it’s always wonderful; the pool a bonus too!

    But if you plan to stay here, I recommend visiting the old town first. Take some time to explore, enjoy a drink, and soak up the charm before checking in because you will not want to walk back later! And don’t miss the Sangria here; it’s also pretty fabulous!
the river between Fao and Esposende with a church on the distant shore

Potential Challenges Between Povoa de Varzim and Esposende

Another stage with little elevation and not much to challenge.  However, with a few route variations and the coastal setting can present a few potential challenges, so here are my tips for things to keep in mind:

  • Navigating the Arrows : I find today’s section relatively easy to navigate, but accept I’ve walked it before.  But with improved markings in recent years it is better.  That being said, route variations can create confusion and if you’re uncertain, ask a pilgrim or use my trusty friend Wise Pilgrim; the real time maps are a great help.
  • Weather: I’m probably tempting fate now but I’ve never walked this stage in the rain.  I have though walked in chilly winds and strong sun so be prepared.  There is very little by way of shade on the boardwalks and the sun, even in April can be strong! Make sure you have sunscreen a sun hat and plenty of water.  And pack a raincoat or layers to keep you warm if the wind picks up. And you might need to figure how to secure your hat to prevent it blowing away!
  • Limited service : This sounds a bit misleading as thereare plenty of opportunities to pause today but they can be spaced out; and less if you walk outside of the busy tourist seasons. Take a break when you find them, especially before the longer stretches and always be sure to have plenty of water and snack to keep you going.  Gerry always carries what he’s named the emergency apple and he’ll eat when he arrives in Santiago de Compostela if it’s not been needed!
  • Sand Dunes : As with earlier stages, sand spilling onto the boardwalks can slow you down. Shake the sand out of your shoes when needed, and consider carrying a spare pair of socks to change into. I love wearing Chaco sandals on the coastal camino; they’re perfect for my wide feet and handle the sand too.
  • Boardwalk Wear and Tear : Some sections of the boardwalks are weathered and can me uneven or damaged. Watch your step, and keep an eye on your walking poles; those tips can get caught between the boards so carry a spare set just in case!
  • Bugs and Insects : As you walk by wetlands, dunes or the piles of seaweed, you might encounter a few biting insects, especially in warmer months. I always carrying a small travel-sized insect repellent as I’m the one they seem to like the most! 

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

seaweed bales along the coast ready to be used as fertiliser

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites for the Coastal Camino

If you’re walking any stage of the Camino Portuguese Coastal, these apps, guidebooks, and websites are invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

  • AlertCops: A free app that connects you directly with the Spanish police. While not particularly useful in Portugal, it’s excellent for peace of mind once you cross the border. Remember, the emergency international operator in Portugal (and across Europe) is 112.
  • What3Words: A lifesaver in emergencies, this app pinpoints your exact location to a 3×3 metre square anywhere in the world. It’s free to download and invaluable if needed.
  • Wise Pilgrim: Though not free, this app is well worth a few euros. It’s packed with helpful information about the Portuguese Camino and it’s been on my phone for many years.
  • Google Translate: English is widely spoken in Portugal, but this app is handy for menus, signs, or conversations. You can type, take a photo (great for menus), or speak into it for instant translations. Download the Portuguese and Spanish languages in advance for offline use.
  • Casa Ivar: A trusted source for purchasing credentials, pilgrim shells, or luggage forwarding to Santiago. Ivar also runs the international pilgrim forum and has lived in Santiago for many years.
  • John Brierley Guides: The go-to guidebook for Camino pilgrims. Compact, regularly updated, and filled with useful details. The Portuguese guide covers the route from Lisbon, including both the Coastal and Central routes.
  • WhatsApp: Many albergues and pilgrim services prefer communication via WhatsApp. Be sure to download it before leaving home, as some phones may block new app installs overseas.
  • Airalo: Not an app but an eSIM provider that’s easy to set up before departure. It allows you to connect to mobile data as soon as you arrive. Check if your phone supports eSIMs, as it’s a hassle-free alternative to finding a physical SIM card.
  • Revolut and Wise Bank Cards: Not apps but travel essentials. Both Revolut and Wise cards make paying for services and withdrawing foreign currency simple and offer favourable exchange rates. Setting them up can take time, especially for American users, but they’re highly reliable and accepted in both Portugal and Spain.  We’ve used both these currency cards globally and would not travel without them.

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

river meeting the sea through sand banks

Final Thoughts: Camino Portuguese From Povoa de Varzim to Esposende

I really enjoy today’s walk. Leaving Povoa in the morning and sharing the path with city life gives way to more unspoiled coastline and boardwalks through the dunes. I love the variation today; the market gardens, the residential streets and the shady forests. And it’s for this this reason that I prefer to stick with the arrows and not deviate.

The churches, the history, and the little cafes and restaurants all add to the day and we end in one of my favourite little stage ends in Esposende.

I once heard someone say the coastal walk is boring; pah! Today proves that wrong. It’s a stunning, coastal walk that’s a joy to experience and for me at least, a day to be savoured. Book your bed before you leave Povoa and let the day unfold. Explore the churches, enjoy a cheeky little glass of Vinho Verde and take a long lunch in Fao.

The journey from Povoa de Varzim to Esposende offers a little something for everyone. It doesn’t wow with mountains or historical icons but it does offer wonderful scenery and a glimpse at rural life. And if you’re looking for somewhere special to stay, treat yourself to a night at Hotel Suave Mar; and tell me what you think if their Sangria!

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

local sign showing famous destinations such as paris on a hand made sign

Are You Walking The Portuguese Coastal Camino?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I know I’ll walk again. If you’re walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve created detailed daily walking guides packed with route tips, accommodation recommendations, and insights to help you along the way.

Here are some posts that may inspire and help you to plan your journey:

If you’re planning your Camino or are already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences! Join my Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, find inspiration and ideas for the road ahead.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.

Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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