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Labruge to Povoa de Varzim: Step By Step Guide to Stage 2 of the Camino Portuguese Coastal

Created by Colleen | Updated : 13 January 2025 | ,

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Stage 1: Porto to Matosinhos and Labruge
Stage 3 : Póvoa de Varzim – Esposende

Unlike the various route options of yesterday from Porto, today’s stage is refreshingly straightforward. You’ll walk along boardwalks that hug the beaches of Northern Portugal and pass little fishing villages that all seem to roll together.

But don’t be fooled into thinking this is just a pleasant coastal walk; Labruge to Póvoa de Varzim is a truly glorious stage rich in history if you take the time to look. You’ll find ancient Neolithic settlements, traces of Roman life and a few wonderful churches worth a visit.

The Portuguese Coastal Camino is far more than a seaside trail.  Today’s stage is fabulous, with lots to explore; let me guide you through my favourite places, a fabulous lunch stop as well as all that history.

colourful houses and boats and fishing gear at Vila Cha on the Camino Portuguese

Route Overview: Labruge to Povoa de Varzim Stage (14.7 km)

While Stage Two of the Coastal Camino officially begins in Labruge, many pilgrims will be starting their day from Matosinhos, Perafita, or even earlier along the route from Porto.

Wherever you begin, today promises another glorious walk with minimal challenges. The path continues along a mix of pavements and boardwalks, with occasional stretches of sand where the dunes spill over the trail. There are a few steps to climb today too, as you cross a small headland, but overall, the stage remains gentle.

From Árvore and Azurara, you’ll leave the beach and head inland to Vila do Conde, where you’ll cross the River Ave into town. From here you’ll follow the Camino arrows through the suburbs to Póvoa de Varzim.

There maybe a little arrow confusion in Vila do Conde, as the traditional Coastal route from Porto joins here, and pilgrims crossing over to the Central Route at Rates also leave from here.  And there is an option to head back to the sea if the idea of walking through the Povoa suburbs doesn’t appeal.

However, arrows and variants aside, today is well-marked and straightforward and offers minimal elevation gain; just more sandy beaches, traditional fishing villages, and a few cultural gems along the way.

  • Labruge and Póvoa de Varzim Distance : 14.7 km
  • Labruge and Póvoa de Varzim Elevation gain : 36 m | Elevation loss : 59 m
route map for Labruge to Povoa de Varzim on the Portguese Coastal Camino
elevation profile for Labruge to Povoa de Varzim on the Portguese Coastal Camino

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Towns and Villages Between Labruge and Póvoa de Varzim

Today’s walk takes you through a string of little seaside villages and with plenty of opportunities to pause; although the more outside of the main pilgrim season, your choices will be fewer.

Vila do Conde and Póvoa de Varzim are larger towns with all services, perfect if you need to stock up on essentials. And there’s a fabulous local restaurant en route that offers an excellent menu del dia if you’re looking for lunch.

Labruge

If you’re starting your walk earlier and just walking through Labruge, you’ll find all the details for those earlier sections in my Stage 1: Porto to Matosinhos and Labruge Step By Step Guide for the Camino Portuguese Coastal.

If you spent the night in Labruge, head back to the beach, and the pirate statue outside Bar Nova Rumo. For those walking from elsewhere, you’ll meet this jolly landmark just as the pavement ends. From here, the path continues straight onto more boardwalks; these have a few steps.

As you walk, take a moment to read the information boards, this little headland has a lot of history!

  • San Paio Engravings: Rock carvings, discovered in the 1960s, include symbols or runes, which may have Iron Age or Nordic origins. You’ll need to look closely at the rocks to find them, but there’s a sign at the site to help your search. And we’ve found a number of them on previous visits.  
  • Geodetic Landmark: You also can’t help but notice the headland’s strange marker. It is part of Portugal’s national geodetic network. Beyond its technical importance for maps, it’s also a great spot and take in the views of the coastline you’ve walked.
  • Castro de São Paio: As you walk down the steps from the headland, you’ll find more information boards about the Iron Age settlement. A little further on, you can see the remains of the castro itself; worth a pause before you wander on!
  • Capela de São Paio: Completing this cluster of landmarks here, there is also the small chapel near the castro.

For those with time to spare, there is an Interpretive Centre nearby which provides additional insights into the area’s archaeological and geological significance. It’s a short detour from the trail but worth a visit if you’re curious to learn more and can spare the distraction.

gerry looking out at the headland at the sea after Labruge

Vila Chã (2.6 km)

At Vila Chã, the arrows guide you off the boardwalk and into the village with narrow cobble streets, lined with with colourful Portuguese azulejo-tiled houses. You’ll see the beach visible to your left and at the little junction at Casa Serena, take the a short detour back down to the sand.

It’s just for a few metres but you’ll pass little cottages where the fishermen are often working on mending their nets.  And the paths merge again just beyond, so you won’t lose your way.

Leaving Vila Chã, the route continues along pavements and shortly after you’ll spot Restaurant Rubens Dunas on your left. If it’s lunchtime, this is a great place to stop and each time we’ve visited it’s been very busy.  Their menu del dia is excellent value and the food is fresh and hearty!  It’s always full of locals which has to be a good sign!

pilgrims walking between colourful houses

Mindelo (1.9 km)

From the restaurant in Vila Cha, you’re led back on to boardwalks and more glorious beaches until you reach Mindelo.

Mindelo offers a change of scenery as you’ll walk between dunes and a protected nature reserve. The Mindelo Ornithological Reserve is a haven for birdwatchers, and you’ll see noticeboards along the route explaining the flora and fauna and the local ecosystem.

Established in 1957, it holds the distinction of being the first protected area in Portugal and was considered the first ornithological reserve in Europe.  Gerry’s a bit of a bird watcher so it takes us ages to walk along the section.

  • Bird Species: The reserve is home to approximately 153 bird species, primarily migratory.
  • Amphibian Species: It harbors 13 of the 17 amphibian species found in Portugal, making it a significant refuge for these creatures.
  • Reptile Species: The reserve also supports a variety of reptile species, contributing to its rich biodiversity.
  • Size : Whilst it’s small it’s still a great little space; the reserve covers 6 square kilometres.

Top Tip : Parts of the boardwalk have been swallowed up by dunes, making the going tough at times. The sand can be deep and slows you down so consider swapping to sandals if you have them. Once you leave the sandy section, stop and thoroughly clean your feet before putting your boots back on; sand between your toes can cause blisters.

The boardwalk eventually lifts you up over the wetlands and returns you to pavements as you approach Arvore. There’s a low wall here which makes the perfect spot to get the remaining sand out of your shoes.

glorious beaches and boardwalks in northern portugal

Arvore (2.4 km)

From Arvore, the Camino continues on cobbled pavements as you head inland toward Vila do Conde. The arrows take you away from the sea and look out for a right turn that’s easy to miss; many pilgrims accidentally overshoot and end up at the river mouth and have to double back.

Follow the arrows as the path winds through a quiet residential areas which almost rolls into Azurara.

pilgrims showing where you need to turn along the Camino Portuguese
Turn Right Here : It’s easy to miss this turning as you walk into Vila Do Conde

Azurara (1.1 km)

The trail continues through residential streets with arrows to guide you toward Vila do Conde. While the walk is straightforward, there are few services after leaving the beach, so ensure you have enough water to carry you through this section.

There is a restaurant as you enter Azurara; we once sat at their tables and asked for drinks, but were politely refused, insisting they only serve diners. Policies may have changed since, but it’s better to come prepared with your own supplies.

Just beyond the restaurant, you’ll find the tiny Capela de São Sebastião de Azurara. Likely dating back to the 14th or 15th century, this little stone chapel was mentioned in the Book of Visitations in 1567. On my last Camino, a friendly gentleman offered us a mini tour and a stamp for our credencial.

From here, it’s just a hop, skip, and a jump to the bridge over the River Ave, where Vila do Conde and cold drinks await!

lone house with a chair and a view of the coast on the Portuguese Camino

Vila do Conde (2.1 km)

Vila do Conde is both a municipality and a town; both with an impressive history. The area is home to some of the oldest settlements in northern Portugal, with human activity dating back to the Paleolithic period (circa 10,000 BC). Archaeological finds show continuous habitation through the Neolithic era too (approximately 5000 BC to 3000 BC).

The earliest documented reference to Vila do Conde, then called Villa de Comite, appears in a deed of sale dated March 26, 953 AD. However, it was during the Middle Ages that the town rose to prominence.

One of Vila do Conde’s most iconic landmarks is the Monastery of Santa Clara, founded in 1319. This massive white building is unmissable as you cross the river into town. Also unmissable is the 17th century aqueduct, built to supply water to the monastery.  Designed in 1626 to supply water to the Monastery and completed in 1714; it was said that it had 999 arches originally and covered an area of ​​around 7 km.

As you cross the bridge, you’ll see Praça da República on your left, with a small park with really colourful flower beds in spring and summer. Thankfully, the arrows lead you in this direction, passing a few welcome bars!  Grab a table in the shade as it will be a few more kilometres before you find your bed. From the park you’ll spot the Nau Quinhentista on the river, a replica of a 16th-century Portuguese tall ship.

Top Tip : If you plan to stay at the Santa Clara Albergue stop following the arrows at the bridge and keep walking, the albergue is a little straight ahead from the bridge.

glorious planting and bright flowers in the gardens at vila de conde

Which Arrows To Follow?

Vila do Conde offers three route options:

  • Stick to the Coastal Camino Arrows: Follow the arrows through the town centre, passing the Church of São João Baptista, and continue toward Póvoa de Varzim.
  • Walk Along the Coast: Leave the Camino arrows and track your own path along the river and back to the coast. Pass the Capela de Nossa Senhora da Guia and the Forte de São João Baptista de Vila do Conde, then rejoin a promenade by the sea, leading to the Marina de Póvoa de Varzim. This route adds just shy of 2 kilometres to your day.
  • Divert to the Central Route at Rates: Many pilgrims choose to switch here to the Central Route; thus avoiding the 20-kilometre urban hike out of Porto. For detailed instructions on this route, I recommend the Wise Pilgrim’s guide, which provides clear and accurate directions.

Where to Stay in Vila do Conde

If you’d like to break your stage here, Vila do Conde has several excellent accommodation options:

  • Santa Clara Pilgrim Hostel: A popular stop for pilgrims, though not large, so it’s best to call ahead to book your bed: Phone: +351 252 104 717
  • Naval Guest House & Bistro: A fabulous café and guesthouse right on the Camino as you enter town
Book Naval Guest House & Bistro
  • Pousada de Juventude: A great choice if you plan to follow the estuary to the coast. They offer both bunk beds and private rooms.
Book Pousada de Juventude
sign in the restaurant wishing everyone a Bom Dia

Leaving Vila do Conde on the Coastal Route

If you’re continuing along the Coastal Camino and following the arrows, the path will take you up into the town centre. After crossing the main road, you’ll pass the beautiful Igreja Matriz de Vila do Conde (Church of São João Baptista).

This church, built in the late 15th century, is usually open and worth a quick look inside. It was commissioned by King D. Manuel I of Portugal, who stopped in Vila do Conde during his pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in 1502.

Top Tip : In the town centre, between the pavements and the road, there are large metal balls that mark the boundary. They can be a bit of a hazard; especially if like me you’re distracted and taking photos of the aqueduct! Watch your step to avoid an unexpected tumble.

beautiful old church in Vila do Conde

Povoa de Varzim (3.8 km)

I’m never quite sure where Vila do Conde ends and Povoa begins. What I do know is that you’ll follow the arrows through a series of turns and bends in the road, dodging passing cars where there’s no pavement; and it feels longer than it should.

As with all cities, stay alert for the arrows as the route takes you through residential areas, past parks, schools, and even a cemetery. A few kilometres later, you’ll arrive in the old town of Povoa, where cobblestone streets and shops and cafes will distract you.

By this point, most of my groups are ready to head straight to their accommodation but there’s plenty to do if you’re looking for some sight-seeing.  

view from the Grand Hotel of Povoa of the beach

Exploring Povoa de Varzim

Póvoa de Varzim is one of the main tourist towns on Portugal’s northern coast. Known for its glorious beaches and as one of the few places in Portugal where gambling is authorized.

While it’s now a modern resort town, Povoa has an ancient history with archaeological findings suggesting the area has been inhabited since 200,000 BC.

One of the most significant historical sites is the fortified Bronze Age settlement of Cividade de Terroso, located 7 kilometres north of the city; sadly not on the Camino.

  • Muro de Azulejos : If you do nothing else then take a wander down to the beach to see the Muro de Azulejos along the breakwater. These amazing painted blue and white tiles tell the story of Póvoa’s history
  • The Old Quarter : As you enter Póvoa, you’ll walk through narrow, cobblestone streets lined with shops and cafés. It’s a lovely area to explore. I remember one cold November afternoon discovering a café serving perhaps the biggest cakes I’ve ever seen! 
  • Fortaleza da Póvoa de Varzim : Close to the breakwater and the beach, is another fort, the Fortaleza da Póvoa de Varzim, also known as the Fortress of Nossa Senhora da Conceição. Originally built in the 1400s, the fort was rebuilt in 1701 to protect the town from pirate attacks.
  • Igreja da Lapa : This 18th-century church, built by the local fishing community. It also houses a small, now-deactivated lighthouse, reflecting the deep maritime traditions of the town.

Povoa is a good size town, with all services and regular transport links to Porto.  If you’re staying overnight or looking for things to do, you can explore further by visiting the town’s website.

colleen in 2017 with coffee and cakes in Povoa

Where to Stay in Póvoa de Varzim

We love the seaside charm of Póvoa de Varzim, but it’s worth noting that the town is long and stretches out along the coast for some distance. I once booked a hotel at the other end of town, adding an extra 3 kilometres to our day; I can assure you that Gerry was less than thrilled!

To save you the same mistake, here are some of my favourite options, all conveniently located on the right side of town:

  • São José de Ribamar Pilgrim Hostel: I have stayed in the pilgrim albergue and it’s a good location for pilgrims. You can’t reserve in advance, but it’s worth calling ahead to check availability: Phone: +351 252 622 314
  • Siglas & Runas II: If you can reserve a room here, do it! This wonderful spot is very popular with pilgrims perfect if you’re looking for a private room.
Book Siglas & Runas II
  • Sardines Hostels: Póvoa has two Sardine Hostels (Sardines 4 and Sardines 6). Both are great budget options, offering private rooms and bunk beds.
Book Sardines Hostels
  • Grand Hotel da Póvoa: We love the Grand. This hotel is right on the beach and the Camino. I’ve stayed here a few of times and always been happy. The on-site Asian restaurant is fantastic, and the breakfast is excellent.  And the views at sunrise are pretty cool too!
Book Grand Hotel da Póvoa
blue and white tiles on the beach wall in Povoa

Potential Challenges Between Labruge and Póvoa de Varzim

While the first part of today’s trail is straightforward and scenic, there are a few potential challenges to keep in mind as you head toward Vila do Conde and Póvoa de Varzim:

  • Weather Exposure: The coastal path is open, which makes it particularly exposed to the elements. This stage often feels windier or sunnier than others, so be prepared with sunscreen, a sun hat, and plenty of water. Carry a waterproof jacket too, just in case the weather changes.
  • Limited Facilities in Smaller Villages: While there are plenty of beach cafés along the route, many may be closed outside the tourist season. Plan your stops carefully and carry enough water and snacks to see you through quieter stretches.
  • Navigation: The trail is generally well-marked, but it’s easy to miss arrows in busier areas like Vila do Conde and Póvoa de Varzim, especially when the route weaves through residential streets.
  • Cobbles: Portugal is famous for its cobblestone streets, but they can be tricky to navigate. I had a fall on the outskirts of Póvoa once (not my first, if you’ve read my blogs!). Cobbles can be hard on your feet and uneven, so pay attention; especially in towns where it’s easy to drop your guard.
  • Sand: The dunes and sandy boardwalks are easy underfoot but sand can get into your socks and boots, causing irritation and even blisters. Take a moment to stop at the wall in Árvore to clean your feet and consider putting on clean socks before continuing.
  • Distance: This stage is an easy day if you’re starting in Labruge, but it becomes a longer trek if you began in Matosinhos. Consider how far you’ll walk over the first two stages and plan your stops to allow time to explore without feeling overly tired.
  • Boardwalks: Sometimes the boardwalks are in a poor state although the authorities do a good job of maintaining them, inevitably some wear quickly. And if you’re using walking poles, they can get stuck in the gaps! Remember to take spare rubber tips with you as you may lose one or two en-route to Santiago de Compostela.

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

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old houses on a cobbled street on the Camino in Portugal

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites for the Coastal Camino

If you’re walking any stage of the Camino Portuguese Coastal, these apps, guidebooks, and websites are invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

  • AlertCops: A free app that connects you directly with the Spanish police. While not particularly useful in Portugal, it’s excellent for peace of mind once you cross the border. Remember, the emergency international operator in Portugal (and across Europe) is 112.
  • What3Words: A lifesaver in emergencies, this app pinpoints your exact location to a 3×3 metre square anywhere in the world. It’s free to download and invaluable if needed.
  • Wise Pilgrim: Though not free, this app is well worth a few euros. It’s packed with helpful information about the Portuguese Camino and it’s been on my phone for many years.
  • Google Translate: English is widely spoken in Portugal, but this app is handy for menus, signs, or conversations. You can type, take a photo (great for menus), or speak into it for instant translations. Download the Portuguese and Spanish languages in advance for offline use.
  • Casa Ivar: A trusted source for purchasing credentials, pilgrim shells, or luggage forwarding to Santiago. Ivar also runs the international pilgrim forum and has lived in Santiago for many years.
  • John Brierley Guides: The go-to guidebook for Camino pilgrims. Compact, regularly updated, and filled with useful details. The Portuguese guide covers the route from Lisbon, including both the Coastal and Central routes.
  • WhatsApp: Many albergues and pilgrim services prefer communication via WhatsApp. Be sure to download it before leaving home, as some phones may block new app installs overseas.
  • Airalo: Not an app but an eSIM provider that’s easy to set up before departure. It allows you to connect to mobile data as soon as you arrive. Check if your phone supports eSIMs, as it’s a hassle-free alternative to finding a physical SIM card.
  • Revolut and Wise Bank Cards: Not apps but travel essentials. Both Revolut and Wise cards make paying for services and withdrawing foreign currency simple and offer favourable exchange rates. Setting them up can take time, especially for American users, but they’re highly reliable and accepted in both Portugal and Spain.  We’ve used both these currency cards globally and would not travel without them.

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

Join My Camino Facebook Group
boardwalks being repaired between Labruge and Povoa

Final Thoughts: Camino Portuguese from Labruge to Póvoa de Varzim

Today is another wonderful day on the Camino; different from yesterday, yet somehow the same. The coast between Porto and the Spanish border is glorious. While the little towns and villages along the way might feel more functional than quaint, there’s no denying the coast is fabulous.

There’s history here too, so take your time and stop and explore. Read the information boards, go hunting the San Paio runes, enjoy fresh seafood, and be sure to visit the church in Vila do Conde.

These days are best taken slowly. Pause awhile, smell the roses, and let the beauty of this region wash over you. When I first walked I knew I would return. I also knew Gerry would love to walk this route and totally understand why the Portuguese Coastal Camino has become so popular.

There is so much more to explore, waiting for you along the way, but for now, enjoy Póvoa de Varzim. And don’t forget to see the Muro de Azulejos before you leave town!

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

Join My Camino Facebook Group
fishermen on the beach in Labruge

Are You Walking The Portuguese Coastal Camino?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I know I’ll walk again. If you’re walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve created detailed daily walking guides packed with route tips, accommodation recommendations, and insights to help you along the way.

Here are some posts that may inspire and help you to plan your journey:

If you’re planning your Camino or are already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences! Join my Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, find inspiration and ideas for the road ahead.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

MondialCare : Due to increasing limitations, mainly due to age, we have recently switched to MondialCare for our travel insurance. We have taken an annual policy at a very reasonable cost that includes medical and other travel cover. There are no trip length limits and the upper age for cover is 84. For Camino walkers and travel in Europe they have a low cost Schengen policy with no age limit.

TrueTraveller : We have used this policy and were very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Author : Colleen Sims

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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