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A Guarda to Oia: Step By Step Guide to Stage 7 of the Camino Portuguese Coastal

Created by Colleen | Updated : 18 January 2025 | ,

If I told you that today you could walk along a wild and rocky coastline, paddle in shallow waters from a few sandy beaches, explore centuries old fisheries, eat a fabulous seafood lunch overlooking the Atlantic, and wander through a long since abandoned medieval monastery, would you want to rush?

Me neither! Which is why my stage, from A Guarda to Oia, is a shorter day at just 14.3 kilometres.

Some guides for the Portuguese Coastal Route suggest walking further, and for those with tight schedules, that might make sense. But if you can spare an extra day or two, the slower pace will be worth it. 

I’ve walked from Porto to Santiago de Compostela many times, each visit with a different stage end. But for my last two visits, I stayed with this schedule, and it works perfectly. This is your first full day walking in Spain, through the Celtic lands of legends and ancient peoples. It’s not a day to be rushed.

stunning ancient monastery on the coast at Oia in Galicia

Route Overview: A Guarda to Oia (14.3 km)

There’s always a choice on the Portuguese Camino, but today it’s an easy one, and will be largely influenced by where you spent the night.

Services are sparse on this stage, so have breakfast before leaving A Guarda. And I’d also recommend picking up a few snacks to carry with you; these will come in handy today and tomorrow.

The trail itself is straightforward, hugging the coast with stunning views for much of the way. There is a section of road walking, I’ve named it the “Yellow Brick Road”—though it’s tarmac rather than brick. It’s safe and easy to navigate but does have a noticeable camber, which some walkers (myself included) might find uncomfortable. Walking poles can be a great help here.

Challenges aside, this is a beautiful stage with little elevation, and plenty of opportunities to soak up the scenery. There’s also a very welcome café about halfway through and an excellent restaurant in Oia if you’re looking for a good lunch.

  • A Guarda and Oia Distance : 14.3 km
  • A Guarda and Oia Elevation Gain : 132 m | Elevation Loss : 160 m
map for the A Guarda to Oia stage on the Camino Portuguese Coastal
elevation profile for the A Guarda to Oia stage on the Camino Portuguese Coastal

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Towns and Villages Between A Guarda and Oia

As you’d expect on a short day, there aren’t many services between A Guarda and Oia. But what this stage lacks in amenities, it more than makes up for with views and a few fascinating places to explore.

A Guarda

The Camino arrows in A Guarda guide you through the town, but this is a fishing town and we’re walking the Portuguese Coastal Route, so why not take the trail beside the sea?

When I stay in A Guarda, I usually stay at Hotel Monumento Convento de San Benito , and from there, I head down to the beach.  Take the path to the right of the beach, which leads past the Museo do Mar, near the harbour wall. From here, simply keep the sea on your left. Follow the path, and soon you’ll arrive at Praia Fedorento and Praia Area Grande.

Top Tip : Service are few and far between today, so carry water and pack a few snacks. Gerry’s emergency apple is always a good choice, but nuts, bananas, or dried fruit work just as well. If the bakery in A Guarda is open, you might even treat yourself to a fresh croissant or empanada!

Take a look at the A Guarda Tourist Map if you’d like help to get your bearings.

the view of the sea, as you leave A Guarda with the rocky shore and distant hills

Praia Fedorento and Area Grande (2.1 km)

Your little coastal walk brings you out at two beaches.  The first Praia Fedorento is the small beach with very little by way of services.  It’s name translates as stinky beach; believed to originate from natural seaweed deposits that occasionally wash ashore, emitting a distinctive aroma.

Next you have Praia de Area Grande which translates as big area, and it is indeed bigger than the other beaches,   This is a Blue Flag beach (meaning excellent water quality) and in summer there is a lifeguard.  There are also toilets by the beach but usually no other services; but if you fancy a morning paddle this could be ideal!

From here the trail take you across the rocky shoreline on a wonderful coastal path.  The trail is easy and well marked and it feels like you’re miles from anywhere.  The last time I walked we had an early morning sea mist; it dampened the views but made for some glorious photos.

pilgrim walking through the mist on the Camino Coastal from A Guarda

Cetarea Da Redonda (1.7 km)

The coastline around A Guarda has been a source of food for millennia. The ancient Celts and Romans understood that these shores offered a rich source of food and fishing and gathering shellfish existed here long before modern times.

However, it was in the 1890s, that local fishermen created the Cetarea da Redonda, a purpose-built nursery designed for raising lobsters and shellfish. There are four cetareas along this coast, but the Cetárea da Redonda is right on the Camino, making it an easy detour. You’re free to explore at your leisure and see firsthand how this early marine nursery functioned.

The cetarea’s design allowed seawater to flow in at high tide, creating a controlled environment to keep shellfish alive and fresh and it’s size meant it was still. Lobsters and other crustaceans were stored here, with a capacity of up to 2,000 kilograms at a time; you can see now why A Guarda is famous for its shellfish!

Today, you’ll find information boards along the path leading to the cetarea, explaining its history and function. Many pilgrims walk right past without stopping which is a great shame; it’s a really cool site  and offers a glimpse into the ingenuity of these coastal communities.

From the Cetarea, you’ll be take up from the coast and onto a road.  At first a smaller road before joining the PO-522 (my yellow brick road); which will be your companion on and off for a couple of day. 

Top Tip: The path alongside the road is safe and clearly marked, but it has a noticeable camber sloping down to the left. I find myself shifting around on the path to find the flattest area, and hiking poles really help take the strain.

Next time I walk, I’m planning to try a gel insert for my left foot to see if it makes a difference.  Interestingly, Gerry doesn’t seem bothered at all but if you’re sensitive to uneven ground, this section might be worth preparing for.

the lobster fishery along the coast with clear water showing the construction to raise the lobsters

Portocelos (4.4 km)

You’ll leave the road and head down into Portocelos. And hurrah—there’s a little café with stunning views of the sea!

Café Horizontale offers hot coffee, cold drinks, and snacks and a welcome stop for pilgrims. There are a few tables inside, plenty outside, and two toilets (though these can get busy if lots of pilgrims stop here). You can even get a sello for your credentials, so don’t forget to ask!

From here, you’ll leave the main road for a while, following a smaller rural track with more beautiful coastal views. A few years ago, we walked through during the local marathon. Hundreds of runners passed us, heading back to A Guarda. Our group cheered and clapped as they ran by, and they clapped for us as we meandered along. It was great fun, sharing the party atmosphere for a few kilometres!

About 500 metres from the café, if you’re really eagle-eyed you’ll find some unassuming rocks, much like many others. But these are the Petróglifos de Portecelo, ancient petroglyphs that date back to the Bronze Age. They depict geometric shapes, animals, and human figures; maybe some kind of message from our ancient ancestors? I know in Africa they told us the bushmen carved images for those that followed, like an early messaging service!  

You’ll need to leave the trail a tiny bit to find them, but for the curious they might be worth exploring

You’ll rejoin the Yellow Brick Road trail and about 3 kilometres after leaving the café, you’ll spot a sign pointing to a Meditative Garden created by Jose. The Camino continues on but if you take the detour, you’ll rejoin a little down the road. 

my group photo in a roadside mirror on the yellow brick road

Oia (6.1 km)

Before reaching Oia, you’ll leave the road and follow a quiet, meandering path that leads you to the Ermita de San Sebastián.

This tiny chapel, overlooking the sea, was originally dedicated to Santo Antón. While the exact date of its first construction is unknown,  we know it was rebuilt in 1770 and rededicated to San Sebastián. Inside, you can light a candle and there’s also a sello available for your credentials.

The last time we passed, two enterprising young boys were selling bottles of cold water for a euro. It was a very hot day, and their efforts were very much appreciated.

Just 600 meters further from the chapel you’ll enter the glorious little village of Oia, dominated by the Monastery of Santa María de Oia, a 12th-century Cistercian monastery perched beside the sea.

And if you do nothing else, treat yourself to lunch at Tapería A Camboa! This a very popular restaurant and certainly at the weekend, it’s worth reserving a table in advance.  We’ve eaten here a few times and never been disappointed.

Top Tip : Please never book ahead either accommodation or restaurants and not turn up.  This is a huge problem along the Camino and really does impact on businesses.  By all means reserve a table to secure your bed, but please please please, turn up!

a lone pilgrim on the beach at Oia

Exploring Oia

Oia is a sweet little fishing village but it’s fair to say a stay here is all about the Monastery.

My first visit to Oia was planned around a visit to the Monastery of Santa María de Oia. The timing meant I either faced a long walk afterward or I stayed the night in the village; and staying turned out to be a wonderful choice.

This stretch of coastline has been settled since the Iron Age, with traces left behind by invaders from the Romans to the Moors. However, Oia rose to prominence during the Middle Ages with the establishment of its monastery.

The Monastery of Santa María de Oia was officially founded in 1137, likely consolidating smaller monastic communities already here. In 1149, King Alfonso VII of León and Castile granted the monks lands in Mougás, Viladesuso, and Pedornes, and by 1185, the monastery had joined the Cistercian Order.

The monastery flourished under royal protection, and in 1624, the monks famously defended the coast from Turkish and Berber pirates. In recognition of their bravery, King Philip IV granted it the title of “Royal and Imperial Monastery of Oia.”

However, with its disbandment in 1835 during the Mendizábal Disentailment, the monastery had an eclectic history. It housed Jesuits expelled from Portugal (later expelled from Spain in 1932) and served as a prison camp for Republican prisoners during the Spanish Civil War (1937–1939); much like the famous Parador in Leon.

Today, it is in a state of decline, but it was recently acquired by Vasco Gallega, with plans underway for its restoration. Whatever the future holds, this remarkable building seems destined to be preserved for generations to come.

This is a fascinating national monument, and being able to visit, even in its current state, is a gift. I truly hope you find time to explore it during your Camino.

the Monastery at Oia at sunset

Where to Stay in Oia

Oia is a small village with limited accommodation and services, so I highly recommend booking private rooms in advance if you wish to stay here. For dining, consider having lunch at the restaurant, as it’s not always open in the evening.

On one visit, our group bought supplies in A Guarda and shared a simple supper on the terrace, watching the sunset; honestly this is a magical little place!

  • La Cala – A Pilgrim’s Inn : Tanya, a former pilgrim, has created a glorious little albergue. You can book a private room (with a shared bathroom) or a single bed in the mixed dormitory.  There’s a lovely terrace, laundry facilities and a well equipped kitchen for simple food prep. During peak pilgrim season, she may not accept reservations, so plan accordingly. Also, ask her about massages; she knows a fantastic physiotherapist!
  • Casa Puertas: A beautiful little Casa Rural offering boutique-style rooms right in the heart of the village. You could happily stay here a few days and relax!
  • Hotel A Raiña: For those seeking hotel-style accommodation, A Raiña is a great option. They offer twin and triple rooms, as well as dinner and breakfast if needed. The hotel is slightly outside the village but on the Camino, making it easy for pilgrims wanting to stay here.
beautiful trail and a camino marker between A Guarda and Oia

Potential Challenges Between A Guarda and Oia

Today’s stage is a gentle one, with minimal elevation and few significant challenges. However, here are a few reminders to help you prepare:

  • Finding the Arrows: The arrows leading out of A Guarda are located in the town centre, but I prefer to take the coastal path to Area Grande beach. From there, the trail is well marked, and it saves you the trouble of hunting for arrows in the streets of A Guarda.
  • Exposed Coast: The route offers stunning ocean views but very little shade or protection from the elements. Be sure to carry sun protection (sunscreen and a hat) and a waterproof jacket in case of rain or wind. A buff can also come in handy for chilly mornings.
  • Lack of Services: There’s really only one café along the trail today, so make sure to have a good breakfast in A Guarda and stock up on snacks or essentials before you leave.
  • Limited Accommodation: If you’re planning to stay in Oia, I recommend booking ahead, as options are limited and fill quickly. However, no matter your plans, allow time to visit the Monastery of Santa María de Oia; it’s a glorious slice of history.
  • The Yellow Brick Road: For me some sections have a camber that can be uncomfortable. If you’re sensitive to uneven ground, walking poles or trying different parts of the path can help.
  • Evening Dining: If you’re staying in Oia, keep in mind that the village has limited options at night. There is a bar (with gluten free beer) but some restaurants may not be open in the evening. Consider having your main meal at lunch or picking up supplies in A Guarda.
  • Sunday Openings: And just a reminder that if you’re leaving A Guarda on a Sunday, be mindful of Sunday closing hours.
  • Time Change: And, remember that now in Spain the clocks change from Portugal times; an hour forward.

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

two crucifix in the hermitage just outside of Oia

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites for the Coastal Camino

If you’re walking any stage of the Camino Portuguese Coastal, these apps, guidebooks, and websites are invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

  • AlertCops: A free app that connects you directly with the Spanish police. While not particularly useful in Portugal, it’s excellent for peace of mind once you cross the border. Remember, the emergency international operator in Portugal (and across Europe) is 112.
  • What3Words: A lifesaver in emergencies, this app pinpoints your exact location to a 3×3 metre square anywhere in the world. It’s free to download and invaluable if needed.
  • Wise Pilgrim: Though not free, this app is well worth a few euros. It’s packed with helpful information about the Portuguese Camino and it’s been on my phone for many years.
  • Google Translate: English is widely spoken in Portugal, but this app is handy for menus, signs, or conversations. You can type, take a photo (great for menus), or speak into it for instant translations. Download the Portuguese and Spanish languages in advance for offline use.
  • Casa Ivar: A trusted source for purchasing credentials, pilgrim shells, or luggage forwarding to Santiago. Ivar also runs the international pilgrim forum and has lived in Santiago for many years.
  • John Brierley Guides: The go-to guidebook for Camino pilgrims. Compact, regularly updated, and filled with useful details. The Portuguese guide covers the route from Lisbon, including both the Coastal and Central routes.
  • WhatsApp: Many albergues and pilgrim services prefer communication via WhatsApp. Be sure to download it before leaving home, as some phones may block new app installs overseas.
  • Airalo: Not an app but an eSIM provider that’s easy to set up before departure. It allows you to connect to mobile data as soon as you arrive. Check if your phone supports eSIMs, as it’s a hassle-free alternative to finding a physical SIM card.
  • Revolut and Wise Bank Cards: Not apps but travel essentials. Both Revolut and Wise cards make paying for services and withdrawing foreign currency simple and offer favourable exchange rates. Setting them up can take time, especially for American users, but they’re highly reliable and accepted in both Portugal and Spain.  We’ve used both these currency cards globally and would not travel without them.

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

stunning wild coast of Galicia between A Guarda and Oia

Final Thoughts: Camino Portuguese Coastal From A Guarda to Oia

If walking the Camino is about the journey we make, then today’s stage from A Guarda to Oia is one to savour. Yes, it’s possible to extend the stage; and yes you could walk 14 kilometres before lunch and keep walking. But doing so means missing out on so much of what makes this stage special.

You might not wander around the circular fish farms or enjoy a chat over café con leche, You’d likely skip the Jardín de Meditación and fail to pause at the Ermita de San Sebastián. You’d miss the chance to linger over a long lunch by the sea, or explore a national monument and imagine the life of the monks who lived here a thousand years ago. And you’d certainly not find yourself sitting on the sea wall with a glass of wine, watching the sun set into the ocean.

This stage is one of my favourites. Admittedly, I’m not the biggest fan of the Yellow Brick Road, but everything else more than makes up for it. So take the time to slow down. Break the stages, savour the journey, and enjoy all the magic this part of the Camino Portuguese Coastal Route has to offer.

sunset from the sea wall in Oia looking out to the atlantic ocean

Are You Walking The Portuguese Coastal Camino?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I know I’ll walk again. If you’re walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve created detailed daily walking guides packed with route tips, accommodation recommendations, and insights to help you along the way.

Here are some posts that may inspire and help you to plan your journey:

If you’re planning your Camino or are already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences! Join my Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, find inspiration and ideas for the road ahead.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.

Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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