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Viana Do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora : Step By Step Guide To Stage 5 Of The Camino Portuguese Coastal

Created by Colleen | Updated : 16 January 2025 | ,

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Stage 4: Esposende to Viana do Castelo
Stage 6: Vila Praia de Ancora – A Guarda

Who’s ready for an adventure today? The Portuguese Camino from Viana Do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora offers many choices. I’ve tried each over the years, and we even plotted our own path but these days I believe that the best option is a combination of two routes; the Coastal and the Litoral.  It gives you the very best of everything that this stage has to offer.

We’ll follow the coastal path out of Viana, soaking up the views as the sun rises higher.  We can explore the forts and salt pans and make a quick stop in Carreço before picking up the yellow arrows and heading inland. We’ll walk up into the hills, crossing rivers, and maybe stop at one of my favourite cafés, before arriving in Vila Praia de Ancora.

Many guides suggest continuing to Caminha to end this stage, but I’ve also adjusted the stage ends too.  Ancora, A Guarda, Oia, and Baiona are far too beautiful to simply walk through as part of a longer day.  I know that some people are short on time but if the Camino is all about the journey, then take a day or two longer to fully appreciate how wild and glorious this coastline really is.

sunset over the beach at Vila Praia de Ancora

Route Overview :  Viana Do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora Stage (21.9 km)

The route you choose today will greatly impact the terrain and elevation you face. If you decide to hug the coast all the way to Vila Praia de Ancora, you’ll encounter minimal elevation but you will face stretches of beach walking, which can slow your pace.

Alternatively, the traditional Coastal Camino route out of Viana involves some elevation but skips the sandy paths.

If you follow my preference, you’ll enjoy the best of both worlds. My route reduces elevation while keeping you on an easy to walk beachside path, avoiding the challenges of long sand stretches.

Below are the elevation profiles for the two main options, and my preferred choice:

  • Traditional Coastal Camino :
    Distance: 19.8 km | Elevation Gain: 213 m | Elevation Loss: 236 m
  • Senda Litoral :
    Distance: 18.9 km | Elevation Gain: 28 m | Elevation Loss: 36 m
  • My Suggested Route :
    Distance: 21.9 km | Elevation Gain: 137 m | Elevation Loss: 168 m

None of these routes are long but follow my suggestions and you’ll have less elevation and without the need to tackle a few kilometres of sand walking. It’s a perfect compromise for enjoying both the coastline and the interior paths and villages.

Top Tip : The maps below are for the Coastal Route from Viana Do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora; read on to see my map for the first half of today.

route map for the Camino Portuguese Coastal from Viana Do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora
elevation profile for the Camino Portuguese Coastal from Viana Do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora

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Towns and Villages between Viana Do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora

Regardless of which route you take today, services are spaced out a bit, and perhaps more limited outside the main tourist season. I recommend having breakfast before leaving Viana and make sure you have enough water for the day.

Viana do Castelo

If you read my post about the stage from Esposende to Viana do Castelo, you’ll know how much I love this town. But leaving offers you choices. While the official Coastal Camino leads you inland through the town centre, I prefer to walk beside the water.

There are no arrows, but my advice is to head to the river and follow your nose. You can stroll beside the river and look back and see the sun rise behind the Pont Eiffel. Wander past the Gil Eannes Ship Museum and on to the Forte de Santiago da Barra.

From the fort, pass the Escola Profissional ETAP and turn left onto Avenida do Atlântico. Keep going, and you’ll find yourself on the seaside promenade that will take you all the way to Carreço.

This is popular path for locals, especially on a sunny Sunday morning. You’ll meet parents with prams, dog walkers, and couples, and joggers out for a run and folks like us, simply enjoying this glorious coastal trail.

Top Tip: The route from Viana to Carreca is part of the Ecovia Litoral do Norte protected ecosystem. 

colleen's path from the hotel to the coast and on to Carreco

Forte da Areosa and Moinho de Vento da Areosa

As you walk along, keep an eye out for the bathing pools carved into the rocky shore and the ancient Forte da Areosa, another reminder of the area’s military past. Constructed in 1640 the forts were intended to strengthen the defences of the coast, which was vulnerable to a possible attack from both Pirates and the Spanish Navy!

Further on, more windmills; the Moinho de Vento da Areosa.  Traditional windmills that once harnessed the power of the coastal winds to grind grain.

But long before the windmills, this coast was home to ancient pre-historic communities. Archaeological findings suggest these early settlers were ingenious and resourceful, drawn by the abundance of resources on the land and sea.

windmills on the trail between Viana and Ancora

Salt Pans and Roman History

Look out for the information boards along the way as they offer fascinating insights into the lives of these early inhabitants and their salt pans.

Over 700 pans have been found and some are still visible today, particularly at low tide. I just find it incredible that our ancestors were collecting salt to preserve their food from around 3000 BCE; that’s 5,000 years ago!

There are information boards along this stretch of coast explaining how the area and the land has been shaped and settled since the last ice-age.  Some were looking a little weather beaten when we last walked but they are interesting.

Top Tip : As you approach Carreco there’s an opportunity to take a boardwalk along the very last section of beach.  Take this as it brings you out at the beach café.

At Carreço beach, I think you’ll also find evidence of Roman activity. The Romans were known for utilising salt pans and it’s believed they left their mark on this area. But I’m not 100% sure if I’ve remembered this correctly so if you see the information board on the beach, please take a photo and share it in my Facebook group.

The coastal path from Viana to Carreca

Carreço Beach Café (8.6 km)

At the end of the beach walk, you’ll come across a little cafe; Areia Cozinha na Praia. It hasn’t always been open, but on my last two visits in April and September it was a welcome stop.  It was pretty busy with locals and pilgrims alike; it’s a wonderful little stop so take advantage if you can.

From the café, you’ll turn away from the beach and go inland, follow the long straight road that leads up to the N-13.  You’ll arrive at a roundabout and need to cross the busy road; use the pedestrian crossing on the right of the roundabout.

Top Tip : When I last walked a car stopped us and told us to go back to the coast. He said the route was better on the coast and that inland the trail was not marked. This isn’t true. I wonder if he is a cafe owner looking for passing pilgrims or maybe he just loves the coast; either way it’s safe to ignore this advice. 

Follow the arrows out of Carreco and if in doubt use the Wise Pilgrim App.

beautiful wild coast from Viana to Carreca

Carreço (1.2 km)

Once you’ve crossed the N-13 at the roundabout turn left, but take the quieter road to the right of the main highway;  Avenida Nossa Senhora da Graça. Follow it for a short distance until a Camino arrow turns you to the right, into Rua da Sociedade de Instrução e Recreio.

You’re now back on the traditional Coastal route. The arrows will guide you past the little train station, over a railway bridge, and by the Capela de São Sebastião. They’ll lead you all the way to  Vila Praia de Ancora, meandering through rural hamlets and narrow cobbled streets. As Gerry would say, it “wibbles” here and there, but the arrows are there and will keep you on the right track.

As you leave Carreco you’ll come across the tiny chapel of São Sebastiao.  Built in 1676, according to the date inscribed on the arch that surrounds the altarpiece it was once a chapel for pilgrims. 

From here you’re walking up so expect a little elevation, above the coast and with sweeping  views of the beaches below. You’ll walk through shadier forests and rural hamlets, which are a world away from the coastal walk; and one of the reasons why I love both halves of todays walk.

There are a few options for overnight accommodation here :

  • Albergue Casa do Sardão : Almost a thousand pilgrims rank this albergue almost perfect. It’s in a stunning location, very comfortable bunks, wonderful indoor and outdoors spaces and excellent food and a host who’ll go out of his way to help you! It’s on the Camino and if you only choose one or two albergue along this Camino, this would be a good choice!
Book Albergue Casa do Sardão
following yellow arrows on the inland coastal path

Afife (1.8 km)

The trail skirts the edge of Afife rather than taking you into the village. Often, the high drystone walls block your view, so sometimes you wouldn’t even know a town was there.  

Top Tip: Gerry and I once decided to ignore the arrows and explore Afife. We had a picnic beside the church and then made our way back down to the beaches. The beach walk into Ancora is undeniably beautiful, but it was a tough few kilometres of soft sand and dunes with full packs on.

If you’re feeling adventurous, this is a stunning coastline but be prepared for very tired legs and a good workout!

If you stick to the arrows, you’ll soon leave the cobbled streets and re-enter forests, following a trail that leads you into Cabanas.  Look out on your left before you cross the little bridge for Café Cabanas.  And stop here. 

the old bridge crossing the river Afife

Café Cabanas – Rio Afife (3.9 km)

Café Cabanas is just wonderful. Find a table in the shade, order tea and cakes or whatever you fancy from their menu.  Take off your boots, wiggle your toes and just enjoy this glorious little corner of the Camino Portuguese.  It may well be one of my favourite cafes on any Camino de Santiago!

From Café Cabanas, the arrows lead you over the bridge, turn right and follow the Rio Afife for a short distance before the arrows take you left, heading back uphill.  

This next part of the trail includes the biggest climb of the day, but don’t worry, it’s not that bad but it might get your heart pumping.  At the top there’s a tiny church, I know it’s just a few more steps to walk but go anyway as the views are fabulous.  And you can take a break in the shade before the last few kilometres of the day; forest trails all the way to Ancora.

beautiful Cafe Cabanas, the perfect place for a rest

Ancora (3 km)

The markers will bring you out at the top of Ancora, but you’ve still got a couple of kilometres to cover before reaching the beach. Thankfully, arrows will guide you down through the cobbled streets, which give way to wider roads with pavements.

Once in the town, there’s a national monument; the Dolmen da Barrosa (or Lapa dos Mouros).  It’s a megalithic burial chamber dating back to the late Neolithic period, around 3000 BC. Despite its historical significance, I’ve never been able to find it! If you do, please let me know how to locate it for my next visit; it’s marked on the map but remains elusive to me.

Moving on the arrows lead you to a footbridge over the busy N13 highway. I’ve seen confusing markers here, but you definitely want to cross the footbridge to head toward the beach.

On the other side of the footbridge, yellow markers become sparse. My advice: go left, then right, then left again, and finally right. You should reach Rua 31 de Janeiro, opposite a Repsol petrol station. (maybe check on google as I might have the left and rights wrong!). 

However, I am sure that next to the Petrol Station, you’ll see a little road that takes you under the railway line and brings you out beside the sands and the beach of the glorious Praia de Ancora.

stop and enjoy the views before Ancora under a shady tree

Vila Praia de Ancora (3.4 km)

Prepare to be wowed by this beach! Stopping short of Caminha today means you can indulge in a few hours beside the seaside and it’s totally worth it as this is a wonderful beach.  

Vila Praia de Ancora offers a range of accommodation options, we’ve stayed in a few different hotels but the Meira is our favourite.  There are more budget-friendly options and a great little albergue too.

But today’s end is all about the beach. Enjoy a seafood supper beside the sea and watch the sun set over the Atlantic ocean.

gerry walking along the beach into Vila Nova Praia de Ancora

Exploring Vila Praia de Ancora

Vila Praia de Ancora, was known as Santa Marinha de Gontinhães until 1924, and takes its current name from the Latin word for anchor (Ancora); emphasising the town’s coastal identity and maritime heritage.

While the name may be relatively modern, the area itself has been inhabited since prehistoric times. The Anta da Barrosa, a megalithic monument, stands as a testament to this ancient history.

Today, Vila Praia de Ancora is a seaside town, but for those who like exploring, there are still a couple of things to do:

  • Forte da Lagarteira (Fort of Lagarteira): Situated near the harbor, is another  17th-century military fortress, constructed during the Restoration Wars to protect the coast from Spanish incursions. Its familiar star-shaped design is part of a network of coastal forts, which we’ve been following since Porto.
  • Capela de Nossa Senhora da Bonança : Found in the Plaza de la República, built in 1890 on the site of a much older 14th century church, it’s adorned with flowers. The local fishing community traditionally sought the protection of Our Lady of Bonança for safe journeys and plentiful catches.  Bonanca translates as calm seas so our Our Lady of Bonança is our lady of the calm seas.
  • The Beach: If you’re planning a swim, stick close to the promenade where the waters are calmer. Further along the beach, the Atlantic can be more feisty and better suited for surfing than swimming. But if you fancy a walk, the beach and the dunes are a lovely option.  There are boardwalks which lead you through the dunes, though they are interrupted by the Ancora River partway along.

If you’re visiting in early September, look out for the centuries-old festival Festa em Honra de Nossa Senhora da Bonança. It features religious ceremonies, parades and live entertainment. We missed the festival on our last visit but did get to see the flowers; the town was adorned in blooms!

Vila Novo de Ancora church covered in pink flowers

Where to Stay in Vila Praia de Ancora

Vila Praia de Ancora has plenty of accommodation options, but as always, I’ll recommend places I know and trust.

  • Albergaria Quim Barreiros: Located right on the beach and close to many cafes and bars, it’s a great location. It’s not an albergue, but the rooms are simple, clean, and comfortable and offer good value for money. I’ve stayed here with the Walking Club and would happily stay again.
Book Albergaria Quim Barreiros
  • Hotel Meira: I absolutely love this hotel. Gerry and I stayed here on his first Portuguese Camino and I’ve returned since. While it’s not the cheapest option, it is fabulous. The hotel features a small pool, a spa, and incredibly comfortable beds; you won’t want to leave. The reception staff are always helpful and the breakfast is excellent. If you have special dietary needs, let them know when you book.
Book Hotel Meira
  • Hostel D’Avenida: A friend stayed here (while we were at the Meira!) and they were very happy with their stay. They especially recommended the bunk beds for comfort. It is a good budget option, but it books up quickly, so reserve your spot early.
Book Hostel D’Avenida

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church doors adorned with flowers along the Camino trail

Potential Challenges Between Viana Do Castelo and Vila Praia de Ancora

I love the walk between Viana Do Castelo and Vila Praia de Ancora; it’s what I’d call a baby bear kind of day; not too much of anything. But, like any Camino stage, there are a few challenges to be aware of.

  • Choices: Today offers a lot of options and that’s ok.  Remember, nowhere does it say that you must follow every yellow arrow to Santiago de Compostela. Medieval pilgrims walked their own paths and you can do the same. However, if you’re not in the mood for an adventure or potential backtracking follow my plan to keep things simple, I promise you won’t regret it!
  • Beach Walking: If you decide to stick with the beach, some sections of the Senda Litoral after Carreço involve walking on sand. It’s wonderful to be beside the sea, but sand can be tiring and slow you down. We’ve also encountered construction and boardwalks that abruptly end which meant some unwanted detours. Be prepared to navigate these interruptions and allow a bit of extra time if you opt to walk in on the sand.
  • Sun: I’ve walked this route from April to November from full sun to blustery winds.  Be prepared for weather! Wear sunscreen, bring a hat, and maybe carry a buff to protect against the wind. And don’t forget a raincoat; showers can pop up unexpectedly and it’s always better to be prepared.
  • Route Markings: If you choose to walk out of Viana along the coast, you won’t find arrows. But honestly, you really don’t need them. Stay on the coastal trail until Carreço, where you’ll rejoin the arrows. If you’d like extra reassurance, use Wise Pilgrim; it tracks your location in real time and shows your position relative to the Camino. I’ve led groups along this route many times, and none of us have ever found it difficult to navigate.  It’s a fabulous walk and very easy to follow.
  • Elevation: There’s not a lot of elevation today, but there are a few hills to tackle. Hiking poles can help take the edge off on the way up and provide a little extra help for the knees on the way down. (don’t forget to lengthen walking poles on downhill sections).
  • Cobbles: Ah, those Portuguese cobbles; They maybe pretty but they are also tough on your feet. Have regular breaks, take off your shoes, and give your toes a wiggle. Your feet will thank you for it.
  • Accommodation During the Festival: If you’re walking in early September during the Festa em Honra de Nossa Senhora da Bonança, the town can get busy, and accommodation books up quickly. Be sure to plan ahead and secure your stay well in advance.
  • Sunday Lunch : We once walked in at lunchtime on a Sunday.  We’ve had a tough walk along the sand dunes and opted to head to our hotel before eating.  This was a mistake as come dinner time everywhere was closed.  It was October but even so, if you arrive on a Sunday maybe have lunch rather than dinner!
walking uphill on the Camino Portuguese on the way to Ancora

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites for the Coastal Camino

If you’re walking any stage of the Camino Portuguese Coastal, these apps, guidebooks, and websites are invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

  • AlertCops: A free app that connects you directly with the Spanish police. While not particularly useful in Portugal, it’s excellent for peace of mind once you cross the border. Remember, the emergency international operator in Portugal (and across Europe) is 112.
  • What3Words: A lifesaver in emergencies, this app pinpoints your exact location to a 3×3 metre square anywhere in the world. It’s free to download and invaluable if needed.
  • Wise Pilgrim: Though not free, this app is well worth a few euros. It’s packed with helpful information about the Portuguese Camino and it’s been on my phone for many years.
  • Google Translate: English is widely spoken in Portugal, but this app is handy for menus, signs, or conversations. You can type, take a photo (great for menus), or speak into it for instant translations. Download the Portuguese and Spanish languages in advance for offline use.
  • Casa Ivar: A trusted source for purchasing credentials, pilgrim shells, or luggage forwarding to Santiago. Ivar also runs the international pilgrim forum and has lived in Santiago for many years.
  • John Brierley Guides: The go-to guidebook for Camino pilgrims. Compact, regularly updated, and filled with useful details. The Portuguese guide covers the route from Lisbon, including both the Coastal and Central routes.
  • WhatsApp: Many albergues and pilgrim services prefer communication via WhatsApp. Be sure to download it before leaving home, as some phones may block new app installs overseas.
  • Airalo: Not an app but an eSIM provider that’s easy to set up before departure. It allows you to connect to mobile data as soon as you arrive. Check if your phone supports eSIMs, as it’s a hassle-free alternative to finding a physical SIM card.
  • Revolut and Wise Bank Cards: Not apps but travel essentials. Both Revolut and Wise cards make paying for services and withdrawing foreign currency simple and offer favourable exchange rates. Setting them up can take time, especially for American users, but they’re highly reliable and accepted in both Portugal and Spain.  We’ve used both these currency cards globally and would not travel without them.

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

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climbing the steps through the village after Canabas

Final Thoughts: Camino Portuguese from Viana Do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora

Today’s stage is a truly wonderful walk. If ever there was a day to embrace the journey rather than focusing on the destination, it’s today.

There is so much history here and so much wild coast to explore.  Leaving Viana de Castelo you get to walk in the lands of our neolithic ancestors who settled here after the Ice Age, and the Romans who followed in their stead.  And moving inland you’ll find remnants of a medieval age; did I mention today is a glorious walk.

Yes, there are a few twists and turns, and yes you may need to keep an eye out for arrows, but overall, the trail is easy. There’s little to bother you but plenty to delight.

Don’t walk on to Caminha. Stop in Vila Praia de Ancora and enjoy your day at the seaside. If you’re following the coast to Santiago de Compostela, this will be your last night in Portugal.   There are more adventures to be had tomorrow but for today let it be all about the beach!

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

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fishing post on the harbour leaving Viana

Are You Walking The Portuguese Coastal Camino?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I know I’ll walk again. If you’re walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve created detailed daily walking guides packed with route tips, accommodation recommendations, and insights to help you along the way.

Here are some posts that may inspire and help you to plan your journey:

If you’re planning your Camino or are already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences! Join my Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, find inspiration and ideas for the road ahead.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

MondialCare : Due to increasing limitations, mainly due to age, we have recently switched to MondialCare for our travel insurance. We have taken an annual policy at a very reasonable cost that includes medical and other travel cover. There are no trip length limits and the upper age for cover is 84. For Camino walkers and travel in Europe they have a low cost Schengen policy with no age limit.

TrueTraveller : We have used this policy and were very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Author : Colleen Sims

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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