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Redondela to Pontevedra : Step By Step Guide To Stage 11 Of The Camino Portuguese Coastal

(And Stage 9 Of the Camino Portuguese Central)

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If you go down to the woods today, you’re sure of a big surprise…

There are no teddy bear picnics between Redondela and Pontevedra but there are glorious forests.  You’ll also get stunning views of the Vigo Estuary and the impressive Ponte de Rande, walk over ancient Roman roads and cross bridges where battles once changed the course of history.

Today is a good day. There are hills; oh yes, there are a couple! And those Roman roads have seen better days, so take your time.

I’ve walked this stage in all weathers. I’ve walked in rain and under apricot skies and every time I’ve loved it. Book a bed in Pontevedra and let the day unfold slowly. You’re in for a treat on the Camino Portuguese!

Route Overview: Redondela to Pontevedra (19.6 km)

Are you ready for some hills? Gerry always talks about the hill out of Redondela; it definitely packs a punch! If your stages differ from mine and you walk this section during the day, be prepared with a sunhat and sunscreen on a hot day!

I love the walk to Pontevedra, but it not without its challenges. The trail will be busier and whilst there are services they are well spaced. There are those hills and the terrain can be uneven and rocky in places, fabulous if you love the history but potentially tricky in the rain.

At the end of the day, you’ll choose between the Senda Fluvia or the traditional route; the riverside variant takes you off the tarmac but if there’s been heavy rain, the traditional route will be your best bet.  

If all that sounds daunting, don’t worry, it’s not. The trail is well-marked, and you’ll be rewarded with stunning views, peaceful forests, and a couple of great places to pause. Oh, and did I mention a bucket-load of Roman history?

Towns and Villages Between Redondela and Pontevedra

Today’s walk takes you through towns and villages, though the trail often skirts around rather than walking through them. You’ll find services along the way, but they are well-spaced, so plan ahead.

There’s a fair bit of tarmac today too but it’s balanced with some beautiful trails. And beginning and ending in towns means you’ll have the usual walk in and out, but it’s not industrial and the views are great if you remember to look back.

Redondela

You’ll leave the Town of Viaducts by walking up through the old town and passing under one of its iconic viaducts. The route takes you through older streets and then along the more modern outskirts.

The trail is well-marked and you shouldn’t have any trouble finding arrows. You’ll notice an increase in pilgrims too, as the two trails (Central and Coastal) have now merged into one path.

As you walk, keep in mind that the first few kilometres pass through residential areas. I so often see pilgrims walking two or three abreast, but these are busy streets with locals going about their daily business. Remember to stay on the pavements, walk on the left, and be aware of traffic when walking on the tarmac.

Once you leave the city, the climb starts, but you’ll be a quieter roads.  And as you leave Redondela behind there is a fabulous albergue that’s worth considering if you prefer to stay out of the town.

Cesantes (2.3 km)

As you leave Redondela, you’ll begin the climb, and the landscape definitely becomes more rural and the trail meanders through quiet streets bordered by stone walls. This is a long hill, so pace yourself; there’s no rush.

At about 3 kilometres from Redondela, there are three things to remember :

Once across the road, the climb continues, passing houses and a school. The arrows will take you left partway up the hill so switch sides of the road when there’s a safe crossing.

Gerry and I once walked this hill behind two pilgrims who were playing music on a small speaker. The speaker was poor quality, and the music; well lets just say it was urgh! Imagine Leonard Cohen and Johnny Cash had a child who adored very heavy metal! It was awful. We couldn’t overtake them because we were walking up the big hill, so we were stuck listening to this terrible music on such a glorious day.

Top Tip: Please don’t play loud music on the trail. It’s pretty miserable for everyone else around you.  

After the left turn, there’s more hill to tackle, but near the top you’ll find a water fountain and a few shaded picnic tables. On a hot day, the fountain is perfect for soaking your hat and cooling down!

At the top of the hill, there’s a fantastic Casa Rural which could be perfect if you like to break up your stages.  If not, from the top of the hill you’ll begin your descent (remember walking poles help your knees). And after a short walk along a busy road, you’ll arrive in Arcade.

Casa D’Mina is an exceptional little casa rural, right on the Camino. The kitchen is well equipped, so I’d recommend eating lunch in Redondela or shopping for supplies before heading out, as there are no services nearby.  But don’t let this deter you, Casa D’Mina is perfect; it’s peaceful, comfortable and an absolute gem of a hotel.

Arcade (4.9 km)

I’ve stayed in Arcade three times, and it’s a curious town. As you walk through, it feels very functional, but the arrows lead you away from its best part; the waterfront.

Arcade was an important strategic river port for the Romans, and the original bridge at Ponte Sampaio is said to have Roman origins. Sitting at the mouth of the Verdugo River, the town is famous today for its exceptional seafood, particularly its oysters. The estuary’s conditions are perfect for shellfish cultivation, perfect for Gerry!

And to pair with fresh seafood they also make a great wine; the Rías Baixas region is renowned for its Albariño.  We stayed once on the eve of Gerry’s birthday. He enjoyed fresh oysters and crab, washed down with a local unlabelled Albariño which was maybe the best we’ve ever had!  He was one very happy pilgrim.

Most pilgrims follow the arrows straight through Arcade and onto the famous Ponte Sampaio. However, if you’re willing to add a little extra distance to your day, take a detour down to the waterfront. It’s well worth the effort.  From the little harbour area you can follow a path along the waterfront to the Pontesampaio bridge and the arrows.

Top Tip : If you do take the waterfront trial stop for coffee first, as once you pass the bridge you will have missed your chance.

If you’d like to stay the night in town I can recommend :

Pontesampaio (1.4 km)

You’ll leave Arcade by crossing the very beautiful medieval bridge, but this is no ordinary bridge.

Built on Roman foundations, the first known reference to the bridge dates back to 977. Nearby stood the fortress of San Paio de Lodo, which was captured and destroyed by the Moors in 997. Afterward, travellers wishing to cross had to pay a toll; until Archbishop Diego Gelmírez of Santiago de Compostela put an end to this practice.

However, it was in 1809 that the bridge earned its place in history. On the 7th and 8th of June 1809, Spanish and French forces clashed in the Battle of Ponte Sampaio, during the Peninsular Wars.  Nearly 20,000 men fought, with an estimated 2,000–3,000 soldiers killed or wounded. The French were forced to retreat, abandoning Galicia entirely; a key turning point in a war that eventually led to Napoleon’s defeat.

Top Tip: The bridge is used by both pedestrians and vehicles. Be kind and step aside to let drivers pass; they’ll appreciate it.

Across the river lies the small village of Pontesampaio, which takes its name from the bridge. The village is home to a small 12th-century Church of Santa María, and an excellent albergue:

Leaving Ponte Sampaio

Leaving the village, the path weaves through ancient houses, up a steep narrow road lined with corn cribs and houses bedecked with flowers. After crossing the road, the trail leads onwards on a rural path, following the RXIX; the original Roman Road.

Today, you’ll maybe find a place or two offering snacks, souvenirs, and maybe even a sello (stamp) as you walk through the forest. And as you ascend, there was a small coffee stop with excellent café con leche!

Around 6 km from Ponte Sampaio, after leaving the forest but before reaching Santa Maria, there’s a worthwhile little detour to Café Fermin. A sign on the trail points to a path leading to the back of the bar. It’s just a few metres off-route and offers hot and cold drinks, food, and an adjoining shop.

You don’t need to backtrack either; simply walk down the road from the bar, and you’ll rejoin the arrows within a minute or so along the pavement.

Santa Marta (6.9 km)

You’ll walk beside the road, but on a trail, as you enter Santa Marta. There are a few services but most pilgrims simply pass through. However, on the opposite side of the road, you’ll see the tiny Capela de Santa Marta.

Located in the village of Santa Marta de Bértola, the chapel dates back to 1617. It’s a tiny building that was recently restored and is worth a quick visit. You can get a sello inside although in recent years, I’ve often seen a small gaggle of pilgrims eager to peek inside, so I tend to keep walking. If you decide to cross the road to visit the chapel, look out for cars. While it’s usually quiet, pilgrims can sometimes forget to watch for passing traffic.

Just 500 metres after leaving the village, you’ll meet the turn for the River Walk into Pontevedra. A pretty little route that takes you away from the Roman road and onto softer trails.

When we walked in 2021, Gerry took more pleasure in the stones beneath our feet, than the beauty of the forest. From Ponte de Lima, we’d been seeing references to the Via Hispana XIX, which he started called R19.

That day, we’d walked for many kilometres along the ancient stones, marvelling at the ingenuity of Roman engineering. The road once connected Seville, Mérida, and Braga to Iria Flavia and Padrón, before eventually diverting to Astorga. I’ve walked through these on other Caminos; so much history, so many stories woven into the paths we follow.

Top Tip : if there has been a lot of rain, there is usually a notice warning that the river route is closed; it will be flooded and extremely muddy you’d be wise to heed the advice.

Senda Fluvia (0.5 km)

The river route option is well-marked, and if ever there was an alternative worth taking, this is it. Staying on the traditional route keeps you close to the road as you approach Pontevedra; it’s not terrible, but the river option is nicer.

This path meanders through green spaces, soft trails, and crosses a few wooden bridges. The distance is around the same, but the river setting offers a more pleasant experience.

One November, after prolonged rain, a notice on a Camino marker warned that the river route was flooded. Apart from heavy rain, this variant is almost always available. Both routes are well-marked, but the river path is gentler underfoot and leads you right into the heart of the city.

Top Tip : Make sure you know where in the city your hotel is.  There are a lot of albergue some distance from the Old Town and the heart of the city; I prefer to stay much closer to this area of town.

Pontevedra (3.6 km)

Pontevedra is a modern city but at it’s heart are grand historic buildings, narrow streets, hidden plazas, and a good selection of restaurants and hotels. And, of course, lots and lots of history!

With the second most important historic centre in Galicia (after Santiago de Compostela), Pontevedra was the largest city in the region during the 16th century. According to local legend, it was founded by Teucer, hero of the Trojan War. While the Celts also left their mark here, historians agree that the Romans brought the city to life in the 1st century BCE.

In 1169, King Ferdinand II granted the city a charter, recognising its importance as a trading port. Pontevedra flourished and much of that medieval layout still exists today, with narrow streets and hidden tree-lined plazas; and I say hidden as sometimes I struggle to find the places I love!

The historic centre was declared a historic-artistic complex in 1951, preserving its unique blend of medieval, modern, and contemporary architecture.

Over the years, I’ve noticed a change in Pontevedra. Many once-abandoned buildings in the old town have been renovated and today it does feel more like a city on the up.  There’s so much to see and do in Pontevedra that it’s worth considering a rest day here to explore

Top Tip: Check the location of your hotel before you follow the Camino arrows into the city centre; it might save you backtracking.  And if you arrive early, I recommend having lunch in the old town; many restaurants operate on traditional Spanish hours, and dinner service starts around 8:30 or 9:00 p.m.

Exploring Pontevedra

The main attraction of Pontevedra lies in its rich history. As pilgrims, you should make time to visit the Basilica of Santa María la Mayor, which is uniquely shaped like a scallop shell in homage to the Camino.

Beyond that, the city is filled with charming squares, such as Praza da Ferrería and Praza da Leña, where you can sit, relax, and soak in the atmosphere. The tourist office is a great place to pick up a map of the main sights, but if you want to delve deeper, consider joining a guided tour.

Some highlights to explore include:

Other worthy sites include the Convent of San Domingo (13th century), the Gothic Church of San Francisco (13th century) and the Convent of Santa Clara (14th century). Also the Mugartegui Palace (18th century), which is now the headquarters of the Rías Baixas Wine Regulatory Council and the Palace of the Counts of Maceda which is now a luxurious Parador hotel.

For more information, visit the town’s official website and if you are looking for a few more unusual or organised tours you may like to consider :

Where to Stay in Pontevedra

Pontevedra offers plenty of options. Since it’s a large city, try to stay as close to the old town as possible; some albergue, including the municipal, are some distance from the centre.

Potential Challenges Between Redondela and Pontevedra

The biggest challenge today is going to be tackling those two hills; unless, like us, you find yourself stuck behind someone playing awful music! But there are always a few other things to consider:

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites for the Coastal Camino

If you’re walking any stage of the Camino Portuguese Coastal, these apps, guidebooks, and websites are invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

Final Thoughts: Camino Portuguese From Redondela to Pontevedra

Today feels like the Camino at its best. The arrows are plentiful, pilgrims are many, and the history is everywhere. This is Galicia: stone walls, country houses, the famous horreos and more than a few cows to share the trail with.

You can look forward to fresh seafood, crisp white wine, and tapas in a tiny square in the heart of Pontevedra’s old town. Quite simply, today is an excellent day.

If you can, take your time. Slow down and savour this stage. Spend a day, or at least half a day, in Pontevedra. Stay out late and watch the locals take their evening promenade. Enjoy a lazy morning coffee in Praza da Ferrería, visit the churches, and wander the maze of medieval streets; I always manage to get lost, but it’s part of the fun!

Today is wonderful. Santiago feels close now, but if ever there were a place for teddy bears to picnic, it could well be the woods between Redondela and Pontevedra.

Are You Walking The Portuguese Coastal Camino?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I know I’ll walk again. If you’re walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve created detailed daily walking guides packed with route tips, accommodation recommendations, and insights to help you along the way.

Here are some posts that may inspire and help you to plan your journey:

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