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History of the Camino de Santiago : Walking Through The Ages

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When I first decided to walk the Camino de Santiago, I knew very little about its history. I knew that a friend had walked 800 kilometres across Spain along a medieval pilgrimage route — but little more.

When I took my first steps, my knowledge of what was to unfold was still pretty limited. But you cannot walk this trail without being blown away by its history. Layer upon layer reveals itself as you progress towards Santiago.

Before long, you realise you’re following in the footsteps of not only medieval pilgrims, but of Charlemagne, Roman legions, ancient Celts and back to prehistoric travellers and some of the oldest human settlements ever found in Europe and even the world.

The history of the Camino de Santiago stretches far beyond what I ever imagined. Discovering those ancient roots set me on a path to learn as much as I could.  And if, like me, you love tales of ancient lands and timeless journeys, read on — and I’ll share a little potted history to help you on your way.

Pre-Christian History of the Trail

The Camino de Santiago has been walked by saints, kings, and even Hollywood film stars. But long before it became a Christian pilgrimage route, the paths through northern Spain were travelled by much older peoples.

Walking from Puente La Reina to Estella, just after Cirauqui, you’ll find yourself stepping onto ancient Roman cobblestones and crossing Roman bridges — relics of busy trade routes that once bustled with travellers and merchants over two thousand years ago. Although today, it’s pretty uncomfortable walking — most pilgrims happily drop down onto the smoother modern trail running alongside it!

If you’re on the Camino Portuguese, you’ll spend a good part of your journey walking along the old Roman R19 road, especially on the trails near Pontevedra. And if you’re heading toward A Guarda, you can visit one of the best-preserved Celtic Castros (hillforts) in Galicia!

Walking the Via de la Plata, history is quite literally scattered at your feet — Roman milestones lie abandoned in fields, casually ploughed around by farmers. In the museums of Salamanca and Cáceres, you’ll find collections brimming with Neolithic and Roman artifacts, a powerful reminder of the ancient people who once lived here.

But perhaps the most awe-inspiring history lies at Atapuerca on the Camino Frances. The archaeological site near Burgos shows evidence of human settlements dating back over 900,000 years. (And no, that’s not a typo!) You’ll walk close to the site, but if you’d like to visit properly, you’ll need to book through the Museum of Human Evolution in Burgos. Even if you can’t make it to the dig site itself, a visit to the museum is absolutely worth your time.

And after reaching Santiago de Compostela, many pilgrims continue their journey westward, following the footsteps of the Celts to the Atlantic coast at Cape Finisterre. Pilgrims gather there to watch the sunset, just as ancient peoples once did, believing it to be the place where the living came closest to the land of the dead.  It’s said the Celts followed the Milky Way — the Voie lactée — using the stars to guide their journey westward toward the setting sun.

I’ve hired a car from Santiago train station for a visit to Muxia and Fisterra but if you’d rather not drive you can either use a taxi (perfect if there is a group of you) or book the really popular day trip to the coast, which includes the Cape and a visit to the beach where I found my shell in 2013!

The Discovery, The First Pilgrim and The Origins of the Camino de Santiago

After the death of Christ, the Apostles scattered to spread the Gospel. James the Greater, son of Zebedee, travelled to the distant lands of Gallaecia (modern-day Galicia). Though he later returned to Palestine and was martyred around AD 44, legend says that his disciples carried his body back to Spain for burial.

History tells us that James lived and preached in what is now called Iria Flavia, a suburb of Padrón.
If you’re walking the Camino Portuguese, you’ll pass right through Iria Flavia on your way to Santiago! And the more modern Spiritual Variant is said to follow the route of the boat which carried his body.

Iria Flavia became an important Christian centre, home to as many as 28 bishops by the 6th century. Today, you can still visit the historic Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor de Iria Flavia, one of the oldest churches dedicated to Mary in Galicia.

In the early 9th century, a hermit named Pelayo reported seeing mysterious lights in a nearby forest. Bishop Teodomiro investigated and discovered a stone tomb containing three bodies — believed to be the Apostle James and his disciples.

Upon hearing the news, King Alfonso II, known as the first pilgrim, travelled from Oviedo to Santiago to verify the discovery. His route became what we now call the Camino Primitivo. When I first decided to walk this route, I assumed Primitivo meant primitive — but not at all! It’s a glorious route, and its name means first or original Way.

The site of the tomb became known as Campus Stellae — the Field of the Star — which later evolved into Compostela. 

The Tomb of St James

After the discovery of the Apostle James’s remains around 820 AD, King Alfonso II of Asturias commissioned a modest chapel to be built over the tomb. This structure was quickly replaced by a larger pre-Romanesque church under King Alfonso III in 899.

As the number of pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela grew, the need for a grander setting led to the construction of the current cathedral. Work began in 1075 under Alfonso VI, and the cathedral was consecrated in 1211. Since then, it has undergone many additions and restorations — including a major restoration in time for the Holy Year of 2020/2021.

Beneath the cathedral’s high altar lies the crypt containing the relics of St. James. You can visit, but be prepared for a long queue.

Over the years, I’ve seen the lines grow longer, and sadly, it no longer feels like the quiet, reflective space it once was. I now choose to visit in the very early morning or late at night, when the crowds have thinned and the atmosphere feels more peaceful again.

The remains are housed in a silver reliquary, crafted in the 19th century, enclosing a cedar box divided into compartments for the Apostle and his two disciples, Theodore and Athanasius.

The presence of three bodies in the original tomb aligns with tradition, which holds that after St. James’s martyrdom in Jerusalem, his disciples transported his body to Galicia, stayed to guard the tomb, and were eventually buried alongside him.

The Many Ways To Santiago

When most people talk about the Camino de Santiago, they’re usually thinking of the Camino Francés — the most famous and widely written about route. Shirley MacLaine chronicled her walk here in her book The Camino, and Martin Sheen made it even more iconic with his movie The Way.

But although many imagine the Camino as a single trail, there are actually many ways to reach Santiago de Compostela, crisscrossing Europe. In medieval times, without modern transport links, pilgrims traditionally started their journey from their front door, joining other travellers along the way.

From Western and Eastern Europe, pilgrims crossed Germany, Switzerland, and Italy, following ancient trails like the Jacobsweg.  In France, pilgrims often joined major routes through Le Puy, Vézelay, Tours, and Arles.

Many early pilgrims crossed into Spain at Somport Pass on the Aragones, visiting ancient monasteries such as Jaca on route.  Today’s more famous starting point of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port was a later addition.

Originally the safest route would have been along today’s Camino del Norte and Camino Primitivo.  The Camino Frances was developed later across the territories of Navarra and Leon. Monasteries, pilgrim hospitals, bridges and other important infrastructure was developed to protect pilgrims on their way to Santiago.

Within Spain, different routes followed the needs of the pilgrims:

Today, no matter which route you choose, you’re walking paths shaped by centuries of history — each one offering a very different pilgrim experience.

Some routes fell into disuse and disappeared, while others grew in prominence. The Camino Frances is a prime example: cities like Burgos and León flourished into the majestic centers they are today because of medieval pilgrimage.

The First Camino Guidebook

On my first Camino, I met a group of ladies just before the climb up to Alto de Perdón. They overheard us chatting about the Brierley Guide, and one lady turned back and said her group affectionately called him “Uncle John.”

I became firm friends with that lady — and the same could be said of my lasting love for the John Brierley Guides. But long before John, there was another guide that helped pilgrims find their way: the Codex Calixtinus.

Published around 1140, it served as the first pilgrimage guidebook for medieval travellers. The Codex detailed four routes starting in France, all converging at Puente la Reina in Spain — following what we now call the Aragonés Route, which joins the Camino Francés after the hermitage at Eunate.

The Codex was more than just a map; it offered medieval pilgrims advice on dangers to avoid, places to stay, and how to approach the holy shrine at Santiago. Today’s guidebooks still owe a great debt to this medieval masterpiece.

Thankfully, there are translated versions available today if you’re up for a fascinating read. You can also explore Dominic Laffi’s Camino diaries, or if you’re a fan of history, I highly recommend The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: The Complete Cultural Handbook by David M. Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davidson.

Take a deeper dive into the history of the Camino de Santiago

All three of these books offer a glorious, detailed look into the history of the rise and fall of the route to Santiago

The Scallop Shell

We were driving to Burgos when I watched so many hikers walking a trail beside our busy highway. I asked Gerry why? After all, Spain is such a glorious country — why walk along the side of the road. He called them “shellers” — but of course, they were pilgrims, walking the Camino Frances.

The scallop shell has become the symbol of the Camino de Santiago and two popular legends in some way explain its origin:

In medieval times, the shell wasn’t just a symbol — it had practical uses too. Pilgrims used it for drinking water or eating meals. These days, you might see the odd pilgrim using it to drink from the free wine fountain at Estella.

Originally, the shell also served as proof of completion rather than a symbol worn during the journey itself. But as unscrupulous tradesmen began selling shells to pilgrims as souvenirs, the Church introduced the Compostela to verify a completed pilgrimage.

Today, many pilgrims proudly wear the scallop shell on their backpacks — though traditionally, pilgrims wore the shell on their journey home from Santiago.

Whatever its history, the shell has become an enduring symbol of the Camino.  You’ll see it everywhere — carved into stones, painted on waymarkers, or mounted onto posts guiding pilgrims along the trail.

I once read that the design of the shell itself is symbolic: The lines represent different routes across Europe, all leading back to a single point — Santiago.  I liken it to rays of sunlight pointing to the centre.

My own shell isn’t even technically a scallop. But I found it on a beach near Fisterra after I decided I Was going to walk, and it’s the same shell that Gerry gave me a year later on the steps of the Cathedral in Santiago. And it’s the same shell I still carry with me on every Camino.

Top Tip : The scallop shell continues to inspire and connect pilgrims before they even reach Spain. Organizations like the American Pilgrims on the Camino (APOC) offer a blessing ceremony before departure, where pilgrims are given a shell to carry on their journey.

The History Of Pilgrim Accommodation

Medieval pilgrims found refuge in hospitals — a term that originally meant a place for travellers, not the sick.  The word “hospital” comes from the Latin hospes, meaning guest or stranger. It’s the root of words like hospice, hostel, hotel, and hospitality.

The daily needs of pilgrims were met by a series of hospitals, many of which still echo in place names like Hospital de Órbigo on the Camino Francés. These medieval hospitals were often staffed by monastic orders and placed under royal protection to ensure the safety of pilgrims.

One famous example is the Convento de San Antón after Hornillos, founded in the 12th century. Today, many pilgrims walk under its famous arches without pausing, but this site once served as a refuge for those suffering from St. Anthony’s Fire (ergot poisoning). Although the true cause of the disease wouldn’t be understood until the 1850s, the Antonine monks became renowned for their care and treatments.

Today, modern pilgrims can stay in a wide range of accommodation — from simple albergues and rustic donativos to luxurious paradores. Local pilgrim associations continue to assist and support pilgrims, and on some of the lesser-known routes, it’s still possible to find a bed in the local fire or police station!

Top Tip: Donativo does not mean free! There are many albergues run by volunteers who offer beds and meals to those who cannot afford to pay. But those who can pay should always contribute the normal rate for a bed and a meal, to honour the spirit of gratitude and mutual support along the Camino.

The History of the Credencial del Peregrino

When we were in Valletta, our guide on a walking tour explained the history of the Knights of Malta. Part of this referenced the letter of safe conduct — a document that, on the Camino de Santiago, would evolve into what we now know as the Credencial more commonly called the Pilgrim Passport.

In modern times, the Credencial is the official document that records your journey along your chosen route. Without your Credencial — and without collecting two stamps per day — you will not be granted your Compostela upon arriving in Santiago.

If you wish to stay in pilgrim accommodation, you’ll need to present your Credencial along with your ID or passport.  Your details are recorded, and your Credencial is stamped at each albergue, hostel, or other stop.

The Compostela – Recognition of Your Pilgrimage

From its earliest days, there was a desire for the completion of a pilgrimage to be recognised.
Originally, pilgrims used the scallop shell as a symbol of their arrival — but it was easily copied.

By the 13th century, more formal documents called “evidential letters” were issued and these are at the root of the modern Compostela. The text of the Compostela is still written in Latin, and it’s tradition for the Pilgrim’s Office to also Latinise your name. So don’t worry if your name looks a little strange — it’s part of the tradition!

For many modern pilgrims, the Compostela continues to hold deep significance and meaning.
As I sit here writing, I can see more than a dozen Compostela beside me — not all in my name, as some were issued Vicarie Pro.

Top Tip : Vicarie Pro translates from latin to “on behalf of” or “instead of”.  This is often done by pilgrims walking for someone ill, deceased, or unable to make the journey themselves.

The Mythical History of Santiago Matamoros: The Warrior Saint

Many of us walk the Camino to escape the noise of news and politics — but for medieval pilgrims, there was little escape. Beyond religious devotion, the pilgrimage carried an underlying political purpose, particularly in the resistance against Moorish advances.

The Camino has always been wrapped in legend: stars guiding shepherds, miraculous storms, magical seashells. And along every route, you’ll find more local stories of magic and mystery.

Modern communication like Facebook and 24-hour news channels — keeps us instantly informed. But medieval news travelled slowly, and it’s entirely possible that some truths were lost or transformed along the way. Whether or not every story is factually accurate, they create a sense of wonder that still endures to this day.

The legend of Santiago Matamoros — Saint James the Moor-Slayer — is one such story and offers a fascinating (and complex) chapter in the history of the Camino de Santiago. While Saint James is often thought of today as a peaceful pilgrim, medieval Spain envisioned him very differently.

According to legend, in 844 AD, Christian forces were on the brink of defeat at the Battle of Clavijo. In a dream, Saint James promised the king victory.  The next day, the apostle miraculously appeared on a white horse, sword in hand, and led the Christian army to a bloody triumph against the Moors.

This image of Santiago Matamoros became a rallying symbol during the centuries of the Reconquista, as Christian kingdoms fought to reclaim the Iberian Peninsula.  Historians today believe the battle was more legendary than historical, but Santiago Matamoros remains a powerful symbol of Spain’s layered and sometimes painful history.

Another famous legendary figure took on similar status although much later.  El Cid rose to prominence in the 11th century, and his famous castle can still be found on the Camino Levente.  Immortalised by Charlton Heston in the Hollywood epic, and celebrated in Spanish lore, both became incredibly powerful figures in Spain’s reconquest history.

Today, alongside more peaceful depictions of Saint James, you’ll still see statues and paintings of him as a knight on horseback.

Notable places where you can spot these images along the Camino include:

While the history is fascinating, I have to admit I prefer to see Saint James as the humble pilgrim — but the deeper, more complex stories add a rich layer that can’t be ignored.

The Golden Age & Decline Of Medieval Pilgrimage

In the 12th and 13th centuries, pilgrimage to Santiago boomed. Some historians estimate that at its peak, 10% of Europe’s population was either on a pilgrimage or returning from it.  If we think today’s Camino is busy, spare a thought for those walking back then — I often wonder what the race for beds must have been like in the 1300s!

And while we worry today about cows, dogs, and bedbugs, medieval pilgrims faced far greater dangers: bandits, disease, and wild terrain. Dominic Laffi, wrote in his pilgrimage account of crossing the Ibañeta Pass to Roncesvalles, how pilgrims knelt and looked back toward France, wondering if they would ever see it again.

And yet pilgrims walked as the reward of spiritual salvation — and the thrill of adventure — drew people in their hundreds of thousands.

The Camino Frances was considered the jewel in the crown and was often called a “ribbon of gold” for the wealth it delivered. Kings and queens travelled to Santiago as did saints. Artisans moved from the corners of the known world to help build the cathedrals of León and Burgos and pilgrims journeyed thousands of miles just to glimpse the tomb of a saint.

However, from the 14th century onward, pilgrimage began to fall out of favour. After the Reconquest, there was no longer the same urgency. Religious wars, the rise of Protestantism and the Reformation, and the spread of the Black Death all contributed to the decline.

Little by little, the routes fell into disrepair and were forgotten, with just a handful of pilgrims arriving each year. The Golden Age of pilgrimage was over — or perhaps, simply sleeping.

The Camino de Santiago Today

A few years ago, I watched a YouTube clip from 1963 showing three clergy from Estella. They filmed their pilgrimage in an effort to create a resurgence of interest in the Camino. However, it wasn’t until the 1980s that the real revival began.

Father Elias Valiña, parish priest of O Cebreiro — often called the Father of the Modern Pilgrimage — worked tirelessly to bring about a new golden age for the Camino. It was his work, marking the route with yellow arrows using free municipal council paint, that became responsible for the now iconic Camino waymarks.

He sadly died a few years ago, but he would surely be proud of the immense success his efforts helped create.

Today, as much as ever, the Camino draws pilgrims of all ages and backgrounds — walking for faith, healing, or simply for the adventure of a lifetime.

Why the Camino’s History & Origins Still Matter Today

We have walked around the world. Often, it’s a trail that leads us to a new destination.

We’ve walked into the volcanoes of Java, the biblical lands of Jordan, the empire of the Incas in Peru, and the sacred trails of the Kumano Kodo in Japan. And yet, no matter where we walk, it is the Camino — and the ancient trails of Spain — that keep calling us back.

I adore history, both in Spain and globally. Every time I walk, I learn something new. But there is something different about the Camino. Maybe it’s because it was my first pilgrimage? Maybe because walking this trail changed my life? Or maybe the immense history of this land really has left a footprint for us all to follow?

The Camino de Santiago changed the course of European history and helped shape the nations we now call home. But its history is even older — as ancient as time itself. You’re walking in the sted of the earliest humans, the celts, iron age man.  You are walking on Roman roads, medieval paths, and trails marked by centuries of devotion.  Knowing this means the journey becomes so much more than just a walk.

Regardless of your reason for walking, this history is important. And it is this history that will, for sure, shape part of your own Camino journey too.

Are You Ready to Walk in Those Ancient Footsteps?

Maybe when you found this post you had an idea about the history of the Camino de Santiago and, perhaps like me, that knowledge was only skin deep. If you’re reading this still, then you’ve hopefully learned a great deal more about the legends and history and stories that have shaped the lands of Spain long before the modern revival of pilgrimage.

For me, the Camino de Santiago isn’t just a journey across Spain — it’s a living history lesson.  Every day, on every stage, there is something new to see or to learn. 

If you are about to embark on your own journey, then do, as you walk, consider the thousands that have gone before.  Imagine their stories and maybe one day, a thousand years from now, someone will remember yours.

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