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San Juan De Ortega To Burgos : Step By Step Guide To Stage 12 Of The Camino Frances

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Welcome to Stage 12 of the Camino Frances! Today, you’ll walk from the forests of San Juan de Ortega to the amazing city of Burgos; famous for its stunning 13th-century UNESCO-listed cathedral.

Before Burgos, there’s the challenge of the Alto de Atapuerca hills and a choice of whether to follow the traditional Camino or opt for the more scenic river route into the city.

Personally, I think it’s just shy of 27 km; especially if you choose the slightly longer river route.  Either way, it is a longer day with some elevation, but your legs are stronger, and the rewards are worth it.  

Keep reading and I’ll help you navigate the river route, recommend a couple of great rest stops, and give my tip on the best way to enter Burgos’ historic centre.   Book your bed ahead of time and enjoy this fabulously historic walk; I’ll also recommend my favourite places to stay!

Walking the Camino Frances from San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

Today’s route takes you from forest trails to a variety of different terrains, including quiet country  roads, small villages, and a more rugged stretch over the Alto de Atapuerca. And you’ll be walking through some of Europe’s most significant archaeological areas with one of the earliest human settlements ever found.

Choosing the river route means walking by Burgos airport but then along the River Arlanzón, through urban parks and green spaces; a nicer alternative to the industrial outskirts of the traditional route.

Entering the city through the ancient Arco de Santa María should be a moment to savour; and you really must walk through this way. Standing in front of the awe-inspiring cathedral was a great moment for me and I still get a buzz walking through this arch a decade later.

Reaching Burgos is an incredible achievement; almost 300 kilometres from St Jean Pied from Port and that’s worth celebrating!

Towns and Villages Between San Juan de Ortega and Burgos

On paper, it seems like there are plenty of places for refreshments today, and during the busy pilgrim season, I think there are. However, by late October, several places were closed; that said, not all of them. We still found shelter from a heavy downpour in Atapuerca and a great little lunch spot in Cardeñuela-Ríopico

There are also options for overnight stays for those who prefer shorter walking days or to stay between stages.

San Juan de Ortega

San Juan de Ortega is named after the 12th-century saint who dedicated his life to aiding pilgrims. While there are a few options for sleeping here, breakfast choices in town are limited. If your albergue offers breakfast, I recommend taking advantage.

We stayed at Rural La Henera. While breakfast wasn’t offered, there was a coffee machine in the lounge; don’t forget to have a euro coin handy.

Leaving town, wander down the main street (it’s also the only street), pass the church and monastery and turn off to the right into the forest. I’ve read reports about confusing arrows so remember that you need to turn right off the road and into the forest.

Top Tip : There is a variant route that leads to Castanares; it bypasses much of what makes this stage special and offers little more than a dull walk beside a busy road. Take the turn into the forest!

The forest opens up after a short distance and the views are amazing.  You’re at close to 1000m above sea level and Burgos and the Meseta beyond will be in your sights.

Ages (3.7 km)

I have such fond memories of our little coffee stop in Agés in 2014. As we settled, friends we’d made over the previous days began arriving. The table grew as we pulled up more chairs, greeting friends as they passed. We shared tales of blisters and communal meals and made plans to meet in Burgos; it genuinely felt like we were part of a community.

Agés is a tiny village with a history dating back to at least the 10th century, first recorded in 944. The village church is worth a quick visit if you have time; King García Sánchez III of Navarre was buried here after his death at the Battle of Atapuerca in 1054.

This pretty little village offers a few places to pause or spend the night. The municipal albergue doesn’t get the best of reviews but there is also :

As you leave, notice the traditional Castilian architecture of timber-framed, adobe houses (made with earth and straw). These remind me of the old houses where I was born in Devon, UK, though many of these homes here have incredible murals that fill entire walls.

From here until Atapuerca you’ll have times walking along the road; do keep an eye out for passing traffic. And you’ll cross an old stone bridge over the River Vena, said to have been built by none other than San Juan de Ortega himself.

Atapuerca (2.6 km)

Atapuerca is incredible. Every time I walk here, I try to imagine the countless people who have crossed these hills above the village for hundreds of thousands of years.

The significance of Atapuerca lies in its role in understanding early human life. It wasn’t a village as such in the modern sense but a series of caves that were repeatedly inhabited over hundreds of thousands of years. These caves hold one of the most complete records of human evolution in Europe.

Discovered during railway construction in the 19th century, systematic archaeological excavations began in the 1970s. In the Sima de los Huesos (“Pit of Bones”), researchers found over 1,600 fossils, making it one of the richest sources of Middle Pleistocene human remains. Some of these fossils date back nearly 1.2 million years, including 800,000 year old remains of Homo antecessor, an early hominin that may be an ancestor of both Neanderthals and modern humans.

The caves offer incredible insights into early human behaviour, including the use of tools, diet, and possible rituals. Of course, today Atapuerca is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and you can tour the caves with a guide.  There is also an excellent modern Museum of Human Evolution in Burgos too. Reservations are essential, so do plan ahead! 

I’ve stayed overnight in Atapuerca after walking from Villafranca.  It’s a good option if you wish shorten the walk into Burgos and allows time to visit the archaeological site. There are a few options for accommodation as well as bars and restaurants, making it a good place for a pause too.

Alto de Atapuerca (2.3kms)

The climb to the Alto de Atapuerca isn’t too demanding, but the rocky terrain can be tricky, especially after rain. Near the summit, you’ll find a large cross and a little further along, a labyrinth; a walkable circular path that is said to be for reflection, with no wrong turns.

I’ve walked the labyrinth; it’s a spiritual experience, lose yourself in the circle and your thoughts.  But leave a few minutes, it doesn’t look so big but its spiral takes longer than you think.

From the summit, you’ll begin the descent and for the most part, the rest of your journey to Burgos is relatively flat.

Tip Tip : When I walked in October 2024, a large sign advised pilgrims to bypass Villalval for safety. The suggested path on the right bypasses the village and re-joins the trail just a little beyond the village.  However, there are also arrows guiding you to the left into Villalval; a route I’ve walked in previous years and didn’t feel it unsafe; but this could have changed.

Villalval (1.9 km)

If you take the left route (as mentioned above), you’ll pass through the tiny hamlet of Villalval. There’s not much here except a water fountain.

Top Tip : The right variant route dropped us ahead of Villalval on the main road. Since there are services ahead, we didn’t feel the need to backtrack.

Cardeñuela-Ríopico (1.6 km)

A couple of maps suggest that the variant above, bypasses Cardeñuela entirely, but we followed the arrows into town and were very glad we did. We stopped for lunch at the very lovely Albergue Santa Fe.

As usual, the first bar in town tends to attract the most traffic. You’ll pass the Bocatería Café and Albergue as you enter; it’s a welcome break and I’ve stopped here.  But keep walking and when you reach the church, take a left and treat yourself to drinks and a meal at Santa Fe.  (p.s. this was where the locals headed too!)

Orbaneja-Ríopico (2.2 km)

Leaving Cardeñuela, you’ll quickly arrive in its neighbouring village, Orbaneja-Ríopico. You will have been walking along the road for a while, so stay alert for passing traffic, especially while navigating through the village.

As you leave Orbaneja, you’ll cross a motorway bridge and soon after, you’ll face an important decision: follow the traditional Camino route or opt for the River Variant.

Choosing Your Route: Traditional Camino Or River Variant?

I won’t try to sway your decision too much, but personally, I recommend the River Route.

Top Tip: Many pilgrims say they miss the turning for the variant, as the markings can be unclear. Take a close look at the photo above; when you see this residential area watch the ground for yellow arrows.

The route isn’t always marked consistently, so having an app like Wise Pilgrim is invaluable to ensure you stay on the trail.  I have never felt this section too difficult to navigate.

You’ll start with an easy walk alongside the fence of Burgos Airport. While this section is more functional than scenic, it’s a relief to be off the road, and the trail is easy underfoot.

Castañares (4.7 km)

The river route brings you out into Castañares, a suburb on a very busy road. While there is a accommodation here, I always push on to Burgos. There are also a couple of bars if you need refreshments, but with almost 7 kilometres still to go, I usually prefer to keep walking. 

Top Tip : Do bear in mind that whilst it feels like you’re in the city you still have a lot of walking to do!  Keep some energy in reserve for the last push into Burgos.

As you enter Castanares from the airport trail, you’ll cross a busy main road, pass a tiny children’s park, weave through a short street, beside a factory, and cross a bridge over the river.

Tip Tip :Keep an eye out for arrows,  It’s been said that some business owners try to entice you to take the road route into the city by changing the arrows.  Don’t follow them. Stick to the river path.

As you continue, the unkempt trail becomes an urban green space and then a well-maintained, large urban park. While arrows and markers aren’t abundant here, the route is straightforward; just continue straight and keep the river on your right.

I’ve included a selection of photos, in the correct order to give you an idea of the terrain. 

Top Tip: The arrows may tempt you to turn off the river trail early, leading you through a residential area on the right-hand side of the river. While it’s not unpleasant, the pavements are uneven due to tree roots and can be hazardous. Stay where you are and continue until you reach the Museum of Human Evolution. Trust me, this is the best way to enter Burgos!

Burgos (7.1 km)

Congratulations; you’ve reached the heart of the old city.

Yeah! You’ve reached the heart of Burgos‘ old town!

The Arco de Santo María, originally constructed in the 14th century as part of the city’s defensive walls, now serves as a gateway to the historic centre of Burgos. Passing through it, you’ll find yourself in the Plaza del Rey San Fernando, with the breathtaking Cathedral of Burgos; a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Burgos, steeped in history, is a city that has welcomed pilgrims for a thousand years. The magnificent Gothic cathedral is a highlight, but there are also museums and charming streets to explore. Many pilgrims choose to spend two nights here to rest and fully enjoy the city’s cultural and historical treasures.

Where to Stay in Burgos

Burgos offers a wide range of accommodation with options to suit every budget. While I’ve stayed in the city several times, I haven’t stayed in an albergue, so my personal recommendations focus on hotels. I usually opt for more than one night and prefer to stay close to the Cathedral.

Here are hotels I’ve stayed in and would happily recommend:

Potential Problems Between San Juan de Ortega and Burgos

Today’s stage is relatively straightforward, but there are a few potential pitfalls to be mindful of:

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Francés Between San Juan de Ortega and Burgos

Like many days on the Camino, today is a mixed bag. There’s a bit of road walking, the distraction of urban arrows and traffic, and functional areas like the airport. But there’s also the incredible history of Atapuerca, the beautiful urban park along the river, and, of course, the reward of arriving in Burgos.

This stage captures the essence of the Camino Frances in a single day. It blends historical landmarks, glorious landscapes, and the hustle and bustle of Spanish urban life.

Today is another great day. Find your rhythm, savour the moments; even the ones you don’t enjoy! And celebrate your arrival in Burgos.

I was happy. You will be too. This was no longer just a walk and I was a pilgrim.

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail eight times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily guides for each stage of the journey that you may find useful.