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Hornillos Del Camino to Castrojeriz: Step by Step Guide to Stage 14 of the Camino Frances
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Stage 14, from Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz, takes you into the heart of Spain’s Meseta; a 20-kilometre journey of expansive landscapes, fascinating history and a few little corners to explore.
Hornillos del Camino has limited services, so plan ahead and grab a coffee and breakfast at your albergue before setting off. There aren’t too many services today but keep reading as I know a couple of wonderful options and a great place for a picnic.
While the open terrain is glorious, it’s also exposed; I’ve walked this stage in full sun and in a downpour, so hope for fine weather and come prepared. With a manageable distance underfoot, today reminds us that the Camino is as much about the journey as the destination.
Walking The Camino Frances From Hornillos Del Camino To Castrojeriz
The trail today begins on a simple gravel track to Hontanas. Then, a short path skirting the edges of fields before merging onto the road leading to Castrojeriz. It’s a quiet road but be warned; it can feel like it goes on forever.
The terrain is predominantly flat with little elevation, making it an easy day underfoot; perfect for losing yourself in your thoughts. Of course, this is the Meseta and as you walk the horizon stretches out and the distant mountains from yesterday’s walk from Burgos are left behind.
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Towns and Villages Between Hornillos del Camino and Castrojeriz
Whilst today is easy underfoot, there are not a lot of options for stops and services. Be prepared for longer stretches and carry plenty of water.
Hornillos del Camino
If you’ve read my guide to Stage 13 about Hornillos del Camino, you’ll know that it’s a tiny village with a big history. Once settled by Romans and Visigoths, and later an important stopping point on the medieval Camino de Santiago, little remains today of its illustrious past.
Be aware though, Hornillos has limited services, so it’s worth coming prepared. Consider stocking up on a few essentials whilst in Burgos. Alternatively, the small village shop can provide a few basics; when it’s open. And if your albergue offers breakfast, say yes; your next real opportunity for food is in Hontanas, 10 kilometres away.
Top Tip: If you’ve heard about the much-loved bar Origen, sadly it’s no longer open. While new owners may reopen it in the future, this little cafe is currently gone.
Leaving the village, the Camino quickly takes you onto a gravel path. For me, the crunch, crunch, crunch is the soundtrack of the Camino. Ask any pilgrim, and they’ll know exactly what I mean.
The trail is well-marked today, but don’t forget to look back and take in the views. It’s easy to get lost in the rhythm of walking and forget to appreciate the beauty of the Meseta.
After almost six kilometres, you’ll reach an option to visit the tiny albergue of San Bol.
Top Tip: Please, please, please resist the urge to play loud music from your phone while walking. The quiet nature of the Meseta is one of its greatest joys.
Arroyo San Bol (5.9 km)
Just under six kilometres from Hornillos del Camino lies the tiny albergue of San Bol, just off the main path. Look for a sign that directs you to turn left and walk about 200 metres to reach the albergue.
San Bol is no-frills and unassuming and offers a more traditional pilgrim experience. If you’re looking for something simple, a place to rest and reflect, this could be for you. There is a natural spring here, historically believed to possess healing properties. I can’t vouch for the healing, but it’s very refreshing on a hot day.
This albergue operates on the principle of shared living, communal dinners and bringing pilgrims together to share stories. Bunks can be reserved in advance, but it’s not always open, so check ahead if you’re planning to stay.
When I stopped here, we received a warm welcome and a good cup of coffee. But if you choose not to stop, the trail continues onward, much like before, almost five kilometres on to Hontanas.
It can feel like the village will never appear but chin up! Hontanas is in a valley and often remains hidden so don’t despair; it could be closer than you think.
Font De Sidres (3.4 km)
I have read that around 1.5 kilometres from the centre of Hontanas is a new albergue; the Font de Sidres. It’s an eco albergue but super modern and over this last year has received very good reviews. I’ve not stayed but I’ll be passing in May 2025 so I’ll take a look!
In the meantime, this very new albergue is a welcome addition along this stretch of the road.
Hontanas (1.4 km)
Hontanas doesn’t appear until you’re practically there; it’s hidden in a valley, making its arrival a welcome surprise. The village offers plenty of services, including great albergues, cafes, and a small grocery store, making it a perfect stop for pilgrims.
At the entrance on your right, you’ll find the Hermitage of San Vicente, a small remnant of a medieval church. While you might be thirsty and eager for a break, it’s worth spending a few minutes to explore.
Hontanas’s history stretches back to prehistoric times, with archaeological evidence of human settlement from the Neolithic period. Its name comes from the numerous natural springs (fontanas), which provided vital water for early inhabitants. The geology and undulating terrain of the Meseta channels groundwater into springs, which still flow today.
The village flourished during the golden age of pilgrimage in the Middle Ages and remains a key stop on the way to Santiago de Compostela. I still remember my first visit in 2014, walking through the village in search of coffee and being greeted by familiar faces; it’s a great feeling to be part of this community of pilgrims!
Hontanas has several wonderful options for overnight stays and perfect for shorter stays, or for those happy to walk from Burgos including these :
As you leave town, the arrows take you by the 14th Century Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción, a modest but very pretty church which is often open and pilgrims are welcome.
Leaving Hontanas you’ll walk along soft trails for a few kilometres, en route passing the remains of an old Medieval church. If you’re interested in history, there was a great thread on the Camino Forum about the origins of this tower.
After leaving Hontanas, the trail eventually drops out onto a road, which you’ll follow all the way to Castrojeriz.
On my very first Camino, I noticed a red scarf lying on the trail here, just before the road. It had obviously fallen from someone’s pack. I saw it but was so focused on my stride and reaching my destination for a bed, that I ignored it.
Later, as we walked along the road to Castrojeriz, another pilgrim came trotting up, asking if anyone had lost a scarf. As it turned out, it belonged to a Canadian lady; a new friend I’d made on the trail. (I called her Canada and she called me England as we were both rubbish at remembering names).
That little moment has always stuck with me. I should have picked up the scarf. I should have paused, taken a moment and helped a friend. It taught me an important lesson about the Camino: it’s not just about the journey or the next bed; it’s about the community and helping one another along the way.
Even now, as I write this, I feel a tinge of shame for stepping over that scarf.
Convento de San Antón (5.8 km)
The monastery’s arches span the Camino; you have to walk under it to walk on. I often see pilgrims walk by the ruins of the Convento de San Anton without stopping to investigate. This is a great shame as there is so much history here.
Top Tip : There’s a perfect little wall, beside the ruins, where you can sit for a boots off and a snack.
The Convento de San Antón, founded in the 12th century by Alfonso VII, is a glorious little spot. Managed by the Antonine monks, it became a refuge for pilgrims suffering from St. Anthony’s Fire, a debilitating illness for medieval pilgrims, caused by toxic rye fungus.
While the source of ergot poisoning wouldn’t be identified until the 1850s, the monks here became renowned for their treatments, offering clean diets and soothing ointments. Those arches that we now walk under, offered healing and hope to countless pilgrims in the middle ages
So, as you walk under, take a moment to consider the monumental history of this glorious little corner of the Camino.
There is an albergue here, though very simple and without modern comforts like electricity or Wi-Fi, it does offer a special experience. Those who stay say that sleeping here, within the ruins, was a magical gift and a rare opportunity to connect with something ancient.
Castrojeriz (3.7 km)
From the arch of San Antón, the hilltop castle of Castrojeriz comes into view. The hill has been fortified since Celtiberian times. The Romans used it as a strategic outpost, the Visogoths called it Castrum Sigerici. And in 912 during the Reconquest, it was reclaimed and became part of the repopulation efforts in the region.
By the Middle Ages, Castrojeriz flourished as a commercial hub on the Camino, drawing merchants and pilgrims alike. At its height, the town’s elongated main street boasted seven pilgrim hospices and five churches, reflecting its role as a significant stop on the route to Santiago.
Today, Castrojeriz still offers lots of services to modern pilgrims. There’s pleny to see and explore here, including the castle ruins and notable churches, including the Iglesia de San Juan and the Iglesia de Santo Domingo.
If you’re a history lover, and would like to know more about the town I recommend The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago by David Gitlitz; it’s a treasure trove of details for the entire Camino Frances.
Where to Stay in Castrojeriz
There are many wonderful places to stay here, so many, that I’m often spoiled for choice. Of all the options, these are the places I know and would recommend :
Potential Challenges Between Hornillos del Camino and Castrojeriz
While this stage is relatively flat and manageable, there are a still a couple of challenges to keep in mind. As always, the weather is the biggest consideration:
Recommended Apps, Books And Websites
When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :
Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.
My Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Hornillos del Camino and Castrojeriz
Although I’ve walked this trail many times, writing these guides has reminded me why I love the Camino so much; the history, the people, and the simple joy of walking.
Stage 14, from Hornillos to Castrojeriz, perfectly captures the essence of the Camino Frances. There’s so much history to uncover and so many places to pause and explore. Whilst limited, there are a couple of wonderful towns, which continue to welcome pilgrims. And the long easy trails offer an opportunity to lose yourself in your own thoughts.
If anyone tells you to skip the Meseta, don’t listen. The vast, open skies, distant horizons, and deep historical roots of this region are glorious. Walk with strangers, make new friends, and, if you see a scarf on the trail, pick it up.
Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.
Are You Walking The Camino Frances?
I’ve walked this glorious trail eight times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily guides for each stage of the journey that you may find useful.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance. None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.
I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.
TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.
Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.
Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.
Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.
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Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!