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Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis : Step By Step Guide to Stage 12 of the Camino Portuguese Coastal

(And Stage 10 Of The Camino Portuguese Central)

Created by Colleen | Updated : 24 January 2025 | , ,

Before sitting down to write this stage guide, I’d almost forgotten how many times I’ve walked from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis; and how much I’ve enjoyed it.

Usually, when I think of these final days on the Camino Portuguese, my thoughts return to the forests from yesterday; so I’m grateful for the reminder of how special this day is.  I’ve walked this path in all seasons.  I’ve walked alone, with friends, with Gerry, and leading groups and there’s a common theme running through all my journals; today is a day of reflection.

It’s an easy walk, wandering through corridors of green. Stone walls, often moss-covered, line the path and if you pause and look closely, you might imagine a tiny, secret world for elves and fairies hidden within them. There’s a hill, of course.  This is Galicia, there’s always a hill.

And you’ll notice the route feels busier. It always does. You’ll rub shoulders with locals walking out of Pontevedra, and join the steady rhythm of pilgrims all now following that same path to Santiago. But today pilgrims leave the trail too and follow the route of the Spiritual Variante. 

The walk to Caldas de Reis is a gentle day, easy trails, clear markers and a few nice coffee stops. Keep reading, and I’ll share what I’ve learned and who knows; maybe you’ll lose yourself in your thoughts too.

pilgrim shells hanging on a chain fence, around an old cross on the trail

Route Overview: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis (23.2 km)

At 23.2 kilometres, today stage offers a relatively easy walk, especially if the weather has been kind. The trail is well-marked, even at the split where some pilgrims choose to take the Variante Espiritual. But our guide is staying on the traditional Camino, so stay on the main path unless you’ve planned the detour.

Towns and villages are nicely spaced, and while cafes aren’t abundant, there are just enough; and I know of a perfect spot for a late lunch just before Caldas.

The trail itself is a mix of tarmac and soft tracks, making for generally good walking; plenty of crunch, crunch, crunch underfoot. That said, if it’s been raining heavily, some sections can get waterlogged, so I’d recommend carrying a spare pair of socks just in case!

There’s an option to divert off to the Río Barosa Falls. They’re often praised but maybe timing is everything. When we visited in November, there was no water and it felt a bit of a letdown for the extra kilometre.

There’s still plenty of history along this way and parts of the trail follow remnants of the Roman road. And whilst the scenery might not have the same wow’s as earlier days, there’s a gentle charm that makes today just right; for some reason I just want to sing Easy like a Sunday Morning.

  • Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis Distance : 23.2 km
  • Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis Elevation gain : 197 m | Elevation loss : 190 m
map for Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis stage of the Camino Portuguese
Elevation profile for Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis stage of the Camino Portuguese

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Towns and Villages Between Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis

This list feels like a lot of towns and villages, but they’re generally small or just a collection of houses or you skirt around without really going in.  But they are there and the coffee stops too.

Pontevedra

Before leaving Pontevedra, make sure to have breakfast; it’ll be a few kilometres before you find a coffee shop once out of the city. If your accommodation doesn’t provide breakfast, or if you’d prefer to skip the €22 Parador breakfast, there will be options in Pontevedra.

My favourite is Cafeteria De Ruas, tucked away in the old town at Praza da Verdura 14. It’s often busy with locals, and the square itself is wonderful at anytime of day.

The arrows are easy to spot too as you leave; but only if your accommodation happens to be on the trail. If not, head back to the Igrexa da Virxe Peregrina, where you’ll find arrows that lead you out of town. And if in doubt, you’ll cross the Ponte de Burgo over the Río Lérez to exit Pontevedra; and you’ll find arrows on the bridge.

In the suburbs it can feel like half the population is out walking, especially at the weekends. One Sunday I exchanged smiles with morning strollers, joggers and cyclists and a dad jogging whilst pushing his young son along on a tiny bike.  So many greetings, so many Buen Caminos.

The path out of Pontevedra takes you from city to suburb and onto quieter country roads, walking between houses and stone walls.  Always keep in mind though that these are roads and not trails.  They can be narrow in places and without pavements, so pay attention to vehicles coming from both directions

The houses eventually give way to open countryside but you’ll continue along what feels like the same small road until you reach the point where the trail splits; are you continuing on toward Caldas de Reis or diverting onto the Spiritual Variante.

leaving pontevedra, across the bridge at sunrise with the sky reflected in the still river

Pontecabras : The Spiritual Variante (3.4 km)

I’ve walked the Spiritual Variante, and it’s glorious. But it will add a day or two to your schedule. Gerry and I once turned left here, heading to Combarro via the old monastery at Poio.  If this is the route you’ve chosen, it’s time to leave the Via Romana XIX; Gerry’s R19.

However, for this guide, we’re sticking to the traditional Camino to Santiago de Compostela and heading to Caldas de Reis. At the junction where the Variante splits, make sure to go right, following the yellow arrows under the railway bridge.

Top Tip: These two paths do not meet again until Padrón, so don’t be tempted to take this thinking it’s just a short detour. If you’re heading to Caldas de Reis, stick to the yellow arrows and turn right.

Once under the bridge, the arrows will lead you up. The ascent is gentle and spread over a long distance, so while it’s a climb, it’s unlikely to trouble you.

markers for the Spiritual Variante on the Camino Portuguese

Igrexa de Santa María de Alba

About 700 metres from the turning, you’ll pass the Igrexa de Santa María de Alba. At first glance, it may seem like just another church along the Camino, but you may wish to take a little detour here and go treasure hunting

While much of the current structure dates to the 18th century, its history stretches back to the Middle Ages. On the north side of the church, near the bell tower, you’ll find an epigraph carved into a single stone, which hints at a more ancient past.

The inscription mentions Diego, Bishop of Compostela, and an abbot named Peter. Scholars debate its exact meaning, with some suggesting it could date as far back as the 10th century. Either way, it’s an intriguing find and worth a minute or two exploring.

Just beyond the church you’ll also find the Cruceiro de Santa María de Alba, one of the many Galician stone crosses. These cruceiros are often found at crossroads, churchyards, or other prominent locations. They act as markers of faith, offering protection to travellers and serving as waypoints; perhaps the Middle Ages version of our yellow arrows.

inside of a small church on the camino

San Caetano (1.7 km)

The tiny village of San Caetano is named after Saint Cajetan, the patron saint of job seekers and gamblers! There’s a small chapel here, likely built after 1671, the year of his canonization.

I’ve always been curious about the saints we encounter along the Camino, so I looked up his story. San Caetano, an Italian Catholic priest, became known as a sort of “holy gambler.” He offered spiritual wagers; if his advice proved correct, the congregation would light a candle and if not, he would.

As you leave the village, you might spot a small house on the corner with a vending machine and a toilet for pilgrims. It’s a handy stop, but don’t forget to carry a euro if you wish to spend a penny.

Continuing on, the trail stays on a quiet country road. Look out as you pass a picnic area; you’ll find a Miliario Magno Magnencio; a Roman milestone, likely dating back to around 350 AD. Sadly this one is a replica, the original is preserved in the Museo de Pontevedra.

From here the trail continues; sometimes tarmac and sometimes forest trails. It’s a pretty, with stone footbridges and, if you’re lucky, the occasional horse rider passing by; and there’ll also be cyclists.

green galicia pontevedra

San Amaro (4.3 km)

Finally, a village with services and a chance to take a break. There are two good options for a stop here, though both can be busy.

  • A Pousada do Peregrino : This is the first stop you’ll come across, and it’s understandably popular, with options for a bite to eat or a quick rest. If it’s too crowded, or the queue is too long and there are not seats there is another option just ahead.
  • Mesón Don Pulpo : A nice little bar that’s perhaps less pilgrim-focused but equally busy and always full of pilgrims too; the queue for the loo can be long!

Top Tip : Just across the road from Mesón Don Pulpo, and easy to miss if you’re not looking, is the tiny Capilla de San Amaro de Barro.  It’s sometimes open if you want to have a look inside one of these tiny chapels.

As you leave the village, follow the arrows onto the road. The path occasionally diverts to quieter trails, keeping you off the tarmac. While it may be tempting to stick to the road, spare a thought for the drivers and follow the arrows.

Along the way, you’ll pass traditional Galician stone houses and hórreos; the elevated grain stores that are iconic in this region. Historically, they protected grain from pests and damp and oddly enough, we saw very similar stores during our trip to Ha Giang in northern Vietnam. Our guide was Galician and agreed about the resemblance. I wonder which one influenced the other?

camino marker amongst spring flowers on the trail

Crunch, Crunch, Crunch

A few years ago, I walked this path after my father died. For this stage I wrote in my journal:

I love the sound of your feet crunching as you walk. It’s hypnotic. If I recorded that sound and played it to a pilgrim, they would agree. Crunch, crunch, crunch. Like a heartbeat. It allows you to slip into your thoughts, away from the noise of everyday life.

My thoughts wandered. Is it introspection or retrospection to ponder what makes us tick? My father died and I wasn’t grieving.  But I was trying to make sense of the mess that was my childhood. I realised how hard I am on myself: setting impossible goals, pushing myself to do more, to be better. I realise I do those things because I want to feel good enough. And just writing those words made me cry.

Crunch, crunch, crunch.

If you’re lucky, along the road there is sometimes an Ice-cream van; it’s a very welcome break on a hot day!

stone bridge pontevedra

Monllo – Río Barosa Falls (6.4 km)

On my first Camino Portuguese, the tourist information office in Pontevedra suggested a mini detour to visit the Río Barosa Falls near Monllo. They promised it would be beautiful, and we went, but honestly, we thought they were only kind of okay. Perhaps I’d feel differently in spring, with more water rushing, or if my feet had been happier that day.

The waterfall is surrounded by a group of 17 restored mills, much like the Route of Stone and Water on the Spiritual Variante. There are hiking trails too, but on a 23-kilometre day, very few pilgrims are likely to add this detour.

Most pilgrims choose to continue on the main path. If you do the same, keep an eye out for the road sign to Santiago, just 40 kilometres away by road.

corner house camino

Briallos (1.3 km)

The parish of Briallos, officially known as San Cristovo de Briallos, is one of the smallest in the region, covering just a few square kilometres; the name itself is thought to have Celtic origins. The Church of San Cristovo de Briallos dates back to the 15th century and is notable for its baroque-style altarpiece and bell tower.

Briallos also has a pilgrim albergue, though it’s located about 350 metres off the main trail. It’s a traditional Xunta-run facility, offering all essential pilgrim services, and is ideal if you’re looking to break up your stages.

As you walk today, you’ll pass rows and rows of vines supported by sturdy granite poles. This traditional system, known as emparrado, is a distinctive feature of Galicia’s. The elevated trellises help vines thrive in the area’s rainy, humid climate. The height improves air circulation, reducing the risk of fungal diseases, while ensuring the grapes receive the sunlight needed to ripen.

The granite poles, abundant in this rocky region, are also resistant to the elements; and they’ve supported Galicia’s famous Albariño vines for generations.

granite vines caldas

Tivo (2.7 km)

This is unmistakably wine country, with rows of vines supported by the iconic granite poles. The region is part of the Rías Baixas Denomination of Origin (DO) and is particularly celebrated for its Albariño white wines.

Tivo may be a small village, but the area has been home to settlements since prehistoric times, shaped by influences from the Celts to the Romans. Caldas de Reis is a prime example of this illustrious heritage and Tivo sits right on its doorstep.

History aside, you’ve probably noticed that services have been somewhat lacking today, but Tivo offers a few options. However, trust me, wait for the second!

Follow the yellow arrows through the village and resist the temptation to turn off and follow the signs for other bars partway through. Just as you’re about to leave the village, when you’re thinking I’ve misled you, you’ll find Albergue Vintecatro on your left at a small junction.

  • Albergue Vintecatro : Not only can you stay here, the little albergue restaurant is wonderful too, with a lovely garden, perfect for a long, relaxing lunch. While they do offer beds, I’ve only ever stopped here to enjoy a pilgrim menu in the shade. And after your late lunch, it’s just a few more kilometres to Caldas de Reis.
albergue lunch caldas

Caldas de Reis (2.7 km)

Caldas de Reis is renowned for its hot springs. If you’re looking to soak your tired feet, head to the communal outdoor spa just beyond the church. For a more luxurious experience, you can book a spa treatment at one of the local hotels.

However, do not soak your feet in the fountains around town. The locals are very protective of these and there are signs discouraging foot bathing; ignoring them could earn you a stern word or two!

Caldas is a wonderful Galician town with plenty of history and lots of explore. The church is worth a visit, particularly at sunset, when the cacophony of birds start nesting in the palm trees.

A few years ago, I walked a long day from Arcade, on yesterday’s stage from Redondela. At Pontevedra my feet had wings and I kept going and arrived in Caldas de Reis some 35 kilometres later. I stayed at the Hotel Roquiño, getting a room for the princely sum of €38.

It was a Sunday, and I arrived as lunchtime service was ending. Thankfully, they made an exception for a pilgrim and let me eat at a table near the staff. It was a fabulous meal and a very comfortable stay!

thomas becket church

Exploring Caldas de Reis

At first glance, Caldas de Reis might appear like any other quiet town along the Camino. But beneath its unassuming exterior lies a wealth of history, stretching back thousands of years.

Prehistory to the Romans

Caldas de Reis’ history stretches back to the megalithic age, around 4000 BCE, evidenced by numerous mamoas (burial mounds) and petroglyphs found in the area. During the Bronze Age (1800–1500 BCE), the region was home to the As Silgadas Treasure, a spectacular hoard of gold jewellery considered the largest collection of Bronze Age gold in Europe.

By the Iron Age (7th–1st centuries BCE), hill forts appeared. Then, of course, came the Romans, who left a lasting mark. Around the mid-1st century CE, they constructed the Via XIX, one of their most important roads. The Romans named the town Aquis Celenis or Aquae Celenae, in homage to its thermal waters.

Early Christian and Medieval Influences

Caldas de Reis retained its influence well after the fall of the Roman Empire. In the Council of Toledo (397–400 CE), Exuperantius, Bishop of Aquis Celenis, is mentioned, suggesting the town’s continued prominence. By the 12th century, Caldas de Reis gained new significance as the birthplace of royalty, including Alfonso VII, the Emperor.

Caldas hosted a pilgrim hospital and one notable visitor was Thomas Becket, the English Archbishop of Canterbury.  He stopped here in 1167 while making a pilgrimage to Santiago along the Portuguese Camino.  

In 1581, King Philip II sold the town for the hefty sum of 3,526,255 maravedíes, underlining its value and reputation.

Modern Caldas de Reis

Throughout its history, Caldas de Reis has been celebrated for its thermal waters and, then as now, it remains a popular stop along the Portuguese Way.

Make time to visit :

caldas pilgrim footspa

Where to Stay in Caldas de Reis

Caldas de Reis offers a variety of accommodations to suit every pilgrim. I’ve stayed in a number of places and these are my favourites:

  • Hotel Roquiño : I stayed here years ago and my opinion hasn’t changed. If you’re after a very comfortable bed, hot showers, and a fabulous onsite restaurant, this is one of my top choices.
  • Albergue As Pozas Termais : One of the best pilgrim albergue. They’ve thought of everything, including the best steps ever to a bunk bed! The communal areas are spacious and welcoming, and the location is good.
  • Casa Herreria : A wonderful little guesthouse offering a high level of comfort. The twin-bed rooms are ideal for sharing, and it’s right on the Camino. The outdoor area is lovely for relaxing; I’ve stayed here with my group and it’s really wonderful.
  • Pensión de Peregrinos La Moderna : If you’re looking for a private room that’s more affordable, this pension is a good choice. I stayed here many years ago and it still gets good reviews. The single beds are great for those sharing, and the room for three people is especially good value.
  • Hotel Balneario Davila : This historic building is ideal if you’re looking for a spa experience. While its reviews are mixed, recent feedback is more positive. If you love the idea of staying in a spa hotel and enjoying thermal baths, it’s worth considering.
calle real caldas

Potential Challenges Between Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis

Are there challenges today? Nothing too major, but I guess you have to wait a while for coffee. The aside there are also a few other things to consider :

  • Coffee: It may be a while before you find coffee or food, so make sure you have breakfast in Pontevedra and carry plenty of water and snacks.
  • Variant Turning: At the junction for the Spiritual Variante, make sure to stay on the traditional path by turning right.  This is not a route deviation, the Variante is a separate path. Turn right to go to Caldas.
  • Lack of Services: Services are limited and there is a wait for your first coffee; and in quiet season, some are closed! Hope for the ice cream van or the lady selling fruit, but don’t count on it. Be prepared with snacks and water from Pontevedra.
  • Waterlogged Paths: If there’s been heavy rain, the streams alongside the trail can flood, leaving sections muddy or submerged. Carry extra socks and hiking poles can help with balance on sodden ground.
  • Traffic: Parts of the trail follow country roads and while traffic is generally light, always stay alert to vehicles. You may also encounter horses and cyclists sharing the trail too.
  • Weather: Galicia is famous for its unpredictable weather and it’s green for a reason. Pack a lightweight waterproof jacket to stay dry.
  • Foot Traffic: This stage can be busy.  If you’re caught in a bubble pause a while, or start your day later after everyone else has left town.  Book your bed in Caldas de Reis and you can meander at leisure.  

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

tree lined camino

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites for the Coastal Camino

If you’re walking any stage of the Camino Portuguese Coastal, these apps, guidebooks, and websites are invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

  • AlertCops: A free app that connects you directly with the Spanish police. While not particularly useful in Portugal, it’s excellent for peace of mind once you cross the border. Remember, the emergency international operator in Portugal (and across Europe) is 112.
  • What3Words: A lifesaver in emergencies, this app pinpoints your exact location to a 3×3 metre square anywhere in the world. It’s free to download and invaluable if needed.
  • Wise Pilgrim: Though not free, this app is well worth a few euros. It’s packed with helpful information about the Portuguese Camino and it’s been on my phone for many years.
  • Google Translate: English is widely spoken in Portugal, but this app is handy for menus, signs, or conversations. You can type, take a photo (great for menus), or speak into it for instant translations. Download the Portuguese and Spanish languages in advance for offline use.
  • Casa Ivar: A trusted source for purchasing credentials, pilgrim shells, or luggage forwarding to Santiago. Ivar also runs the international pilgrim forum and has lived in Santiago for many years.
  • John Brierley Guides: The go-to guidebook for Camino pilgrims. Compact, regularly updated, and filled with useful details. The Portuguese guide covers the route from Lisbon, including both the Coastal and Central routes.
  • WhatsApp: Many albergues and pilgrim services prefer communication via WhatsApp. Be sure to download it before leaving home, as some phones may block new app installs overseas.
  • Airalo: Not an app but an eSIM provider that’s easy to set up before departure. It allows you to connect to mobile data as soon as you arrive. Check if your phone supports eSIMs, as it’s a hassle-free alternative to finding a physical SIM card.
  • Revolut and Wise Bank Cards: Not apps but travel essentials. Both Revolut and Wise cards make paying for services and withdrawing foreign currency simple and offer favourable exchange rates. Setting them up can take time, especially for American users, but they’re highly reliable and accepted in both Portugal and Spain.  We’ve used both these currency cards globally and would not travel without them.

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

shells albergue caldas

Final Thoughts: Camino Portuguese From Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

A few years ago, I wrote in my journal: We walked on this very beautiful morning. The sun broke through the trees, and we heard the odd distant bark and a cockerel crow. It felt like a lazy morning where even the crow sounded like it was too much effort. I think that sums up today perfectly.

This stage feels easy; maybe even easy like a Sunday morning. There’s no need to rush. There’s nothing extraordinary to see, and yet that simplicity is part of today’s charm.

The history here is present but quiet, underneath layers of modern life. At both ends of the stage are two unassuming towns, Pontevedra and Caldas de Reis; both places of great importance that go about their business without any fanfare.

Today is a day for reflection. Whether that’s reflecting on your journey or turning your thoughts inward. Let the rhythm of your footsteps and the crunch, crunch, crunch underfoot guide you; and follow in the footsteps of Saints and Kings.

There’s a beauty in the smallest of things, if you take the time to notice. Look for it today. Tomorrow will be different; the eve of the end.  Santiago isn’t far now.

road sign stop

Are You Walking The Portuguese Coastal Camino?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I know I’ll walk again. If you’re walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve created detailed daily walking guides packed with route tips, accommodation recommendations, and insights to help you along the way.

Here are some posts that may inspire and help you to plan your journey:

If you’re planning your Camino or are already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences! Join my Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, find inspiration and ideas for the road ahead.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.

Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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