Puente La Reina To Estella : Step By Step Guide To Stage 5 Of The Camino Frances

Walking The Camino Frances From Puente La Reina To Estella

I’ve walked into Estella seven times. It should be eight, but on my first Camino Frances, my blisters were so bad that I had to stop in Lorca and take a taxi. A doctor lanced my blisters in Maneru and advised me to stop walking for a few days. I took his advice, stayed in Estella, bought new shoes in the old town, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Hopefully, you’ll be blister-free on this stage and can enjoy all the delights today’s walk offers.

There are a few hills to tackle, but thankfully, there are also villages to pause for refreshments. The trail can be a little exposed though, so make sure you have sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water.

Towns And Villages Between Puente La Reina and Estella

The last section from Lorca can feel long; I’ve even tracked it specifically to check the distance, and, of course, the distance is correct. The consensus is that today is just shy of 22 kilometers, but be warned: the last hour can feel endless!

Puente La Reina

Stop for breakfast before leaving town. Jakue Hotel offers breakfast, and there are a few small café bars in Calle Mayor; it may be a while before you can stop for your next coffee.  There’s also a small grocery store selling snacks and fruit, stop and stock up before leaving.

More importantly, Puente La Reina is famous for its bridge: a six-arched Romanesque bridge over the River Arga, built in the 11th century by the Queen of Navarra. Though history isn’t certain which queen, the bridge is nonetheless fabulous and worth a longer look.

Most pilgrims follow the arrows down Calle Mayor and cross the bridge without stopping, but if you want the best views, taking the little street on the right beside the bridge before crossing. It leads down to the water for an even better view.

The path starts gently today, running along the river with little elevation for the first three kilometres; until you reach the hill. Take your time; this climb feels like it goes on forever, though it’s less than a kilometre. And don’t forget to pause and take in the views behind you.

Top Tip : If you have hiking poles use them for this section and be aware that it can be sticky and slippery in the wet so take care!

Maneru (4.9 km)

In 2015, I had a fall at the entrance of Maneru and I thought it would end my Camino.  It didn’t but it’s a timely reminder to watch your step, especially on uneven pavements and cobbled streets!

This is a quiet little village with few services, and in low season, they’re often closed. There’s a nice seating area as you enter town, perfect for a quick break. And there’s a bar beside the church that serves excellent bocadillos, though it’s not always open. I’m always hopeful and so always take a short detour to check!

If not, you’ll walk quickly through this pretty village and be back in open countryside. The trail is well-marked and relatively easy, offering beautiful views and very quickly, you’ll see the hilltop village of Cirauqui in the distance.

Top Tip: We spotted new signs on the Camino in October 2024. They are for cyclists. They are marked with a bike symbols and the numbers 1 and 3 (encircled in stars) which identify the cycle routes. These can be confusing, but stick to the yellow arrows, and if in doubt, use the Wise Pilgrim app for checking your location in real time.

Cirauqui (2.6 km)

I suspect every pilgrim who walks this stage will have photos of Cirauqui. This beautiful medieval village, whose name means “nest of vipers” in Basque, holds remnants of a Roman settlement, and a 2,000-year-old milestone is preserved in the Iglesia de San Roman.
You’ll see Cirauqui ahead of you for some time.  It’s picture perfect with fields of cereal, olives, and vines. Enter the village through its medieval archway and wander up the narrow streets, thankfully always shaded in summer.

There’s a café near the entrance; more of a bakery with coffee, snacks, and a few chairs. Higher up the hill, off to the right, is a bar also serving snacks and drinks.

At the top of the village, you’ll exit through a tunnel under the old buildings.  Here you’ll find public toilets and a sello for your credentials.

I have stayed in this little town at Albergue Casa Maralotx.  We enjoy an fabulous evening and a glorious meal in the company of pilgrims.  If you wish to stay off the main stages this is a great option and allows time to explore the village in full.

Leaving Cirauqui, you’ll walk over Roman roads with cobblestones and cross small rivers over ancient Roman bridges, long forgotten and unused. In the 12th century, pilgrims were warned never to drink the water here. Thankfully, today it’s safe, and on a hot day, I’ve seen many pilgrims cooling their feet in the stream.

Whilst there is a joy in following in the footsteps of the Romans, I do recommend you hop over to the trail that often runs beside the cobbles, it’s a lot easier on the feet!

Partway along this section you’ll find a small retreat known as the Olive Garden, offering pilgrims an honesty box with cold drinks and snacks and a place to pause under the olive trees. Give generously, enjoy a pause under the trees before continuing and don’t forget your Sello!

Top Tip: Watch for trail variations. The path splits here, with a cycle route on the right and the pedestrian path lower down; both paths merge later but the lower left path is shorter.

Lorca (5.7 km)

The road into Lorca feels long, especially as it’s uphill, and I’m always grateful to see the town come into view. The name Lorca derives from Arabic and was the site of a famous battle in 920.  You enter the village almost at the door of the 12th-century Church of San Salvador. While most pilgrims walk by in search of refreshments, it’s worth stopping if it’s open.

Continue along the main street, where you’ll first pass a fountain, followed by two albergue side by side. I’ve enjoyed a lovely bowl of soup for lunch on the right, and a fabulous slice of tortilla on the left. Friends tell me they stock different beers, but I’m always happy for a seat and a cold drink at either. Both also offer bunk beds if you wish to stay the night.

On my first Camino, my blisters were so painful that I couldn’t bring myself to put my shoes back on. I ordered a taxi and spent a few days in Estella, letting my blisters heal. Missing those eight kilometres bugged me, but healing those blisters was the right choice.

You can spend the night in Lorca, either in one of the albergue or at the charming Casa Nahia Hotel. I’m often tempted to stay here with my group, but I love Estella so we walk on. Casa Nahia is a lovely choice though for those looking to stay off the main stages.

Leaving Lorca, there are just 8.7 kilometers left to Estella, but be warned, it often feels like someone has added an extra few kilometres! Continue following the arrows through open countryside until you reach the modern-looking town of Villatuerta.

Villatuerta (4.7 km)

Villatuerta seems a sleepy town that on the surface looks modern, but its history goes back to Roman times. The Camino leads you by the Church of San Miguel, originally medieval but rebuilt in Gothic style in the late 14th century.

Inside, you can get your sello, and if you’re lucky, you might even hear the nuns singing as they go about their work.

As you exit the town you have just four kilometres left and partway along, you’ll pass a sign which proclaims just 2.6 kilometres to go; I honestly think they are the longest 2.6 kms on the Camino. 

Estella (4 km)

Estella, or Lizarra in Basque, means old town.  It has a rich history dating back to the Bronze Age, though it officially dates from 1090. As you enter Estella’s outskirts, you’ll pass a small weir and find Hosteria de Curtidores, both a hotel and albergue if you’re looking for an early place to stay.

Estella has a rich history, with medieval churches and the Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra. The town was once a major hub for commerce and royalty, and its preserved architecture gives you a glimpse into its noble past.

Follow the yellow arrows from the weir to the Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro. Construction on this church began in 1123, and though it was undergoing renovations in 2024, it’s still worth a closer look.

Follow the arrows from here and they lead you directly into the old town. I always stay at the fabulous Agora Hostel which is just off the trail.  To reach it, you’ll cross an ancient, albeit rather steep bridge but it’s just metres from the Camino.

Estella is a great choice for a rest day if you prefer to take a slower route to Santiago. I had an enforced stay on my first walk but there is a lot to see.  With its many historical sites, it’s easy to fill a day exploring.

Where to Stay in Estella

Estella is a reasonable size town.  At its core is the old centre and I’d recommend finding accommodation here. 

There’s a variety of options; from bunk beds in the municipal to a more reflective experience in the Monasterio Benito.  I stayed in the very modest Hotel Cristina and of course my favourite Albergue Agora.  There are also a lot of apartments to choose from and this could be ideal if you plan a rest day.

There is a lot of choice in Estella but these are options I know and would recommend :

Potential Problems Between Puente La Reina and Estella

Today’s stage of the Camino Frances is a scenic trail, with rolling hills and sweeping views and with one notable hill into Maneru.

My Final Thoughts on Camino Frances between Puente La Reina and Estella

If you’ve read my posts from St Jean Pied de Port, you might think I’m repeating myself, but honestly each stage offers so much beauty. And today is no exception.

If you’re a history lover, then walk in the footsteps of the Romans along ancient roads and bridges, and explore medieval villages. If you love wide open views, keep your eyes on the horizons. As you climb the big hill out of Maneru, you’ll see where you’ve walked already.  After Lorca, search for the pointed hill in the distance, which you’ll walk around tomorrow at Villamayor de Monjardín.

My first walk was difficult, I had blisters and no idea how to care for them. If you’re like me then seek help. Stop in a medical centre or pharmacy but deal with those blisters. And don’t panic. Mine were awful and yet I still walked to Santiago de Compostela!

This stage may feel longer than it is, but the distance markers are accurate. Allow plenty of time, take short breaks to enjoy the views, and just soak up the landscape that is pure Navarra.