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The Variante Espiritual: Walking The Camino Portuguese Spiritual Variant

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If you’re walking the Camino Portuguese, you might also be considering the Spiritual Variant; an alternative path that adds an extra day or two, but also lots of history and legend to your journey too.

I’ve walked the Portuguese Camino many times, but it wasn’t until 2019 that we took the Variant, and we chose to extend it by a day, to stay in one of Spain’s most beautiful fishing villages.

When we walked, there was little information online, and while things have improved, many questions still remain; especially with regard to the distance required for your Compostela.

Our guide takes you through the traditional daily stages, shows where to break them, explains the history and highlights and answers the most common questions about what makes  this route so special.

What is the Spiritual Variant?

The Variante Espiritual is a modern addition to the Camino Portuguese, officially established in 2012. It guides pilgrims through ancient lands and is the only route that follows the final journey of Saint James, arriving by boat just outside Padron at Pontecesures; where you rejoin the traditional Camino.

Spiritual Variant Distance

Traditional Camino Distance

While the Variante Espiritual does add an extra day or two to your journey when compared to the traditional Camino Portuguese, it is a beautiful route, the history is amazing and it’s well worth the extra kilometres.

The History of the Spiritual Route

The Spiritual Variant was created to connect pilgrims with historic sites of religious and monastic significance and to follow the final journey of St James. However, this land has been inhabited for thousands of years, making it one of the most historically rich areas of Galicia.

Ancient Settlements & Prehistoric Art

Archaeological discoveries of early hominins, Neanderthals and of course, modern humans date back hundreds of thousands of years and the region around Poio and Pontevedra has been settled since at least the Neolithic period.

At A Caeira, near Poio, around 5 kilometres from the Camino, you’ll find 4,000-year-old petroglyphs from the Bronze Age depicting animals such as deer. If you’d like the detour you can visit the A Caeira Archaeological Interpretation Centre.

Medieval Monasteries & the Christian Influence

Legend tells us that St. James lived and preached in Iria Flavia (modern-day Padron). Long before the discovery of his tomb, Iria Flavia was an important Roman port and one of the most significant Christian centres in Spain.

By the medieval age, the region was home to many important monastic communities, including two that you’ll walk by :

Stage One : Pontevedra to The Monasterio de Armenteira

The route out of Pontevedra is straightforward, but as you divert from the main Camino, the path gradually rises; thankfully, a gentle incline. You’ll also notice a change in waymarkers: instead of the familiar yellow arrows, the Spiritual Variant is marked by a red cross of Saint James and a scallop shell.

The trail winds through small hamlets and villages before reaching Poio, home to its magnificent monastery. From there, you continue toward Combarro, a picturesque fishing village often ranked among Spain’s most beautiful.

There is a big climb to Armenteira at the end of this stage and many pilgrims opt to spend the night in Combarro. For this guide, I’ll follow the standard stages, but I’ll also include recommendations for shortening this stage if you have extra time.

Walking from Pontevedra

You’ll leave Pontevedra and follow the yellow arrows out of the old town and cross the Ponte do Burgo over the Río Lérez.  Once you leave Pontevedra, the first few kilometres are a mix of quiet urban streets, suburban roads, and countryside paths.

I recommend having breakfast before leaving as it will be several kilometres before you reach another café; my favourite is Cafeteria De Ruas at Praza da Verdura 14. And if you’re looking for accommodation in the town, these are a few of my favourites.

the Start Of the Spiritual Variant (3.1 km)

The Spiritual Variant begins a few kilometres from Pontevedra, on the Camino Portuguese.  About 3 km from Pontevedra, in Pontecabras, you’ll reach the junction where the Variant breaks from the main Camino Portuguese. 

Instead of following the yellow arrows you’ll go left, leaving behind the Via Romana XIX, or as Gerry called it the R19.

From the split the road starts to rise; this isn’t like the hill into Armenteira but a hill nonetheless. Within a few kilometres you’ll walk through O Freixo, passing it’s tiny Capilla de San Paio de O Freixo and onwards through Parada and eventually into Cabaleiro.

Cabaleiro (2.4 km)

As you enter the village, you’ll pass the Igrexa de San Pedro de Campañó, originally built in the medieval ages and reconstructed in the 18th century.

If you need a break after the hill, you can pause on the wall beside the church or keep walking for a few minutes further to Café-Bar Restaurante La Viuda. When we stopped here, there was a wedding in full swing, but thankfully they still served us lunch.

There is a hotel here too, right on the Camino. For most pilgrims though, you continue through Cabaleiro, follow the markers out of town.  You’ll be back onto wooded trails, weaving in and out of quiet country roads, before descending down again toward the sea and the Monastery of Poio.

Monasterio de Poio (3.3 km)

The Monasterio de San Xoán de Poio is absolutely worth a visit, but you’ll need to time it well, as it closes in the afternoons.

The monastery dates back to at least the 10th century, although legend suggests it was originally founded by San Fructuoso in the 7th century. According to tradition, he miraculously walked across the waters to the islet of Tambo to rescue a sinking boat.

You’ll also find the tomb of Santa Trahamunda, a nun abducted during a Moorish raid and imprisoned in Cordoba for eleven years. Her unwavering faith led to her miraculous return to Poio, where she spent the rest of her life.

During the Middle Ages, the monastery flourished under the Benedictine Order. The monks left in 1835, but in 1890, the Order of La Merced took over and continues to maintain it today.

As well as the immense history of the building visitors can also explore :

Visiting the Monastery

Visitors are welcome to explore parts of the monastery, including the cloister and church. Guided tours are available, although often in Spanish and it’s advisable to check visiting hours and tour availability before you arrive. 

Visiting Hours:

Staying at the Monastery

You can also spend the night at Hospedería Monasterio de Poio and it would be a great option for breaking the stage. Having stayed in many convents and monasteries over the years, I can say that it’s a wonderful experience.

Rooms are simple but comfortable, each with a desk, reading light, and private bathroom. The environment offers pilgrims a unique opportunity to experience monastic life whilst walking the Spiritual Variant.

Combarro (2.8 km)

Leaving the monastery, the trail winds through quiet residential areas, following a well-marked path as it eventually drops down to Seca on the coast. Here, you’ll pass the Campo de Fútbol da Seca and enter Parque da Memoria (often called Parque de A Seca).

From this point, the trail runs beside the water, it’s a glorious little path that reminds me very much of the little coastal walk around Arcade, looking back toward Redondela. The park is a wonderful space, with benches, shady trees, and fabulous views over the Ría de Pontevedra; perfect for a picnic!

When we first walked this path, we’d been following a donkey for days. We never saw him, but every day, we’d find fresh donkey poop along the way. Gerry nicknamed him Shinto, after the donkey in Tom Moore’s book about walking the Camino Frances with a donkey.

We were sad when we left the Camino Portuguese as we thought we’d never catch him but when we reached Parque de A Seca and found fresh donkey poop, we were thrilled!  Yeah, we still had a chance to catch up with Shinto!

All too soon though the little trail leaves the park, and the Camino markers return you to the road as you approach Combarro.

Where to Stay In Combarro

The way-markers skirt the village, so whatever you do, do not leave without exploring. If you have time, I highly recommend breaking your journey here; wander the beaches, explore the stone houses and narrow streets, and enjoying fresh seafood from the bay.

If you’re lucky, the tide will be in at dinner and you’ll hear the waves gently rolling in as you eat. It truly is a wonderful place to spend the night!

Top Tip: Combarro is a popular tourist destination, so if you plan to stay, book ahead.

Mirador de Loureiro (3.4 km)

If you stayed in the old town of Combarro, find the arrows to rejoin the trail. From Hotel Combarro, we had to walk toward the old town to find them. Either way it’s well marked. No matter where you stayed, the route quickly turns inland and begins the climb and this one will definitely test your legs!

Over the next 7 km, you’ll walk up over 400 meters. Thankfully, it’s not all steep and there are gentler stretches where you can catch your breath.

The walk begins in the town, but you’ll soon find yourself climbing through narrow residential lanes. The higher you go, the more rural it becomes. Most of the ascent follows quiet roads and forestry tracks. There’s not much at the Mirador de Loureiro, but the view is fabulous.

Top Tip: There are no services on the ascent, so carry plenty of water and snacks and have breakfast before leaving!

Petroglifos de Outeiro do Cribo (3.3 km)

Back on forest trails, you’ll keep climbing gently for another 1.3 km before reaching a second viewpoint, Miradoiro de Cal Marroco. From here, you’re close to the top, just a little more up and then downhill all the way!

Along this section, you’ll pass prehistoric rock carvings. The Petroglifos Outeiro do Cribo are one of the more significant Bronze Age petroglyph sites in Galicia. Carved over 4,000 years ago, they include labyrinths, zoomorphic figures, and concentric circles.

The Camino passes near the site but you need to follow a 350-meter forest trail. Did we find them? Nope! But at least you’ve reached the top of the hill! From here, the path begins to drop, mostly through forest trails, and keeps going down all the way to Armenteira.

Monasterio de Armenteira (2.2 km)

The Monasterio de Armenteira was founded in 1167 and completed in the late 12th or early 13th century. After falling into decline in the 19th century, the monastery was revitalised in 1989 by a group of Cistercian nuns from Navarra. Who continue to maintain the monastic traditions of offering a place of peace, prayer, and reflection.

The Sisters here are wonderful. We’ve stayed in many monastic accommodations over the years, and I have to say that the kindness and welcome I received here was very special.

The Legend of Don Ero and the Little Bird

There is a legend is linked to Monasterio de Armenteira. Don Ero de Armenteira, a noble knight, founded the monastery in the 12th century. One day, he prayed to the Virgin Mary, asking for a glimpse of heavenly paradise.

As he wandered the forest, he paused to rest and listened to the song of a small bird. Enchanted, he lost all sense of time and when he returned to the monastery, he discovered that 300 years had passed! His fellow monks were long gone and his story became one of Galicia’s most famous miracles.

Accommodation at the Monastery

If you wish to stay, you must keep in mind that the purpose of staying should be for reflection and prayer. The monastery carefully maintains a quiet, meditative atmosphere.

Even if you don’t stay overnight, I recommend visiting the monastery and supporting the Sisters by purchasing something from their small gift shop.

Where to Eat in Armenteira

There is a bar beside the monastery, Café Bar A Fonte.  It was busy with visitors, but if you can find a shady table, it’s the perfect place to rest after the long climb.

When we arrived, a group of young men on horseback had gathered and broke into singing and dancing, giving us an impromptu show of traditional horse dressage.  It’s a great way to end the day!

Where to Stay In Armenteira

Choosing where to stay in Armenteira can be tricky. Accommodation is limited, and with the Variante growing in popularity, booking ahead is a good idea; especially if you wish to stay in the albergue.

There are three main options:

Alternatively, if you stayed in Combarro and feel strong after the climb, you could walk on; the next accommodation is around 6.5 kms away. Alternatively, there are a few rental houses slightly off the Camino, which could be worth considering if you’re a group.

Stage 2: Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa

Today is all about the river. When I first learned of this route, it was the Ruta da Pedra e da Auga (Route of Stone and Water) that interested me most.

If you’re walking from the Monastery, today is a longer stage and expect first few kilometres along the river to be slower.  There are rocks and tree roots and a few muddy sections. This is a glorious corner of Galicia and deserves to be explored fully so maybe book your bed in Vilanova de Arousa, take your time.

The trail is well marked, weaving through forests and criss-crossing the river throughout the first half of the day. The final few kilometres take you back to the coast, along sandy trails near the beach.

Top Tip: Services are sparse today, especially at the start. The first time we walked it was October and most of the seaside bars were closed; be prepared to carry plenty of water and snacks.

The Ruta de Pedra e da Auga

Today’s walk almost begins at the entrance to one of Galicia’s most stunning trails; the Ruta da Pedra e da Auga (Route of Stone and Water), which follows the Armenteira River.

The trail winds through natural woodland, with sections that can be rocky and interlaced with tree roots. As you progress, the path widens and flattens, making for an easier walk. But take your time as some areas can be slippery, especially after rain. But, it’s glorious so take your time anyway.

Initially, the river will be on your left. As the day unfolds, you’ll cross to the south side, where the river will be on your right, offering gorgeous views of the Rías Baixas vineyards, famous for Albariño white wines. But first the woodland!

Do have breakfast in your accommodation before starting today because :

The morning light transforms the forest and brings it to life.  Linger a little over breakfast so that you don’t miss Mother Nature’s light show.

The Watermills

The Ruta da Pedra e da Auga is home to over 30 historic watermills, many of which have been restored. Some date back several centuries, built to harness the river’s flow to grind grain into flour. Each mill is identified by name, with information boards explaining how they worked.

This ancient path was originally used to access the mills but was also a pilgrim route. On Easter Monday, pilgrims walked this trail to reach the Santa María da Armenteira Convent.

The mills fell into disuse as modernization and industrialization spread across Spain and by the mid-20th century, most had been abandoned. However, in the late 20th century, the trail and its mills were preserved, recognized for their cultural and historical value as part of Galicia’s heritage.

This really is a beautiful trail so allow time in your planning and meander. Explore the mills, read the history, and wait for the sun! It really does make all the difference.

Aldea Labrega (3.9 km)

The Aldea Labrega, also known as Aldea de Pedra (Stone Village), is a recreated Galician village. There’s not a great deal to see but it’s worth the short detour; especially as there are bathrooms.

From here, you leave the natural forest and the trail opens up a little. You’ll cross a few roads before crossing to the other side of the river. This section is known as the Route of the Mills of Barrantes, and you’ll pass more restored watermills, each a little different than then others.

I can’t tell you how much Gerry loved these mills.  He had to stop at every one! It took us forever to walk this section, but it was worth it.

Castaños / Barrantes (2.8)

You’ll find services here, making it a good spot for a break. If you’re considering splitting this stage, or walking on from Armenteira, there’s a small hotel about 6.5 km from the monastery which could be perfect.

Birdwatching Along the Way

Leaving Castaños, the trail returns to the river, this time the Umia River, crossing bridges as you’re walk both sides of the water. You’ll notice more and more vineyards and farmlands but we also noticed a lot of birdlife. After a little research we found that the habitats here support a rich array of birdlife including :

Ponte Arnelas (5.9 km)

Leaving the river trail you arrive in Ponte Arnelas. There are services here and a lovely little Casa Rural, making it an ideal place to break the stage. Ponte Arnelas sits along the Umia River, marking the boundary between Ribadumia and Vilanova de Arousa. It is best known for its historic stone bridge, locally called Ponte dos Padriños (Bridge of the Godfathers) and is home to a rather unusual tradition.

The Legend Of Ponte dos Padrinos

While the current bridge was built in the 16th century, it stands on Roman foundations. But Ponte dos Padriños is also steeped in local folklore. According to tradition, women who had difficulty carrying pregnancies to term would take part in a fertility ritual here.

Ponte Arnelas is a great place to break this stage, but if you’re walking back to your hotel late, maybe keep an eye out for any mysterious processions!

San Roque do Monte  (7.8)

Leaving Ponte Arnelas, you’ll pass the ancient Capilla de Santa Marta. Its origins are uncertain, but its proximity to the bridge suggests it has been a site of pilgrimage for centuries.

The trail leads you through Gombra, Mouzos, A Igrexa (Tremoedo), and A Igrexa (Deiro) for around 3.5 kilometres. At A Igrexa, you’ll leave the road and follow a forest trail for a short while, facing the only real elevation of the day. Thankfully it’s a gentle climb and nothing like the hill to Armenteira.

From the top, you’ll return to small roads, walking past vineyards, lots of vineyards as you’re walking through the Rías Baixas wine country.

Why Two A Igrexa on the map?

Since both Tremoedo and Deiro are small parishes, their churches serve as landmarks, which is why the name A Igrexa (The Church) is used.

Top Tip: Check if the churches are open as you might find a Sello for your Credential

You’ll reach San Roque do Monte, a small village, famous for its annual Festival, held on the first weekend of September. If you’re walking at the right time, you might find yourself in the middle of a donkey race! And if not, you can still stop for a quick photo with the stone donkey near the church.

O Terrón (2km)

Just 1 km from San Roque do Monte, the trail rejoins the coast and shortly after this you reach what feels like a little resort. The coastline around O Terrón is lined with campsites and cafés. It’s a simple beach, no kiss-me-quick hats and many cafés close in the off-season.  But we found a shady seat and enjoyed ice-cold cokes and an ice cream before walking the final few kilometres into Vilanova de Arousa.

If you’d rather spend the night here beside the beach there are a few options, many are campsites but you can book a room at Hostal Luz de Luna; where we stopped for our cold drinks.

Vilanova de Arousa (2 km)

While the name Vilanova suggests a new town but the town as we know it was probably established in medieval times. Historically, Vilanova de Arousa has been connected to the sea and its economy has long relied on fishing and seafood, particularly mussel farming.

Today, it is one of Galicia’s primary mussel-producing areas, holding its own protected designation of origin (PDO): Mexillón de Galicia. With a mollusc allergy, these are an absolute no-no for me but I can assure you that Gerry has been happily eating his way through the seafood along this coast!

For pilgrims, Vilanova is the gateway to the Traslatio Route, the maritime path linked to the legend of the Apostle James’s body being transported to Galicia. And it is for this reason that we walk here.

Where to Stay in Vilanova de Arousa

There are several accommodation options in town, including a municipal, two private albergue, apartments, and hotels. If you’re walking outside of peak season, do be aware that some restaurants, shops, and accommodations may be closed, so it’s best to check ahead.

Stage 3 : Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecusures

While it’s possible to walk the 32 km from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures, most pilgrims on the Spiritual Variant take the Traslatio Route; the maritime journey that follows the arrival of body of Saint James.

The 28 km boat trip begins in Vilanova de Arousa and ends at the river port of Pontecesures on the Ulla River. From there, you’ll rejoin the main Camino Portuguese, crossing the ancient bridge over the Ulla and continue toward Padron and Santiago de Compostela.

The Traslatio Route

This fluvial pilgrimage is said to the only maritime way of the Cross, passing 17 stone crosses (cruceiros) which mark the Apostle’s final journey. The route commemorates the seven-day voyage of Anastasio and Teodoro, the disciples who carried Saint James’s remains from Haifa (Palestine) to Iria Flavia (modern-day Padron).

The route was officially recognized as a cultural and historical landmark by the Xunta de Galicia in 1999, and today it offers pilgrims a chance to experience this part of the Spiritual Variant by sea.

Booking Your Seat On The Boat

Three companies offer this service and I recommend booking in advance. However, be flexible, as schedule changes can happen at the last minute. On one journey, our 7:00 AM departure became a midday departure and this isn’t uncommon, so allow some buffer time in your itinerary.

Alvamar Náutica : Offers a scenic voyage through the Arousa Sea and Ulla River, with historical commentary along the way. Departures are available from Vilanova de Arousa and Vilagarcía de Arousa.

Amare Turismo Náutico : Includes insights into mussel farming, as well as passing islands from the Atlantic Islands National Park and several historic cruceiros.

La Barca del Peregrino : A 28 km journey crossing the Arousa Estuary and the Ulla River, with historical narration about the Via Crucis cruceiros and mussel platforms (bateas).

The Traslatio Route operates year-round, but it’s always best to check schedules in advance as availability may vary due to weather or demand. Make sure to arrive early for your boat, and if you’re traveling during peak pilgrimage season, book ahead to secure your spot.  And expect the unexpected!

Frequently Asked Questions About the Spiritual Variant

The most commonly asked question about the Spiritual Variant is about the Compostela and walking the last 100kms.  So I’ll answer this first.

1. Will I still get a Compostela if I take the boat?

Yes! The Fluvial route is officially approved by the Cathedral of Santiago. However, you must still walk at least 100 km to Santiago in addition to the boat journey.

When planning your route, remember that only your walking distance counts, not the kilometers covered by boat.  Some Credential show maps of the variant include a note which translated reads To obtain the Compostela, the Spiritual Variant must begin at a minimum from Porriño or Vigo.

Top Tip : Remember you must collect two stamps per day in your Credential.

2. What are the highlights of the Spiritual Variant?

There are many, we loved the walk along the coast into Vilanova but the highlights that stood out most include :

3. Where does the Spiritual Variant start and end?

4. Are there plenty of places to stay on the Spiritual Variant?

Yes, but accommodation is more limited than on the main Camino Portuguese, especially during the summer holiday season and we found some places closed in mid to late October too.

That being said, we always found a bed without a problem, but I’d recommend booking or at least calling ahead for a more relaxed experience.

5. Can I transfer my luggage?

Yes! Luggage transport services operate on the Variante Espiritual. Take a look at my post about Backpacks, Bags & Luggage Transfer on the Camino. We used Caminofacil but other companies also cover this route.

6. How long does it take to walk the Spiritual Variant?

The traditional route covers three days, including the boat, but I recommend allowing an extra day to fully enjoy the experience.

The Stages are :

7. How long is the Variante Espiritual?

This variant adds around an extra 37 km compared to the normal Portuguese Camino route via Pontevedra, Caldas del Reis and Padron.

8. Is the Spiritual Variant as well marked as the rest of the Camino Portuguese?

Yes! The route is well-marked with both yellow arrows and the Variant markers.  There are a few places when you have to be mindful of arrows, like the walk through the forest to Armenteira.  Having said that we never felt concerned about markers.

9. Is it Variante Espiritual or Spiritual Variant?

You can use both names as the difference is merely a translation.  If you are struggling to find information then search for both as they are both used equally.

Variante Espiritual is the Spanish term for Spiritual Variant :

In Galician (the local language of Galicia), it would also be Variante Espiritual, as the two languages are very similar.

Potential Challenges Along The Spiritual Variant

Overall, this route is well-trodden and well-marked, so there are no major challenges. However, as with any Camino, there are a few things to be aware of.

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites for the Spritual Variant

If you’re walking any stage of the Camino Portuguese, these apps, guidebooks, and websites are invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

Final Thoughts on the Variante Espiritual

When we first walked this route, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I knew that the walk from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis, and onwards to Padron, was beautiful; I was curious how this route could improve on that. And yet it did.

The Monastery at Poio is impressive, but the Sisters of Armenteira stole my heart. Combarro is glorious, and our evening dinner by the sea was joyous. And if you wait for the sun to rise, the walk along the Ruta da Pedra e da Auga is mother nature at her finest.

I’ve walked across Spain, but no other route offers a final stage quite like the Variant, sailing along the estuary and river to Pontecesures.

If you’re walking from Porto along either the Central or Coastal route, the Spiritual Variant is a worthy addition to your itinerary.  It may not have the ancient pilgrimage history of other routes, but these lands have been home to our ancestors for thousands of years. And this region above all others bar Padron and Santiago de Compostela, has the strongest connections to the Apostle.

If you have the time, take the Variante Espiritual. Allow an extra day. Slow down. Meander through this corner of Galicia. I promise you won’t be disappointed.

Are You Walking The Portuguese Coastal Camino?

I’ve walked the Camino Portuguese many times, in all its forms, and I know that I’ll walk it again. If you’re walking from Porto to Santiago, I’ve created detailed daily guides packed with route tips, accommodation recommendations, and insights to help you along the way.

Here are some posts to help you plan your journey:

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