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Walking the Camino: Independent, Self-Guided or Guided Tour?

Created by Colleen | Updated : 29 July 2026 |

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If you’ve spent any time reading Camino forums or Facebook groups, you’ll probably see the same question come up over and over again. Should I walk independently, choose a self-guided company or book a guided tour?

The problem is that for every answer, there will be another pilgrim with a completely different opinion. So how do you decide which option is right for you?

When I first walked the Camino, I thought there was only one way to do it. Start in St Jean Pied de Port, carry everything on my back and sleep in pilgrim hostels.

I was a novice who felt like an imposter. I felt almost embarrassed to ask questions online and wondered if a slightly plump, middle-aged woman should even consider heading off on the trail alone.

I quickly learned I was wrong.

There isn’t one way to walk the Camino. You can:

  • organise everything yourself
  • use a self-guided company to take care of the planning while you walk independently
  • join a guided tour group

Every year, thousands of pilgrims choose different ways to reach Santiago, and none of them are better than another; they’re simply different. The challenge is knowing which option is right for you.

Walking the Camino is a huge undertaking. It takes time, money and preparation. So how do you decide?

I’ve walked over 20 Caminos, volunteered in the Pilgrim Office, worked as a hospitalera and helped hundreds of pilgrims plan their own journeys. Keep reading and I’ll explain the differences between each option, so you can decide which one is right for you.

Whichever option you choose, you’ll still follow the same yellow arrows towards Santiago de Compostela.

solo pilgrim walking beside a donkey on the Camino Frances

There’s a detailed comparison of each section below which ends with an at-a-glance summary and FAQ, feel free to use the TOC above to jump to your option.

Three Ways To Walk The Camino De Santiago

To be fair, I’m saying there are only three ways to walk the Camino, because that’s not entirely true. There are countless variations. You can mix and match accommodation, carry your backpack or use luggage transfer, walk for a week or several months, and travel alone or with friends.

For this guide, though, I’m comparing the three main ways people choose to organise their Camino.

  • Independently: You organise everything yourself. You might be walking solo, as a couple, with family or with friends, but the planning is yours. Some people book all their accommodation, others prefer to stay flexible. Some carry their backpack, while others use luggage transfer. The common thread is that you’re in charge of your own Camino.
  • Self-guided: A self-guided Camino gives you the freedom of walking independently, but someone else takes care of some or all of the planning. That might be a specialist Camino company or someone like me helping you create an itinerary. You still walk at your own pace, but the logistics are largely taken care of before you arrive.
  • Guided: On a guided Camino, you’re part of an organised group led by a guide. Accommodation, transport and the daily logistics are arranged for you, and there’s always someone on hand to help if needed. Although many groups walk at their own pace during the day, you’ll usually start and finish together, sharing the experience with the rest of the group.

I’ve walked each of these Caminos and can honestly say that none are better than another. They simply offer different levels of freedom, support and planning.

Also, you don’t have to choose one way.  Maybe you’ll join a tour for the first few days, just to help find your feet, then you’ll strike out alone.  Maybe you’d like to walk part of the Camino alone but prefer a group to organise the later busier stages at the end. 

group walk along the camino frances

1. Walking The Camino Independently

If you’re considering walking independently, you’ve probably already discovered guidebooks such as the John Brierley Guides. Perhaps you’ve also found Camino websites (like Then We Walked) or apps such as Wise Pilgrim to help you plan your stages and daily distances. You may even have purchased my Camino Essentials workshops to learn the planning processes that I use myself.

Whatever resources you choose, when you walk independently, you’re responsible for organising your own Camino. Every year, thousands of pilgrims do this and safely arrive in Santiago.

Who Chooses To Walk Independently?

Walking independently appeals to people who enjoy planning their own trips and like having complete control over their journey.

Some book every night’s accommodation before leaving home, while others prefer to let the Camino unfold one day at a time. Some carry their backpack, others use luggage transfer.

There isn’t one right way to walk independently but the key is you do it yourself.

What You’re Responsible For

When you organise your own Camino, you’ll usually research and arrange:

  • Accommodation (if pre-booking)
  • Travel to and from the Camino
  • Luggage transfer (if you choose to use it)
  • Daily stages and distances (or decide on the road)
  • Training before you leave home
  • Packing and gear
  • Knowledge of local services along your route, although some free spirits just learn as they walk

Advantages

  • Usually the lowest-cost option. It is possible to keep a very tight budget and still have a wonderful Camino.
  • Complete flexibility before and during your Camino.
  • You can create an itinerary that’s entirely your own.
  • You can walk any route, at any time of year (although seasonal albergue closures are a factor).
  • You’ll gain a much deeper understanding of the route before you arrive if you do your own planning and research.
  • It’s easy to change your plans if your Camino takes an unexpected turn.
  • If you enjoy adventure, you don’t even have to plan much at all. Many pilgrims simply arrive and start walking.

Disadvantages

  • You’ll need to spend time researching and preparing, unless you feel totally comfortable with no plan at all.
  • There’s a huge amount of information online, and not all of it is good, so you need to be discerning.
  • It’s easy to overlook useful information.
  • Not all Camino routes are easy.  Not all have regular services and accommodation options, many do not have luggage transfer and many are very solitary.
  • Small planning mistakes can become expensive, such as booking accommodation well away from the Camino or buying gear you don’t need.
  • For some people, the amount of information can feel overwhelming.
  • Feels less secure for those who prefer a little more structure.

Independent Camino at a Glance

  • Typical cost: Lowest. You decide where to spend your money. The average cost of a municipal bunk is around 10€ a night and you can still find a pilgrim menu for around 15€.  Many albergue have kitchens so cooking for yourself costs even less.
  • Support: Limited; you must trust and research guidebooks, websites, apps and other pilgrims and local people on the ground (who can be very knowledgeable).  If you’d like reassurance before you book, my One-to-One Camino Chat is designed to answer exactly these kinds of questions.  Book an hour with me and we can walk through your plans and I’ll share my insights and offer suggestions to help ensure you’re on the right track.
  • Flexibility: Excellent. You decide where to stay, how far to walk and whether to change your plans.
  • Planning required: Some pilgrims (like me) spend months planning, while others simply arrive and let the Camino unfold.  Both approaches work. If you’re walking one of the quieter routes, such as the Levante, or travelling in winter, you’ll usually need to do a little more planning.
  • Social: Excellent on the more popular routes. The Camino is wonderfully social, and you’ll meet pilgrims throughout your journey.  Staying in albergues means you have no choice but to spend time with pilgrims.  On quieter routes, your Camino may well be solitary and even on popular routes out of season. I walked the Camino Portuguese in December and felt alone on the trail.
  • Best for: Independent travellers, free spirits, planners, those wishing to disconnect or push their boundaries, budget-conscious pilgrims and anyone happy to make decisions as they go.  Also perfect for those wishing to have a more solitary Camino; especially given the choice of less popular routes.
  • Less suitable for: People who feel overwhelmed by planning, want everything arranged for them, have very limited time or are nervous first-time walkers looking for additional reassurance. 

Top Tip: Walking independently doesn’t mean you’ll be walking alone but choosing the right route is important if you would like company.

solo pilgrim walking the camino de santiago beside a field of spring flowers

Independent: Questions And Concerns I Often Hear

Will I Find Accommodation And What If I Don’t?

It is true that the Camino can be busy at certain times of year, and occasionally finding a bed can be difficult. I can attest to this as I have been that pilgrim, walking far more than intended because there was no room at the inn.

Fortunately, there are several ways to reduce that risk. You can book your accommodation before leaving home, reserve a day or two ahead as you walk, or simply assess how busy the trail is once you arrive and adapt your plans accordingly.

For pinch points like the last 100kms of any trail or the start of the Camino Frances you can also jump into Self-guided options and let someone else plan that for you.

Also, it’s worth noting that there are still plenty of albergues that don’t accept reservations, and just because the private rooms are full, it doesn’t mean the bunk beds are.

And in times when there is real pressure on beds, go to the municipal and ask for help. Some towns open sports halls and even fire stations to help a pilgrim.

Will I Get Lost?

The short answer is quite possibly. I’ve certainly missed a yellow arrow from time to time. Thankfully though, the more popular Camino routes are extremely well marked. If you haven’t seen a yellow arrow or scallop shell for a while, it’s usually a sign to stop and check your route.

I use the Wise Pilgrim app when I’m unsure, but you can also ask another pilgrim, speak to a local or simply retrace your steps to the last marker.

Do I need to speak Spanish/French/Portuguese?

Not necessarily. Along the Camino you’ll find plenty of English spoken, with both pilgrims and services. And often there are natural translators in groups or nearby who will help.

I speak French and lots of Spaniards also speak French; I’ve found this useful on many occasions.  In Portugal, English is widely spoken and in France, there are usually bi-lingual folk around to help.

WhatsApp is widely used when booking accommodation, and Google Translate makes communicating much easier.

Learning a few basic phrases is always welcome, but don’t let language worries stop you walking.

Is It Safe To Walk Alone?

For many first-time pilgrims, especially women, this is one of the biggest concerns.

Overall, the Camino is considered a very safe long-distance walk, although it isn’t Nirvana, and like anywhere, it’s sensible to take normal precautions.

If you’d like extra reassurance, download the AlertCops app, connect with other pilgrims before you leave, or find a walking companion through communities such as the Camino Forum, Camino Facebook groups or Camigas.  And check your backpack, most come with a built in whistle.

On the busier routes, in spring and autumn you’ll rarely be far from other pilgrims, so if you ever feel uncomfortable it’s usually easy to walk alongside others for a while.

What Happens If I Get Injured?

If you have an emergency in Spain, dial 112 for the International Operator.

For less urgent problems, medical centres are found in most larger towns along the way. One of the things I love about the Camino is the sense of community. If you’re staying in an albergue, the hospitalero, other pilgrims and even local people will almost always do their best to help you.

colleen on her first camino in 2014
Me on my first Camino; overweight, huge pack and walking solo and having the best of days!

2. Walking The Camino With A Self-Guided Company

When I see questions online asking about self-guided tours, the answers are often 50% helpful and 50% of replies saying you don’t need it!

And whilst it’s true you do not need a company, what is also true is that some pilgrims are just too busy and have too much going on in their lives to focus on their Camino.

We’re not all the same, and the beauty of the Camino is that there’s room for all of us.

Who Chooses A Self-Guided Camino?

Self-guided means different things depending on who you choose to work with.

Some companies offer fixed packages with set stages, while others, like me, create a completely bespoke itinerary around your needs. Some offer pre-camino information, apps, meal packages and luggage transfer; some even offer 24-hour support.

For most, the self-guided option is a comfortable alternative to a tour. Your Camino is planned and booked in advance, but you’re still walking independently.

Many first-time pilgrims love this choice. Some have particular needs (like needing their own bathroom) and some have limited time with fixed schedules and just need things planned ahead.

Most people who choose to walk self-guided are looking to retain independence, but they want the logistics and concierge sorted.

What Is Usually Included (In Varying Degrees)

  • The itinerary with a plan of the stages you will walk
  • Accommodation
  • Luggage transfer
  • Pre-Camino support
  • Emergency support
  • Maps
  • App
  • Documentation

I would add that there are varying degrees of what is included. Not everyone needs all of the above, and cost is a big factor.

I plan itineraries which often have shorter stages or stages that fit a particular timescale or need.  Pilgrims aren’t looking for all the concierge services.

Advantages

  • You can leave home knowing that you have everything arranged. All you need to do is bring your bag and be confident that you have trained and are fit to start your walk.
  • If you need a private room, you know that this will be provided.  This is particularly useful when walking busy routes like the Frances or where you’re competing with tourists for beds on routes like the Norte.
  • Luggage transfers and ground transport can be included; ferries if needed (such as the Portuguese Camino).
  • Companies have local experts on the ground who can handle language issues or local problems
  • Companies often have relationships with accommodation providers that aren’t always visible on the major booking platforms.
  • You can choose to have the backup of a large, well-known company to work with.
  • You can opt to work with smaller boutique companies that know the routes more intimately.
  • There are companies and organisations that can plan for Accessible Caminos, offering very specific and targeted support.
  • You can discuss any particular concerns you have before leaving home; or even booking.

Disadvantages

  • The biggest online concern is always that the stages may not be right for you.  Many off the shelf options follow the traditional stages which do not work for all.
  • The lesser known routes such as the Via de la Plata are often not available for self-guided so you do need to choose the route carefully.
  • This choice is more expensive, and the more concierge services included, the more expensive it can become. 
  • If you are injured or sick, you may need to either jump ahead, move on or make your own alternative plans.
  • If you rely too heavily on someone else’s planning, you might miss out without doing your own research.
  • If meals are included, you might miss out on the favourite pilgrim haunts or communal meals.

Self-Guided At A Glance

  • Cost: My bespoke planning costs from as little as €250 for a 7 day Camino. You need to add hotels/bunks and luggage transfer if needed but the average is perhaps an additional 550€; you can pay more or less depending on the level of comfort you seek.

    Larger companies can charge thousands, depending on the level of support you’re willing to pay for. A straightforward solo 7 day Camino from Sarria would cost (on average) from around 1200€.
  • Support: Again, this is down to what you’re prepared to pay for.  The option certainly exists and can be a huge comfort to some travellers.
  • Flexibility: Limited but still available. Many self-guided pilgrims are very happy to stick with the standard stages and aren’t looking for too much change.  As with everything, the more you are prepared to pay, the more options you have.
  • Planning: You really don’t need to do much. I would however recommend you learn more about the area you’re visiting and still thoroughly plan your training and gear choices.  The Brierley Guides and other popular books are excellent , regardless of the type of support you choose.
  • Social: I believe this is pretty much the same as walking independently. Not all self-guided pilgrims stay in private rooms, and not all social interaction takes place in the albergue. If you’re looking for company, there are always pilgrims who’ll be happy to chat. Don’t book half board though; leave dinner plans open.  Many of my happiest camino memories take place over dinner.
  • Best for: Planners, those who are short on time, not confident in their own booking knowledge, have the budget for more help, nervous pilgrims who do not want to strike out without support. It is also a good option for clubs, friends and families, who’d like help choosing accommodation suitable for their group.
  • Less suitable for: Independent pilgrims and free birds, pilgrims needing a more bespoke or flexible plan or those on tight budgets.  Also this option is not available year round or on quieter routes which will limit your options.
a pilgrim following arrows along the camino de santiago

Self Guided: Questions And Concerns I Often Hear

Is it still independent and will I be a real pilgrim

Yes! And yes! I really dislike the term real pilgrim. After all, what is a real pilgrim? I think it’s a made-up term. The cathedral in Santiago and the Pilgrim Office will not ask you what type of bed you chose or if you had any help with the booking. So please throw that thought away!

Are you independent? Yes, if that matters to you. You are still putting one foot in front of the other. You’re simply getting some help with the logistics.  Depending on the level of self-guided services you’ve paid for, you can even book your own accommodation and plan your own luggage transfers. 

Will I Meet Other Pilgrims?

This is really down to you, the route you choose, the time of year you walk.

Self-guided simply means someone else took care of the logistics.  You can still opt to stay in albergues and you can certainly choose to pause at pilgrim cafes along the way; I’ve made friends whilst waiting for my laundry in Viana do Castelo!

If you’re walking the Camino Frances or the Camino Portuguese in May or September, you will have no problem meeting others.  If you walk in December, it will be different. 

Is it worth the money?

Only you can answer this.  I planned a 60 day Camino recently for a couple who wanted to go slow.  They’re booking their own accommodation but they wanted a plan that made sense and worked for them.  I know they feel it was invaluable.

I also have friends (I met on the Camino Primitivo) who had everything managed for them.  It was expensive but they were very happy and had no complaints.

If the only way you can walk the Camino is to use a company to help then that’s money very well spent.

Am I just paying someone to book hotels?

I was asked this very question last week.  And with me, no not at all.  I plan the route based on your needs, I recommend places to pause, how to break the day, what is worth visiting.  And we have the opportunity to talk on Zoom, allowing you to ask all manner of questions.  What I don’t offer is room booking.

Some of the larger companies will book your accommodation, breakfast if needed, luggage services and offer pre-Camino support.  And all will have extensive knowledge of the routes.

What If Something Happens And I Can’t Walk?

Last year when I walked, a lady I met injured her foot.  She tried to continue but we all knew her Camino was over.  She was walking independently, so she could simply stop and fly home.

If you have booked ahead and paid for a self-guided option, this may not be as easy. 

You must check with your company what happens if you cannot start or if you have to stop.  And you must have comprehensive travel insurance to cover your out of pocket losses.

communal dinner at Fonfria on the Camino Frances with many pilgrims around the table and lots of food and wine

3. Walking The Camino On A Guided Tour

More and more pilgrims are choosing to opt for a guided tour when they decide to walk the Camino. And not just first-time pilgrims either.

Most of us will have taken a package tour at some point in our lives; a package holiday when you were young, a family trip, a road trip in retirement, a weekend away with a local club. In simple terms, a guided tour isn’t much different from those trips.

Except it is; because it’s the Camino.

I have been on both sides of this coin. I’ve taken fully guided tours across the wilds of Africa and loved every second of it. And I’ve planned every detail of my walking club’s Camino and work hard to ensure they have the best experience on their walk.

And like everything about the Camino, different tours offer differing levels of support depending on need and budget but all include accommodation and a guide.

Who Chooses A Guided Camino?

Many first time pilgrims will choose this option.  However, from experience I know that many come back time and again if they’re happy with their experiences.

Busy people will very often choose this option because they just wouldn’t go otherwise. I once had a South African businessman join our group; he said it was the only way he would ever commit to and walk the Camino.

Nervous pilgrims might choose this option. They do not wish to walk alone and need to know that there is someone there if they need support.

I once asked on Ivar’s Camino forum how women found the courage to walk the more solitary routes, knowing that they would be alone on the trail. I’ve walked over 20 Caminos but still feel a little anxious when walking alone; I honestly do prefer to walk with company.

You should expect to pay more for this option; a guided camino is going to be more expensive than going solo.  Although I’d add that if you want a private room, sometimes taking a tour means you get the room you want at a lower cost because you’re happy to share with another solo traveller.

Top Tip: For women travelling solo, the guided tour absolutely brings in a degree of comfort and security; many tours are women only and even mixed groups have same-gender rooms

Young people, school trips, and those with disabilities will also choose a guided option.  In short, all kinds of people choose to walk a guided Camino.  I’ve led hundreds of pilgrims and my walking buddies have ranged from old rugby mates on a week away, to mother and daughter meeting ups and many solo walkers who just do not want to go alone.  They’re all still pilgrims, just walking to Santiago.

What’s Usually Included

  • A Guide, or pilgrim helper (sometimes two).
  • Accommodation; different tours offer different options and levels of comfort.  Sometimes my groups stay in albergues and sometimes we opt for very comfortable hotels.
  • Meals can be included but I would prefer just breakfast for flexibility
  • Luggage transfer
  • All logistics handled
  • Pre-camino support
  • Some will offer transfers to and from airports and along the way if needed but usually not international travel
  • Personal attention on the ground
  • I’ve seen a support vehicle on the Camino, which offers a place to pause, have a cold drink and an opportunity to get out of the sun or the rain for a while. 
  • A ready made camino family; usually of like-minded pilgrims

Advantages

  • You turn up and walk; everything is taken care of for you.
  • You need to ensure you have the required fitness but the company will usually offer support and training and packing guidance.
  • Perfect for anyone who needs additional support.
  • The guide is on the ground, and if plans change, they are there to make the changes.
  • You can shop around and find the tour that speaks most to you.  There is a lot of choice and you can narrow down what is important to find your ‘tribe’.
  • You have a team with you from the day you arrive.
  • Ideal for solo pilgrims who don’t have family or friends to walk with.

Disadvantages

  • This is the most expensive option; this is not for small budgets. I know from experience that the costs add up quickly when a guide is added.
  • You have little say in the itinerary; it is pre-planned and you opt in.
  • Guided groups operate only on the more popular routes and during the main hiking season (April to October).  If you wish to walk outside of these times or the routes less travelled, you might have to find a different option.
  • You cannot choose your tour companions or your roommate if you’re a solo traveller.  Although solo rooms may be an option for a supplement and private rooms are always shared with the same gender.
  • You might feel a little outside of the planning process and need to make the effort to research and be present during the walk.
  • You have little flexibility; you can’t take a day off as easily or start late in the day. Some organised groups do ask that you do things as a group.
  • Within a group, be it husband and wife or close friends, you tend to talk less to others around you.  This is even more true in a group situation.
  • You may not like all of your tour group.  I know from experience that some people are just not suited to travelling with a group.  A guide should help to manage this situation but this does happen.
  • Not all guides are excellent.  We’ve taken walking day tours around the world.  Some guides bring the tour to life and others can really ruin a good visit.  You need to be confident that the person leading you really is a great guide with excellent knowledge of the Camino.
  • You don’t always get to deal with problems. This sounds like a good thing, but sometimes we learn from our mistakes and how we manage them; within groups this can sometimes be so well organised that you aren’t pushed into that kind of growth.

Guided Camino At A Glance

  • Cost: Without doubt guided Caminos are the most expensive, and depending on the level of comfort, the cost will rise.  Expect to pay around 150-200€ a day for a guided camino and the more comfortable the camino, the higher that cost will go.
  • Support: Excellent; you have a guide on hand with a vast amount of knowledge and expertise.
  • Flexibility: Very Limited, but some groups allow a little independence. I actively encouraged my groups to break out alone.  But the route, accommodation and times can sometimes be fixed.
  • Planning: Not required for the walk, but do still research and get fit!  Read Camino books and find blogs like Then We Walked to learn more about the history and places of interest along the way.
  • Social: Great if you have a good group. I know my groups have become firm friends and go on to do other walks together. 
  • Best for: Anyone who has the budget and is happy to let someone else plan everything. Also ideal for solo travellers who do not wish to walk alone (and will not walk without company). Anyone with additional needs where the extra support is needed.
  • Less suitable for: Anyone who wants more control, has less budget or prefers to make their own choices.  Not ideal if you wish to walk the less travelled routes or out of season.
Then We Walking Club at the enormous yellow arrow marker outside Esposende

Guided Tour: Questions And Concerns I Often Hear

Will I Be Rushed?

I want to say no, but a common complaint for this kind of Camino has been that people are worried they’ll be left behind.

Walking in a group is extremely difficult. Walking as a married couple is difficult. I walk faster than Gerry but he is always faster on a hill.  You do need to check how the group walk is planned and if it’s OK to walk slowly and alone at your own pace.

Most companies have no issue with you walking your way, but just check in advance before booking.

Will I Have Free Time?

Again this is down to the company and their itinerary.

If the day is long, you might find you arrive, shower and head right to dinner. Some itineraries do not allow for shorter days or rest days.

As cost is a major factor, some companies do not add in rest days, or will merge shorter days to move the group along.  I have previously asked my walking club if they would rather walk 2 x 14km days or go for one long 28km day.  The answer varies with the group.

You do need to check the itinerary closely and if this is a big concern, maybe a self-guided option is more for you.

Can I Still Get A Compostela?

The Cathedral in Santiago dictates who is entitled to receive their Compostela.  The rules are concerning the walking.  You are required to walk 100 kilometres; more if you use bicycles or horses.

There are no rules which mention beds or packs or how you booked or indeed who you walked with.

If the Compostela is an important part of your Camino, choosing to walk with a tour, self-guided or independently has no bearing on its issue.

Will I Walk With The Same People?

Again this is down to the company. From experience, in my groups, folks often pair up and find their best friend to walk with, but they also walk with others, alone and with strangers.

Indeed Gerry and I will also walk like this. I do know of other groups where this is discouraged, as they try to keep the group together.

I strongly believe the Camino needs an element of alone time and thinking time. Choose which option you’re most comfortable with but do ask the question.

What Happens If I Get Sick Or Injured?

This is a very valid point and again it is something your tour company should answer.  I have had this happen in my group and we were able to make alternative arrangements for the person to ensure they didn’t miss out. 

You might need to take a taxi if you are unable to walk the following day.  The guide will probably take you to a medical centre or hospital (depending on need). 

You also have to consider how you would feel if you had to go home.  I have fallen and my Camino was over.  Likewise I’ve been sick and had to stop.  If you’ve joined a tour there is no refund.  In which case, excellent comprehensive travel insurance is a must!

What Happens If I Can’t Go?

This sadly has happened to a few of those who booked with me.  The only recourse you will have, if it is close to the departure date, is to call on your Travel Insurance.  Depending on the policy, you may be able to claim for your lost expenses.

But no matter how good the insurance, not all out of pocket expenses are covered and sadly that is the nature of travel.

walking out of St Jean on day one of the camino

Common Myths About Guided and Self-Guided Caminos

I started Then We Walked because I walked 800 kilometres solo with my pack, I stayed in albergues, ate with strangers, had all kinds of problems and yet the woman who ended was not the woman who started and it changed my life.

However, if I had listened to all the naysayers who felt I was making a mistake, I might never have reached St Jean Pied de Port, let alone Santiago.

So many people say to me I’d love to walk the camino but… and proceed to tell me why they cannot.  Often it’s because they feel there is only one way to walk

I don’t care how folks choose to walk.  I care that they step out on to this beautiful trail and if they gain just a little of what I did then I will be happy. 

A Real Pilgrim Carries Their Own Backpack

Do they? I have never seen an image of St James carrying a pack. Indeed, when I see images of medieval pilgrims, rarely are they carrying anything.

I read once that pilgrims are meant to suffer, so we should carry the pack. My response was that we have no idea what suffering or sacrifice it has taken just to reach the start and take the first steps.

If not being able to carry a bag, or afford some of the Camino gear,  is an issue for you, then don’t worry.

Walk the Camino, send your bag ahead, wear the clothes you wear when you walk at home and just enjoy the glory of the trail!

Using A Tour Company Is Cheating

The last time I checked the rules for the credential, they only mentioned walking and collecting Sello in the Credential. There is no mention of beds or services.

Whilst some people may use words like cheating, or tourgrino, in my heart I feel it says more about their pilgrimage than yours.

Walk. Enjoy the nature, respect the environment, the culture and the local people. Visit the cathedral, talk to strangers, leave no trace but do not worry about cheating!

You’ll Miss The Real Camino

Again I would ask, what is the real Camino? Many people will tell you that the Camino doesn’t even start until you go home.

For me the Camino is the trail. It’s the glorious nature of the world we live in. It’s walking with people from around the world. It’s listening to my thoughts and trying to make sense of the world. It’s about understanding and removing judgement, it’s about sharing, communal meals and respect.  And yes, for many, it’s about a man called James who came to Spain to spread the Gospels.

I’m very good at planning Caminos, and I love taking care of my groups, but even I know that I cannot offer or include any of the things I just listed; no tour can.

Prepare yourself, train yourself and remove expectation. Walk, talk to pilgrims, slow down and watch the path unfold. For me, that’s where the real Camino lies.

Only Inexperienced People Use Tours

Well, I’m inexperienced then. And I don’t mind.

Maybe the fact that you recognise this in yourself is a good thing. Maybe you are saying, the Camino is far more than the bed I sleep in. I want to experience what happens between sleeping and waking, so I’m happy for someone else to organise the beds.

Everyone Should Stay In Albergues

Gerry says he’s reached an age when he deserves his own bathroom, and a lot of folks agree. I also know he snores, and I know I’ve saved a few fellow pilgrims from a sleepless night.

Should you stay in albergues? Honestly, I would say give it a go. Try a few. You might surprise yourself.

Do you have to spend every night in an albergue? No.

And if you’re lucky, you’ll find my favourite kind of accommodation; a pilgrim hostel with private rooms.

And even if you know that you really do prefer hotel accommodation, these days, even in the Paradors, you’ll bump into the pilgrims you’ve been walking with during the day.

colleen with pilgrims at the 100 kilometre marker on the Camino Frances

Which Way Is Right For You?  Solo, Self-Guided Or A Tour?

I hope if you’ve read this far that you realise, for me at least, the way you organise the logistics of your Camino is not important.

Walking is the important part.  Using your Camino to fully immerse yourself in the company of pilgrims or the culture of Spain or even to lose yourself in your own thoughts; that is important.

Where and how you choose your bed should not be the thing that stops you.  

I have walked so many routes across France, Spain and Portugal and I have loved them all. I know it sounds so cliché, but the Camino did change my life and it continues to shape who I am.

The world can sometimes be noisy and all we need is to walk in the company of like minded people and feel part of a moving community; no matter how big or small.  The Camino can be the calm that we all need.

St James isn’t interested in whether you stayed in a bunk bed or a Parador and he doesn’t care what you carry on your back, but what’s in your heart.

The Camino is a trail for everyone.  If I can spend the next twenty years telling people to come and walk and just a handful do, then I will be happy.

Whichever way you choose; just walk.

pilgrims walking in the valley to Los Arcos in print with green wheat fields either side of the trail

Need Help Deciding?

If you’d like a helping hand I offer a range of services which can help you on your way.

  • Camino Essentials: My online workshops that cover everything I wish I knew before my first walk and all that I’ve learned after more than a decade of walking. 
  • Camino Chat: One to One Hour with me where you can ask me anything about your travel plans, your itinerary or your concerns
  • Personalised Itinerary and Planning: Let me plan a bespoke itinerary with you.  You still book the accommodation of your choice, but I can use my expertise to plan a route that fits your needs.
Colleen hiking with her Osprey pack on the Camino Frances

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

MondialCare : Due to increasing limitations, mainly due to age, we have recently switched to MondialCare for our travel insurance. We have taken an annual policy at a very reasonable cost that includes medical and other travel cover. There are no trip length limits and the upper age for cover is 84. For Camino walkers and travel in Europe they have a low cost Schengen policy with no age limit.

TrueTraveller : We have used this policy and were very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Author : Colleen Sims

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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