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Pilgrim Food on the Camino: Fabulous Menus, Local Flavours & Special Diets

Created by Colleen | Updated : 22 February 2025 | Camino-de-Santiago

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One of my greatest pleasures when walking the Camino was finding the only open bar in the grey light of early morning, munching on my tostada with mantequilla and mermelada, washed down with a steaming café con leche grande. The simple pleasures of life on the road.

Sadly, my favourite pilgrim breakfast is just a memory; living with Celiac disease means bread is off the menu. But gluten aside, what can you expect from food on the Camino? And how do you manage special diets while walking across Spain?

I’ve read a lot of bad press about Camino meals and I’m here to wave the flag for the fabulous food you’ll find. I’ve been walking the Camino for 12 years and visiting Spain for over 40. Don’t listen to the naysayers, Spain has a glorious culinary history; you just need to sniff it out!

food menu on a chalk board, fixed on a wall of a bar, somewhere along the Camino

Table of Contents

What To Expect From Food On The Camino?

Spain is a large and diverse country, with landscapes ranging from mountain villages to hot plains and miles and miles of coastline. Its rich history has shaped its cuisine, with influences from many cultures. The Moors, in particular, left a lasting mark, especially in the south, introducing spices, almonds, and slow-cooked stews that still feature in Spanish cooking today.

I often hear pilgrims say they’re disappointed with Camino food, and honestly, I’m puzzled. There’s so much incredible food to enjoy along the way. But if you only stick to pilgrim menus, you might miss out on some of Spain’s best flavours.

We travel the world, and part of that joy is discovering new food. Spain is no exception, and Gerry embraces local cuisine with much enthusiasm. It’s true, he’s a huge foodie, and much of this post reflects his love of regional dishes.

I also enlisted the help of a fellow pilgrim (thanks, Linda!), who, like Gerry, also adores Spanish food.

But as someone who is gluten-free, I understand the challenges that come with eating while traveling. So, throughout this post, I’ll included helpful notes for Celiacs, ensuring that if you’re gluten-free, you can still eat well and safely while walking the Camino.

Download or view our FREE list of Accommodation on the Camino Frances, complete with links and contact details for Albergue, Casa Rurals and Hotels

sharing cheese platter from the tapas menu on the Camino

A Typical Day of Eating on the Camino

We’ve been visiting Spain since the 1980s and have seen a lot of changes over the years. Today, Spain is a culinary powerhouse, with modern chefs staying true to regional specialties while also pushing creative boundaries.

But just as importantly, many older chefs have spent a lifetime perfecting traditional dishes, and you’ll find glorious, lesser-known eateries in the smallest of places.

As a pilgrim, the food you eat is often very different than the dishes served in Spain’s top restaurants, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t great food to be found.

So, what can you expect?

What’s for Breakfast on The Camino?

Breakfast on the Camino is usually simple. The toast is often yesterday’s baguette, but even so, I have fond memories of my morning tostada. Gluten-free bread just doesn’t have the same bite!

Albergue : If breakfast is included, it’s usually toast and jam. Sometimes, there are pre-packaged cakes (Gerry calls them later cake, because they’re better saved for later). You might also find fruit, yogurt, or even eggs; depending on the accommodation. In Estella, Hostel Agora serves a breakfast tray with cereal, juice, and toast.
Casa Rural and Small Hotels : You’ll often have more choice, like eggs, ham, cured meats, and cheese, sometimes with slice of quince jam (membrillo), which pairs beautifully with Spanish cheese.
Hotels : The Parador in León has an amazing breakfast! Many hotels also offer gluten-free bread and cakes, but always mention Celiac when booking if breakfast is included.

GF Tip : Breakfast is one of the hardest meals for a Celiac or Gluten-Free pilgrims. I always carry a loaf of GF bread in lunch box to keep it fresh and protected from crumbling.

You probably won’t find a Full English breakfast or freshly made granola or overnight oats, but that doesn’t mean you won’t find something delicious.

The last time I walked from Logroño, I found an amazing breakfast stop near the Cathedral, serving an array of breakfast tapas. Often, you can follow your nose and discover a bakery serving warm, fresh-baked goods alongside a hot coffee.

Other dishes that you may find on a Spanish breakfast table or in a bar or café en route include :

Tortilla Española : A classic Spanish omelette made with potatoes and eggs (gluten-free). You can also order Tortilla Francesa, which is closer to a traditional omelette.
Pastries : Especially in Portugal, where Pastel de Nata is a must. Pastries are off-limits for me, but Gerry says they are sweeter than the French versions and often sugar-glazed; not that it ever stops him ordering!
Yogurt : Often brands you may not recognise and it tends to be sweeter than I’d prefer.
Fresh Fruit : There’s usually fresh fruit, and sometimes fruit salad. A hotel in Ponte de Lima, Portugal, served the juiciest peaches I’ve ever eaten and I could have happily finished the whole bowl!
Churros & Hot Chocolate : If you’re lucky, you might find churros. Gerry has a nose for these, though he usually saves them for the afternoon. The first time he walked the Camino, he met me in Logroño, and five minutes after leaving he found a churros truck.
Pan con Tomate : If jam isn’t your thing, you’ll often find olive oil and tomato on toast. You’ll see little packets of oil and tomato paste next to the butter and jam.
Café Con Leche : Ask for this if you want a milky coffee. Ask for grande if you want large, and I often mime a ‘big cup’ with a smile. Soy or alternative milk is available about 50% of the time. If not, go for an Americano which is a black coffee. And if you’re lucky, it will arrive with a tiny cake on the side.

Whatever you have for breakfast, make sure to eat and drink something. You never know when you’ll find your next stop, so stock up while you can!

breakfast menu in Logrono on the Camino Frances

Lunch Choices on the Camino

I’m not big on lunch when I’m walking. I like to graze my way along, eating something light every couple of hours, and I look forward to a good dinner to fill me up.

Gerry, on the other hand, loves to savour his lunch. He’s always looking for a bar full of locals, regional cuisine and a glass of the local wine. This is one of the reasons we book our beds ahead of time, so he can linger and embrace the lunch experience.

Lunch can be whatever you want, a simple bocadillo, a selection of tapas, or a full Menú del Día.

Top Tip : Many pilgrims will stop at the first bar they see, and that’s great if you just need a drink. But if you’re looking for good food, we often check Google Map reviews; sometimes, the best places where the locals eat, are just a few steps off the Camino.

Here are few things you could choose for a lighter lunch.

Tortilla Patata : A Spanish omelette with potatoes and eggs. I love this so much I’ve learned to make it at home. One pilgrim I walked with made it her mission to find the best tortilla on the Camino. We decided the tiny pilgrim café a kilometre or two after Alto de Perdón was the best, though there’s another spot outside Castromaior that serves the biggest slice ever!
Patatas Bravas : Fried potatoes with spicy tomato sauce & aioli. I was once told that a bar in Spain rises and falls depending how good the Bravas are. Some places serve basic chips with spicy ketchup, but the best ones have crispy-on-the-outside, soft-on-the-inside potatoes with homemade, fiery sauce. They aren’t always gluten-free, so check before ordering!
Pimientos de Padrón : Small green peppers, cooked in olive oil and salted, originally from the monastery in Herbón, near Padrón on the Portuguese Camino. I’ve never had a truly spicy one, but Gerry did in Combarro and he avoided them for years after. I still love them though and they’re gluten free.
Croquetas : Fried croquettes filled with jamón, cheese, mushrooms, or fish. A staple on most menus and one of Gerry’s go-to light bites. Not gluten-free, but a great, inexpensive choice.
Albondigas : Spanish meatballs in tomato sauce, often homemade. They’re a common menu item and can be ordered as a full plate or small tapa. Check for gluten, as some places use flour in the mix.
Gambas al Ajillo : Prawns sizzling in garlic & olive oil. There’s a little bar in A Guarda, looking over the harbour, that cooks these to perfection. The smell alone is mouthwatering!
Pulpo a la Gallega : Galician-style octopus with paprika and olive oil. Melide is the place to try it, though you’ll find it all across Spain. I’m allergic to molluscs, but it’s often paired with chorizo and is GF-friendly.
Boquerones en Vinagre : White anchovies marinated in vinegar, garlic, and parsley and one of Gerry’s favourite tapas. If you’re on the Camino del Norte, stop in Santoña; the town is famous for its anchovy industry, and you’ll find some of the best.
Chorizo a la Sidra : Chorizo cooked in Asturian cider; oh, how I love this dish! If you’re walking the Camino Primitivo, you’ll find a lot of cider-based dishes. I’ve even started cooking my chorizo at home with cider or sherry as it adds a beautiful caramelized flavour.
Queso Manchego : Aged Manchego cheese, often served with quince paste (membrillo). Manchego is strong, and I remember one time on the Via de la Plata, the cheese in my sandwich was so strong that my mouth tingled for hours! It’s glorious melted on toast and the quince balances the flavour well.
Jamón Ibérico : Thinly sliced Iberian cured ham. This is Spain on a plate, add cheese and olives, and a glass of wine and you’ve got a perfect lunch!
Morcilla de Burgos : A black pudding with rice, typical of Castilla y León. I’m not the biggest black pudding fan, but I do like the crunch from the rice and the spices they add. It’s fried, which gives it a better texture than the softer versions elsewhere.
Bocadillo : A baguette filled with ham, cheese, egg, tuna or even tortilla. I’ve even seen them with a small pork chop inside! They’re cheap, filling, and often big enough to share. If you see York Ham as an option, that’s more akin to the ham you might be used to.
Empanada Gallega : Savory Galician pastry, usually filled with tuna, meat, or vegetables. Some places sell big trays cut into portions, while others serve individual empanadas (more like a Cornish pasty).

Are You Planning To Walk The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked the Camino Frances 8 times over the last 11 years.

With so much knowledge I decided to create free comprehensive daily guides for every Stage of the Camino Frances. Click the button below to find the stages from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela.

Camino Frances Daily Stage Guides

Gerry's sandwich from a cafe along the Camino Portuguese

Linda’s Lunch Favourites

My friend Linda has walked many Caminos, solo, as a guide and as a Camino mentor, she even joined me on my very first Then We Walked escorted Camino! She is the author of Somewhere Slowly and like Gerry, she loves discovering great food along the way and here are just a few of her favourite lunches :

Gazpacho : Manna from heaven on a hot day! You can often find this chilled soup, made of raw blended vegetables and tomatoes, in the tienda chiller. Grab some shade, and enjoy it with that stale piece of bread you’ve been carrying; dunking delicious!
Cebreiro Cheese : This soft, creamy cheese from Galicia is usually served with honey or membrillo (or even better, a bit of both!). You’ll often find it on dessert menus and it’s a great way to get some extra protein compared to an ice cream.
Zamburiñas : The smaller, cheaper cousins of the scallop, typically grilled with oil, salt, and sometimes garlic; simple and delicious!
Arepas : Stuffed cornmeal flatbreads can be found along the Camino. In Arzúa, we had them stuffed with spicy chicken, peppers, and avocado. If made traditionally, they should be gluten-free, but always ask first.

This is just a small selection of the amazing lighter lunch options available on the Camino. And I haven’t even started on full Menús del Día or regional specialties; but we’ll get to those later!

Lunch can be anything you choose it to be. When we walked the Camino Aragonés, Gerry wanted to test his Spanish. In a tiny village bar, he asked for dos huevos fritos con patata—and ten minutes later, two plates of perfectly cooked egg and chips arrived. He grinned from ear to ear; sometimes, the simplest meals are the best!

Linda's favourite seafood dish whilst on the Camino

Pilgrim Menu and Other Dinner Options on the Camino

As much as I prefer grazing my way along the trail during the day, I look forward to a hearty meal when I arrive. Sometimes, if the timing works, I’ll have a very late lunch and skip dinner, but other times I’ll go for a Pilgrim Menu or go à la carte for a something different.

The Timing Challenge: Spanish Dinners Are Late

Here’s the rub, dinner is served late in Spain. Many restaurants don’t open until 8:30 PM, but pilgrims are tucked up in bed by 10 PM so 9 PM is far too late for an evening meal.

On busier routes like the Camino Francés, you’ll usually find Pilgrim Menus served at 7 PM. But on quieter routes, it’s harder. I remember one time on the Via de la Plata, Maggie and I raided a petrol station shop for dinner and ate so many E-numbers that we couldn’t sleep half the night!

Thankfully Portugal doesn’t have the same issues; but it’s something to be aware of and plan accordingly in Spain.

Timing issues aside, here are some of the amazing dishes you might find for dinner; and remember that a pilgrim menu offers three courses so plates wont be overloaded!

1. First Plate (Primeros Platos)

These are often lighter dishes; soups, salads or vegetable-based options. Often there will be a pasta dish on this menu too and restaurants will usually let you order two first plates instead of a second.

Ensalada Mixta : Mixed salad with lettuce, tomato, onion, olives, boiled egg, and tuna. Some are basic with lots of iceberg lettuce, while others include beetroot, carrots, and all manner of tasty extras.
Sopa de Ajo : Garlic soup, sometimes with a poached egg. It can contain bread or noodles, so check if you’re gluten-free.
Lentejas : Lentil stew with chorizo or vegetables. I love this and there are all kinds of variations and often vegetarian but check first.
Gazpacho / Salmorejo : Cold tomato soups; Salmorejo is thicker, often topped with ham and egg.
Pisto Manchego : This is basically a Spanish ratatouille, a mix of tomatoes, peppers, onions, and courgette.
Revuelto de Espárragos / Setas / Gambas : Revuelto is Scrambled eggs with asparagus or wild mushrooms or shrimp. I’ve seen other variations when walking but this scrambled eggs dish is also a good option for a light lunch too.
Ensaladilla Rusa : Spanish potato salad with tuna, mayonnaise, eggs, vegetables and peas. I love this but always check if you have a shellfish allergy as it can contain extras like crab.
Fabada Asturiana : Rich white bean stew with morcilla (blood sausage) and chorizo (more common in the north). This is another of Gerry’s favourite but a bit too authentic for this vegetable loving pilgrim.
Caldo Gallego : A Galician soup made with greens, potatoes, and sometimes ham and chorizo but you can find it with just veggies. I make this at home and it’s fabulous.

hot soup on a cold day, part of a pilgrim menu on the Camino

2. Main Courses (Segundos Platos)

The main dish is usually meat, fish, or protein-based, served with homemade chips, rice, or in Portugal, both! Many places now offer a vegetarian option, especially on Pilgrim Menus.

Fish and meat feature heavily on Spanish menus but don’t expect huge portions, often as you’re eating three courses the plates might be smaller than you’re used to.

Sepia a la Plancha : Grilled cuttlefish is a seafood specialty on the Camino del Norte. If you’re allergic to Mollusc this is a no-no
Calamares a la Romana : Deep-fried squid rings, often served with lemon.
Rabo de Toro : Oxtail stew, slow-cooked in red wine sauce. I’ll give you three guesses who loves this dish!
Carrilleras de Cerdo : Pork cheeks, melt-in-your-mouth tender after slow cooking. This is wonderful if cooked well but if they get it wrong the texture can be off. But it’s a popular dish in Spain so expect a good one.
Chuletillas de Cordero : Grilled lamb chops, common in Castilla y León. Lamb is a staple in Spain and it’s usually cooked very well. These are small chops so don’t expect a huge plate but very tasty nonetheless.
Paella de Mariscos : Seafood paella, though more common in Valencia than the Camino routes but some of the albergue will offer this as a communal meal. In Hornillos del Camino both albergues offer this as their communal meal; but which one is best?
Filete de Ternera – Grilled veal steak and a staple on many pilgrim menus. Again, don’t expect a huge steak but it’s enough for a pilgrim menu.
Pollo Asado : Roast or grilled chicken; Pollo a la Plancha is my favourite. It’s usually available and a good staple if you’re looking for something simple. Usually served with fries or rice or salad (or all three in Portugal).
Albóndigas – Spanish meatballs in a rich tomato sauce. This can also be a tapas but as a main course you usually have a larger portion and it comes with rice or chips. And check if they are GF as sometimes, they use flour in the cooking.
Bacalao a la Vizcaína : Salt cod in a red pepper sauce, popular in northern Spain and almost a national dish in Portugal. This isn’t my favourite but if you’re a fish lover then this is a must.
Pimientos Rellenos : Stuffed red peppers, sometimes with meat, seafood, or cheese. I had this in Navarrette on my second Camino. Mine were stuffed with squid and it’s where I discovered I was allergic. Gerry looked at me and asked if I was making a funny face on purpose; I wasn’t but my face was swelling!
Merluza a la Plancha : Grilled hake is a popular addition to the pilgrim menu. It’s usually well cooked and seasoned and makes a great lighter option.
Conejo al Ajillo – Rabbit cooked with garlic and white wine. Gerry would 100% choose this from a menu. Very rustic and very Spanish (and Maltese!) and if you love regional food you’ll enjoy this dish.

A Pilgrim menu will usually offer 3 or 4 of these options, and one is usually vegetarian. I always ask which are gluten free. Once when there were no GF options they made me a grilled plancha of vegetables which was fabulous!

Don’t be afraid to ask for assistance as I’ve found Spanish restaurants to be very helpful. And if all else fails there is always chicken a la plancha!

Fish cooking on the BBQ in a restaurant in Santiago

3. Desserts (Postres)

The Menu del Día or Pilgrim Menu always includes a dessert; it’s simple and can be homemade (a la casa) or store-bought. There’s always a choice, though less for gluten-free options and sometimes my choice is a piece of fruit.

Flan : Caramel custard; fingers crossed it will be home made
Natillas : A very Spanish-style pudding with vanilla custard and a biscuit on top and sometimes on the bottom. This isn’t GF.
Tarta de Santiago – Almond cake from Galicia, sometimes you can get a chocolate version too! But don’t be fooled into thinking this is always gluten free. It is not. I happily ate a slice with my breakfast in the Parador in Santiago; overlooking the cathedral and thinking this is the life! Until the waiter told me that they add wheat flour to theirs! Always ask before eating your almond tart!
Arroz con Leche – Spanish rice pudding with cinnamon; if this is homemade it should be gluten free and I do love a nice rice pudding.

delicious strawberry tart for dessert on the Camino

How to Find Vegetables on the Menu In Spain

I hear so often that there are no vegetables in Spain but that is simply not true! That said, Spaniards don’t pile vegetables on the plate in the way we might expect at home.

If you want more veggies, step away from the €12 Pilgrim Menu and order a few extras! Just walk through any local market, there’s a fabulous market in Santiago de Compostela, and you’ll see stalls overflowing with incredible fresh produce. Rest assured, with its diverse landscape and climate, Spanish food is full of fruit and vegetables if you know what to look for.

Ensalada Mixta : The classic Spanish salad with lettuce, tomatoes, onions, olives, tuna, and boiled egg. Ask for it sin atún if you don’t want tuna. On a Pilgrim Menu, it can be a basic salad but order it as a separate main dish, and you’ll often get a heartier version with a host of extras.
Pisto Manchego : Spain’s version of ratatouille, made with peppers, tomatoes, courgettes, garlic and onions. Can be served with a fried egg on top.
Menestra de Verduras : A vegetable stew, common in Navarra & La Rioja, often with artichokes, green beans, and peas or whatever is in season. Another of my favourites and this is often on the pilgrim menu as a first plate. It’s a hearty thick soup and I’d order this every time!
Espárragos Blancos : White asparagus, often served with olive oil or mayonnaise. I have to say I’m not a fan of the white stuff, especially if it’s out of a tin but if you find some seasonal green asparagus it’s a glorious thing!
Champiñones al Ajillo : Garlic mushrooms, sometimes served as a tapa or ración, simple and always full of flavour!
Revuelto de Espárragos o Setas : Scrambled eggs with asparagus or mushrooms; order this with a side of other veggies and you have a wonderful lunch.
Sopa de Verduras : Vegetable soup is pretty much always on the menu in one form or another. Usually always made with whatever is growing fresh and in season.
Pimientos de Padrón : We’ve already mentioned these, cooked in Olive Oil and salt, they’re often on the menu and make a great addition to any meal and also good for sharing.
Espinacas con Garbanzos : A spinach & chickpea stew, more common in southern Spain but chickpeas and lentils appear often on menus. In Viana the café there will serve you hummus with a plate of freshly cut veggies on the side!
Patatas a lo Pobre : sliced potatoes, cooked in oil with green peppers and onions. This is such a wonderfully simple dish that I made them at home. One year we had a glut of potatoes from our veg garden so I froze batches of it and we ate them for a year!
Berenjenas con Miel : Fried eggplant (aubergine) drizzled with honey, a very Moorish-inspired dish. There are many Moorish influences in Spanish cooking and this is definitely worth a try!
Alcachofas a la Plancha : Grilled artichokes are one of my favourites, but be warned; if you eat a big bowl of them, you might end up with an upset tummy (they aren’t called Fartichokes for nothing)! They are absolutely delicious, but a small tapas portion is probably enough!
Tomate Aliñado – Sliced tomatoes with olive oil, salt, and herbs. Gerry loves tomatoes and these are wonderful. So simple but so satisfying.
Verduras A La Plancha: Many places offer grilled veggies such as onion, roasted peppers, and courgettes. The last plate I had was fresh from their garden and it was excellent!
Pizza : Don’t forget that Spain has some glorious pizza restaurants too. Adding extra veggies to a pizza is an easy way to get your greens. And many places offer gluten-free bases, especially in larger towns and cities, so it’s worth searching.

Finding vegetables on the Camino isn’t impossible, but they don’t come piled on your plate by default; especially not on the Pilgrim Menu. But we need to ask ourselves, what do you expect for a €12 euro pilgrim menu? That price gets you three courses, bread, and wine; which offers incredible value!

If you want more veggies, look for salads, stews, soups, grilled options, or tapas-style orders and order a few extra vegetables on the side. Fresh fruit and vegetables are everywhere; it’s just a matter of knowing what to order and where to find them.

there is fabulous food on the camino; this is a platter of fresh veggies from the garden of the albergue

Pinchos and Tapas

In the film The Way, as Tom reunites with Joost in Pamplona, he orders tapas, only to be corrected by the waiter. But, the explanation isn’t entirely accurate.

While it’s true that pintxos are more of a Basque tradition, there’s actually a lot of crossover between the two. Here’s how they differ:

Pintxos (Pinchos)

More common in the Basque Country, Navarra, La Rioja, and northern regions.
Usually small portions of food, often skewered alone or on a piece of bread (pintxo means spike or skewer in Basque).
In San Sebastián and Pamplona, pintxos are almost an art form, with annual competitions to find the best of the best!

Tapas

Traditional throughout Spain, but especially in Andalucía, Madrid, and central & southern regions.
Often displayed on the bar and served on a small plate. In many places, a free tapa comes with a drink.
Not always served on bread—common tapas include patatas bravas, olives, jamón, croquetas, or tortilla española.
Want a bigger portion? Many places offer Media ración (half plate) and Ración (full plate)

Where to Find The Best Tapas on The Camino?

If you’re walking the Camino Francés and spending time (or a night) in Logroño, then Calle Laurel is a must! I know that eating tapas can be tricky if you’re gluten-free, but it’s not impossible; and let’s be honest, the wine is definitely GF, as is the atmosphere!

Logroño is renowned for its tapas scene, but it’s far from the only place along the Camino where you can enjoy an evening of delicious pintxos and tapas. Bilbao, San Sebastian, even Santiago de Compostela all boasts a thriving tapas culture.

And, many popular tapas streets host annual competitions, where bars showcase their best creations. If you’re lucky enough to be around, you can visit different bars, sample the best, and vote for your favourite!

Best Tapas & Pintxos Streets on the Camino and What to Try!

Bilbao (Camino del Norte) – Casco Viejo & Plaza Nueva
Try: Gilda (anchovy, olive & pickled pepper skewer) – The original pintxo from San Sebastián!

Lugo (Camino Primitivo) – Praza do Campo
Try: Lacón con grelos – A classic Galician dish of pork shoulder & turnip greens.

Santiago de Compostela – Rúa do Franco
Try: Pulpo a la Gallega – Galicia’s famous octopus with paprika & olive oil.

A Coruña (Camino Inglés) – Calle de la Barrera
Try: Zamburiñas – Small, delicious Galician scallops, often grilled.

Pontevedra (Camino Portugués) – Plaza de las Cinco Rúas
Try: Empanada Gallega – A savory pie filled with tuna, meat, or vegetables.

Oviedo (Camino Primitivo) – Calle Gascona (known as Cider Boulevard)
Try: Cachopo – A giant Asturian-style schnitzel stuffed with cheese & ham.

Pamplona (Camino Francés) – Calle Estafeta
Try: Txistorra – A spicy, thin Basque sausage, perfect with sidra.

León (Camino Francés) – Barrio Húmedo
Try: Morcilla de León – Blood sausage with rice & spices, usually grilled.

Burgos (Camino Francés) – Calle Sombrerería & Plaza Mayor
Try: Queso de Burgos – A soft, fresh cheese, great with honey or quince.

Mérida (Via de la Plata) – Calle Sagasta and Plaza Espagne
Try: Presa Ibérica – Juicy Iberian pork, cooked simply to showcase its flavor.

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plate of iberica ham for sharing from the tapas menu

Eating Like a Local: A Few Spanish & Portuguese Eating Customs

We all know that the French love their lunch! Living in France, it took us a while to adjust, but after nearly 20 years here, we’ve fully embraced long, leisurely meals as part of daily life.

But in Spain and Portugal, things work a little differently. Portugal’s mealtimes are closer to British habits—more flexible and predictable. But in Spain, meal schedules and eating customs can easily catch you out! If you’re used to early dinners or expect fast service, you might need to adjust your expectations.

So, how do you eat like a local and avoid sticking out as a confused pilgrim?

1. Spanish Meal Times

If you’re walking the Camino in Spain, expect later mealtimes than you might be used to:

Desayuno (Breakfast) : Light and simple, usually toast, coffee or maybe a pastry.
Almuerzo (Mid-Morning Snack) : A quick break for a snack, maybe a small bocadillo, tortilla, or pastry.
Comida (Lunch) : The biggest meal of the day, usually between 2 PM – 4 PM. Many businesses close for siesta, so expect long, leisurely lunches with multiple courses and shops to be closed until 5 PM.
Merienda (Afternoon Snack) : You’ll often see locals filling up bars and cafes in the late afternoon, refuelling with something sweet or light, like churros or a pastry. I love this time of day and I LOVE this custom. I want to live in Spain so that I can meander out in the afternoon and meet my neighbours and friends, and chat over a coffee or a wine, and nibble something wonderful too!
Cena (Dinner) : In Spain, dinner doesn’t start before 8:30 PM and in cities, people often eat later. If you’re a pilgrim needing early nights, you may struggle to find food in smaller towns on the quieter trails. On the busier routes it’s usually not a problem.

2. Portugal is much more relaxed!

We find that in Portugal their meal times are more aligned to what we’re familiar with so it’s never been an issue. But often finding breakfast can be, so check the night before, eat at your accommodation or stop as soon as you see an open café!

Lunchtime is typically 12:30 PM – 2:30 PM.
Dinner service starts from 7 PM, making it easier for pilgrims.

3. Order Like a Local in Spain

When you sit down to eat, things might be unfamiliar so here are a few terms that might help :

Menú del Día (Menu of the Day) – A set-price meal (often €10–15) that includes two or three courses, bread, a drink (wine or water), and sometimes dessert or coffee. This is great value and a popular choice for locals.
Platos Combinatos : I introduced Gerry to this option which was a mistake as he now seeks them out! They’re a large lunch time meal, perfect if you only want one plate and often include a lot of meat, chips and an egg!
Ración – A larger portion than tapas, often a full plate and very often ordered for sharing. If you’re in a group, order a few raciones and split them.
Media Ración – A half portion, perfect if you want to try more than one dish
Tapas & Pintxos – Smaller bites, typically eaten standing at the bar with a drink or at a small table on a stool.

Top Tip : If you’re presented with the more expensive à la carte menu ask if a menú del día is available

huge tortilla patata, you'll always find this food on the Camino

4. What’s Included? (And What’s Not!)

In Spain and in France, the price you see on the menu is usually the price you pay. For a Menu de Jour or Menu del Dia and very often a Pilgrim menu you’ll have a bread with your meal and wine or water.

If you order extra, or want beer or soft drinks or fizzy water you’ll pay extra but basically you can have a very good meal for maybe 15 euros in total!

In Portugal, extras aren’t free. And this is really important. You’ll often get a basket of bread, olives, or cheese brought to the table, but these are not complimentary. If you eat them they’ll be added to your bill. So check before you tuck in.

If you don’t want to be charged, just politely say no when they place the items on the table.

5. Avoiding Tourist Restaurants

It’s really not fair to say that all tourist or pilgrim-friendly restaurants are bad, there are many many fabulous places that cater just for pilgrims that I return to again and again. But sometimes check to be sure they aren’t a little overpriced or a little underwhelming. I want to stress that is not always the case, but if you’re looking for great food :

Go where the locals go : If a bar or restaurant is full of Spaniards or Portuguese people, it’s a good sign!
Look for daily specials : Many local spots don’t have pre-printed menus; just a chalkboard listing the daily dishes.
Avoid menus with generic photos : A friend told me this in Santiago. If you see photos of food that could come from anywhere, it’s unlikely to be local and probably less authentic and more expensive.
Step away from the Camino : The first bar you see might be fine and perfect for a quick bite but the best food might be just a short walk away. Follow the locals, if it’s busy with Spaniards it’s probably going to be great.

Top Tip : Google Maps check can help, look for highly-rated spots with lots of recent good reviews

very simple menu for lunch on the camino

6. Do You Tip? (Not Like in the US or Canada!)

Tipping culture in Spain & Portugal is not like in the US or Canada or even the UK. Here’s what’s expected:

Cafés & bars : Not expected but often folks will leave small change (10–20 cents). It’s always appreciated, but not required.
Restaurants : Locals usually round up or leave a small tip (5–10%), but only for great service and it is never expected.
In Pilgrim Hostels and Albergue : With communal dinners and albergue restaurants there is no need to tip. In a donativo, a generous tip is always welcome. And if the albergue has a tip jar then donations will always be welcome.

In general French, Spanish and even Portuguese don’t tip, and never 20%! Most often 5 or 10% or just rounding up is enough. Tips are always appreciated but never expected.

FAQ : Everything Else About The Camino and Food?

I guess that heading is a bit of an exaggeration; I really don’t know everything about food on the Camino but I do know a fair bit!

1. Pilgrim Menus vs. Restaurant Menus: What is the difference?

Pilgrim menus are designed for pilgrims; affordable, filling and simple. They aren’t meant to be gourmet, just quick, hearty, and budget-friendly. And some if it is actually pretty fabulous.

I often hear complaints about Spanish food when really, people are referring to the repetitive nature of pilgrim menus. Tim Moore, in the Camino book Travels With My Donkey, joked about his “Ensalada, Lomo, Flan” dinner night after night, and he’s not wrong.

But restaurants work hard to provide good meals for less than €15, and that’s pretty incredible. If you want more variety or bigger portions, go à la carte, find a good local restaurant and treat yourself! Just expect to pay a little more.

2. Why Do So Many People Eat In Bars

A Spanish bar is not like a pub in the UK. It’s often a meeting point and a social hub. Folks gather during the day over a coffee, tapas or a glass of wine; which they’ll probably nurse for an hour.

Bars open for breakfast, serving coffee and toast. They stay open through the day for tapas and snacks as well as lunch and they’ll maybe even stay open for dinner too.

When we walked the Via de la Plata, one of the villages was hosting a fiesta. We were served by the same chap at 7pm for dinner and again at 6:30am for breakfast; and it looked like the party continued all night!

Bars can be the centre of a village and sometimes the heart of a community.

is this a bar or a cafe? It's a busy bar/restaurant with tables full, and shaded by umbrellas

3. Buying & Preparing Your Own Food

If you’re staying in albergues, cooking your own food is totally possible. But remember that some albergues, especially Xunta albergues in Galicia, don’t equip the kitchens, so check in advance.

Buying food is a great way to break the routine of eating out and leftovers make a great picnic the next day!

We often buy a room picnic of salads, hummus, avocado, fresh veggies and save extras for the next morning. And I always carry a spork, so we’re prepared for impromptu meals!

4. How easy is it to eat on the Camino with dietary restrictions?

I’m living proof that it’s totally possible to walk the Camino with dietary restrictions.

Celiac & Gluten-Free : Spain has a high number of celiacs, so gluten awareness is good. It’s actually easier for me to eat gluten-free in Spain than at home in France.
Dairy-Free & Allergies : I avoid dairy and find this well-catered for but it is harder than gluten. I’m also allergic to molluscs, so I avoid shellfish due to cross-contamination risks. Spanish restaurants are understanding though so talk to them and see what they can offer.
Allergen Labelling : Many menus highlight common allergens, making it even easier to navigate.

Would I be so relaxed if I had a serious allergy, probably not, but I think that would be true no matter where I was. Equally, if I was super-sensitive to cross-contamination, I think I’d have a harder time, But if you explain your needs, I have found Spain to be very accommodating.

Check out the Gluten-Free on the Camino Facebook group for extra support.

menu on the Camino listing food with allergens included

5. How Difficult is it to find vegetarian or Vegan options?

I feel these days, there are lots of vegetarian options. If you’re vegan, it’s going to be harder.

Most Pilgrim Menus now have at least one veggie option.
Bigger restaurants offer choices, but smaller, family-run spots might be more limited.
Vegan options are still harder to find unless you’re in a city or cooking your own meals.

My son is vegan so I totally understand the difficulties. I also once walked with a vegan who decided to switch to vegetarian for the Camino, as it made things much easier.

Top Tip: Always ask if vegetable soup is made with meat-based stock, as chicken stock is often used.

6. How much should we expect to pay?

My mum would answer this by saying “how long is a piece of string” which is not the most helpful answer but the truth is costs vary widely. However as a guide :

Pilgrim menu : €12-18
Breakfast : €4-10 (more in some hotels)
Supermarket snacks : €5 per day
Simple Lunch with a drink : €5-8

The cost of walking the Camino is different for everyone. Prices vary depending on where you eat, but eating well on the Camino doesn’t have to break the bank.

Bakery, like most in Spain is well stocked and also open for coffee and breakfast too

Final Thoughts : Pilgrim Food on the Camino

Hey, congratulations – you made it to the end!

I started this post thinking it would be short, but it turned into a mini Camino food guide and I guess that’s a reflection of how diverse and exciting food in Spain really is. We talk about food on the Camino but as pilgrims we often don’t wander beyond a pilgrim menu to explore.

The reality is that Spain’s cuisine is rich, flavourful, and influenced by so many cultures. The Camino doesn’t define Spanish food, it’s just one way to experience it. And I hear complaints about Pilgrim Menus not meeting expectations, yet that three course dinner is often cheaper than a glass of wine back home.

Eating in Spain, France, or Portugal is as much about culture and tradition as it is about fuel for a pilgrim. You have this gift of walking the Camino so use it to explore local customs, embrace and work around the later mealtimes and order like a local.

One of my Camino groups once ordered coffee liquors at 7 AM, because two old Spanish men at the bar did. After that, we were treated like old friends and it was a pretty memorable breakfast! You’ll enjoy a far richer experience, if you follow your nose and embrace the Spanish way.

I love Spain. Spain introduced me to the Camino, but Spain will always be my first love. And here food and wine and culture are a huge part of that love!

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Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance. None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.

Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Author : Colleen Sims

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!