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Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon : Step By Step Guide To Stage 20 Of The Camino Frances

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Walking from Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon is a day of contrasts. You’ll leave behind the flatlands and the monotony of the path beside the road, but you trade it for a fair bit of urban walking.

But, today isn’t long and it’s well marked and there are a few good places for a rest.  As with any city there is the long walk in and you do need to stay alert for the yellow arrows but you’re heading to the cathedral, and you’ll see those spires some way out! And before the urban path there are still a few rural spots to enjoy.

Leon is AMAZING!  It’s a busy city, steeped in history and one of my all-time favourite stops on the Camino Frances. Many pilgrims choose to take a rest day here; it’s a great idea!

Go shopping, walk the Roman walls, visit the incredible Cathedral with it’s equally incredible stained glass.  Eat tapas, drink wine and people watch in Plaza Mayor.  Leon is the perfect antidote after the quiet of the Meseta.

Walking the Camino Frances from Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

You day begins on semi-rural trails, offering a pleasant, easy path underfoot. However, as you approach Leon, urban walking becomes unavoidable, with busy roads and clusters of out-of-town businesses along the way.

Many pilgrims choose to skip this stage and take a bus from Mansilla de la Mulas or hop on public transport closer to the city’s edge. But if you’re committed to walking every step of the Camino Frances, keep your eyes on the arrows and you should reach the historic heart of Leon in time for lunch!

The good news is there are no major hills today, but the ones that are there are a welcome sight after the flatlands from Bercianos, and the trail is pretty easy and well-marked. When I first walked this section, major roadworks caused significant diversions but thankfully that work is complete and the trail is straightforward.

Towns and Villages Between Mansilla de las Mulas and Leon

On paper there are a few little towns that you walk through today but in reality the closer to Leon the more they merge.  However, there are still a few historical gems and thankfully there are a few well spaced cafes too.

Mansilla de las Mulas

You leave Mansilla de las Mulas via the long, straight Calle de los Mesones, crossing the bridge over the River Esla. Before you cross, there’s a small road on the left leading down to the old city walls if you fancy a closer look. You’ll need to retrace your steps over the bridge to get back on the Camino, and if you’re saving energy, you can also see the walls from the start of the bridge.

For the next 4 kilometres, you are back on a small trail beside a road; following the N-601 road, which is busier than our previous two stages.

Villamoros de Mansilla (4.4 km)

There’s not much to see in Villamoros de Mansilla, but you can take a slight detour by turning left onto a side road as you enter the village. This parallels the busy main road, and doesn’t cost you any extra distance, but does offer a change of scenery and reconnects with the main trail as you leave.

If you’re ready for a break, there is a tiny café here, La Casina de Villamoros café.  It’s a short distance off the Camino and Google currently says closed?  So check before you wander off. However, on the far side of the village, there’s also a Pandaria (bakery) across the road; be careful when crossing the busy road though!

Alternatively, you’ll find all services in the next town, less that 30 minutes away.

Puente Villarente (1.9 km)

After following the busy road N-601 for a short while, the arrows lead you off into a shady wooded area. And from here a boardwalk leads across the River Porma, where you can walk alongside the iconic Puente Villarente bridge with its 17 arches.

The River Porma, fed by snowmelt from the Picos de Europa and Cantabrian Mountains, has been prone to seasonal flooding throughout history. In the 12th century, this impressive bridge was built to withstand the river’s surges and ensure safe passage for pilgrims. According to legend, a nearby pilgrims’ hospital even kept a donkey on hand to carry sick or injured travellers to Leon; maybe the earliest ambulance service on the Camino?

Continuing through Puente Villarente, you’ll find several services, cafes, and shops, where you can restock if needed.

The Camino follows the main road through the town and just on the exit, there’s a small turning on the right hand side that leads you off back onto a trail; you’re still kind of following the road but at least on top of it!

Arcahueja (4.2 km)

The trail leads you through a motorway underpass and after a short distance you’ll find yourself approaching Arcahueja.  The route skirts around the village rather than going directly through it, but if you’re looking for a place to stay before reaching Leon, Arcahueja could be a good option.

I’ve stayed here once; not while walking, but rather during a road trip when I needed a convenient overnight stop. Hotel Camino Real, located just 300 metres off the trail, is a comfortable hotel. If you’re looking for a private room it’s a good choice.

Puente Castro (5.4 km)

As you leave Arcahueja, the landscape gradually shifts; fields and trails give way to urban sprawl. The  Camino does it’s best to keep you away from the busy main road, but eventually, the urban walking becomes unavoidable.

A modern pedestrian bridge now safely guides pilgrims across Leon’s busy roads and into Puente Castro, once a small village but now fully integrated into the city’s outskirts. This area historically  had been home to a thriving Jewish community in the Middle Ages; now more a suburb of Leon.

As you cross the bridge, keep an eye out for your first glimpse of the majestic spires of Leon Cathedral, a very thrilling sight after so many days on the Meseta from Burgos!

There’s no escaping the reality that from Arcahueja to Leon, you have about 8 kilometres of urban walking through the city’s edges. But little by little, industry and modern suburbs give way to the ancient city walls, and hidden corners, and before you know it you’ll find yourself standing in the historic heart of Leon, in front of it’s might cathedral!

Congratulations! You’ve crossed the Meseta and reached one of the most iconic cities on the Camino Frances. This is a huge milestone and you’ve earned a well-deserved rest day! Leon is a fantastic city to pause, explore, and celebrate how far you’ve come!

Leon (3 km)

Leon is so incredible that it deserves its own post and it definitely deserves an extra day. I could write pages about this city, but I’ll try to contain myself!

Leon is so rich in history. Founded by the Romans in the year 70, it was built to protect their gold mines and later flourished as the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Leon. Today, the city is a marvel, with highlights like Leon Cathedral, famous for its stunning stained-glass windows and the Basilica of San Isidoro, said to be a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture.

Stroll through medieval streets that open into modern plazas, wander by Roman ruins, and stunning landmarks like the cathedral. It’s the perfect place to slow down, soak up the atmosphere, and recharge after the monotony of the last few days of the Meseta.

I highly recommend finding a comfortable bed, a glorious shower and spend a day or two sightseeing. Places that you must add to your list include :

There’s more; so much more! If you can visit at least these iconic sights, you’ll have at least seen some of the highlights of Leon.

Leon comes alive in the afternoon lunch break and at night.  For tapas, head straight to the Barrio Húmedo, Leon’s famous tapas quarter. Its narrow streets wind their way around the Plaza Mayor, and almost every bar offers a complimentary tapa with your drink.

Some popular tapas to try include cecina (cured beef), morcilla (blood sausage), and queso de Valdeón (blue cheese). But olives and crisps are also pretty common; just as welcome and usually gluten free for me!

Alternatively, find a seat in Plaza Mayor, order a glass of wine, and watch the world go by. We did this on our last visit and never left! After our second glass of wine, we stayed for the evening, ordered dinner and waited for the sun to set and the lights come on.

If you’re lucky, you might visit during one of Leon’s three major festivals:

Top Tip : Leon is busy and even more so during festivals, especially San Froilán, when finding accommodation might be hard. Mr Sims had booked us beds at the Parador, but if you’re hoping to spend a few extra days here, I so strongly recommend that you book ahead. By the time you reach Carrión de los Condes, you should have a good idea of when you’ll arrive in Leon, so plan early and reserve.

Camino Heroes at the Cathedral

As I was searching through my photos for this post, I was reminded of a few incredible pilgrims that we met upon arriving at Leon Cathedral.

We met a group of French pilgrims, among them were four pilgrims in wheelchairs. They had been carried by an amazing support team. They had traveled every single step from the Pyrenees, over the mountains, down into Zubiri and Alto de Perdón and across the Meseta.

Wow! And of course, they were heading to Santiago. We were in awe of their incredible achievement. The amount of work, trust, and strength it must have taken for everyone everyone involved was just amazing. I can’t begin to fathom how difficult their journey must have been, or indeed how deeply emotional their arrival in Santiago would have been.

The Camino truly brings out the very best in people, reminding us that anything is possible with courage and community.

Where to Stay In Leon

There are simply far too many places to mention in this incredible city. I’ve honestly lost track of how many nights I’ve spent here, but I clearly remember my first visit. Can you believe we stopped at a McDonald’s on the outskirts of town for coffee and the free Wi-Fi? This was back in 2012, and we had no idea what a jewel of a city we were missing!

These days, I have a few favourite hotels and hostels that I know and love and wholeheartedly recommend. There are countless others but these are tried, tested by me and perfect for pilgrims and travellers alike:

Potential Challenges Between Mansilla de las Mulas and Leon

Let’s be honest: the walk from Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon can feel tedious. The path is easy, well-marked, and safe, with plenty to see near the city, but it’s still a long urban approach.

These days, I take the bus from Mansilla; but if you want to walk every step at least know that you’ll be in Leon for lunch.  Or maybe consider stopping in Puente Villarente and catching the bus from there into the centre.  If your time is limited, I’d recommend spending it exploring Leon rather slogging through the urban outskirts.

Here are a few things to watch out for:

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Mansilla de las Mulas and Leon

For me at least, the walk from Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon isn’t the most inspiring. It’s long, flat, and marked by urban sprawl that seems to stretch on forever.  Busy roads, business parks, and industrial outskirts aren’t what you’d hope for after your days on the Meseta.

But maybe that’s the point. And the walk builds anticipation for what’s to come; you see the Spires from miles out. 

Leon is a spectacular city.  When I first walked this stage for the first time, I had no idea what to expect. Reaching Leon felt like such a huge achievement.  You’ve walked over 460 kilometres across northern Spain!

For us the city was alive with festival celebrations and two glorious nights at the Parador felt like the perfect reward.

Walking into any city is hard, and Leon is no exception. Would you miss much by taking the bus? Maybe, maybe not. However, if you choose to walk, that first glimpse of the cathedral’s spires, after so many miles, feels like a hard-earned victory.

From Burgos’ wedding cake of a cathedral, across the Meseta, through Roman outposts and Templar legends, and Charlemagne and the Moors, you’ve arrived in Leon!

Well done! Take a rest day, a glass of wine and wander the old town in the city that I love so much.

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.