Visiting Pamplona : Camino De Santiago Guide for Pilgrims
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Pamplona may be famous for San Fermin and the Running of the Bulls but for pilgrims it’s the first major stop along the Camino de Santiago.
I first arrived when walking the Camino Frances. Since that first visit, Pamplona has become one of my favorite Spanish cities. I’ve returned each year for over a decade, sometimes walking and sometimes just to enjoy a few days in the city.
If you’re walking from Zubiri, you’ll probably arrive in Pamplona hot and tired but, no matter how tired, don’t just walk through this iconic city. Use my guide to help make the most of your time, with tips on my favourite places to stay, eat, and explore. Keep reading to learn about :
Where is Pamplona?
Pamplona is in northern Spain and the capital of the Navarra region. It’s an hour from the Atlantic coast, nestled in the shadow of the Pyrenees and close to the French border.
For me and most pilgrims walking the Camino Frances, Pamplona is 4 days walk from St Jean Pied de Port but if you’re driving, it’s around 68 kilometres to the French Border.
Top Tip : Pamplona can be called either Pamplona (Spanish) or Iruña (Basque)
Pamplona’s Links To The Camino de Santiago
Pamplona has a rich pilgrim history. Today it is one of the more famous cities along the Camino Frances but it’s also associated with two lesser know-routes; the Camino Viejo and Camino Baztan.
Camino Francés (French Way)
The Camino Francés is the without doubt the most popular of all the Camino routes. Starting in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France and ending at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela this 800 kilometre hike attracts pilgrims from around the world. Pamplona is a significant milestone and the first major city that pilgrims encounter after crossing the Pyrenees.
Camino Baztan
The Camino Baztan offers an alternative crossing of the Pyrenees and is thought by some to pre-date the Camino Frances. It runs through the Baztan valley starting in Bayonne in France and ending in Pamplona.
The Camino Viejo/Olvidado
One of the oldest routes to Santiago, the Camino Viejo fell into disuse as the Camino Frances became more popular.
Best Place For Pilgrims To Stay in Pamplona
First things first, if you’re a pilgrim you’ll want to find a bed. Pamplona offers so much accommodation that it would be impossible to list them all. And whilst some hotels and accommodation options are great for visitors, they may not be the best option for a pilgrim.
When I’m walking the Camino I like to find accommodation close to the trail and having spent many nights in town I have places that I have loved and I’d be happy to revisit and recommend.
My Favourite Pilgrim Albergues in Pamplona
Not everyone can afford a hotel in Pamplona. It’s a popular tourist destination and that’s reflected in the cost of the hotels. But there are some great pilgrim albergue and I’ve stayed and loved these.
- Aloha Hostel and Albergue : I have only stayed in the rooms in this hostel; my group stayed in 6 rooms with shared bathrooms and we were very happy. It’s a little off the trail but only 600m and there’s a fabulous restaurant nearby. We enjoyed our stay here. And if you arrive on the bus, it’s just a 5 minute walk.
- Albergue Plaza Catedral : I’ve stayed here many times; solo and with my groups. It’s right beside the Cathedral. The lower priced bunks are in the basement, but if you prefer more light choose one of the garden rooms.
- Hostel Albergue Casa Ibarrola : I stayed here on my first night in Pamplona and I love the pods. You get privacy and your own space, light and plug socket. It can get a little warm in summer but it’s a good location, right at the entrance of the old town.
Top Tip : If you’re staying at Aloha, just 2 minutes away on the roundabout is a glorious bar restaurant, Errejota Restaurante. We ate here a few times and it’s excellent. You can eat Tapas or have a full dinner. We tried both and recommend both!
My Favourite Hotels and Apartments in Pamplona
Pamplona hotels can be pricey but if you’re looking to splurge there is a lot of choice! Maybe team up with another pilgrim to share the cost.
- Pamplona Catedral Hotel : This is a treat. We’ve stayed here and it’s wonderful and you can park here which means driving through the city gates! For tired pilgrims looking for somewhere special this is perfect!
- Hostal Arriazu : This is a small hotel and not an albergue. It’s a great location and a good price if you prefer your own space.
- Aloha Hostel and Albergue : Whilst this is an albergue with bunks, we stayed stayed in the private rooms. For Pamplona the rooms offer excellent value for money.
- Aloha Apartment : Aloha Apartments are right in the heart of the old town in Plaza del Castillo. It’s an amazing location. They are very well equipped and comfortable and we would stay again. BUT you do have to collect the key from Aloha Hostel. BUT it is a fabulous apartment and a fabulous location.
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Must Do Sights For Pilgrims
There are many things to do in Pamplona, but it’s quite possible that you arrive around midday or later. If you’re time is short you’ll want to prioritise. Thankfully there are a few places that are worth a quick visit and they don’t involve too much walking!
1. Cathedral of Santa María la Real
You can see the towers of Pamplona Cathedral, the Cathedral of Santa María la Real, as you walk toward the citadel on the Camino Frances. Pamplona Cathedral was built during the 14th and 15th centuries over the remains of two earlier churches and whilst not as extravagant as Burgos it’s still a mighty building.
There is a charge for pilgrims to visit (currently 5€) but if you do not wish to go inside you can still collect a Sello without entering; go to the entrance on the left.
2. Calle Redin, Baluarte de Redin and Rincón del Caballo Blanco
After visiting the Cathedral, take the little street to the left (if the cathedral is in front of you). Most folks miss this but trust me it’s worth a few minutes of your time.
It’s a small street, which first opens up into a small square and then after a narrow passage, it opens up to a larger square and the restaurant featured in the film The Way; where there is much confusion over pintxos and tapas.
Film set aside, you’ll also find some amazing views from the citadel walls. This little corner of the city is considered by many to be one of the most charming as well as offering some of the best views.
Spend some time exploring and gaze back over the trail you will have walked over recent days. You can also look down and see the ancient gate you will have walked through to enter the town. It’s a glorious little corner and just a hop and a skip from the Cathedral.
Keep walking for a minute and you’ll end up back at that main gate and the Pamplona City Hotel.
3. Plaza del Castillo
Everyone who visits Pamplona must visit the Plaza del Castillo, so named as it occupies the site of the former castle of Luis Hutín. This large square is located in the heart of Pamplona and is a popular gathering place for locals and tourists alike.
It’s home to a number of cafes and restaurants including my most favourite, Café Iruna. Café Iruna is in turn the best place in Pamplona to enjoy an al-fresco café con leche and people-watching.
The cafe is beautiful and the food is also great. And if you go exploring inside, to the right of the toilets, behind a door that’s often closed and in darkness you’ll find a tiny bar that was once the favourite haunt of one of the literary greats; indeed a bronze statue of the great Ernest Hemingway is forever leaning against the bar.
It’s not always open and it’s certainly not advertised, but if you can find it, go have a look and say hello to Ernest.
4. CaminoTeca
On route to the cathedral you’ll probably pass a tiny little shop that offers everything for pilgrims; Caminoteca. Open from April to October CaminoTech is the place to go if you need any new gear, or you’re looking for a camino souveneer.
I’ve bought poles and ponchos here and some of my group and been kitted out with new hiking shoes too. Drop in and say hello and have a browse; it’s an amazing resource for pilgrims.
5. Ultreia, Interpretation Centre of the Camino de Santiago
For all pilgrims (and tourists) visiting the city, do drop in to this little centre in the old town.
Not only does it shows the history of Pamplona and the influence of the Camino de Santiago it also offers a welcome centre and help and assistance for pilgrims. You can purchase Credentials here and obtain a sello.
Other Great Things To Do In Pamplona
If you’re planning on a longer stay in Pamplona, the first thing you should do is download your Visitor Card. You can purchase one for a 1€ from the Tourist Office when you arrive or get it online for free. You can use it to get discounts across Pamplona including :
For more information and to get your card visit the Pamplona City Website.
My second bit of advice is to simply meander and lose yourself in the streets of Pamplona. It’s a wonderful city for walking. If you’d prefer an escorted tour guide the best value tours are offered by the city. You need to book in advance and request an English speaking guide (which may be more expensive). Find out more from the city website.
And an honorary mention has to go to the shops in Pamplona. If you love shopping then you could spend a day exploring both the old and the new areas of the town, which are packed full of wonderful little boutiques to tempt you.
1. Citadel de Pamplona and Vuelta del Castillo Park
The 16th-century pentagonal fortress walls are incredible. You cannot fail to be impressed as you approach the city and walk beside them. Built by the Spanish military to protect the city it is one of the best-preserved examples of military architecture in Europe and the oldest standing pentagonal citadel in the world.
Now a National Monument there are more than 5 kilometres of walls to explore. Designed as a star-shape, it features bastions, moats, and landscaped gardens which offer a peaceful retreat from the city. The park is located in the Zitadel-Takonera area and is sometimes called the green lung of Pamplona.
If there was ever a reason for staying here, walking and exploring the walls and parks of this incredible structure has to be one of them. If you want to find out more about the city walls a great place to start is the Visitor Interpretation Centre.
2. Occidens Exhibition
Within the Cathedral is a highly rated exhibition; The Occidens Exhibition. It’s an immersive cultural experience that explores the medieval history and heritage of Navarra and western Europe.
Through interactive displays, multimedia presentations, and historical artifacts, visitors can delve into the fascinating world of knights, kings, and medieval life.
3. Ayuntamiento de Pamplona
The Ayuntamiento de Pamplona is the city hall and is a notable architectural landmark in the heart of Pamplona’s Old Town. You’ll walk by the building several times and certainly as you leave the city following the arrows.
Found in the Plaza del Consistorio The original building dates from 1423 but was renovated between 1753 and 1759. It boasts an impressive facade adorned with columns and sculptures which you cannot fail to notice as you walk through Pamplona.
The building is still the seat of the Pamplona’s government, and home to a number of municipal offices.
4. Parque de La Taconera
The Taconera gardens can be found in the bastion of the same name and is considered one of the most charming places in the city
It is Pamplona’s oldest park designed in 1830 and home to a number of specimen trees. The park is a popular spot for picnics and summer concerts. It’s a great place to unwind and watch the resident ducks, deer and peacocks.
5. Monumento al Encierro
The Monumento al Encierro is a bronze sculpture created by Rafael Huerta which was inaugurated in 1994. Found near Plaza del Castillo, this enormous sculpture depicts the running of the bulls.
The statue is found between the old and new towns and is surrounding by a number of great shops. If you stay in Aloha Hostel, you’ll probably walk by once or twice as you explore.
6. Plaza de Toros
There is still a working bullring in Pamplona. It was built in 1922, and it has a capacity for almost 20,000 spectators. The bullring is the final destination for the bulls during the bull run of the San Fermin festival.
The bullring also hosts other sporting, cultural and music events throughout the year and you can tour the arena to learn more about Spain’s bullfighting. I have no interest in bull-fighting and as such have never visited.
7. Iglesia de San Saturnino
The Iglesia de San Saturnino, commonly called San Cernin, is a gem of a building in the heart of Pamplona’s Old Town. Built in the 1297, it is thought to have been built on the site of two older churches.
It’s fortress-like appearance is due to its original defensive role. The Church of San Saturnino is dedicated to the city’s patron saint and features a simple yet elegant facade and a beautiful octagonal tower. Its two tall towers are a common feature of Pamplona’s skyline.
8. Museo de Navarra
The Museo de Navarra first opened in 1910, and houses an extensive collection of archaeological finds, prehistoric artifacts, Roman mosaics, medieval sculptures, and contemporary paintings from Navarra.
Since 1956 , it has been housed in the Hospital of Our Lady of Mercy and offers a fascinating journey through the region’s history.
9. Julián Gayarre Theatre
The Gayarre Theatre is a theatre that sits between the old and new towns of Pamplona.
Whilst much of the offerings are in Spanish, the theatre shows films and has hosted some incredible music events and is worth checking out if you’re in town.
10. Estafeta Street
This is probably one of the most popular streets in Pamplona and perhaps one of the most famous.
I like to think this is because it comes alive at night with a host of Tapas or Pinxos bars. However, it’s also famous as the long street where the bulls run during the Festival of San Fermin.
A Potted History of Pamplona
Early settlements have traced Pamplona’s history back to the late Bronze Age but it was first mentioned in 75BC. Originally a simple Roman military settlement, it grew due to its location.
However, its strategic position made it vulnerable and Pamplona was destroyed by Charlemagne in 778. It was later revived by the Navarran King Sancho III in the 11th century and by 1512 the armies of King Ferdinand entered Pamplona, and the city was incorporated into Spain.
Pamplona’s famous citadel was started in 1571 making Pamplona the most strongly fortified town of the north of Spain. Today much of the medieval core remains including it’s incredible fortified walls but also :
San Fermin and The Running of the Bulls
It would be impossible to mention Pamplona and not mention the festival of San Fermin and the running of the bulls. This is an ancient festival, thought to be a combination of two different medieval celebrations. In 1591 the festival was held in July and the rest as they say is history.
Interestingly, the bull running started later in the 17th or 18th century and it was Ernest Hemingway who first brought the festival to the attention of the English speaking world in his book The Sun Also Rises.
I make no secret of the fact that I feel bull-fighting and bull-running has no place in 2024 however, it would be foolhardy to not recognise the incredible historical and cultural importance of this event. You can read more about the festival on the San Fermin website.
For pilgrims though, I would recommend not travelling to Pamplona during the celebrations. Between the 6 and 14 July it’s possible that a million tourists will visit the city and finding a bed and negotiating your way might prove impossible.
Ernest Hemingway and Pamplona
“Pamplona is a swell town, on a plateau in the middle of the Mountains of Navarre. Greatest country you ever saw” – Ernest Hemingway, 1924
Ernest Hemingway, the renowned American author, loved Pamplona and it seems that Pamplona loved Hemingway. His love affair with Pamplona started in 1923.
The young 24-year-old Hemingway visited Pamplona as a newspaper correspondent during the festival and the experience had a profound impact on him. He returned multiple times to the city forming deep connections here.
Those experiences culminated in his iconic novel, The Sun Also Rises which was published in 1926. The book captured the essence of Pamplona and helped promote the city and the San Fermin festival to international fame with English speaking readers.
In Pamplona, Hemingway is still celebrated today, with various locations in the city bearing his name or commemorating his visits. The Hemingway Route, is a walking tour that takes visitors to places associated with the author.
One of Hemingway’s favourite haunts was Café Iruna and if you wander beyond the main café interior you’ll find yourself face to face with the man himself, immortalised in bronze, leaning against the bar.
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How to Get To Pamplona
Pamplona is an easy city to reach and you have the choice of trains, plains and automobiles. When searching for methods of transport I find Rome2Rio a good place to start. It’s not perfect but it will give you a good idea of your options.
People arriving in Spain from overseas will often land in Madrid or Barcelona and both have good links to Pamplona.
Bus
The main bus service in Spain is ALSA. There are a host of other local and regional bus services but we’ve used ALSA many times and always been happy. If you’re travelling in Spain I recommend that you download their App. You can book tickets from the app as well as check routes and timetables.
Jiminez is another bus service that I’ve used in Pamplona and always been happy. I found their website a little difficult to navigate sometimes but it’s worth persevering as they offer good routes and services.
Train
Pamplona has a major railway station and served by trains from across Spain. If you are travelling from Madrid or Barcelona you will probably need to change trains elsewhere but the Spanish rail network is very efficient and we have always found assistance if needed.
RENFE is the Spanish Rail provider and their website is excellent and in English.
Top Tip : Remember that Pamplona can be called either Pamplona (Spanish) or Iruña (Basque)
Airport
Pamplona has it’s own airport although small it is served by the Spanish airline Iberia and has daily flights from Madrid and other regional airports
Driving
We have driven to Pamplona. When we stayed in the Pamplona Catedral Hotel we drove. The hotel has a car park and it felt very decadent driving through the city gates rather than walking.
Parking within the citadel is tricky and if you are driving, unless your hotel offers parking it maybe best to park outside the city and use public transport.
My walking groups have previously parked at the Airport and used the bus to get in. There is also parking under Plaza del Castillo.
Travelling on to St Jean Pied de Port
If you plan to move on to Roncevalles or St Jean Pied de Port from Pamplona take a look at my post about Getting to St Jean. It included a section about travel from Pamplona.
Best Time of Year to Visit Pamplona
Many old-school hikers will tell you that there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes. I’m sure that’s true but equally I prefer to visit places when it’s not too rainy. Whilst no weather can be guaranteed here are some of the average weather facts for Pamplona.
I’ve visited Pamplona in April, May, September, October and November and thankfully always had good weather. April is more prone to April showers but I’ve never had a full day of rain. Too often the complaint is that the sun is hot and strong.
Is Pamplona Good For a Camino Rest Day?
Absolutely. Pamplona is a great city to visit and ideal for a rest day. The walk from the mountains takes its toll and if you are looking for a day off Pamplona is a good choice. Indeed, walking with my groups, they often comment that they would have liked longer in the city.
Pamplona offers a lot for a visitor and plenty of accommodation to suit all budgets. Many albergue are happy for pilgrims to stay several days and without the night-time curfew too.
If you don’t like taking rest days you can always have a short walking day and spent the morning exploring. I’ve done this. Spending the night in Pamplona after you arrive and the next morning go sight-seeing. There are a few albergue just 6 kms out on the edge of the city where you can spend the second night.
Top Tip : There is a lot of accommodation in Pamplona because it’s a very popular tourist destination. In busy times every bed can be filled. I always recommend booking ahead if you are visiting the city.
FAQ about Pamplona and the Camino de Santiago
Are you planning to walk the Camino and thinking of staying in Pamplona or maybe even starting your Camino from here? If so, I’ve researched some of the most frequently asked questions.
Should I visit Pamplona before starting my Camino?
This is a common question asked on forums and I am in two minds as to the correct answer. If you fly into Madrid or are travelling to St Jean Pied de Port from Spain you will probably arrive in Pamplona en route. I can see that it makes sense to rest in town and explore before starting your camino.
The advantage of staying when you arrive is that you can easily plan this time into your schedule, you can recover from a long flight and explore the city on fresh legs.
The disadvantage maybe that your arrival to the city when walking, may lose some of its impact if you’ve already explored. However, if you have already made friends whilst walking from St Jean, you don’t need to lose that group by staying longer in the city.
Either way, Pamplona is a great destination and a good place to spend a few days.
Can you start the Camino de Santiago in Pamplona?
Yes. You can start your camino from anywhere. The only rule is that you must walk every step of the last 100kms and have 2 sellos every day on your credentials.
Top Tip : If you would like a distance certificate then remember to collect 2 sellos every day from the start.
I know that it’s not always possible to collect a sello (I’ve been know to draw one if there is not a stamp at my accommodation) and I know that pre-the last 100kms only 1 stamp is needed but for the sake of simplicity, just collect 2 stamps every day.
How long is the Camino de Santiago from Pamplona to Santiago?
Walking on the Camino France to the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela is 721 kilometres
How many days walk from St Jean Pied de Port to Pamplona?
How long to walk from St Jean will depend on how you tackle the mountain stage. I love walking over the mountains and I hate to rush so I split this stage in two. This is my usual route to Pamplona :
Can I get a pilgrim passport in Pamplona?
Yes. Many albergue will have credential as will the Pilgrim Welcome Centre . Often the Cathedral will have credentials and there are a number of Pilgrim dedicated shops which also stock them; one in particular is along the road that leads to the front of the cathedral.
Visiting Pamplona : The Camino de Santiago and So Much More
It’s very easy to wax lyrical about Pamplona. I’m not a fan of the bullfights and that’s clear but I am still in love with the city.
Every journey through Pamplona reveals something new for me. I can totally relate to Hemingway’s love of Pamplona’s spirit. The town can be heaving with tourists and pilgrims and yet still feels at its heart like a small Spanish city.
The city offers so much in a relatively small space making it ideal for exploring. Spend some time getting to know Pamplona, like me you’ll probably end up visiting more than once.
P.s. I love to hear from fellow pilgrims so hop over to my Facebook page and share a photo from your journey!
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Are You Walking The Camino De Santiago from St Jean Pied de Port?
I have a series of posts that may be of interest you and help with your Camino planning :
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance. None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.
I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.
TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.
Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.
Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.
Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.
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Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!