Camino Portuguese From Tui or Vigo : 100 Kms From Santiago

Created by Colleen | Updated : 12 August 2024 | ,

I’ve walked the Camino Portuguese Central and Coastal routes many times and they’re both glorious.

I’m lucky because I have time to walk often, but what if you only have a week?  The great news is that you can walk the last 100 kilometres of the Camino Portuguese from Tui or Vigo and qualify for your Compostela.

Tui on the Camino Portuguese, beside the River Minho, taken from Valenca on the Portuguese side of the river

Why Start Your Camino Portuguese In Vigo or Tui?

The Camino Portuguese is one of oldest pilgrimage routes and indeed Padron and Iria Flavia are most associated with the life and ministry of St. James in Galicia.  The Camino starts in Lisbon, although most Pilgrims opt to start in Porto.  There are three routes :

  • The Central Route
  • The Coastal Route
  • The Senda Litoral

All three merge at Redondela and all pass through either Vigo or Tui.

If you wish to receive a Compostela, then you must walk the last 100 kilometres into the Cathedral in Santiago.  And so, every year, thousands of pilgrims start their Camino from either Vigo or Tui as both are considered official starting points for those walking the last 100 kilometres.

Which Route Is Best? Vigo Or Tui

Choosing between Vigo or Tui depends on a few things. Personal preference and time will be major factors :

  • Traditional Experience : Without doubt Tui will feel more like a classic Camino.  It is a pilgrim town and has a long history associated with pilgrimage.  If this is important, then Tui would be your choice.
  • Coastal Views : If you prefer coastal views then your option would be Vigo.  It’s a large city with good transport links and you could explore the beautiful beaches before starting your Camino.
  • Time Constraints :  If you’re really short on time, then Vigo is the better choice as it’s closer to Santiago. Alternatively, you could start from O Porrino on the Central route as this is also 100 kilometres from Santiago.
  • Elevation : It’s no secret that Galicia is hilly so expect some elevation each day.  But if you would like a more gentle start then choose Tui. Starting in Vigo means you face a big hill out of town.

Top Tip : Regardless of where you start, both routes merge at the 85 kilometre mark, on the edge of Redondela.

The following text discusses the Camino Portuguese from Tui.  Jump ahead if you’re starting from Vigo.

Tui Cathedral at night

The Camino Portuguese From Tui

Tui’s origins date back to the Celts.  It was an important outpost for the Roman Empire, due to its location on the Minho River, which still serves as a natural border between Portugal and Spain.

Tui became an important staging point for medieval pilgrims and the old town is a beautiful maze of medieval streets with the 12th Cathedral of Santa María at its heart.

  • Distance To Santiago :  118 kilometres
  • Number of Pilgrims : Without doubt Tui is the most popular, with some 14,339 pilgrims listing Tui as their start in 2023.
image showing elevation on the Camino Portuguese from Tui to Santiago

The Stages from Tui to Santiago de Compostela

  • Tui – O Porriño – 17.1 kms
  • O Porriño – Redondela – 16.1 kms
  • Redondela – Pontevedra – 19.8 kms
  • Pontevedra – Caldas de Reis – 21.4 kms
  • Caldas de Reis – Padrón – 19.1 kms
  • Padrón – Santiago de Compostela – 24.4 kms

Starting In Tui

Tui is well equipped for pilgrims and there are a host of services and accommodation in the city. Tui is 33.2  kilometres from Redondela, which for most people is too long.  The easiest solution is to split the stage in two and stop in O Porrino.

Before you start and if you have time, I’d recommend visiting :

  • Tui Cathedral : There is an entrance fee but it’s worth it to see this ancient and unusual cathedral.
  • Tui-Valenca International Bridge : This bridge is a couple of kilometres from the centre, but you get to walk across an international border (and change time zones).  Look for the footprints and stand with one foot in Portugal and one foot in Spain.

Accommodation In Tui

There are plenty of accommodation choices in Tui.  I’ve spent a few nights in town and here are my favourites:

  • If you have the budget then don’t hesitate; spend the night in Tui Parador. Paradors go hand in hand with luxury accommodation and excellent service and we have an unwritten rule that if there’s a Parador then we have to stay!
  • I stayed a night at Albergue Convento Del Camino one wet November and we were the only people in the albergue.  It was cold but the owner was very helpful and the building is stunning and the beds comfortable.
  • I stopped at Ideas Peregrinas for breakfast and it was hive of activity. Everyone told us that it was a really great albergue.  It’s in a perfect location and has everything a pilgrim needs.
  • La Sigrina is one of the better hotels in town if the Parador is too pricey.  This is where I’d choose for my Walking Club and they offer extremely comfortable rooms.
Tui in the early morning, when leaving the old town on the Camino Portuguese

Tui To O Porrino

Your first day of walking isn’t too long, so enjoy a leisurely start from Tui and take your time walking to O Porrino.

I like to start from the steps of the Cathedral and the route out of Tui is well marked. You’ll meander through the narrow streets of the old town, eventually winding down and passing the old church of San Bartolomé.  From here you’ll find a more rural setting as you walk away from the city.

Top Tip : Take a moment as you walk through Tui to take photos of the streets in the morning. It’s really pretty but most folks walk head down and forget to take in the views.

The following few kilometres are undergoing some changes. The original route includes a fair amount of road walking but this is changing (I’m told for the better).  You’ll need to keep looking for arrows but also be aware of traffic.  The routes switches from road to forest and for the most part it’s a pretty trail that is well marked.

If there has been heavy rain, some of the tiny streams in the forests can burst their banks. If that happens you can either divert back and follow the road using Google Maps (or Wise Pilgrim) or take your boots off and wade through.

IMPORTANT : These are not rivers, just very small streams.  I would NEVER advocate crossing a river in flood.

I don’t recall any services along the first 7 kilometres, so make sure you have breakfast before leaving Tui and ensure you carry water. However, there is a glorious little café (come hotel) at 7 kilometres that is definitely worth a stop.  This is little a wonderful little oasis and serves great coffee and Tortilla!

  • Pensión Ponte das Febres offers private rooms at a very reasonable rate.  If you started your day before Tui and wanted to shorten the stage to Redondela, this would be a perfect place to stop.
crossing a flooded stream barefoot near o porrino

O Porrino : The Industrial Route or River Route?

Shortly after the 7-kilometre mark you have a choice.  There has been much contention over this route, so expect a few confusing arrows.  I’ve walked both and without doubt the river route is better. It’s not that you follow a river all the way, it’s more that you don’t have a few kilometres of the very industrial outskirts.

Both routes are marked but I still love my Wise Pilgrim App which tracks my location in real time.  If you see and yellow X, it’s there to steer you back to the classic route, but you want the alternative.  Most pilgrims take the river option so you should see a few others walking with you.

Top Tip : The classic Camino enters town through the old town, passing shops and cafes and bars.  If you take the river route you have to stop following the arrows and turn right to visit the old town.  As you enter from the river route, you’ll cross over a river bridge and reach a roundabout.  The Camino arrows will continue to the left but the main town is off to the right. It’s obvious when you reach this point.

the walk along the river on the optional route to O Porrino

Accommodation In O Porrino

I have stayed here on several occasions and every time I choose a different bed.  There are limited options for hotels. (The only hotel consistently (since at least 2017) had poor reviews). My top picks for this little town are :

  • Casucho Da Peregrina is my favourite albergue in town. It is spotlessly clean, the owners put a lot of love in this albergue.  There are laundry facilities, lots of space, lockers and every bed has a curtain which is perfect for me. And breakfast to boot!  Trust me and choose this one!
  • I stayed in the aptly named Apartamento Atico with a friend and we were very happy.  We had a bedroom each and as we’d been walking in the rain from Porto we washed and dried every single item of clothing!
yellow Camino arrow painted on a wall in Spain

O Porrino to Redondela

From O Porrino you’ll wander out of town along quiet roads and small villages.  In the tiny village of Fonte do Chan, just after passing a huge rock, you’ll spot arrows turning you left.  This leads you down to the N550; a very busy road so take care when crossing.   The route is well marked but do take care on that road.

You’ll be walking through the Louro Valley with forest and small villages until you reach Mos (also called Rua).  This is a pretty little hamlet with a few beautiful buildings and a couple of good restaurants. I would recommend pausing here for a drink, as services are limited en-route to Redondela.  There is a Xunta municipal albergue in Mos.  It’s a lovely albergue but does not accept reservations or bag transport. 

  • If you fancy sharing a larger apartment here, Os Cabaleiros has excellent reviews and doesn’t cost the earth.

Expect a big hill as you leave Mos; another good reason to pause; you’ll be walking up for the next few kilometres.  There are services but each time I walk they are either open, closed or gone for good.  Make sure you have water and a snack for the last 7 kilometres.

After the uphill there will always be a down and it’s a big down.  The views from the top are spectacular and if you use poles, this would be the time to extend them.  A lot of today is on tarmac so it’s not a difficult trail. You’ll follow the road into Redondela, which makes an excellent stage-end; offering shops, restaurants and accommodation. 

beautiful horse in the early morning light in Galicia

The following text discusses the Camino Portuguese from Vigo.  Jump ahead to Redondela if you’ve started from Tui.

The Camino Portuguese From Vigo

Vigo was recently voted the Happiest City in Spain, it’s home to Europe’s largest fishing fleet and one of Europe’s largest ports. In medieval times it was a small fishing village but with the discovery of the Americas, its fortunes changed, and it became an important stopping point for the American/European trade routes.   

Today Vigo is a popular tourist destination, with miles and miles of sandy beaches and the gateway to the Cíes islands.

  • Distance to Santiago : 101 kilometres
  • Number of Pilgrims : The Coastal Camino is growing in popularity and in 2023 some 9,715 pilgrims sited Vigo as their start.
image showing elevation on the Camino Portuguese from Vigo to Santiago

The Stages from Vigo to Santiago de Compostela

  • Vigo – Redondela – 16.1 kms
  • Redondela – Pontevedra –  19.8 kms
  • Pontevedra – Caldas de Reis – 21.4 kms
  • Caldas de Reis – Padrón – 19.1 kms
  • Padrón – Santiago de Compostela – 24.4 kms

Starting In Vigo

I’ve visited Vigo a few times but only after a 30 kilometre walk into town; so too tired to go exploring.  If you arrive before your Camino there are a few things you can do :

  • Explore the Casco Vello (Old Town) with its narrow streets, traditional Galician houses, and lively squares like the Praza da Constitución. You’ll find plenty of charming cafés, restaurants and shops.  Do remember that Vigo isn’t a medieval city so it will feel much more modern.
  • Vigo doesn’t have a cathedral; the most prominent church is the Concatedral de Santa María de Vigo also called the Co-Cathedral of Santa María. It is found in the Old Town on Praza da Igrexa.
  • Take a Boat Trip to the Cíes Islands.  The Cíes Islands are part of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park. Known for their stunning beaches and crystal-clear waters.

Accommodation in Vigo

Vigo is a popular tourist destination and also has a large conference centre which often hosts business exhibitions.  This means that good accommodation books quickly.  I have stayed in and liked the following :

  • Hotel Exe Vigo is really lovely little hotel, offering very comfortable rooms and a fabulous shower. It’s a good location, right on the Camino although a bit of a distance from the water.  However, it is well placed for getting out of town. And for the comfort not too pricey (which Vigo can be).
  • Zenit Vigo is another lovely hotel, and again right on the Camino so you can follow the arrows in and out of town. If budget is tight but you’d like a nice hotel for the night, they offer budget singles so grab one if you can!  
  • R4 Hostel has everything you need from an albergue, including a curtain on your bunk! This is in a good location near the waterfront but it books quickly so make sure you have a bed and not just turn up.
  • I was unsure about listing Gran Nagari Boutique Hotel.  I have stayed here and it is indeed beautiful.  The bathrooms feature an enormous spa bath which felt like a small pool and the breakfast too was exceptional.  But you have to pay extra to use the rooftop pool; and we booked because of the pool.  This is a 5* hotel so if you’re looking for some pampering it’s for you.
walking beside a beach on the way to Vigo on the Camino Portuguese

Vigo To Redondela

The markings out of Vigo aren’t the easiest to follow and I’ve found that arrows are sparse; although the last time I walked they were better. 

I head to Rua De Urzaiz.  It’s a long straight road which you can follow until you reach a church called Igrexa Parroquial da Inmaculada Concepción and a park called Parque Juan Luis Villalon.  You will pick up the arrows along that road and find yourself back on the Camino.  Once you have the arrows it’s easy to follow the trail.

Top Tip : Don’t be afraid to ask for help. On my last walk out of Vigo, a couple of ladies from Singapore asked if they could tag along with my group. I ended up like the Pied Piper of Hamlin with pilgrims falling in behind.   Once up and out of Vigo, the worst of the hills are behind you and the trail is well marked.  And don’t forget to look back at the amazing coastal views.

Services today are few and far between.  Make sure you have water and a snack as it will be a while before you find coffee.  And Just when you think the café is never going to appear, you’ll see a sign pointing off to the right.  It’s up a short hill but very short and the coffee is really very good.  Stop as it might be the last chance before Redondela and the cake is fabulous!

The rest of your walk is either on quiet roads or forest trails, before starting the big hill down to Redondela. 

map of vigo showing my route out of the city

Redondela : Where Both Routes On The Portuguese Meet

Redondela is a busy working town.  It’s not the most pretty but it has a charm and I really like this town.  There are several bars, restaurants, supermarkets and accommodation choices plus a great launderette on the main throughfare.

If you’re looking for a nice lunch restaurant, we’ve eaten at DeCalle and always been happy with the choice.  There are also some great supermarkets if your accommodation has a kitchen.

Accommodation in Redondela

I’ve stayed in town several times and these are the places we’ve loved:

  • I’ve stayed at A Boa Albergue with my groups. It’s a beautiful little albergue that offers single and double rooms as well rooms for groups.  The kitchen area is very small but it more than makes up for that with the wonderful bedrooms.  There are laundry facilities and it’s right on the Camino.
  • If you’re looking for a hotel then we’d recommend A Marisma but it books very quickly so you really do need to book this ahead of time.
  • I love the beds at Albergue A Rotonda and the way they arrange them for privacy. There is a great kitchen and lots of communal space. Perfect for those looking for pilgrim accommodation

One of my groups were lucky enough to spend the night in the amazing Pazo Vilavella, the huge castle like building as you enter town.  Sadly it appears to be a Wedding Venue now and no longer available for pilgrims.  But oh my it was great to spend the night here!

Then We Walking club staying in a castle in Redondela

Redondela to Pontevedra

Do expect hills today! But also expect a beautiful walk which ends in the glorious little Roman city of Pontevedra.

As the Camino winds its way up and out of Redondela you’ll be walking on roads. In the morning there will be traffic so keep your road-sense head on;  pilgrims often walk 2 or 3 abreast and I’m sure locals find this very frustrating.

A few kilometres from Redondela is an amazing albergue at Cesantes.  You could eat lunch in Redondela and explore the town, maybe buy a few items for supper and walk two kilometres to A Dársena do Francés.   This beautiful albergue, has all that you need and included breakfast. 

Or if you’d like to walk an hour out of Redondela an have more time in Pontevedra, there is an amazing hotel just 5 kilometres from town that is really worth a stop; Casa D’Mina is an exceptional little place. I would recommend that you eat lunch in Redondela before heading out but this is a gem of a hotel right on the camino.

After the big hill you’ll walk through the shade of a forest with glimpses of the sea before a short walk along the busy road that leads you into the charming Galician town of Arcade. Arcade is renowned for its seafood, particularly oysters. I’ve stayed here a few times and the waterfront is really pretty but it’s a kilometre off the Camino.  It’s worth visiting but it will add an hour to your day.

As you leave Arcade, take a moment to really explore the little historic Pontesampaio bridge, a site of significant importance in the Napoleonic Wars, when the battle here changed the course of history.

The route continues through beautiful forests and Galician countryside, following paths once tread by Roman legions and Napoleon’s troops; the stones that you’re walking along were once part of a major Roman road. This stage is delightful but does have some hills to challenge you.

After perhaps 6 kilometres there is a small busy bar, just off the Camino on the right.  It’s well signed and just a few minutes off the trail; it’s worth taking the detour. 

photo of Pontesampaio bridge near Arcade on the Camino Portuguese

Pontevedra River Route or Not?

A few kilometres from Pontevedra, you’ll have a choice of talking a river route.  This is a great option unless it’s been raining very heavily.  (It was marked as flooded once when I walked in November).  Both routes are well marked but the river is easier on the feet and leads you into the heart of the city.

Pontevedra itself is a city rich in history, especially Roman. Make sure to allow time to explore the old town, visit its historic churches, and soak up the atmosphere. The city offers plenty of accommodation options including a newly refurbished Parador!

Top Tip: If you arrive early, I’d suggest having a good lunch in the old town. Many restaurants in Pontevedra operate on Spanish hours, with dinner often not starting until 8:30 or 9:00 pm.

graffiti art on a wall on the River Alternative on the Camino.  It asks in Spanish What Is Art?

Accommodation In Pontevedra

There are lots of choices in Pontevedra. It’s a large city so try to be as close to the old town as you can; some albergue are quite a distance from the centre. Here are my top picks:

  • The Parador de Pontevedra was renovated in 2023 and closed when I last walked; I cannot wait to see what improvements have been made. It’s a Parador so expect a touch of luxury and of course it’s in an iconic building in the heart of the old town.
  • There are lots of wonderful hostels in Pontevedra but Hostel Acolá is my favourite. I like this one for the location and the attention to detail. The bunks remind me a little of the Pilgrim Albergue at Roncesvalles. You’ll also find all pilgrim services, including a small kitchen.
  • Pensión A Xanela is the perfect choice if you’d like some privacy but you have smaller pockets. It’s in the old town, and offers exceptional comfort for a small price. This is a lovely little hotel but is small and fills quickly so you need to book ahead.
pilgrim shells left with ribbons and other treasures beside a cross on the Camino

Pontevedra To Caldas De Reis

Leaving Pontevedra, you’ll enjoy a pleasant, although sometimes busy, walk out of the city. At weekends particularly you’ll share the trail with locals, and cyclists and the occasional horse rider.  And you’ll face a decision; do you continue on the Portuguese Camino or take the Espiritual Variente?

The Variente is a stunning alternative, but it does add an extra day or two. If you opt for this path, I recommend booking your accommodation in advance, as options are limited, and the ferry to Padron can fill quickly. I’ve walked this route and loved it and someday will write about it. However, for this guide, we’ll continue on the main path to Caldas.

The path winds through more beautiful rural landscapes and forests offering glimpses of the regions Roman history. There’s a point where you can take a side trip to see a waterfall. We visited in November when it was totally dry so perhaps in Spring there is more water and it’s worth seeing?

Again there are limited services today so be sure to carry enough water. If you’re lucky, you might come across a lady selling fruit and cold drinks and an ice-cream truck.

Top Tip:  A few kilometres before reaching Caldas, there’s an excellent albergue restaurant called Albergue Vintecatro. It’s an ideal spot for a long, relaxing lunch. While they do offer beds, I’ve only stopped for the shade for the pilgrim menu.  You’ll find it on the Camino, on your left. There are a few earlier options, but wait for Vintecatro as it’s fabulous.  

Just a few kilometres further on you’ll reach Caldas de Reis, famous for its hot springs.  There is a communal outdoor spa near the church in the town centre, or if you prefer, you can book a proper spa at one of the local hotels.  But do not soak your feet on the fountains in town; the locals really dislike this and will happily have words with pilgrims who ignore the signs.

Caldas is a wonderful Galician town with plenty of history and a great church. Visit at sunset to experience the cacophony of birds nesting in the palm trees.

palm trees surrounding a church in Caldas De Reis in Spain

Accommodation In Caldas De Reis

I’ve spent a few nights in this town and my favourite Places to stay include :

  • Albergue As Pozas Termais  is a glorious albergue.  They have thought of everything, including the best steps ever to a bunk bed! There are great communal areas and it’s in a good location; the perfect pilgrim albergue.
  • Casa Herreria is a wonderful little guesthouse offering a great level of comfort and the rooms have twin beds which is great for sharing. It’s on the Camino, popular with pilgrims; and has a really lovely outdoor area where everyone gathers in the evening
pilgrims soaking their feet in a hot spring in Caldas de Reis

Caldas de Reis to Padron (Iria Flavia)

The Variente Espiritual, rejoins the Camino today, just before Padron. For us, we have another pleasant walk through forests and the idyllic rural scenery of Galicia. 

You’ll also have a choice of making a detour today to the ancient monastery at Herbon, just before Padron. There’s an albergue here although I’ve never stayed; those who do say it’s a wonderful experience. If you wish to stay, I do strongly recommend contacting them in advance.  The monastery was closed a few years ago but has since reopened with the return of a few monks.

There are a few great stops today. My favourite is in the village of San Miguel de Valga. As you enter the village, it’s the first bar you’ll see, just before (and opposite) the church. They serve great food with gluten free and vegetarian options.  Do expect a queue.

From San Miguel, it’s a short walk into the suburbs of Pontecesures, where the Variante boat docks, and where you can detour to Herbon.  The bridge over the river here marks the entrance to Padron, though you still have a few more kilometres to walk to town.

As you approach the old town, walk through a large market car park and ahead you’ll see Restaurante Mundos. There are several dining options in Padron, but is my favourite. It’s always bustling with locals and pilgrims, the menu is excellent and reasonably priced, and they even serve gluten-free beer and Padron peppers.

Padron Peppers and gluten free beer in the restaurant in Padron, Spain

Stay In Padron Or Walk On?

Caldas to Padron is around 19 kilometres, and Padron to Santiago around 25 kilometres. Personally, I prefer to cover more ground today and keep my walk into Santiago shorter.  I have spent the night in Padron but it makes for a long walk into Santiago, so I keep walking for another hour to reach Hotel Scala or O Lagar. If you’d prefer to stay closer to Padron, I recommend Hector’s albergue in Iria Flavia (although it’s temporarily closed in 2024); he might even give you a history lesson if he has time.

Padron was an important Roman port and is closely linked to the ministry of St. James. Be sure to visit the famous church in Padron, though it’s often closed, so timing is key.

Don’t Rush Through Iria Flavia

Iria Flavia was a significant Roman town and it is here that James is said to have lived and preached the gospels. 

After being martyred in the Holy Land, his own disciples returned his body to Spain, landing in modern-day Padrón.  The town’s name is derived from the Galician word pedrón, meaning stone, which refers to the stone where the boat was moored. The stone is now preserved under the altar of the Church of Santiago in Padrón.

Walk a kilometre out of Padron to Iria Flavia; a very nondescript suburb of Padron. I so often see pilgrims walk by the ancient Church of Santa María la Antigua but it’s worth exploring for a few minutes; and if you’re lucky it will be open. 

It is claimed to be one of the oldest Christian churches in Spain. Even if it’s closed, wander around the exterior as it’s a fascinating and historically significant site. Regardless of your faith, the fact that St. James the Apostle may have lived here makes it a very special place.

Top Tip:  If you stay in Iria Flavia or Padron, make sure you visit both Churches and collect your Pedronia—a special certificate issued in town to commemorate your stay in this historically significant location.

the ancient church of Iria Flavia

Accommodation in Padron

As I mentioned, these days I walk on from Padron to make my walk into Santiago shorter.  The following are all places I’ve stayed and enjoyed and would choose again :

  • O Lagar de Jesús is a special albergue. The owners go out of their way to make your stay wonderful. The building feels ancient but offers every comfort and the communal meal is wonderful. And you’ll only have 18 kilometres to Santiago.
  • Hotel Scala is about an hours walk from Padron and it’s a great place to stop. It’s a straightforward motel, with no frills, but the bedrooms are clean and comfortable, the showers are great and the breakfast is good.   I have stayed here with my groups, and it works well if you’re looking for a good simple private hotel.

Padron to Santiago de Compostela

Today’s walk is different. It’s the final stretch of the Portuguese Camino, and as you set off from your accommodation, you’ll know that in just a few hours, you’ll be standing before the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

While you may feel the urge to rush, I always advise my groups to take their time. There are plenty of interesting places to pause today and the countryside is beautiful. The cathedral will still be there, so enjoy your last day of walking. Take coffee breaks, visit the churches, and chat with your fellow pilgrims. This is your last day, so make it count. 

As you enter the suburbs of Santiago you catch your first glimpse of the cathedral’s spires. I love watching the reactions of my groups as they reach this point; often with a few tears.  From that first sight you still have a few kilometres to go, and more than a few hills to walk before the end.  Stop for a cold drink if you’re thirsty; it’s easy to forget to stay hydrated!

Once in Santiago proper and as you near the old town, you can continue to walk on the pavement beside a busy road or take the steps up into one of the city’s famous parks. Both paths eventually lead to a pedestrian crossing that take you into the old town but the park is much prettier.

Top Tip: Santiago de Compostela is a hugely popular destination, attracting visitors from around the world and not just pilgrims. The city can be very crowded, and many of my groups are surprised by the sheer numbers of people. The good news is that as evening falls, day visitors leave and the streets become beautifully quiet.

Whatever you do, savour the moment.  You’ve arrived in Santiago and walked one of the world’s most important Pilgrimage paths. Santiago is a beautiful city and I do recommend you allow a few extra days at the end of you Camino to fully explore every corner; you will find lots of information in my post about Santiago de Compostela.

spend some time in one of Santiago's many squares and enjoy the incredible cathedral views

Accommodation In Santiago

There is so much choice of accommodation in Santiago and something for every pocket.  But don’t be fooled by the sheer number of beds; in high season every one fills.  If you know when you’ll arrive, then book your bed.

I have lost count of the number of nights I’ve spent in Santiago.  I never tire of arriving, I never tire of visiting the cathedral and I love exploring the old town at night.  I have stayed in many different hotels and here are my favourites :

  • Hospedería San Martín Pinario is my first choice when staying in Santiago. They offer hotel standard rooms which book very very quickly but also have pilgrim rooms. These are basic, simple, very clean and you can book a single room with bathroom, for less that 30€. For this you have breakfast and get to stay in one of the most iconic buildings in Santiago, right opposite the Cathedral! Contact the Hospederia direct to book if you can’t reserve online. I have more success with an email and ask for the Pilgrim Rooms.
  • If you really want to treat yourself then book a room at the 5* Parador de Santiago. It’s iconic location has to be the best address in town and was the choice of kings throughout history.  Regardless of the cost it books quickly. Eat your breakfast overlooking the cathedral and make your reservation sooner rather than later; I have stayed here and it is a special place.
  • My room at Libredon had views of the cathedral roof. This hotel is just a few hundred metres from the main square. The rooms are simple but beautifully furnished, the bed very comfortable and the shower spotlessly clean with lashings of hot water.  There are only a few rooms so you have to be quick.
  • If you can’t find a bed at San Martin, the ever-popular Santiago KM-0 albergue is a good choice. It’s a great location and popular for pilgrims so you will have plenty of company. Do book ahead. This albergue is always full.
rooftops of the old town of Santiago de Compostela

Pilgrim’s Office in Santiago De Compostela : Oficina Peregrino

The Oficina del Peregrino, or Pilgrim Office is close to the Cathedral, behind the Parador.  For anyone wanting to obtain their Compostela, you’ll need to visit this office. If you’ve watched The Way, do bear in mind that the new Pilgrim Office bears no resemblance to the one portrayed in the film.

The office is open from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm every day (except Christmas and New Year).  These hours have been extended in extremely busy periods but the staff are volunteers so spare a thought for this amazing team.

Pilgrim Compostela, written in Latin and issued by the Pilgrim Office

Register For Your Compostela

In order to obtain your Compostela, and in an effort to reduce the time pilgrims wait, a new system was put in place and I have to say it works very well.  Before you arrive in Santiago, go to the Pilgrim Office Website and complete their online registration form.  Once complete you will receive an email and a QR Code.  I also received a text message.  Keep this information to hand. I screen print the QR code for ease of access. 

When you arrive at the Pilgrim Office you will need to show this QR code before entry. Once inside you’ll be given a number and very quickly, called to the desk.  The system is great but you need to register in advance. 

Is it Worth Visiting Santiago de Compostela? Yes. You can witness the famous Botafumeiro in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

Luggage Transfer Options On The Camino Portuguese

May people opt to have their luggage transported rather than carry a full pack. If you would like this option there are a few companies to choose from :  

  • I have used Caminofacil for many years with my groups and so far, I’ve had no issues.  I’ve used them through Spain and Portugal.
  • Pilbeo is very often recommended on Camino groups and forums
  • Tuitrans is also mentioned
  • The Spanish Post Office also offers this service.  We have used them and they were great but expect them to collect early and they only operate in Spain.  And the website isn’t the easiest to navigate.  But a very reliable service.
pilgrims with backpacks walking the Camino Portuguese

Travelling To The Start Of Your Camino

How you reach your start of your Camino, will very much depend on your point of entry into Spain or Portugal.  Rather than list a huge range of entry points, instead I’ve listed the following tools that I use when planning my journey.

When planning your journey to the start of the Camino, look at alternatives. Porto is an international airport and Portugal has excellent bus and train networks.  Some people travel into Santiago airport and take the bus to their start.  Madrid also offers excellent transport links across Spain.

Start Your Camino In Valenca And Not Tui

If you have the time, an option that you may wish to consider is to start your Camino in Valenca, Portugal.  This is a pretty little town that sits on the border between Portugal and Spain and from the city walls you can gaze across at the Cathedral of Tui.

The city walls of Valenca reminds me very much of Pamplona and the town is famous in the region for its linen.  Valenca is only 3 kilometres from Tui but it makes for an interesting start, as you walk across the international border and change time zones. 

Top Tip : If you are starting your Camino with a fight into Porto, there are daily buses and trains which will take you directly to Valenca; the journey is around 2 hours. 

the international bridge between Tui and Valenca and Gerry looking out at Tui from the Citadel walls of Valenca

Accommodation in Valenca

I have stayed a couple of times in the old town and enjoyed the stay. The town is busy with day tourists when you arrive but very quiet at night.

  • There is a municipal albergue but there is also this fantastic little gem of an albergue in the old town.  Hostel Bulwark has really comfortable bunks (with curtains!), spotlessly clean bathrooms and a great breakfast is included.
  • I’ve chosen Alojamento da Vila for my groups.  If you’re looking for a private room then this is the place.  It’s beautifully finished and the beds are very comfortable.  There are doubles, twins and a triple room along with a really handy communal kitchen area.

Top Tip : If you choose to start your day here don’t forget the change in time, Portugal is an hour different than Spain.  Also you may notice that your phone signal doesn’t switch quickly from Portugal to Spain.  The last time I walked, Gerry’s signal changed immediately but mine took around 12 kilometres before it switched.

Where to Buy Your Credential : The Pilgrim Passport

I never leave home without my credential, commonly called the Pilgrim Passport.  If you wish to stay in pilgrim accommodation and obtain your Compostela then you will need a Credential.

I buy mine from Ivar’s store in Santiago; you can purchase online and have them shipped.  You can also buy from your local Camino Chapters.  The Cathedral of Santiago has details of where the credential can be purchased.

If you prefer to wait you can buy Credential on arrival but some comments suggests that it’s not always easy.  Offices may be closed or there may not be credential available.  I would recommend advance purchase.

Credential In Vigo

The local tourist office and the Concatedral de Santa María have both sold Pilgrim’s Credentials but you’d need to be sure that the office is open when you visit (not the same as the cathedral hours). Some folks have reported being able to purchase the passport at the Vigo Albergue.

Credential in Tui

You can purchase your credential from Tui Cathedral between 9:00 and 14:00 and in the afternoon from 16:00 and 20:00.  Some albergue also sell Credential.

Top Tip : You must obtain at least two sello every day if you wish to obtain a Compostela. I like to collect at least two every day when I am walking the Camino but that is my choice. But now two sello every day are mandatory.

Pilgrim Credentials or Passport identifies you as a pilgrim and allows you to stay in accommodation on the Camino

Best Time Of Year To Walk The Camino Portuguese

Many hikers will tell you that there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad gear.  Whilst of course that’s true there are other considerations when choosing to walk the Camino.

Numbers of Pilgrims

The busiest times on the Portuguese Camino is between April and November but peaks between May and October.  There is a small drop in summer but it’s consistent as you can see below. (I get these figures from the Pilgrim Office website.)

pilgrim numbers in 2023 on the camino portuguese

Accommodation Choices

I have walked from April to December and I have always found a bed.  But June to September, along the coast you will be competing with tourists for beds and prices will be higher.

Many hotels and services close at the end of October and so you should expect there to be less choice for accommodation and coffee stops but again, I’ve always found a bed and food. 

You should expect to be more self sufficient and carry food and drink and be prepared to use more albergue; but with less pilgrim traffic, albergue will be quiet.  In winter I never leave one stage without confirming my bed at the next; either with a booking app or by a simple phone call to confirm they are open.

Weather in Galicia

The weather is changing and what works one year is different the next.  When I’ve walked in April it’s been glorious and twice in November I had very different weather.  Certainly, in summer you should expect higher temperatures and the occasional shower; Galicia is green for a reason.

To learn more about the weather in Tui, Vigo or Santiago I find this website very useful.

walking through a forest on our last day into santiago de compostela in heavy rain.

Camino Portuguese From Tui or Vigo : 100 Kms From Santiago

The Camino Portuguese is a beautiful walk.  If you walk from Porto and feel that the ‘camino feel’ is lacking then rest assured that by Tui or Vigo you’ll find it.

Over the last 100 kilometres you’ll enjoy the glorious green countryside that Galicia is famous for.  You’ll catch glimpses of her beautiful unspoilt coast and enjoy the best of Galician cuisine.

I love both of these trails and if you only have time to walk the Camino Portuguese from Tui or Vigo then rest assured of a glorious Camino.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have a great travel and medical insurance policy.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will be there for you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland! Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

TrueTraveller : We have this policy and we are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink : We have used and recommended Globelink for years and we’ve not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA have recommended this company to me, although we’ve not used them personally.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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