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Caldas de Reis to Padron : Step By Step Guide to Stage 13 of the Camino Portuguese Coastal

(And Stage 11 Of The Camino Portuguese Central)

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When I think of Padron, I think of its famous peppers, but today offers far more than tapas.  The stage between Caldas de Reis to Padron is what I call the Eve of the End; the final full day before reaching Santiago de Compostela.

You’ll walk through forests, another hill, over ancient bridges, and through the lands most associated with the Apostle St. James. It is here, on the Camino Portuguese, where St. James preached and lived and where his body is said to have made its final journey to Santiago.

If ever there was a time to immerse yourself in the Camino’s history, today and tomorrow are those times.

Route Overview: Caldas de Reis to Padron (18.9 km)

Today offers almost 19 kilometres of green Galician woodlands, country lanes, and more rural villages. While there are fewer services, they are well-spaced, so you’ll have opportunities to rest at just the right moments. That said, I always recommend carrying extra water and a snack, just in case.

Of course there’s a hill today, but it’s drawn out enough to avoid feeling steep. You’ll also have the opportunity to take a variant to the 14th-century Monastery of Herbón;  you can stay the night too if you wish to avoid adding the 5.5 kilometres to your day.

The spiritual variant rejoins the Camino Portuguese at the Roman bridge of Pontecesures, crossing the River Ulla and almost marking the entrance to Padron. 

Towns and Villages Between Caldas de Reis and Padron

Today’s walk takes you through forest and lanes and quiet residential areas, but you’ll often skirt around them rather than walking straight through.

There are a couple of excellent cafés along the way and a great lunch stop in San Miguel; or if you keep a good pace, you might even reach Padrón in time to try some of its famous peppers!

Caldas de Reis

Leaving Caldas is straightforward; simply find Calle Real, the Royal Road to Santiago. However, before you set off, make sure to have breakfast, as it might be a while before you find your first coffee stop.

There are a few cafés near the church, and it’s easy to pick up the arrows in this area. You’ll also find some lovely spots to grab a coffee along Calle Real as you exit the town centre. Follow this road to the Puente Romano del Río Bermaña, and you’ll be well on your way.

The Puente Romano del Río Bermaña has been a significant crossing point since Roman times. While the bridge has undergone several reconstructions, the current version dates from the 16th century, it’s believed to have been rebuilt over original Roman foundations.

Walking on, you’ll pass the 16th-century Capela de San Roque, which is also thought to have been built on the site of an earlier religious structure. San Roque (Saint Roch) is considered a protector against plagues and illnesses; let’s hope he’s watching over pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela!

From here, the path leads you along a quiet country road that eventually gives way to forest trails. For the most part, you’ll be walking on tarmac, so be mindful of the occasional passing traffic. Despite this, the scenery is beautiful, with plenty of glorious Galician greenery.

Carracedo (5.9 km)

You pass through Carracedo rather than go into it, but there are two excellent reasons to pause:

I’ve found references linking this church to the medieval Monastery of Santa Mariña de Carracedo, to which Alfonso VII reportedly made donations in 1147. However, this seems to be a mix-up; the Monastery of Santa María de Carracedo is near Ponferrada, along the Camino Frances. Regardless of its history, the church is worth a minute or two of your time before walking onwards.

Casalderrique (2 km)

From here you’ll follow alongside the main road, albeit on your own trail and more country roads until you reach the fringes of O Pino

At Casalderrique, you’ll cross back over the main road. If you didn’t stop earlier, this is the perfect place to take a break at a glorious little pilgrim café just after the crossing.  The Fogar do Peregrino is usually busy with pilgrims; it offers everything a pilgrim could need in a café.

O Pino (2 km)

You don’t really enter O Pino; instead the trail skirts the edges of this small village. It’s a quiet spot but there is a traditional Xunta pilgrim albergue here, if you need a bed for the night.

Leaving O Pino, the Camino leads you off the road and through green tunnels of trees and into the forest again. When I first walked this section, I loved this forest; it felt magical. Timing, however, is everything because on my second walk it was cloudy!  For you, I hope you’re treated to enchanting sunbeams!

Off we walked by fields and then the forest. We were climbing today; we’ve been gently climbing for days. We look across at wooded hills and watch birds soar across the blue skies.

As the sun rises, we can see the mist rising too from the forest floor, allowing the sun’s rays to be marked out like some forest disco light show. The leaves are turning orange and yellow and falling in the breeze, and the path is transformed into some magical kingdom where even the blades of grass sparkle.

Oh, Galicia put on her best for us this morning, and it was a beautiful walk.

As you leave the forest, the descent can be steep and hiking poles take the strain off your knees. That said, the path is well-maintained and should pose no significant challenges.

As you leave the forest, you’ll pass a small picnic area and the Muíño do Xalleiro, a historic water mill; like many along Galicia’s waterways, was traditionally used for grinding grain. The Muíño do Xalleiro was restored in 2022, and it looks quite different now compared to when we first saw it in 2017.

San Miguel de Valga (2.4 km)

If you’re looking for a longer pause, this tiny village offers two excellent cafes, along with another ancient church to explore.

San Miguel de Valga is part of the wider Valga municipality, in an area rich in history. The earliest evidence of human habitation dates back to the Bronze Age, with artifacts like the Camporredondo petroglyph, now preserved in San Miguel de Valga.

The Celtic tribes thrived here between the 6th century BC and the 2nd century AD, leaving behind fortifications and settlements. The Romans of course were here, constructing roads like the Via XIX which we walked along from Redondela to Pontevedra and beyond.

The lands were also once under the jurisdiction of Santiago de Compostela and the current Church of San Miguel, although built in the 18th century, it’s likely that it stands on older foundations

As we walked through San Miguel the church bell was ringing a slow continual peel. People were arriving in black and the mood was sombre; there was to be a funeral.

We’d stopped for lunch at the café at the top of the village, and as we ate, more and more people arrived and it was clear the church would be full. Behind us, a large old dog stood in the garden, staring fixedly across toward the church. His sad expression made us wonder, was he mourning too?

Pipers and a drummer arrived, and as we left the village we could hear bagpipes fill the silence across the valley.  Pipes were followed by gunfire, five equal shots and then one louder.  We walked on in silence.

Leaving San Miguel, you’ll walk along quiet lanes and trails, giving way to pavement as you walk , ever closer to the glorious bridge over the River Ulla.

Herbón Variant (3 km extra)

Just before you reach the Roman bridge over the River Ulla, you’ll face a choice: follow the main trail or take a 3 km detour to visit the Monastery of Santo Antonio de Herbón. While it adds some distance to your day, it’s an opportunity to experience a piece of Camino history and even spend the night in the traditional pilgrim albergue there.

The monastery, established in 1396 by Franciscan friars, has been a spiritual centre for over six centuries. It has served as a retirement residence for friars, a missionary training school, and, most famously, the birthplace of Padrón peppers. In the 17th century, monks returning from the Americas introduced the peppers to the monastery’s gardens.  The rest as they say is history but maybe these famous tapas treats should be called Herbón Peppers rather than Padrón!

A few years ago, the monastery faced a challenge when the last monks left, but recently, the Franciscan community has returned, reviving the site’s spiritual significance.

San Antonio de Herbón Pilgrim Hostel

The San Antonio de Herbón Pilgrim Hostel offers a very traditional Camino experience. If you have the time and energy, the detour is absolutely worth it, especially if you stay the night. The albergue reflects the true spirit of Camino hospitality, with a communal dinner and breakfast included.  The cells very much remind me of a monastery stay along the Via de la Plata, with two beds per cell. If you’re lucky you may even have the chance to visit the monastery.

The variant rejoins the main trail just on the outskirts of Padrón.

Puente Romano de Pontecesures (4.5 km)

Walking over the Puente Romano de Pontecesures always feels like a major milestone for me. It marks the entrance to Padron and means that Santiago as close; just a day’s walk away.

This historic bridge spans the Ulla River, connecting the provinces of Pontevedra and A Coruña. While the current structure dates to the 12th century, it is believed to have been built on the site of an earlier Roman bridge. Strategically important along the Via XIX, the Roman road we’ve been following for days, the bridge’s name may even derive from Pons Caesaris (Caesar’s Bridge).

A significant reconstruction in 1161 is attributed to Maestro Mateo, a renowned medieval sculptor and architect best known for his work on the Pórtico de la Gloria in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

The Spiritual Variant rejoins the main Camino at this bridge. The Boat from Villanova de Arousa, docks at a small landing pontoon just before reaching the bridge. All pilgrims; except those heading to Herbón; cross the bridge and follow the yellow arrows toward the outskirts of Padrón.

You can spend the night here, if you wish to break your stage.  There is an albergue and a few places to stay :

Padron (2.1 km)

Of all the places along the Camino de Santiago, Padrón is perhaps the most significant and only town directly linked to the ministry of Saint James on the Iberian Peninsula.

Historically, Padrón was known as Iria Flavia, a Celtic settlement located at the confluence of the Sar and Ulla Rivers. The Romans renamed it Iria Flavia in the 1st century AD, under the rule of Emperor Titus Flavius Vespasianus.

Religious tradition tells us that Saint James the Greater (Santiago el Mayor), son of Zebedee and one of Jesus’ closest disciples, lived and preached here during his missionary to the Iberian peninsular.

While there is little historical documented evidence to confirm his presence, the area’s enduring history, passed down through the centuries, ties him to Iria Flavia and tell us that he lived and preached both in the town and from the nearby Mount Medoñas. James’ mission faced limited success among the local Celtic population, but his efforts became the foundation of the region’s Christian story.

After his martyrdom in Jerusalem in 44 AD, his disciples are said to have transported his body back to Iria Flavia. They moored their vessel to a large stone, the Pedrón, which is now housed under the altar of the Church of Santiago de Padrón. The town’s name itself derives from the Pedrón.

Regardless of your faith, it’s impossible to walk through these lands without feeling the weight of the history and the footsteps which we follow.

As you enter the town, you’ll walk through a large car park beside the Mercado De Abastos Padrón.  In front of you is Restaurante Mundos; and without fail, the place I always stop before moving on!  The Padron peppers here are excellent and they have gluten free beer!

Exploring Padron

Walking into Padrón, you’d be forgiven for thinking it was a little dreary, especially on the approach from Pontecesures. However, the town has a pretty older centre with narrow streets worth exploring, and if you arrive on a Sunday, you might catch the Sunday market.

Padrón’s incredible history makes it a fascinating place to stay, with plenty to keep you occupied. Whatever you do, even if just walking on, don’t miss the Church of Santiago.

Top Tip: Visiting both this church and the one in Iria Flavia allows you to claim your Pedronía.

Where to Stay in Padron

Padron offers a range of accommodations, including albergue, hotels, and apartments. These days, I often prefer to walk on, as today is a short stage and this also shortens the final day into Santiago de Compostela.

But if you’ve never visited, you might prefer to spend the night and if you are looking for a great place to say these are my top picks  :

Potential Challenges Between Caldas de Reis and Padron

As with the last few days there are no real challenges along this path.  Perhaps there is a hill, but it won’t trouble you.  Maybe the descent could do with some support for the knees but not overly so.  And you have to make some choices when you reach Padron. Here are the things I’d say consider :

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites for the Coastal Camino

If you’re walking any stage of the Camino Portuguese Coastal, these apps, guidebooks, and websites are invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

Final Thoughts: Camino Portuguese From Caldas de Reis to Padron

Padrón is a town of contrasts for me. It’s not my favourite stop along the Camino de Santiago, yet its immense historical and religious significance demands exploration.

I often see pilgrims walk through, missing the chance to visit the Church of Santiago or pausing only briefly in the narrow streets. Even fewer take time to explore Iria Flavia on tomorrow’s stage, a place so deeply rooted in the traditions of Saint James.

I love history; I can lose myself in the timelessness of these lands. Whatever your beliefs, it’s incredible to think that a man who may have walked with Jesus could have lived and preached here. This connection to the past is extraordinary.

Today’s stage takes you through the green tunnels of Galicia, its forests and quiet rural paths weaving you into the land of those little green Padrón peppers.  The wild coasts of Portugal feel a million miles away now and Santiago is just a whisper away.

Take your time today. Walk slowly from Caldas de Reis to Padron. Reflect on the thousands of years of history beneath your feet, following in the footsteps of kings and paupers, and Saints alike. Tomorrow will be different. Tomorrow you will reach the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

Are You Walking The Portuguese Coastal Camino?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I know I’ll walk again. If you’re walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve created detailed daily walking guides packed with route tips, accommodation recommendations, and insights to help you along the way.

Here are some posts that may inspire and help you to plan your journey:

If you’re planning your Camino or are already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences! Join my Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, find inspiration and ideas for the road ahead.