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Villar De Mazarife to Astorga: Step By Step Guide To Stage 22 Of The Camino Frances

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Stage 22 from Villar de Mazarife to Astorga, for me at least, marks the end of the Meseta. Another milestone along this iconic trail. I love today’s walk; it feels like a time of transition.  You can watch the landscape begin to change, hinting at the mountains we’ll soon be crossing.

But for today, we’ll journey through more countryside, more adobe villages, and more historical sites rich with legend.  And we’ll cross perhaps one of the most photographed bridges of all the Camino!

If you took the scenic route yesterday, expect quiet roads, quirky stops and friendly pilgrim company. If you followed the main road, you’ll be very glad to know that it ends today, as both routes merge at Puente de Orbigo.

Walking the Camino Frances from Villar De Mazarife to Astorga

Today’s stage is long; 31.9 km from Villar de Mazarife to Astorga. While some pilgrims are comfortable with this distance, for many it’s too much. And as the Camino should be about the journey, not the distance, why not adjust the stage to suit your pace?

Whatever you choose, the good news is that the trail isn’t too demanding, with just a few hills as you near Astorga. Plus, there are opportunities to break the stage into more manageable sections, allowing you longer to explore Astorga.

I love today. Expect glorious views of distant mountains, ancient bridges and charming medieval towns. And Astorga, steeped in Roman and medieval history, where the Via de la Plata merges with the Camino Frances.  And they make chocolate there too!

Towns and Villages Between Villar De Mazarife to Astorga

While this stage still meanders across rural Spain, today’s route still offers a few villages where you can find refreshments and services; a little easier after some of the more isolated stretches of the Meseta.

Villar De Mazarife

Start your day with breakfast at your albergue as services here are limited. The village maybe a favourite stop for pilgrims avoiding the busy N-120 route, but don’t expect a wide range of amenities.

We left at first light, watching the sun rise above the storks nests on the church tower. The arrows were easy to find and follow and you’ll be quickly back on the road.  

From here, it’s a long, straight 10-kilometre stretch along an equally long straight country road before reaching more services at Villavente. Make sure to fill your water bottles before leaving Villar de Mazarife, as there are no shops or cafés along this section.

Top Tip: If you take the city bus from Leon to La Virgen del Camino, consider staying for lunch in Villar de Mazarife before walking on to Villavante. This breaks the stage nicely and makes both days more manageable in terms of distance.

Villavante

Villavante is a small adobe village with a history closely tied to the Camino de Santiago. Though specific records are unclear, historians believe the area was inhabited during Roman times. The earliest documented mention of the village appears in 1442 as Villabantez, with another reference made in 1616, indicating its long-standing presence along the pilgrim route.

There’s also speculation that Villavante’s history is linked to the Order of Santiago, a religious and military order created to protect pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. While no definitive evidence ties the village to the order, its location suggests some connection to these medieval guardians.

Today, Villavante remains a quiet, sleepy village with only a few services. If you’re passing through on a Sunday, listen out for the bell-ringers; Villavante is known for its unique bell-ringing tradition, and you might be lucky enough to catch a performance!

There are two options for a night here and both can be reserved in advance :

Hospital de Orbigo (5.3 km)

Hooray! If you took the N-120 route, you’ll finally be back on quieter trails as two paths merge at Puente de Orbigo, one of the most iconic landmarks on the Camino Frances.

The Romans established a settlement here due to its strategic location near the river.  The Visigoths fought over it in 452 AD.  Alfonso III defeated the Moors here in 878 and it was once owned by the Knights Templar. In short this little town has a lot of history!

The Romans established a settlement here due to its strategic location near the river. In 452 AD, the Visigoths fought for control of the area, and in 878 AD, King Alfonso III defeated the Moors nearby. At one point, the village was even owned by the Knights Templar, reflecting its historical importance along the Camino de Santiago.

Before you enter the town, you’ll cross the magnificent Puente de Orbigo, a multi-arched medieval bridge dating back to the 13th century, though it may have Roman foundations.

Legend tells is of Suero de Quiñones, a knight scorned by his beloved. In 1434, he staged a jousting tournament here, challenging all who dared to cross the bridge. After defeating more than 300 knights, he walked to Santiago de Compostela and donated a jewel-encrusted bracelet, which is now displayed in the Cathedral Museum of Santiago around the neck of an image of Santiago Alfeo.

Directly across the bridge lies Hospital de Orbigo, named after the pilgrim hospital established here around 1184 by the Knights Hospitaller of St. John of Jerusalem; for over a thousand years, this town has been a place of rest and refuge.

Today, all essential services are available, you can even drop into the Municipal Council Office for a sello (stamp) if it’s open.  And with limited services moving forward, I’d recommend a morning coffee break before you leave town. 

If you wish to spend the night there is plenty of choice;  two stand out options that I know include :

Top Tip: If you’re short on time, consider taking an ALSA bus from Leon directly to Puente de Orbigo. The bus drops you minutes from the bridge, allowing you to walk across and enjoy the final stretch of the Meseta into Astorga.

Villares de Orbigo (2.6 km)

Leaving Hospital de Orbigo, there were once two routes marked on the road with confusing yellow arrows as you left.  Fortunately, recent reports suggest this is no longer an issue and the arrows are now clearly marked.  If in doubt you are heading to Villares de Orbigo and after this Santibanez de Valdeiglesias.

Villares de Orbigo almost feels like an extension of Hospital de Orbigo, but it does have its own character. This sleepy little village was once famous for garlic farming, and locals say that when the wind was right, the garlic-scented air could be quite pungent!

At the heart of the village stands the Church of Santiago Apostol, dedicated to St. James, the patron saint of pilgrims and this tiny village.

There are a few services too and a cafe that sells gluten free sandwiches; the coffee was good too! On my last visit we also fund an older gentleman selling handmade goods and bottles of ice cold water and offering a unique sello (stamp); worth a stop and a euro if you like collecting unusual stamps.

If you wish to spend the night there are two outstanding albergue, both offering bunk beds and private rooms and both with excellent reviews:

Leaving the village, you’ll notice the terrain gently rising. The flatlands of the Meseta give way to rolling hills. The red soil remains, and in spring the colours are so striking, with fresh green shoots against blue blue skies.

And keep an eye on the horizon and remember to turn around and look back too.  On clear days, you might see the Montes de León, snow-capped in early spring.

Santibanez de Valdeiglesias (2.4 km)

Santibanez de Valdeiglesias is another tiny village along the Camino Frances, offering basic services and accommodation for pilgrims who wish to stay the night.  While the village is small, it has a couple of options for beds and meals.

The local church stands quietly at the heart of the village, it’s foundations might be 13th century but the current church, dating from the 19th Century, is sadly often locked.

If you wish to break the stage to Astorga there are options :

Top Tip : It will be almost 8 kilometres before the next services so make sure you have water and supplies before leaving.

San Justo de la Vega (8.1 km)

There are no services between Santibanez de Valdeiglesias and San Justo de la Vega, unless David’s Donativo stand is open and still welcoming pilgrims. 

Over the years, I’ve watched this little oasis evolve from a simple table with a few supplies to a haven complete with hammocks, bean bags, and a feast of goodies. If you pass by, do stop and give generously; it’s a welcome pause and a wonderful display of Camino spirit. He has a great red sello too!

The views along this trail remain constant: red soil, rolling fields and distant mountains. But you can feel the landscape change as you walk and Astorga is close and you know that you’re leaving the Meseta.

San Justo de la Vega feels like the outskirts of Astorga but it’s not. When we first walked, the John Brierley guidebook suggested stopping at a small bar on the left as you enter; Bar Oasis.  In 2014 they claimed to make the best tortilla on the Camino. Naturally, we stopped, enjoyed a cold drink and a slice of the famed tortilla.

Was it the best? I’m not sure. There’s a bar before Pamplona and another en route to Puente la Reina that might claim that title, but this one was good and definitely worth the stop.

From here, there’s not much to see until you approach Astorga, except for an rather odd pedestrian bridge crossing the railway line. You’ll spot Astorga’s Cathedral spires as you approach and yes! There’s a hill leading into town that will make you puff!

Astorga (3.7 km)

Astorga is another key milestone on the Camino Frances. For me, it marks the end of the Meseta and the beginning of the mountains. It symbolizes renewal in the pilgrimage stages to Santiago.  It is said :

Incredibly, Astorga’s history stretches back over 200,000 years.  Evidence suggest that Celts ruled here around 275 BC.  And around 28 BC the Romans arrived, guarding the nearby gold mines. The Romans later fortified the town, establishing it as a key hub at the crossroads of two important Roman roads:

Legend has it that Saint James and St. Paul both preached here, and Astorga has been home to a bishopric since the 3rd century; one of the oldest in Spain.

Like much of this region, Astorga saw Visigoths, Moors, and Christian rulers battle for control. By the 9th century, it was reclaimed for Spain and flourished in the 11th century as an important medieval pilgrimage city, home to numerous hospitals and churches, including its glorious cathedral and the unique Bishop’s Palace.

I’ve never spent more than a short day here, but I like to arrive in plenty of time to allow for a few hours of exploration. Astorga isn’t a big city, but it’s packed with history.

And did I mention chocolate? Astorga is famous for its chocolate-making, with shops and a small museum celebrating this sweet legacy.  Although if I’m honest; I didn’t love my chocolate in 2014 and I’ve not purchased any since!  Maybe in 2025 I’ll try again!

There are a few must see attractions in Astorga :

Where to Stay in Astorga

Astorga offers a wide variety of accommodations to suit different preferences and budgets. I have stayed in many different places; often because my first choice is fully booked and I have to try another. 

Potential Challenges Between Villar De Mazarife to Astorga

Today’s stage is relatively easy in terms of terrain, with no major physical challenges.  But it is a long stage and for some, walking 31.5 km can be tough, especially in hot weather.  The good news is that you can break the stage.  Doing so allows for a more comfortable pace and gives you more time to explore Astorga.

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Villar De Mazarife to Astorga

Today is a good day. The walk from Villar de Mazarife to Astorga feels like a turning point along the Camino Frances. The landscape changes as has the horizon. After Astorga, you’ll leave behind the familiar adobe houses of the plains and notice stone buildings more suited to the mountain terrain ahead.

There is still so much history in these lands. In Astorga, the Romans left their mark, but the Cathedral of Santa María is also worth exploring.

And there are shops! I can’t help but smile remembering my first Camino walk; when I finally found a sleeping bag in Astorga after freezing for nights on end. After that stage, I was at least warm.

Enjoy today.  Break the stage.  Spend the night in one of the hidden gems along the trail and give yourself time to fully explore this ancient city.  Things change tomorrow and just writing this now makes me excited for the journey yet to come!

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

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