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Astorga to Rabanal del Camino: Step By Step Guide to Stage 23 of the Camino Frances

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Oh, how I love this stage of the Camino! Walking from Astorga to Rabanal del Camino is such a contrast from the days on the Meseta. The changing landscape brings a fresh sense of enthusiasm, as stone-built villages and gentle hills replace the adobe houses and flat expanses of yesterdays.

Leaving Astorga at first light, you’ll be following a well-marked, easy trail for 21 kilometres. You’ll be climbing steadily all day, but the incline is gradual and you’ll hardly notice.

While some guidebooks suggest walking further to Foncebadon, I prefer to break the next few stages into shorter days. This way, you can slow down, soak up the mountain views, enjoy the cafes and the little Maragato villages along the way.

Today is glorious; a perfect introduction to the stunning landscapes that lie ahead!

Walking the Camino Frances from Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

This stage of the Camino Frances takes you from the historical city of Astorga into the foothills of the Montes de Leon. You’ll notice the landscape changing as you leave behind the flatlands and begin a gentle ascent into hillier, more rugged terrain.

While the day involves a steady climb, it’s easy on the knees and the relatively short distance of 20.7 kilometres allows plenty of time to explore.

Towns and Villages Between Astorga and Rabanal del Camino

The villages along today’s route seem perfectly spaced for refreshment breaks. Keeping the day’s walk relatively short means that you can enjoy each stop, pausing for coffee, lunch, or drinks as you meander your way toward Rabanal del Camino.

Astorga

Roman Astorga is a fascinating city, and I hope you had the chance to explore some of her many treasures. If you’re looking for breakfast, your best option is to head toward Plaza Mayor. While there are a few cafes near the Gaudi Palace, most are concentrated in the centre.

The Camino arrows will guide you past the Cathedral and through a more modern residential area.  We found a small supermarket here but if you leave in the early morning, it’s probably not going to be open.

Before long, you’ll find yourself in open countryside, leaving the city behind. For the first few kilometres, you’ll walk alongside the LE-142, but the route follows a tree-lined pavement, keeping you away from the road.

Valdeviejas

The Camino doesn’t pass through Valdeviejas, it skirts around but you’ll see signs marking the village’s boundaries as you walk alongside the road. Shortly after, the Camino crosses a motorway bridge and a kilometre further, you’ll cross the road and head toward Murias de Rechivaldo.

Top Tip: There’s a detour here to bypass Murias de Rechivaldo in favour of Castrillo de los Polvazares. This little village is known for its restored traditional Maragato-style architecture. The detour isn’t long and doesn’t add much distance, but I haven’t walked this route myself.

It’s been a while since the village website and Facebook page have been updated so I recommend checking with the Tourist Information in Astorga before setting off.

Murias de Rechivaldo (4.8 km)

Just when you’re hoping for a cup of coffee, the perfect little village appears; and you finally leave the LE-142. Murias de Rechivaldo is a classic Maragato village, with traditional stone houses and wooden balconies; some brightly painted, others overflow with red geraniums.

Historical records are scarce but it’s thought the village dates back to the 10th century. The Maragatos are an ethnic group native to this region. They were renowned muleteers and carters and their trade brought prosperity to the area.

There’s a great bar/café here too; Mesón El Llar.  You walk past it and I highly recommend a break. It’s a favourite stop for pilgrims and a natural gathering point, they offer great food and plenty of shady outdoor tables.

The bar changed hands since I first walked; they once offered glorious organic smoothies! And it was here in 2014 that I met a 16-year-old Dane on his first solo adventure; walking 800 kilometres from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago alone!

There are a couple of excellent accommodation options in the village :

Santa Catalina de Somoza (4.6 km)

You’ll leave Murias de Rechivaldo and head away from the road onto a white, gravel trail. Eventually, the Camino crosses the road we followed earlier but you continue alongside the quiet, rarely used LE-6304. And as before, you’re on your own path, away from any traffic.

The landscape feels more remote, with the surrounding terrain shifting into rolling, green foothills. Do remember to look back occasionally; as the trail rises gradually, you’ll get views of Astorga.

Santa Catalina de Somoza is another Maragato village, with narrow streets flanked by traditional stone-built houses. The Church of St. Blaise, with its simple bell tower, is a key landmark; you can’t miss it as you enter the village.  Just past the church, you’ll spot café tables filled with pilgrims and backpacks propped against chairs.

The village’s origins are linked to the Hospital de Yuso; built for pilgrims walking to Santiago. In the Middle Ages, the settlement was simply referred to as Hospitale but over time, it adopted the name Santa Catalina.

I read that Santa Catalina is the only village on the entire Camino Frances named after a woman; and Somoza refers to the surrounding foothills. I’ve stayed in this little village and can recommend two fabulous places:

Top Tip: Be mindful of cyclists on the trail. Although there is a road, many cyclists choose the trail. I remember almost being knocked off my feet by a cyclist speeding by as I entered the village; lets just say we exchanged a few words! 

El Ganso (4.4 km)

Leaving Santa Catalina, you’re back on the trail beside the road. It’s curious because as I write this, I don’t think of today’s stage as being alongside a road. What comes to mind is the easy trail, the steady crunch-crunch-crunch of gravel, the little villages and the views; but never the road itself.

It’s another 4 kilometres to El Ganso, and it’s definitely worth stopping here for a drink; if the famous bar is open.

El Ganso is a small village whose history is deeply rooted in pilgrimage. In 1142 it had a small church and pilgrim hospital run by Cluniac Benedictines. During the Middle Ages, it served as an important stop for pilgrims.

The village still preserves much of its traditional architecture, with rustic stone-built houses and low stone walls that were once used to enclose cattle. Its name, El Ganso means The Goose, which hints at its agricultural past, though I’ve yet to see a goose here!

More commonly, you’ll spot storks nesting on top of the Church of San Juan Bautista, a Romanesque church that you walk by as you leave.

And the Cowboy Bar? It became something of a Camino legend, though its exact origins are hard to trace. Historically, it’s had a bit of a “rough around the edges” reputation, with service that could be indifferent at best. The food was nothing to write home about but nonetheless it was much loved by pilgrims for its quirkiness.

I believe in 2023, new owners took over. The bar has been cleaned up, the food improved, and the new team seems happy to welcome pilgrims. Some Camino stalwarts miss the old indifferent service but the Cowboy Bar is still worth a visit!

Rabanal del Camino (6.9 km)

From the Cowboy Bar, it’s another 7 kilometres beside the road before reaching Rabanal del Camino. As I mentioned earlier, the road never stood out during my walk and I don’t recall it being much of a bother. But do make sure you have water before leaving!

Before Rabanal, there’s sometimes a local lady selling miniature knitted pilgrims. Some of my group couldn’t resist, attaching their tiny mini-mes to their backpacks; little companions for the journey to Santiago de Compostela.

Rabanal del Camino’s history like so many, is closely linked to the Camino de Santiago. According to the Codex Calixtinus, it marked both the beginning and end of a Camino stage, with the first recorded pilgrim hospital dating back to 1103.

The area may have been settled even earlier; its proximity to the Roman gold mines suggests that the Romans may have passed through or even worked here. Rabanal became one of the region’s largest muleteer towns, further tying its fortunes to trade routes and the Camino.

In the 12th century, the Knights Templar established a garrison here, recognising its strategic significance as a gateway to Monte Irago, the mountain pass pilgrims had to cross to reach Ponferrada. Little remains of the ancient history but there are a few sites worth exploring :

Where to Stay in Rabanal del Camino

Not only is Rabanal steeped in medieval pilgrim history, it also offers a variety of excellent accommodation choices. I’ve stayed in the village several times and know I’ll return again.

Potential Challenges Between Astorga and Rabanal del Camino

I’ve tried to think of potential challenges today, and honestly, I’ve struggled to come up with many. This stage isn’t particularly difficult, the trail is good and there are services but there are still a few things to keep in mind:

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Astorga and Rabanal del Camino

I remember approaching this stage with some trepidation on my first Camino. The last real elevation challenges were long behind and I worried that I’d be back to huffing and puffing up steep hills.

However, today the elevation is gentle and days spent crossing the Meseta had made me much stronger than when I’d first started.

Today is a joy to walk. I love the changing landscape, the distant mountains, the green landscape, and the dry stone walls. The blend of history and culture. Everything today felt in complete contrast our last days of the Meseta and Burgos seems so far away now.

For me, Rabanal del Camino is the perfect place to end your day. There’s no need to rush and you can enjoy the plentiful coffee stops and the landscape of the Maragato villages.

If ever there was a stage where walking the Camino was more about the journey than the destination, it’s today. Take time to explore the centuries-old churches, chat with fellow pilgrims, and savour every moment. And rest well; because tomorrow we tackle the mountains!

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.