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Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo de San Miguel: Step By Step Guide To Stage 24 Of The Camino Frances

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The Romans built a road through the Irago Mountains, crossing the pass at Foncebadon to connect Italy with the vast wheatfields of Castile and the gold mines of the Bierzo region.  The Camino Frances follows a path remarkably close to this ancient route, though the original flagstones have long since disappeared.

Today is magnificent. Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo de San Miguel is both challenging and rewarding. Many guidebooks suggest that you continue on to Molinaseca or Ponferrada, but I recommend ending your day in El Acebo.

The trail today is challenging. There will be obstacles; loose stones, rocky paths, tree roots and a challenging descent.  But there are also dramatic landscapes, glorious views and for many, much spiritual significance.

Why would you wish to rush through such a spectacular stage? Take your time. Follow my advice, split the stage as I have done and experience one of the Camino’s most unforgettable days.

Walking the Camino Frances from Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo de San Miguel

Many pilgrims approach a mountain stage with apprehension, expecting the climb to be the hardest part.  But for me, it’s the descent that demands the most care. Between Rabanal del Camino and Molinaseca, the trail’s steep declines and uneven paths do present a challenge.

While some might assume that O Cebreiro or the Pyrenees on Day One, is the highest point on the Camino Frances, it’s actually here. Just beyond the Cruz de Ferro, the trail reached 1,505 meters above sea level is where you’ll find the true roof of the French Way.

Regardless of the elevation, it’s the descent where many pilgrims struggle; me included. And it’s for this reason that I recommend stopping in El Acebo rather than pushing on to Molinaseca.

From Rabanal, the trail climbs steadily, passing through Foncebadon, before reaching the legendary Cruz de Ferro. After that, services disappear; unless we include Tomas in Manjarín, who has been welcoming pilgrims for years in his very very rustic refuge.

This stage is both glorious but rugged, offering around 15 km of moderate-to-difficult terrain. And, just as I recommend on the Camino’s first day in the Pyrenees, book your bed ahead of time and break this stage in two.

With your bed in El Acebo taken care of, you can relax and spend all day walking one of the most stunning paths of the Camino Frances.

Towns and Villages Between Rabanal del Camino and El Acebo de San Miguel

There are very few services today, so be sure to stock up before leaving Rabanal del Camino. Fill your water bottles and pack some snacks for a mountain picnic.

There are a few services at Foncebadon and more than a few excellent cafes but there are no more until you reach El Acebo.

Rabanal del Camino

As I mentioned in my post for yesterday’s stage, Rabanal del Camino is a glorious little mountain village steeped in Camino tradition. There are though very few services and in the morning, most of the activity centres around the albergue and hotels. If your accommodation offers breakfast, take advantage of it.

The last time I walked this stage, we left Rabanal as the sun was rising. A mist lay over the valley, and as the sun rose, the song of a cuckoo echoed across the valley; it was pretty special.

From here, the trail climbs steadily, covering around 5 km of continuous uphill to Foncebadon. It’s a slow, steady ascent and one you can take at your own pace while soaking up the ever-expanding views.

Top Tip: Make sure your water bottles are full as there are no services after Foncebadon.

Foncebadon (5.6 km)

I know this is a guide, not a journal, but I can’t resist sharing this memory :

Foncebadon has changed a lot since my first walk. Once a semi-abandoned village, it has seen a resurgence thanks to the modern Camino. Where there were once crumbling stone houses, you’ll now find a bohemian vibe with restored albergue, cafés, and even a rather nice hotel.

Foncebadon’s story is closely tied to the Camino de Santiago. In the Middle Ages, the village was granted a tax exemption for planting 800 markers along the path. Then, as now, its prominence grew because of the Camino and in the 10th century, King Ramiro II of León convened a religious council here, and later, the hermit Guacelmo established a pilgrim hospital and church.

Today there is very much a hippy vibe. Do stop. Have a look around. Have a second breakfast and just enjoy these glorious views.  

I have not spent the night here but there are two places that I know and would recommend :

Cruz de Ferro (1.9 km)

Leaving Foncebadon, the trail continues its steady climb, well-marked and always gently upward toward one of the most iconic landmarks on the Camino Frances; the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross).  This is where pilgrims traditionally leave a stone or token, symbolically letting go of a burden.

If you’ve seen the film The Way, you’ll remember the scene where Martin Sheen’s character reads a poem as they stand at the foot of the cross in the rain.  But what are the origins of the cross and the poem?

The specific prayer recited in the film seems to be a modern interpretation of ancient pilgrim traditions. While the Codex Calixtinus, a 12th-century pilgrim guide, includes various prayers and rituals, this exact prayer is not recorded there.

The origins of the Cruz de Ferro itself are equally mysterious. Ancient Celts often marked high mountain passes with stone cairns, and the Romans left offerings to Mercury, the god of travelers, at similar waypoints.

One legend suggests that the original hermit Gaucelmo mounted a cross atop an existing stone heap, transforming a pagan ritual site into a Christian symbol. Another theory is more practical; that the cross was simply a medieval “snow pole,” guiding pilgrims through deep snow during harsh winters. Today’s iron cross is a replica; the original is preserved in the Museo de los Caminos in Astorga.

Whatever its origins, the Cruz de Ferro remains profoundly significant. On my first visit, I was moved by the personal tributes left behind.  Letters to loved ones no longer here, prayers, hopes, photographs, even a credit card.  This ancient pile of wishes. Fathers, mothers, children, and friends; all remembered by someone, for some reason, in this place.

I felt oddly sad reading the notes and treasures left behind. But today I have mixed feeling about the site.  On a recent visit we arrived just as a tour bus was leaving, and during the visit a drone buzzed loudly overhead. It wasn’t the same and for many the site has lost its intimacy. 

Still, I believe that it’s significance really depends on when you arrive and who is sharing the space with you. I hope you find it quiet and reflective; because the Cruz de Ferro deserves to be kept as the spiritual space it has always been.

Manjarin (2.5 km)

As you leave the Cruz de Ferro, I can’t stress enough the importance of watching your footing. The views are absolutely glorious, and it’s tempting to look up; but the rocky paths and uneven terrain that can trip you up if you’re not careful.

At least the elevation is behind us and the stretch is relatively flat and before long, you’ll amble into the tiny hamlet of Manjarín.

First mentioned in 1180, Manjarín was once home to a pilgrim hospital. Today, only a scattering of crumbling stone ruins and a few hardy houses remain. One of these belongs to Tomas.

Tomas calls himself the last Knights Templar, and his ramshackle home serves as a unique pilgrim refuge. Don’t expect modern conveniences, there are none, but you will find a slice of Camino folklore. I’ve stopped there before and shared a cup of coffee with Tomas, the coffee was awful but it was an experience to finally meeting the man.

Just beyond Tomas’s home is a small picnic area. You’ll need to clamber up uneven steps to reach it, and the weathered tables and chairs have seen better days. But if you’re ready for a rest, it’s a shady spot with a great view.  And I read that a maybe in 2024 a new area had been made along the section?  I’ll find out more when I walk in 2025.

Alto de Cerezales (3.1 km)

You might not even realize you’ve reached Alto de Cerezales, but it’s the highest points along the Camino Frances. I don’t remember a marker, just the breathtaking views.

From Manjarín to El Acebo, the trail becomes more rugged. The path can be rocky, uneven, and slippery in wet weather. Take your time, tread carefully, and don’t rush; this section of the way demands both patience and attention.

Despite its challenges, this stretch is glorious. The views are wonderful and I find myself torn when El Acebo comes into view; relieved when it’s over but sad to leave it behind.

The downhill very much reminds me of the rocky descent into Zubiri, though I find this path even steeper and longer. Watch your feet, use walking poles if you have them, and take breaks to soak in the views; but never let the scenery distract you from the path.

I didn’t love this section the first time I walked, but it has grown on me over the years.  Without doubt it’s tricky.  On one of my walks, my walking buddy tripped over a simple tree root, badly injuring her arm and face.   And partway along, you’ll come across a small plaque which reads: “A ship wasn’t built to stay in the harbour.”  I might have misquoted but it was a memorial to a 19-year-old cyclist who tragically lost his life here.

In short, I love this section but please watch your feet. 

Top Tip : If someone ahead of you is slow then please hang back and give them space.  They maybe feeling nervous and a close companion trying to pass them is not going to help.

El Acebo de San Miguel (3.9 km)

El Acebo de San Miguel is a picture-perfect mountain village with traditional slate-roofed houses lining the main street. Their painted wooden balconies seem to defy gravity, often overflowing with the customary red geraniums.

Unlike many villages along the Camino Frances, El Acebo doesn’t have much recorded history outside of its role on the Camino de Santiago. In medieval times, it served pilgrims much as it does today; a much-needed place to rest on the trail between Rabanal del Camino and Ponferrada.

While it’s certainly possible to continue, the next few kilometres involve another steep and rocky descent into Molinaseca; much like the last few hours into El Acebo

Take my advice; find a bed, and soak up the peaceful charm of this little mountain hamlet.

Where to Stay in El Acebo de San Miguel

For such a tiny village, El Acebo de San Miguel has a few accommodation options.

When I first walked the Camino, we stayed in a small, traditional albergue. At the time, a brand-new, modern albergue was being built on the far edge of town; a sign of how the Camino was adapting to the growing number of pilgrims.

These days, while I’d love to recommend that older albergue, its reviews in recent years have been less than glowing. Instead, if you’re looking for a bunk-bed experience, I’d suggest heading to the modern albergue about 600 metres beyond the entrance of the village.

The places that today I know and would recommend include :

Potential Challenges Between Rabanal del Camino and El Acebo de San Miguel

While today’s walk is glorious, it comes with a few challenges that are important to recognise. That said, don’t be intimidated by today.  It is one of the most rewarding stages of the Camino. With good preparation, a steady pace, and attention to your footing, you’ll have an unforgettable experience.

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Rabanal del Camino and El Acebo de San Miguel

Did I mention that Stage 24 is fabulous?

It truly is. Historical villages, spiritual landmarks, and the dramatic mountain views make this one of the memorable days on the Camino Frances.

Yes, it has its challenges, but forewarned is being forearmed. Now that you know what to expect, you can prepare, allow time, and most importantly; enjoy the journey.

The path from the Cruz de Ferro invites reflection. Its rugged and feels like a world away from the previous stages on the Meseta.  And aside from that, today there is a quiet reality taking shape; you’re getting closer to the end of your pilgrimage.

While some guidebooks suggest ending in Molinaseca, I recommend stopping in El Acebo. Rest, recharge, and watch the sunset over this incredible mountain village.

After all, tomorrow is another day.

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.