Home > Camino Frances Guide > Camino Frances Stages > Stage 21: Leon to Villar de Mazarife
Leon to Villar de Mazarife : Step by Step Guide to Stage 21 of the Camino Frances
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Today is all about choices. Leaving Leon, you can choose to walk the traditional route to Puente de Orbigo or you can take my advice and walk the variant from Leon to Villar de Mazarife and avoid, for me at least, the worst section of the Camino Frances.
Today is certainly a day of contrasts, regardless of the route you take. You’ll leave from the heart of Leon’s old town, through narrow streets, then modern suburbs and commercial outskirts before finally reaching the mars like orange trails on the very last of the Meseta.
From here, you can opt to walk forever, along the busy N-120 highway or choose the scenic variant through quiet villages and open landscapes. Keep reading, and I hope to convince you to walk the extra 4 kilometres into Villar de Mazarife!
Walking the Camino Frances from Leon to Villar de Mazarife
For me, leaving Leon is as tedious as the walk in. Expect several kilometres of urban and commercial sprawl before reaching the countryside.
At La Virgen del Camino, there is a choice; and it’s not well marked or totally obvious. While the official Camino route follows the very busy N-120 (straight on), the quieter more scenic variant turns left, passing through a few peaceful villages and open countryside.
Top Tip: If you want to walk along then N-120 road, keep going straight; if you prefer the quieter alternative, go left. Trust me, go left.
From here, while we thought we’d left the Meseta behind at Mansilla de las Mulas, more open landscape awaits you. But, you can also expect some distant views of mountains, snowy in spring, and the mars like orange soil, leading deeper into the heartlands of Castilla y Leon.
Walking the variant, like much of the Meseta, is exposed and has longer stretches without services, but it is nonetheless a wonderful walk on easy terrain. The route crosses what is known locally as the Tierra de Leon; the lands of Leon. The last of the flat expanses, with agricultural and historic adobe villages that date from Roman and Visigoth times.
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Towns and Villages Between Leon and Villar de Mazarife
I’ll mention later more about the traditional route, but for this post, I’m going to provide details of the variant which takes you to Villar de Mazarife. Honestly, I have no desire to ever walk along the N-120, and I hope to convince you to follow suit.
Leon
Glorious Leon. Did you enjoy some time in the city? I have a soft spot for the old town with its Gothic masterpiece with its stunning stained-glass windows.
Accommodation is spread across the city, so the easiest way to find yourself back on the arrows is to head either to the Cathedral or the stunning Parador de Turismo de Leon. Historically known as the Hostal de San Marcos
The origins of the building lie in the twelfth century but in 1514, the current building was constructed and was once the western headquarters for the Order of Santiago, protecting pilgrims journeying to Santiago de Compostela.
Over the centuries, it had various roles, including a convent, hospital, and even a notorious prison during the Spanish Civil War. Now it is one of Spain’s luxury Parador hotels and if you have the budget, you can spend a night or two here; it’s glorious and the breakfast is an incredible feast!
Legend has it that the Hostal de San Marcos is haunted by the spirit of a 17th-century pilgrim unjustly imprisoned within its walls. They say his restless soul wanders the halls at night, searching for the path to Santiago he never completed. Some guests claim to have heard faint footsteps echoing through the stone corridors or spotted a lone figure near the ancient cloisters, disappearing into the shadows.
To the left of the Parador is the ancient Puente de San Marcos, which spans the Bernesga River. While often referred to as a Roman bridge, its current form dates from the 16th century. The Camino will lead you over this bridge and out of the old city into the residential and commercial outskirts.
Trobajo del Camino (3.8 km)
For me, Trobajo del Camino feels like more a blending of suburban residential areas with the city centre. It does have Roman roots, but little of its history is visible now. There is a small Church of San Juan Bautista, but this is largely a residential, built-up area. You do though pass several shops if you’re looking to stock up on supplies.
Leaving Trobajo, you have another 3 kilometres, gradually leaving the residential area and walking more into the commercial edges of the city.
Here’s maybe your first dilemma; before you even start your day. Are you wanting to walk every step of the Camino? If so, allow a couple of hours to walk from the Cathedral out of the city to La Virgen del Camino. Maybe leave early in the morning to avoid the worst of the traffic and busy city life; I love Leon at first light when the streets are empty.
However, if you are not averse to skipping a few kilometres here and there, there is a city bus that will take you from the Gaudí Museum on the edge of the old town all the way out to La Virgen del Camino, skipping 8 kilometres of urban walking. It makes this stage, and the next, a much more manageable distance too.
La Virgen del Camino (3.3 km)
Hooray! You’ve reached the city limits and are finally heading into the countryside again. Gerry loves urban Camino walking, but you may have guessed; I’m not the biggest fan!
According to legend, the Virgin Mary appeared in La Virgen Del Camino in 1505, to a local shepherd named Alvar Simón Fernández, instructing him to build a hermitage. The local bishop was sceptical until the shepherd hurled a stone, which miraculously grew into a boulder, convincing the bishop and prompting the construction of what would eventually become the Basílica de la Virgen del Camino.
Another tale from 1522 tells of a captive of the Moors who prayed to be miraculously transported back to La Virgen. His jailers locked him in a chest, but according to legend, both he and the chest were transported safely to the church, where his chains are still displayed.
The Camino follows directly past the Basilica, which is well worth a visit.
From La Virgen del Camino, you’ll face your second and more significant choice. Cross the road after the Basilica, and within a few hundred metres, you’ll find the split between the Traditional Route along the N-120 and the Variant to Villar de Mazarife.
Top Tip : Unless you are super short on time, do yourself a huge favour and turn left here!
Once you turn, there was a slightly confusing section a little further along the trail, as you cross a roundabout and motorway bridge. The signage has improved but be aware that you need to go to the right of the roundabout and the arrows will soon lead you off toward Fresno del Camino.
Fresno del Camino (2.4 km)
From the roundabout and the busy road junctions, the arrows lead off onto a smaller road, under an underpass before following a pavement that skirts around the tiny hamlet of Fresno.
According to their website, the town of Fresno del Camino was once part of Virgen del Camino, but in 1925 the two towns were separated. In the parish archive, there are books from 1600 which refer to the Hermitage of Fresno, the Convent of the Carbajalas, and a blessed fountain.
Today, you’ll see nothing of this as the Camino keeps you on the pavement, which you follow out of town. You do pass a small bar if you are looking for refreshments, but otherwise, you follow the quiet LE-5522 for 1.5 kilometres until you reach Oncina de la Valdoncina.
Top Tip: Remember that in Spain, you should walk on the left-hand side of the road to face oncoming traffic.
Oncina de la Valdoncina (1.5 km)
Oncina de la Valdoncina, a tiny little hamlet within the municipality of Valverde de la Virgen. In 2023 it has just 57 residents and yet, despite its small size, it offers two pilgrim albergue where you can also stop for refreshments.
Leaving the village, you quickly walk on trail, finally off the road! Remember to look back as you leave and catch sight of the distant mountains.
There is little by way of services long this section and it reminds in many way of the walk before Hontanas on Day 12; except for the colour of the soil.
Chozas de Abajo (5.6 km)
Another blink-and-you’ll-miss-it kind of village; no sooner have you arrived than you’ll find yourself walking out again, back onto the quiet road.
But, there is a bar. It’s well marked, follow the arrows marked Bar. It may look a bit functional, but they serve not only pilgrims but have become a hub for the small local community. With such a tiny population, it deserves our support. Plus, it’s the last place for refreshments for another 5 kilometres, so it’s worth stopping by!
As you leave town, you’ll pass the modern bell tower, a striking structure that’s hard to miss. After this you’ll pass a few municipal rubbish bins before you’re back to the country road leading to Villar de Mazarife.
If you read my blogs, you’ll know that I’m afraid of cows. I love them if they’re safely behind a fence, but put me face-to-face with one on the same path, and I’m terrified. On my first Camino, as we were leaving town, I was ahead of my little group when I turned a corner and saw a herd of cows crossing a field onto the road. There was no fence and they were heading toward me.
Okay, I’ll admit it: I overreacted. I ran back toward to the village, screaming “COWS! COWS!” Two of my walking buddies grabbed their cameras and ran ahead, hoping for an exciting encounter. One, expecting something akin to The Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, hid behind two massive rubbish bins, waiting for the worst.
In reality, about 14 very old cows, led by an equally ancient cowman and his loyal dog, lazily ambled into town. I’m not sure the girls ever forgave me; or let me forget my dramatic response. But to this day, every time I pass those bins, I can’t help but chuckle at the memory of a dear pilgrim crouching behind them, bracing herself for impending doom.
Cows aside, a word of warning; the following road seems to go on a bit!
Villar de Mazarife (4.5 km)
Villar de Mazarife is a welcome sight after the long walk from Chozas de Abajo. It’s a good-sized village with a small shop and several places to stay; although, when I walked in 2014 every albergue was full, and we ended up walking on to discover a little gem in Villavente.
Oddly, even though this route is considered a modern Camino variant, Villar de Mazarife has ties to medieval pilgrims. Historical records suggest it was repopulated in the late 9th or early 10th century by a Mozarabic family known as the Mazaref. Their settlement was likely encouraged by royal grants aimed at expanding Christian-held lands.
By the 17th century, the village’s religious role was evident through its two brotherhoods: The Brotherhood of Santiago and The Brotherhood of the Blessed Sacrament.
Despite being considered a variant route today, Villar de Mazarife was clearly a key stop for medieval pilgrims. For them there was no “official” route marked or yellow arrows. Pilgrims adjusted their paths based on conditions such as flooding, safety, and the availability of food and shelter.
The path through Villar de Mazarife likely developed as a safer, more welcoming alternative to the harsher, busier Roman road; much like today, as a choice over the busy N-120 highway.
Where to Stay in Villa de Mazarife
If you take the bus from Leon to La Virgen del Camino, Villar de Mazarife makes a great place to pause for lunch. But the village has a few albergue, offering simple but welcoming accommodation if you wish to spend the night here.
The most popular option is undoubtedly Refugio Jesus; named after the owner, not a biblical reference! We stayed here in 2018 and had a great evening with a communal dinner with our fellow pilgrims. We booked a bed ahead via email (refugiojesus@hotmail.com) as there’s no website or online booking page.
There are also a couple of other albergue in the village, though I haven’t stayed and can’t personally recommend them, as they don’t seem to get the best reviews. However, options are always worth exploring if you’re in need of a bed for the night!
Top Tip : If you take the bus to La Virgen Del Camino you can opt to walk on to Villavente. Take a look at tomorrow’s stage for accommodations here too!
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The Traditional Road Route From La Virgen del Camino
I’ll be honest. I’ve not walked the traditional route from La Virgen del Camino, and I have no plans to do so. I’m a fan of a scenic route if it avoids road walking, and this stretch is infamous for being anything but scenic.
The first time I walked from Leon, I simply followed my walking buddies, and they chose the scenic variant through Villar de Mazarife. When we later heard tales from fellow pilgrims about the awful experience they’d endured along the road, we knew we’d made the right decision.
While the traditional route is about 4 kilometres shorter overall, it follows the N-120 highway almost the entire way. The constant noise of trucks roaring by and the industrial landscape make for a challenging, uninspiring walk.
Since I haven’t experienced it myself, let me share some first-hand reviews from pilgrims on Wise Pilgrim who weren’t so lucky:
I hope these reviews help make your decision a little easier. I know some pilgrims walk every kilometre, regardless of the conditions; but for me, the scenic route through Villar de Mazarife wins every time.
Potential Challenges Between Leon to Villar De Mazarife
Today’s stage offers two very different routes, and while the scenic variant through Villar de Mazarife is far more pleasant, both paths come with their own set of potential challenges:
1. The Scenic Variant Route via Villar de Mazarife
2. The Traditional Route Along the N-120
Unless you’re in a rush or walking every single kilometre of the Camino out of principle, I highly recommend taking the scenic route through Villar de Mazarife. It may be longer, but the peaceful trails, friendly villages, and historical ties make it far more rewarding than enduring a long, noisy march beside the N-120.
And remember, the road continues tomorrow too; today is not the end!
Recommended Apps, Books And Websites
When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :
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My Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Leon and Villar de Mazarife
I was excited to leave Leon. We’d already walked a long way from St Jean Pied de Port, and reaching the city felt like a huge milestone. Walking onward feels like we were truly heading toward Santiago de Compostela; just over 300 kilometres to go.
I’m not a fan of urban walking. Uneven pavements, parked cars, and busy streets are not my idea of a peaceful Camino experience. Gerry loves towns, cities, and the buzz of daily life, but for me, I just want to walk out quickly.
If you’re like me, take the bus to La Virgen del Camino. You’ll still get to see the way out of Leon, but it takes minutes rather than hours.
Likewise, avoid the road route along the N-120. I can’t think of any good reason to choose the highway over the peaceful variant through Villar de Mazarife. Historically, the Camino de Santiago passed through these ancient villages, and while the terrain is still Meseta-like, it’s far better than the road.
I’ve enjoyed the walk to Villar de Mazarife; it feels like a well-earned reward after leaving the city behind. Enjoy today. The mountains are not far away. And Astorga too; with its history, charm and chocolate! And a hint of the more rugged terrain to come!
Are You Walking The Camino Frances?
I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :
If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance. None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.
I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.
TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.
Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.
Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.
Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.
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Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!