Pamplona To Puente La Reina: Step By Step Guide To Stage 4 Of The Camino Frances

Walking The Camino Frances From Pamplona To Puente La Reina

Your legs might feel tired today so don’t push yourself too hard.  The stage is fairly long and you do have the ascent and then the descent from Alto de Perdon to manage.  I’ve always chosen to walk on to Puente La Reina, though there are plenty of options to stop earlier if you prefer a shorter day.

There are a number of places to pause for refreshments along the way. If your accommodation doesn’t include breakfast, I’d recommend a quick stop in Pamplona as you exit the old town; there are always a couple of glorious bakeries open. 

Towns And Villages Between Pamplona To Puente La Reina

The esteemed Mr John Brierley, author of many a pilgrim’s go-to guide, notes that today’s stage is 23.8 km.  Depending on your hotel’s location you might walk a little further; but expect to walk around 24 km through glorious countryside, good trails and stunning views. 

Today is a great day on the Camino with lots of history and plenty of beautiful scenery to enjoy.

Pamplona

The walk out of town is fairly straightforward, as cities go.  But there are a couple of places where you need to stay alert for arrows; a few of my group almost followed the route for cyclists before I called them back. 

The good news; there are plenty of silver floor markers and arrows guide you out, and it’s not a long or arduous exit from town. If you lose your way, head to Park Taconera; it’s worth a few minutes to look around and enjoy either way.

Also remember that the old town cobble streets are also roads for cars, so stay on the pavement rather than wander down the middle.  And many of the streets we exit through are lined with homes.  If you’re leaving very early in the morning spare a thought for the local residents.

As you leave the city, you’ll find yourself walking beside the grounds of Pamplona University, you’ll cross the ancient Puente de Acella and then follow the A7027 and the A6000 all the way to little suburb of Cizur Menor.

Top Tip : Be careful when leaving Pamplona, there are Camino signs for cyclists as well as those on foot.  Follow the yellow arrows and keep an eye out for other pilgrims if in doubt!  I use the Wise Pilgrim app for just this reason, their real-time map will keep you on the Camino.

Cizur Menor (4.8 km)

Just under 5 kilometres from Pamplona you’ll reach Cizur Menor. Now really a suburb of the city it has its own strong historical roots tied to the Knights of the Order of St. John; the same knights who eventually ended up in Valletta in Malta and are today more commonly known as the St John Ambulance.

The medieval order protected pilgrims and has offered shelter here since 1135; the Church of San Miguel is just a few steps off the Camino.   The Order is still offering rest for pilgrims and it’s possible to stay in their traditional albergue; Albergue de Peregrinos de la Orden de Malta is simple and basic, but it’s filled with much care for pilgrims. 

At the crossroads at the top of the hill, in the centre of Cizur is a small bar (Asedor El Tremendo) where I often stop for a coffee. From here, we’re off into open countryside and in spring the fields are a riot of colour.  The trail is well marked and for the most part off the road.

Zariquiegui (6.2 km)

If you’ve watched the movie The Way, this is where Joost meets Sarah, on the wall beside the 13th-century Church of San Andrés.  It was here in this church in 2014 that I sat and shed a silent tear, as the blisters on my feet were so painful.

Zariquiegui is the last stop before the climb up to Alto del Perdón and another village with deep Camino roots.  It sits on the slopes of the Sierra del Perdón, and the views around are pretty fabulous.   

I’ve spent the night here in an Albergue which has since closed.  It’s a good choice for those wanting a relaxed morning of sight-seeing in Pamplona.  There are also two excellent options for food and supplies here. And if it’s open, do not miss the opportunity to look inside the beautiful 13th-century Church of San Andrés.

Alto del Perdón (2.4 km)

Alto del Perdon (Hill of Forgiveness) is one of the most iconic and photographed spots on the Camino Frances.  The hill stands at 770 meters above sea level and is known for its stunning panoramic views of the Navarre countryside.

Legend tells us that the devil tempted a pilgrim here but failed, allowing the pilgrim to continue his journey.   The name Alto del Perdón was given as those who reached the summit would receive forgiveness for their sins. 

The striking metal sculpture here, called Monumento al Peregrino, is a powerful symbol of the pilgrimage journey. It was created by Vicente Galbete in 1996, and features a group of life-sized iron figures depicting pilgrims journeying through time. The monument carries the inscription, Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas; where the path of the wind crosses with that of the stars.

There is also now a memorial for 92 people who lost their lives here during the Spanish Civil War.  The victims are named and aged, making this site a moving reminder of Spain’s recent conflicts.

Top Tip : Although the hill’s summit is 770 metres above sea level, you’ll start the day at around 460 metres, making your climb just over 300 metres. Throughout the day, you’ll encounter about 443 metres of total elevation gain.

Uterga (3.6 km)

What goes up must come down and this is true for pilgrims.  After the climb you have to tackle the descent.  If you use walking poles, now is the time to lengthen them to assist with the descent.

This descent is one of the more challenging parts of the day, though it’s not as steep as the path down to Zubiri, but will still demand your attention.  Take your time and watch your footing.  Before long, you’ll find yourself looking back up at the giant windmills you just passed.

Uterga is a quiet village, and over the years, one by one I have seen the houses renovated into beautiful homes.  Uterga is also home to one of my favourite little lunch spots, and offers what one of my groups called the best tortilla patatas on the Camino Frances.

Camino De Perdon, an albergue as well as a restaurant, offers bunks and private rooms.  I’ve never stayed the night but I do always stop for refreshments.

Muruzábal (2.8 km)

The walk from Uterga is beautiful, and I know I keep saying this, but today’s stage truly is glorious. Take your time and remember to look up and look behind just to take it all in. 

The Camino Aragones joins the Camino Frances in this little village and if you have the energy for an additional 5 kilometres you can detour to the beautiful little Church of Santa María de Eunate.  This unique, octagonal Romanesque church has an unknown history, some believe it was connected to the Templars, while others suggest it served as a pilgrim hospital or hermitage. Regardless, it’s a beautiful place to see.

Visiting the church will add kilometres to your day. Most of these are unshaded and without services, so come prepared.  Also, the church isn’t always open with many reports that it’s a little hit and miss.  We ended our Camino Aragones here, and although the church was closed when we arrived, by chance, the lady with the key saw us and let us in.

There is also a bar in Muruzabal but it’s not always open so I wouldn’t rely on this.

Obanos (1.7 km)

A short walk from Muruzabal brings you to Obanos, yet another village with lots of history. Every July, the village hosts a Passion Play which tells the story of the martyrdom of Santa Felicia (Felicia of Aquitaine) and her brother William the Duke (Father of Eleanor of Aquitaine).

After completing their pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela , Felicia decided to stay and dedicate her life to serving other pilgrims.  The siblings argued and in a fit of rage William killed her.  Racked with remorse, he returned to the Camino and decided to remain in Obanos and continue her work.  Now San Guillermo, his skull is encased in silver in the Church of San Juan Bautista in the village.  

This fascinating little village is often overlooked by pilgrims eager to reach Puente La Reina, but it’s well worth a brief meander. I’ve been tempted to stay the night here; there is a fabulous little inexpensive Casa Rural which a friend highly recommends.  They offer meals, an excellent breakfast and will even do your laundry for a small fee. 

Puente La Riena (2.8 kms)

The last few kilometres provide a gentle walk into town.  Leaving Obanos, you’ll head down the hill, you’ll cross the road and walk through a few small vegetable allotments before reaching the first accommodation in town, Hotel and Albergue Jakue.

Puente La Reina is a good size town and offers a lot of options for pilgrims.  Most of the services are found along the Calle Major.  There are a few outdoor shops to replenish gear and an excellent and helpful pharmacy tucked away.  The town also boasts a few great restaurants.

Where to Stay in Puente La Reina

As the end of a traditional Camino stage there are plenty of accommodation choices. 

Albergue Padres Reparadores, close to the town entrance, is a popular option that can accommodate 100 pilgrims in bunk beds.  The accept reservations in low season but not in high season.  It offers a kitchen and laundry facilities and for 9€ you’ll have a bunk bed. 

Jakue Albergue was once a traditional Albergue but they made changes after COVID.  It still offers shared pilgrim accommodation and I do still stay here.  You can book either the Albergue or opt for the more traditional hotel rooms.

It’s fair to say that the rooms in Jakue Hotel are looking a little tired, but I love staying here; and so do my groups.  It offers everything you need, you can enjoy  a great dinner and breakfast and it’s the first hotel in town.

The albergue and the hotel as listed separately on Booking sites; so make sure you check them both before booking

I’ve also stayed at Hotel El Cerco.  It’s a little more expensive than Jakue but it is very nice and in a more traditional building in the older part of town

Potential Problems Between Pamplona To Puente La Reina

There are two main considerations for today :

Don’t underestimate either of these, in what otherwise is a glorious walk.

The walk up to Alto de Perdon is steep but not badly so.  You can make your way up without too much effort, but if it’s rained recently, the trail can become muddy and sticky. Hiking poles are useful for this reason, and to help take the strain on the way up and down!

There is little shade on this stretch, so be sure to use sunscreen and have plenty of water; even on a cloudy day!

Once you’ve reached Uterga the walk is far more gentle although there is a short sharp hill into Obanos.  Today’s walk is generally glorious, with fabulous countryside views and plenty of places to pause and rest.

My Final Thoughts on Camino Frances between Pamplona and Puente La Reina

Today is a great day.  Don’t rush.  If you don’t wish to book ahead for your entire journey, maybe just call ahead from Pamplona to secure a bed.  Then relax and enjoy the walk.  You’ll pass by wheat fields and farmland and vineyards and olive trees and almond groves.  You’ll pass little villages, typical of Navarra and rich with history and legend.  It’s a great walk.

When I reached Puente La Reina I had awful blisters but regardless, I knew I’d finish my Camino.  I’d walked over the mountains from St Jean Pied de Port and I was feeling confident. 

Enjoy today.  Take some time to enjoy the landscape and the beauty of the Camino and don’t forget the Tortilla in Urtega!

Today was a milestone for me.  I had grown in confidence and felt like a ‘proper’ pilgrim.  I’d love to hear about your walk and your experiences from today.  Why not join my private Facebook group and share your day with the group.