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Portomarin to Palas de Rei : Step By Step Guide to Stage 31 of the Camino Frances

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I often find this day a bit more challenging than previous days. Why? Partly because we’re following the LU-633, a country road that accompanies much of the trail today, and partly because of the longer distance and steady climb out of Portomarin. But partly just because it’s one of those days I guess?

But don’t let that put you off! Over the years, the trail has been softened, leading pilgrims onto greener paths whenever possible. And you’ll still enjoy the glorious Galician countryside, with its rolling hills, ancient stone villages and rich history; and a few cafes offering the perfect excuse to stop.

Whether you’re an experienced pilgrim or just finding your feet, today’s walk offers a few testing hills, shaded woodland trails, expansive views and more Galician farms. The route is well-marked, the elevation is manageable and there are hidden gems like Castromaior to be explored.

There are also plenty of options to break the stage, and I’ll share a few great places to spend the night away from the busier main stages.

Walking the Camino Frances from Portomarin to Palas de Rei

From Portomarin, the trail rises steadily for about 15 kilometres. While there are a few short, steep climbs, most of the ascent is gradual, so don’t worry! A couple of sections might get your heart pumping, but they’re manageable and brief. And you’re rewarded with glorious, expansive views so remember to look back; some of the best views are often behind you.

There are places to rest and find drinks today but not for the first couple of hours so make sure you stock up in Portomarin.

While the trail does follow the LU-633, the planners have done a great job of keeping pilgrims away from the tarmac. And thankfully this road isn’t like the highways between Leon and Astorga or before Belorado. It’s a quieter country road, but still needs care when crossing.

The trail today is well-maintained and generally easy underfoot. However, with the elevation, hiking poles can be helpful to take the strain off your knees.

Towns and Villages Between Portomarin and Palas de Rei

Unlike yesterday, the first part of today’s walk offers fewer services. If you’re spending the night in Portomarin, make sure to have breakfast and carry plenty of water before setting out. While there are villages along the way, the trail feels more remote, with fewer hamlets to explore.

Portomarin

Many pilgrims choose to spend the night in Portomarin, but with such wide range of accommodation along the trail between Sarria and Santiago, some pilgrims choose to simply walk through.

While it’s possible to bypass the town entirely by skipping the steps and turning left after the bridge, I do recommend that you take the time to visit. Portomarin is the last place for food or drink for almost 8 kilometres and it’s also a pretty town.

In 1673, the Italian pilgrim Domenico Laffi described Portomarin as “… a fine town. Through the middle flows a large river with plenty of fish, particularly eels and excellent trout which provided us with a magnificent supper.”  I’ve not tried the eels or the trout but would agree the town is worth a visit. If you want to read more about Laffi’s journey you can still purchase the translation of his diary.

If you’re looking for somewhere to spend the night my recommendations would be :

Leaving Portomarin, the trail leads you down and across the river. Once over the bridge, turn right at the T-junction and follow the arrows to your first climb of the day. These climbs aren’t too arduous but they may get you puffing.

Top Tip: A Dutch pilgrim once told me that the secret to walking uphill is to avoid getting out of breath. That sounds easy but shorten your stride, keep your rhythm, and walk at a slower pace.  Everyone has a different natural pace so stick to yours, and don’t try to match your walking buddy’s

Toxibo (5.4 km)

According to David Gitlitz’s book, The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago, the Camino from Portomarin received harsh criticism in the 12^th century. 

A sermon, Veneranda dies, written in the Codex Calixtinus states “… the whores who are accustomed to come between the Minean Bridge and Palas de Rey in the wooded areas to meet pilgrims, are not only to be excommunicated but also are to have their noses cut off… ”

Thankfully, today’s trail is much quieter and far less eventful. From the hill up to Toxibo, the trail brings you beside the road, which you’ll follow for the next three kilometres. While there are no services here (nor noseless whores) you can enjoy some lovely views.

You’ll cross the road a few times. It’s not busy, but vehicles often travel at speed, so take care. Partway along, before reaching Gonzar, there’s a small picnic area with tables and benches in the shade and shortly after your first service stop of the day!

Gonzar (3.2 km)

After a long walk without services, Gonzar will feel like a welcome relief; especially on a hot day. The Hosteria de Gonzar may not be the prettiest stop, but it’s a great place to recharge.

Expect it to be busy, as nearly every pilgrim who started in Portomarin will stop here. Grab yourself a slice of tortilla and a café con leche, and don’t mind the rush. The queue for the toilet might be long, but linger awhile and chat with your fellow pilgrims.

If you wanted to break this stage there are options here :

Castromaior (1.3 km)

In recent years, I’ve chosen to walk on from Gonzar and spend the night in Castromaior. This tiny hamlet is a little oasis and perfect for those wanting to avoid the busier end stages.

Castromaior is also home to an impressive archaeological site dating back to the Iron Age. This castro, or fortified settlement, was first inhabited around the 4th century BCE and remained in use until approximately the 1st century CE. 

It spans about 5 hectares and features multiple enclosures defined by ditches, walls, embankments, and palisades. Its cultural and historical importance earned it the designation as an Asset of Cultural Interest in 2010.

The site is a short distance after the village. It’s easily accessible to pilgrims yet surprisingly few stop to explore. Look for the signs as you reach the top of the hill out of Castromaior.

If you wish to stay the night in the hamlet there are a couple of options.  There is a small albergue at the entrance; I don’t know it but its online reviews aren’t great.    

Hospital da Cruz (2.4 km)

Leaving Castromaior, follow the arrows out of the village and up onto a hill. If you’re walking early in the morning, you’ll often climb above the mist as the sun rises. At the top, remember to visit the Iron Age fort. It’s an incredible piece of history and well worth the short detour.

From here, the trail guides you on and off quiet roads until you reach Hospital da Cruz, a hamlet named after a medieval pilgrim hospital established in the 12th century by the Order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem.

Although the original hospital no longer exists, the tradition of hospitality lives on at Bar Taberna do Camino. It’s a simple bar and maybe lacking a few frills, but the last few times I’ve stopped I was served what might just be the biggest slice of tortilla on the entire Camino Frances. The bar opens early and we stopped for a late breakfast.

Top Tip: Hospital da Cruz sits at a busy road junction, stay alert as you approach the roundabout. Watch for traffic and follow the arrows. And remember when walking on roads, be sure to keep to the left-hand side.

Ventas de Naron (1.7 km)

From the roundabout, the trail continues along the same quiet road for nearly 2 kilometres. While the walk itself offers little beyond views of glorious Galician countryside, Ventas de Naron, a nondescript little hamlet, also hides a rich history.

In 820 Ventas became the site of a famous battle. Under the leadership of Asturian King Alfonso II (who would later walk the first Camino; the Primitivo), Christian armies repelled the advancing Muslim forces and secured a critical victory.

During the middle ages, it is thought that the tiny 13^th century chapel da Magdalena was associated with a pilgrim hospital.  Possibly linked to the Knights Templar, it was later maintained by the Benedictine Order. Today, this tiny chapel is cared for by a blind caretaker, who offers sellos (stamps) for your pilgrim credential.

If you’re looking to break this stage, Ventas de Naron has a few accommodation options:

A Prebisa (2 km)

From Ventas de Naron you follow the same road.  There is a path, which keeps you away from traffic and you are climbing but gently so.  And the views around are still wonderful.

A Prebisa is a tiny hamlet; a collection of houses really but there is a bar. Bar Trisquel service hot food and cold drinks. It’s not open year round but it does serve breakfast lunch and dinner and is a welcome pause.

Ligonde (1.3 km)

On the same road a little out from A Prebisa you’ll find the tiny chapel of Lameiros and a little further along the Cross of Lameiros. 

Erected in 1670, it features intricate carvings depicting symbols of Christ’s Passion, including a hammer, nails, and the crown of thorns. One side of the cross portrays the crucified Christ, while the reverse side is thought to depict either the Virgin Mary with the infant Jesus or the Virgin of Sorrows.

Historically, the cross is believed to have been associated with a pilgrim hospital and cemetery that existed in the area until at least 1753; although nothing but the cross remains today.

A little further along the road you’ll meander into Ligonde.  There is a celtic Castro nearby; further testament to the ancient history of this land.  Carlos V is said to have spent the night here in 1520, as did Felipe II in 1554.  Today there is a traditional Christian albergue, that also offers tea and coffee for thirsty travellers; it’s only open from May to October though.

Airexe (0.8 km)

Just before reaching Airexe, you’ll find a great little restaurant, Casa Mariluz, which offers good local dishes; perfect for lunch or dinner.

Airexe (or Eirexe) is essentially part of Ligonde, but its existence is primarily tied to its 12th-century church. The Church of Santiago in Airexe is located just a few metres off the Camino, and it’s well worth taking a short detour to explore.

The church features unusual exterior reliefs, including depictions of figures, birds, and possibly Daniel between two lions. Opposite the church, you’ll see the more austere former hospital, originally built by a local family to serve pilgrims.

If you’re planning to spend the night, Airexe offers two excellent accommodation options:

As you leave Airexe, you’ll pass a second restaurant; Restuarant Ligonde. They serve excellent local dishes and is a great spot to refuel; or go for dinner if you’re staying in the village.

Portos (2.1 km)

The Camino continues onward, leading you on and off the road until you arrive at what might be one of the most unusual bars along the Camino. The garden is decorated with giant ants; not just larger than life, but larger than people ants!

Ants aside, A Paso de Formiga is a fantastic stop. The food is fresh, often straight from the garden. If you’re looking for accommodation, you can also stay the night here.

Lestedo (0.9 km)

A short walk further brings you to Lestedo and its Iglesia de Santa María.

This small chapel, like many others along the Camino, has ancient ties to the Camino de Santiago. Historically, it was linked to the Order of Santiago, a medieval group dedicated to protecting pilgrims. Inside, there are said to be 12th-century wall paintings, though they’re unfortunately in poor condition.

Brea (1.2 km)

Brea lies on the outskirts of Palas de Rei, but this is Galicia, so it still feels wonderfully rural. There’s not much here, but you will find a great bar that’s often bustling with locals; a good stop if you’re looking for a pick-me-up.

From Brea, the trail takes you through a few more tiny villages before descending a tree-lined hill into Palas de Rei, marking the end of today’s stage.

Palas de Rei (2.8 km)

Like much of the land we’ve walked through today, Palas de Rei and its surroundings have a rich history with archaeological sites with burial mounds, dolmens and hillforts.

The name “Palas de Rei” is believed to reference the Visigothic King Witiza, who reigned between 702 and 710 AD. According to tradition, Witiza maintained a palace here and he may also have killed Duke Favila of Galicia, quite a significant event in the region’s early history.

Palas de Rei flourished during the Middle Ages, becoming a vital stop for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. The 12th-century Codex Calixtinus described it as a key resting point, a role it still serves today; although it’s fair to say the town’s former glory has faded with time.

Marking the end of today’s stage, Palas de Rei offers all of services, including cafes, restaurants, accommodations for every budget, pharmacies, and ATMs. If you’re in the mood for more history, the Church of San Tirso is worth a visit. Mentioned as early as the 9th century, its current structure dates to the 12th century.

Where to Stay in Palas de Rei

As the end stage of today’s walk on the Camino Frances and with less than 70 kilometres to Santiago, Palas de Rei offers a wide range of accommodation options. I’ve stayed here a few times, though these days I tend to walk on to avoid the busiest stops. That said, I know and recommend the following:

Potential Challenges Between Portomarin and Palas de Rei

If we were to heed the sermon from the Codex Calixtinus, we might worry about ladies of ill repute wandering the woods. Thankfully, that’s no longer a concern, but I do think the biggest challenge today is keeping your spirits up.

Yesterday’s stage from Sarria was delightful, and the earlier part of today’s walk might feel like it’s missing some of that sparkle. But don’t worry; there are still gems to discover. Here are a few things to keep in mind:

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances from Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Today is all about two things; the views and the history. For some reason, I’ve always found this stage a little harder than others, though there’s no obvious reason.

Perhaps it’s because we’re nearing Santiago de Compostela, and so many thoughts cross my mind. Maybe it’s the closeness of the road. Or perhaps I just miss the pretty little villages and mountains and wandering cows.

Whatever the reason, ignore me.  This stage still holds its share of hidden gems. You might need to step off the Camino to find them, but they’re worth the effort. And the views today are unmistakably Galician; rolling pastures, stone houses, ancient oak and chestnut trees, and expansive vistas that demand attention.

This stage is beautiful in its own way. Take your time today. Book your bed ahead so you can walk at your own pace without the worry of finding accommodation. If you’re starting from Portomarín, enjoy a leisurely breakfast and let the crowds run ahead.  You’ll have the trail to yourself as you meander through the villages and historical treasures.

Stop for coffee. Stop for a bowl of Caldo Gallego. Stop to explore this land of Celts. Santiago is fast approaching so make sure you enjoy every step.

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.