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Fonfria to Sarria : Step By Step Guide To Stage 29 Of The Camino Frances

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The walk from Fonfria to Sarria marks another milestone on the Camino Frances; Sarria is where many pilgrims will begin their journey to Santiago.

This stage also offers two route options at Triacastela: the San Xil valley or the path to Samos. For this post, I focus on the San Xil route, a lovely walk with tiny hamlets scattered along the trail; some with services and others just a few houses. The rolling hills of Galicia remain with us for the rest of our journey, though thankfully yesterday’s steeper climbs are behind us.

Sarria marks a shift; with lively streets, increased services, and more pilgrims. Don’t see this as a bad thing though.  While the crowds grow, so do opportunities to meet fellow pilgrims and enjoy the energy of this iconic starting point.

These days, I do opt to stay in quieter accommodation off the main stages.  But for the purpose of this guide I’ll follow the traditional route, with recommendations for my choices on where to stay to find those more peaceful alternatives.

Walking the Camino Frances from Fonfria to Sarria

This stage is longer than most at 27.5 kilometres and offers a mix of terrain. You’ll start with a downhill from Fonfria into Triacastela. The descent can be a little steep and in wet weather, a little muddy and slippery. Trekking poles are a great help in supporting your knees and keeping your balance.

The route takes you through tiny Galician villages, past stone crosses, traditional horreos (grain stores) and forests brimming with moss, ferns; and cows! Welcome to Galicia!

I love this land.  I’m from Devon in the south of England and it reminds me of home.  Others will tell you it looks like Ireland and I can see why.

Galicia is green; it’s green because it rains. And the rolling hills provide plenty of ups and downs to keep your legs working all the way to Santiago.  There is so much history here; the land of celts and legends and pilgrimage.  Galicia is wonderful. 

Towns and Villages Between Fonfria and Sarria

As you walk from Fonfria to Sarria and beyond, guidebooks will show many many villages.  However, be warned that most are tiny with minimal services.

From Sarria though, you’ll find an abundance of opportunities to pause, refuel and enjoy the energy of the final stages of the Camino Frances.

Fonfria

Start your day with breakfast at the albergue, or if you prefer to build up an appetite, there is a nice little bar/cafe about half an hour into the walk.  But, as always, it may not be open when you’re passing!

Leaving Fonfria, you’ll probably need to wait for the farmer to lead his cows down the main street but this aside little else will happen. The arrows guide you onto a trail with breathtaking views of the Galician hills as you walk away from yesterday’s mountains.

Look out for the clouds or mist lingering over the valleys; it’s a magical view. You’ll pass groves of ash and oak and the lower you go, wildflowers will make an appearance. When we last walked in May, the distant hills were covered in pink hues of blooming heather.

Biduedo (2.8 km)

Biduedo is a tiny hamlet, long associated with pilgrimage. Historically, there was small hospital here managed by the Knights of St. John of Malta but little remains today.

The village is home to the Ermita de San Pedro, reputed to be the smallest church along the Camino Frances. This rustic chapel lacks doors and windows, leaving its interior open to the elements but it also means it’s not locked when you’re passing.

Filloval (2.9 km)

Leaving Biduedo, the Camino leads you on and off small country roads, gravel paths and woodland trails, all the while offering glorious views (if you can see through the trees). Within a few kilometres, you’ll reach Filloval, a small village linked historically to the Order of St. John of Jerusalem.

From Filloval, the trail continues much as it has all day; descending gently, offering breathtaking views, and weaving on and off quiet country roads.

In Ramil, take a moment to greet the ancient chestnut tree, believed to be over 800 years old. Consider all that this tree has witnessed. When it was was planted Genghis Khan was conquering Persia, the Magna Carta was being signed and Marco Polo travelled to the court of Kublai Khan in China. This tree has silently witnessed the rise, decline and rebirth of the Camino de Santiago too!

From Ramil, it’s just a short walk down to Triacastela.

Triacastela (3.8 km)

Triacastela is a good sized town with all the services. The town’s name comes from the three castles that once stood here, though they’ve long since disappeared. And whilst modern Triacastela was founded in the 9th century, its history is much older.

Two kilometres away lies Cova Eiros, an archaeological site with evidence of Neanderthal and early modern human activity, including some of the earliest Paleolithic cave art in northwest Iberia. Unlike the ancient settlements at Atapuerca outside Burgos, access to these caves is restricted but its existence highlights the ancient heritage of this land.

In 968 A.D., Viking invaders pillaged the area, including Triacastela. They were ultimately defeated at the Cebreiro pass, where you walked yesterday, but the town was left in ruins. 

Triacastela is also where you’ll choose your route to Sarria. Turn left to visit the monastery at Samos, or head right to follow the traditional San Xil route. While both are routes are beautiful, the Samos route is longer and for this guide, I’ll be following the traditional path through San Xil.

If you’d like to stay overnight, I recommend these two fabulous options:

A Balsa (2.1 km)

From Triacastela, the Camino leads you along a small country road, occasionally diverting onto what feels like an old cart track, complete with grass growing down the middle. There’s not much traffic, but it’s good to stay road-aware even so.

Over the first 5 kilometres from Triacastela, you’ll also gently climb; not a lot but just enough to feel it!

A Balsa is a tiny hamlet just 2 kilometres from Triacastela. The name, A Balsa, translates to the raft in Galician, possibly hinting at historical water crossings here.

There is also accommodation if you’d like to stay the night; Albergue Ecológico El Beso, a vegan and eco-friendly retreat. If you’re looking for something a little different, this might be just the place for you. It operates with a community ethos, which may not suit everyone, but for those seeking an alternative experience, it’s could be perfect.

San Xil (1.7 km)

The trail from A Balsa is shaded in parts by beautiful oak and chestnut trees which line the road.  The shade is welcome but they can block the views too.

I love this walk. On either side, you’ll find pastures and farms and in spring, they burst with colour from wildflowers, and in autumn the trees glow with shades of yellows and orange. The elevation here is totally manageable; enough maybe to get your blood pumping in a couple of places but never too much.

Partway along, you’ll find the Fonte de Os Lameiros, originally just a water spout but remodeled in 1993 for a Holy Year. It makes a great photo if you can catch its reflection in the water!

San Xil itself is a tiny hamlet with no services. The Camino skirts around the village, but if you wander off a little, you can visit the 15th-century Iglesia de San Xil de Carballo with bells which toll through the day to mark the time.

A short distance beyond San Xil, you’ll reach the high point of the day. The views are wonderful, although you may need to peek through gaps in the trees to take them in.  Locals will tell you that in winter this area regularly sees snow, although it never feels that high.

You’ll continue along the road for a short distance before dropping off onto a forest trail until Montan.

Montan (3 km)

At the start of the village there’s a picnic area with a vending machine and at the far end, you might stumble across Simon’s Donativo; if it’s still there.

Montan was documented by the Monastery of Samos from 1058; referencing San Miguel de Montan and mentioning a sanctuary housing relics of Saint Michael and Saint Andrew. It is widely believed that Montan was once called Villa Sancti Michaelis mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus. However, sometime before 1665, the village’s name changed to Santa Maria de Montan

From here, the trail alternates between roads and quieter, greener trails. You’ll pass through Fontearcuda, a hamlet with just three or four houses and a Romanesque church. And it’s here the trail really opens up here, offering views of Galicia’s rolling hills and green valleys.

Just off the Camino, you’ll also find a much-loved Casa do Franco bar. Known for its great coffee and Menu del Dia.

Furela (3.5 km)

Furela is another tiny hamlet, where the trail weaves in and around a few houses before leading you past the Capilla de San Roque. Along this road you’ll be rewarded with 360-degree views of Galicia’s stunning countryside.

Pintin (1.3 km)

Pintin is one of the larger hamlets today, offering refreshments and accommodation.

Leaving the village, the arrows take you on and off the road again until you reach the very tiny hamlet of Calvor. 

Calvor (1.6 km)

You’ll cross the road at Calvor, moving from one trail to the next, just below the Iglesia de Santo Estevo. Though it might feel insignificant, Calvor’s history stretches back thousands of years.

The Castro de Calvor, or Castro Astorica, was once an Iron Age hillfort. Its fertile land and strategic location most likely also supported Roman settlements. By medieval times, Calvor became a waypoint on the Camino, with its 8th-century church built on top of the remains of the iron-age fort.

Though the Camino doesn’t pass directly by the church, it’s worth the short detour to explore. You may even still see remnants of the fort’s mounds, embankments and ditches; all that remains from thousands of years of human history.

Aguiada (0.8 km)

The San Xil and Samos routes meet here, and you’ll walk beside the main road for a short while before entering the little village of Aguiada. Services are limited, but there’s a fabulous small hotel nearby that’s perfect for those seeking a more comfortable rest before Sarria.

Sarria (4.5 km)

The final walk into Sarria is alongside the road for the most part, although on a trail.  You’ll meander through San Mamede do Camino before arriving at the outskirts of town. When I walked in 2014 we walked into a storm.  If ever there was a reason to be prepared for wet weather this was the day :

Sarria is a busy town with all services. Like the rest of this region, it has a long history of Neanderthal and Human occupation.  The name is thought to be derived from the Latin Sarraium and was first documented in the 6^th century. 

Sarria’s prominence grew in the middle ages; King Alfonso IX of Leon favoured the town and he also died here in 1230.  This royal association enhanced the town’s prominence and over time Sarria evolved into a key stopover for pilgrims.  And the rest, as they say, is history.

From Sarria you’ll encounter the busiest days of the Camino Frances as many pilgrims start their journey here to meet the 100 kilometre requirement for their Compostela.  You’ll first walk through modern Sarria with a few albergue and places to pause before reaching the old town.  On tired legs, you’ll need to climb the steps up to Rua Maior into the heart of the medieval quarter.

I’ve lost my bearings here a few times in this part of town, so keep an eye on those arrows!

Top Tip: Be very aware of scammers posing as charity workers along the trail. They’ll have ID and clipboards but they are not affiliated to any legitimate organisation or charity and supporting them only encourages their illegal activities.

Where to Stay in Sarria

Sarria offers a huge choice of accommodation, making it one of the most well-equipped towns on the Camino Frances outside of Santiago. More than 130,000 pilgrims started their Camino here in 2023; more in 2024. So it’s wise to book ahead.

There are many excellent places to stay but I can recommend :

Potential Challenges Between Fonfria and Sarria

Today is an easier day than yesterday’s climb to O Cebreiro; the toughest hills are behind you, and Santiago feels very close. However, are still a few challenges along the way:

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances From Fonfria to Sarria

Today is a beautiful stage.  I’ve taken both routes through San Xil and Samos and both offer glorious walks. The route through San Xil has some wonderful landscapes and I guarantee your camera will be out, as you cross some of the higher roads. 

The Camino Frances from Fonfria to Sarria is a delight but it is very rural.  Take time today to find quiet spaces, shorten your day and explore the villages and churches.  From Sarria the Camino will be different.

Sarria is without doubt a gateway; at 114 kilometres from Santiago de Compostela, pilgrim numbers do increase. But don’t let this be a negative!  With the rise in numbers come new faces, more services, more wonderful little albergue, quirky cafes and a fabulous pilgrim atmosphere.

If you prefer quieter trails, consider staying off the main stages at one of the smaller albergue or Casa Rurals; there are many to choose from. Enjoy the buzz that is Sarria. Enjoy your last days on the trail. Santiago is close but the remaining five stages still have much to offer!

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.