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Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado : Step By Step Guide To Stage 10 Of The Camino Frances

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In life, there is always a balance, and this holds true for the Camino Frances. After the beauty and highlights of yesterday’s walk, today’s journey from Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado offers a mixed bag.

You’ll leave behind the fertile landscapes of La Rioja and enter the region of Castilla y Leon, passing through a string of tiny villages. The terrain is gentle, with little elevation and few physical challenges.  Walking just under 23 kilometres, on paper, it might seem like a good day.  However,  you may discover that today is maybe not the most inspiring of days.

Remember; in everything there is a balance including on the Camino.  With the right mindset and expectations, today can still hold its own magic. Knowledge is power, so read on as I share tips to help you make the very best of this stage.

Walking The Camino Francés From Santo Domingo De La Calzada To Belorado

This stage may not have the dramatic highlights of previous days, but it does still offer historical landmarks, charming villages, and maybe one of the most talked-about parish albergues on the Camino Frances.

I’ve walked in spring and early summer and the fields are awash with wildflowers and green wheat. And every village seems to welcome pilgrims with pots of spring flowers and a bar or café where you can pause for refreshments.  However, if you’re walking in autumn, especially later into October, you’ll notice fewer services and I suspect this is likely true for those walking early in the year too.

Also expect the Camino to be rerouted in sections to accommodate the construction of the A-12 motorway extension. And then there’s the 5-kilometre stretch along the busy N-120 road before reaching Belorado.

Despite these changes, there is much to enjoy today; find beauty in the small stuff. The route is rich with history, beautiful architecture, and a few more than wonderful views. Belorado is a welcoming town, offering good accommodation and restaurants.  And don’t miss the glorious wall art scattered throughout the town or the charming main plaza, which makes a perfect place to relax at the end of the day.

Towns and Villages Between Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Belorado

Whilst we’ll walk through a string of small villages, services can be unpredictable. The last time I walked, there were surprisingly few and yet, just two years earlier, the villages offered plenty of options.

It’s a good reminder that what’s available will vary depending on the season and even the year. Fingers crossed for your journey; there are some real hidden gems if you catch them open!

Santo Domingo De La Calzada

We stayed in the Parador in Santo Domingo and these days, when walking with my groups, it’s always our first choice of accommodation.

Around the corner from the Parador and still on the Camino, you’ll find a little bar and restaurant, Casa Amparo. It doesn’t have the best reviews but we stumbled upon it one late October evening when everywhere else was closed for dinner, and it was a great choice. We liked it so much we returned for breakfast the next morning, and enjoyed both meals.

Top Tip: Many restaurants in Spain won’t open or start serving dinner until after 8:30 pm, which can feel too late for tired pilgrims. Keep this in mind when planning your evenings in low season.

The trail out of town is straightforward and well-marked. Shortly after leaving, you’ll pass the Ermita del Puente and then cross the aptly named Puente del Santo Domingo, a bridge originally built by Santo Domingo himself.  The bridge crossed the Rio Oja; after which the region was named.

From here, you’re quickly on rural trails, albeit close to the N-120. Thankfully, the views around you are still glorious and as you continue, the trail gradually pulls away from the road, leading you towards the pretty little village of Granon.

Granon (7 km)

Granon holds a special place in my heart; I have very many special memories here. I stayed here on my first Camino and it was where I really connected with my Camino family; still good friends more than a decade later.

I love the little village church, I love the beautiful, albeit simple, parochial albergue, I love the café where pilgrims gather beside the church, and the food truck, now permanently parked at the entrance of the village. There’s much to love about Granon.

It’s a village is steeped in history and legend. Settlements here predate the Romans, who named it Libia.  Granon appears in historical records as early as 884, and during the Middle Ages, its significance grew as the popularity of the pilgrimage grew. By the 16th century, the population had swelled to around 1,300; today fewer than 500 people call it home.

It was once home to two monasteries and a medieval pilgrim hospital, founded in 1085. The Church of San Juan Bautista, dates from the 14th century, and was originally part of one of these monasteries. While much of this history is now lost, the village continues to offer a warm welcome to those walking to Santiago.

If you’re looking to stay the night in Granon I can recommend :

Whether you stay the night or simply pass through, do take time to explore. Stop for refreshments in one of the cafes, visit the ancient church, and as you wander the village, look up. Apart from balconies dripping with vibrant red geraniums you’ll also maybe spot the house with large ant sculptures climbing up its exterior walls.

And as you leave the village, a small lookout offers steps down to the Camino and back into open countryside; the views from here are pretty nice too. The trail from Granon is easy, well-marked and takes you into the vast landscapes of Castilla y Leon. With one exception.  The Camino has been impacted by construction work on the A-12 motorway.

In October 2024, we found the original trail had been cut away near Redecilla del Camino. We decided to continue walking and crossed the roadworks a little further along, near the village, but this may not always be the case. By spring 2025, I expect markers will guide pilgrims but it’s wise to stay alert for changes and potential confusion.

Redecilla del Camino (3.9 km)

Guidebooks often list two albergues, a couple of bars, and a shop in Redecilla del Camino. However, during my recent visits, the reality has been a little more limited. The village bar was closed, with a prominent “for sale” sign, and only one albergue remained open.

Redecilla feels like a village in quiet decline; at least in the low-season. Perhaps in spring, it awakens from its autumn slumber, offering pilgrims a warmer welcome. However, it’s wise to be prepared for limited services, particularly if you’re walking early or late in the year.

The trail leaves Redecilla by crossing the N-120, after which you’ll find yourself back on a rural path, albeit briefly, before reaching Castildelgado.

Castildelgado (1.8 km)

Castildelgado is a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it sort of village; except for one glorious little corner.

While small, this little village boasts a big history. Its origins date back to at least the 10th century, with a Roman document from 926 referring to it as Villa de Pun. In the 16th century, a local man, Francisco Delgado López, rose to prominence as the Bishop of Burgos, and the village was renamed Castildelgado in his honour. His remains now rest in the Church of San Pedro, a late-Gothic structure dating from the same period.

And that glorious little corner? As you enter the village, on your right, you’ll find Albergue Bideluze. While it offers simple bunk-bed accommodation, it also offers a range of fabulous drinks, smoothies, and snacks. Even if you’re not thirsty, treat yourself to one of their smoothies; they’re perfect on a hot sunny day (and probably a cloudy day too!)

Albergue Bideluze is only open from mid-March to mid-October. If you’re passing it’s well worth a stop before you move on; you won’t be disappointed!

Viloria de Rioja (2 km)

Viloria de Rioja is another tiny village, that holds a significant place in Camino history. It was here, in 1019, that Santo Domingo de la Calzada was born. The village house where he was born, no longer exists but the village church, La Asunción de Nuestra Señora still houses the baptismal font where the saint was baptized.

Beyond its connection to Santo Domingo, there is little else in Viloria de Rioja.  It’s worth a stop though, to explore the church.  Once done, you’ll quickly follow the Camino arrows back into the open countryside.

Villamayor del Río (3.4 km)

Villamayor del Río is another tiny village typical of this region, with a medieval church and houses clustered along the main road. Fewer than 100 people live here now, and services are limited; most located across the busy N-120 road.

As you enter the village, you’ll notice flags on the opposite side of the road marking an albergue. I’ll be honest: it has mixed reviews, but it does provide basic services, including food, drinks, and a small shop for snacks.

We stopped here for lunch in October 2024, it was our first break since Grañón and a welcome stop. The albergue is popular with lorry drivers and we sat in what seemed like a former pole-dancing club; complete with mirrors, a glitter ball, and a pole! We restrained ourselves from dancing but the food was good and were glad of the drink!

A very short distance along the same side of the road is another restaurant, which I believe is called Casa Alba or Casa León. I’ve eaten there with the ditch-pigs group when picking up litter along the Camino one freezing December day. The lunch was excellent; perhaps too hearty for a pilgrim mid-walk but ideal for a longer pause.

Top Tip: You’ll need to cross the N-120, a busy major road. Please pay close attention when crossing; it’s not a pedestrian-friendly stretch.

As you leave Villamayor del Río, you’ll re-cross the N-120 and meander through the village before hitting the final stretch of the day. This part of the trail runs alongside that busy N-120 road. While the path is safe and clearly separated from traffic, it’s noisy, exposed, and perhaps a little dreary.

If you enjoy listening to music, now is the time to plug in your earphones and lose yourself in your thoughts until you see the rooftops of Belorado appear on the horizon. Personally, I only wear one earphone; I like to stay aware of my surroundings whilst walking.

Top Tip: Please don’t be that pilgrim who blasts music on their phone for every other pilgrim to suffer your questionable playlist.

Belorado (4.8 km)

At first glance, Belorado might seem like a functional road town, but venture into its heart, and you’ll discover its charms. Occupied since Roman times, by the 10th century, Belorado had grown into a thriving city and its strategic location led to the town being fortified in 1116.

During its heyday, Belorado was a bustling, cosmopolitan hub with eight churches and distinct quarters for French, Jewish, Christian, and Muslim communities. Each brought their own culture, traditions, and services, making the town quite the destination in the Middle Ages.

Today, while Belorado may have lost some of its medieval grandeur, it remains a welcoming stop for pilgrims and a few notable monuments worth exploring.

Many pilgrims will walk through the town, stopping briefly to visit the Iglesia de Santa María as they follow the trail out. While the church is well worth a visit, also take some time to visit the central plaza; there are a selection of bars and cafes if you’re looking for lunch.

Top Tip: Belorado is home to a series of beautiful wall murals and a few fancy floor plaques that mark the Camino trail.  

Where to Stay in Belorado

Belorado offers a variety of accommodations, ranging from traditional albergues to private hostels and guesthouses. Here are a few recommendations based on my own experiences:

Top Tip: Like Jakue in Puente La Reina, Hotel A Santiago lists its private rooms and bunk beds separately, so double-check your booking to ensure you’ve chosen the right type of bed.

Top Tip: Even if you don’t stay the night, the pilgrim menu is well worth a try!

Potential Problems Between Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Belorado

While this stage is generally straightforward, there are a few challenges to be aware of, including road crossings, limited services in the low season, and ongoing construction of the A-12 motorway.

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Francés Between Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Belorado

As I mentioned at the start of this post, today is a mixed bag. While there are certainly some wonderful views and ancient villages with lots of history, the stretches alongside the N-120 can feel less inspiring. After yesterday’s glorious trail from Nájera to Santo Domingo, today might seem a little more subdued in comparison.

Nevertheless, there are gems to be found. Make the most of the history in the villages you pass through, and enjoy the distant views of the mountains that edge the horizon. And when the path leads you alongside the road, lose yourself in your thoughts, quicken your pace, and before long, you’ll arrive in Belorado.

Today is all about Camino history. Each tiny village has its own story, offering hospitality to pilgrims for over a thousand years and steeped in legend, culture, and tradition. Whilst not every section of the Camino Frances can be glorious, we do know that walking here, in the footsteps of countless pilgrims, has helped shaped this region of Spain.  If nothing else, this shared history makes this stage of the Camino special.

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail eight times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily guides for each stage of the journey that you may find useful.