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Las Herrerias to Fonfria : Step By Step Guide to Stage 28 of the Camino Frances

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Today is the day; the one you’ve likely read about and if you’re anything like me, you’ve fretted over too. We’re walking from Las Herrerias to Fonfria, crossing the famed O Cebreiro pass, through the stunning Sierra de Ancares. We’re leaving behind Castile and Leon and stepping into Galicia.

There’s no question that today’s walk is challenging. The climb is steep, ascending over 600 metres to the tiny Galician village of O Cebreiro. You’ll feel the climb in your legs, no doubt. But by this stage, you’ll be stronger than you think and the reward is well worth the effort.

I’ve walked this route in thick fog, pouring rain, blistering heat and even a snowstorm. Every time it’s been beautiful. And every time, I look forward to my next visit.

Yes, today is hard; but also immensely rewarding. The sense of accomplishment, the stunning landscapes and the unique history of O Cebreiro makes it an unforgettable stage. To top it off, the day ends at one of my favourite albergue, where a communal dinner awaits us; and wine!

Walking the Camino Frances from Las Herrerias to Fonfria

Stage 28 of the Camino Frances is one of its most iconic and demanding sections. The trail climbs steeply at first to La Faba, then moderates slightly as you walk on to O Cebreiro.

Along the way, you’ll find a couple of cafes and albergue, offering opportunities to rest and refresh.  They aren’t always open but the last few times I’ve walked there has been at least one.

If you’re considering breaking this stage in two, there are also a few great options along the way, particularly in O Cebreiro. These days though, I prefer to stop for lunch and explore a little before continuing.

My preferred stage takes me to Fonfria, which means tackling a few more short, sharp climbs, including to Alto do Poio. Thankfully, the effort is rewarded with more spectacular views at the top and from here the elevation ends too!

Yes you should expect a few steep climbs today but also a few dramatic landscapes, and a shift in architecture and culture and even the cuisine as you enter Galicia. It’s a day of contrasts, and even the weather might be changeable. But by the end of today you will have tackled the queen of stages and you’re just a few days away from Santiago de Compostela!

Towns and Villages Between Las Herrerias and Fonfria

Today’s journey takes you through a few tiny mountain hamlets, with just a handful of residents. While small, some do offer a few services and places to pause and O Cebreiro offers accommodation, restaurants and it’s famous parish church.

Las Herrerias

Las Herrerias may be as old as the hills, but chances are you’ll be up at first light, eager to tackle the climb, with little time for sightseeing.

But before you leave, make sure you’ve had a good breakfast and have enough water and snacks to sustain you on the way up; this is not a stage to start thirsty or hungry. Services along this stage are never guaranteed, so it’s always best to be prepared.

These mountains may not be the Rockies, but they’re high enough to influence the weather. Sun protection, waterproofs and layering are essential. The weather can turn quickly and it’s wise to expect the unexpected.

I left Las Herrerias one sunny May morning, only to end up walking through a heavy snowstorm as we passed La Faba. By O Cebreiro, the entire landscape was blanketed in snow. It was a pretty magical experiences but a timely reminder that in the mountains, you should always be prepared!

Remember to use your walking poles too, to ease the strain on your legs and knees during the climb. They’re invaluable, especially on steep or slippery terrain.

Victor and His Horses

The last time I was here, I opted to ride a horse to O Cebreiro. I’ve walked this route several  times, and I’d seen and read about Victor’s horses, so I signed up.

Victor only has four horses, and he only takes them up to O Cebreiro twice a day, so availability is very limited. There’s no fancy booking system; just good luck and timing. If you do manage to secure a seat, you’re in for a glorious experience.

I hadn’t ridden in years, but I was glad for that past knowledge. Along the way, we encountered cattle, pilgrims, dogs, and even tractors, all of which the horses handled with calm steadiness. That said, it helps to feel comfortable around horses, as the trail can be unpredictable.  My horse was most interested in the hedgerows of wild flowers and pulling him away from his morning snacks was the biggest problem!

Riding a horse to O Cebreiro added a totally different perspective.  I’d go again and if you have the chance, I highly recommend it!

La Faba (3.5 km)

The trail from Las Herrerias to La Faba is well-marked, making it easy to follow. At first, you’ll walk along the road as you leave the village, but soon enough, you’ll spot a painted arrow on the ground and clear Camino markings pointing left. If you’re walking, you’ll turn off the road and onto a forest trail. Cyclists, however, will need to stay on the road and continue straight.

For me, the next couple of kilometres feel like some of the toughest of the day; much like the climb from Hunto to Orisson on Stage One. This shaded forest trail is steep in parts so expect it to get your blood pumping. Don’t worry, though.  The path becomes more manageable as you approach La Faba, with gentler gradients and a chance to catch your breath.

La Faba itself is tiny, home to around 20 residents, yet it has been a place of refuge for pilgrims for centuries. First documented in 1252 under the name Villa de Urz, its location near a segment of preserved Roman road hints at possible Roman origins. The village is also mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus, confirming it’s place in history as a waypoint before the climb to O Cebreiro.

Legend tells of German pilgrims who succumbed to the plague here, now commemorated with a plaque. Indeed, La Faba is home to a traditional pilgrim hostel run by the German Pilgrim Confraternity, beside the Iglesia de San Andres. Originally built in the 16th century and rebuilt in the 18th, it holds daily Mass for pilgrims.  Interestingly, this is the last church in the diocese of Astorga; you’re almost in Galicia!

The German-run albergue is another little gem, providing a traditional Camino experience. If you’re looking to add a few wonderful communal overnight stays then this is an albergue to consider. They don’t take reservations, so maybe plan a shorter day and arrive early to secure a bed.

La Faba also offers an opportunity to rest, with food and drinks available. The setting is pretty and usually busy, a great place to recharge.

Laguna de Castilla (2.4 km)

The trail continues up and as it continues, you leave the forest and the views open up and you get a taste of the hills you’re climbing.  Thankfully, in just a few kilometres, there’s another opportunity to rest.

Laguna de Castilla maybe the last village in Castile and Leon but everything about it suggests it’s Galician. If you’re hungry you’ll certainly find a bowl of Caldo Gallego (traditional Galician soup) here.

You’ll also probably spot the Galician Pallozas and their famous Horreo corn stores; the one in this village might be one of the largest you’ll see en route to Compostela.  In the mountains here they are often large and square and sit on criss-cross wooden beams.  They are similar to those you’ll see walking the Primitivo Camino in the Asturias and even very much like corn stores we spotted in the Ha Giang region of Northern Vietnam!

You can stay here at Albergue La Escuela, which also serves as a bar/cafe.  There are private rooms and bunks.  I’ve stopped for refreshments a few times but I’ve never stayed the night; however it gets good reviews and could be an option if you’d like to stay overnight in the mountains.

O Cebreiro (2.3 km)

Back on the trail, there’s more uphill. But just after leaving Laguna de Castilla, you’ll reach an incredible milestone; you’ll cross the border from Castile y Leon into Galicia!

And the views as you walk are amazing; but only if you have good weather! On my first walk we saw nothing :

And you will walk it too! Before you know it, you’ll find yourself in O Cebreiro.

The History of O Cebreiro

O Cebreiro has been occupied since ancient times. The iron-rich mountains have drawn human settlers for millennia. The distinctive pallozas, the circular stone dwellings with thatched roofs, hint at Celtic habitation predating Roman times. When the Romans arrived, they fortified this pass to protect vital trade and supply routes into Galicia.

However, it was pilgrimage that truly put O Cebreiro on the map. By the 9th or 10th century, pilgrim hospitals were established here and in the 11th century, the Church of Santa María la Real was founded.

In the 14th century, O Cebreiro became the site of the Miracle of O Cebreiro. During a snowstorm, a peasant braved the elements to attend Mass, and the bread and wine miraculously transformed into the body and blood of Christ. A silver reliquary, donated by Queen Isabel, holds the remnants of this Eucharist.

Father Elias Valina Sampedro

While O Cebreiro’s history is steeped in legend, it is also renowned for its connection to Father Elias Valina Sampedro, often called the Father of the Modern Camino.

Born in 1929 in a small Galician village, he pursued ecclesiastical studies and completed a doctoral thesis focused on the Camino de Santiago. This work laid the groundwork for his later efforts to restore the Modern Camino we know today.

In 1959, Father Valina was appointed parish priest of O Cebreiro. Deeply committed to preserving the Camino’s spiritual and cultural legacy, he began the monumental task of revitalising the route. And it is his yellow arrows, which continue to guide millions of pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela.

Allow time to explore this historic village. Visit the Church of Santa Maria la Real, and the ancient pallozas, and soak up the atmosphere of one of the most iconic villages on the Camino Frances.

For those who wish to stay overnight there are several options but these are the ones I know :

Top Tip : You’re in Galicia and the Municipal Albergue here are part of a network of albergue provided by the Xunta de Galicia.  They are generally very good, clean and with good bunks. Generally they have great kitchens but no utensils, so cooking is almost impossible. They do offer great value for money and generally well looked after and plentiful in Galicia.

Linares (3.3 km)

Leaving O Cebreiro, follow the arrows through the village, passing the pilgrim albergue on your right. Look out for the arrows leading onto a forested trail. I’ve missed this before and ended up walking along the road, which wasn’t as pilgrim-friendly. The views are great either way!

Linares is a quiet hamlet with just a handful of houses. While there is an albergue here, most pilgrims pause at the small shop, for a snack or drinks and maybe a photo! The village is surrounded by rolling hills and glorious views

This tiny hamlet has a surprising amount of history. Mentioned as early as the 8th century and again in the 12th-century Codex Calixtinus, it is said that the village got its name from the flax fields that once surrounded it. In the Middle Ages, they supplied linen to local weavers. There is very little left now but the Church of San Esteban, built before 1120, is worth a quick visit as you pass.

Hospital da Condesa (2.6 km)

From Linares, cross the road and follow the trail for a short section before rejoining the road at Alto de San Roque, home to a beautiful pilgrim statue. This bronze monument, created in 1993 by Galician sculptor José María Acuña, depicts a larger-than-life pilgrim leaning into the wind. It is said to symbolise the resilience and determination of those crossing these mountains on their journey to Santiago de Compostela.

Less than 2 kilometres further, you’ll arrive at Hospital da Condesa, a tiny village with more historical roots. It takes its name from a medieval hospital, established here in the 9th century. While the hospital itself no longer exists, the village does still have a Xunta albergue and a couple of bars. The last time I walked, the pilgrim lunch was excellent.

Padornelo (2.3 km)

Continuing on, you’ll follow the road with more expansive views before the trail takes you onto a smaller, quieter route. It’s here that you’ll encounter the last hill of the day. It’s short, but after so many kilometres, it packs a punch for tired legs!

In medieval times, Padornelo was under the ownership of the Bishop of Santiago de Compostela, part of the church’s effort to support and protect pilgrims. The village was also home to a pilgrim hospital, possibly connected to the Order of St. John of Malta.

Before you tackle the hill, there’s a water fountain and I’ve soaked my hat here more than once on a hot afternoon! Thankfully, once you crest this hill, there’s very little elevation left.  It’s pretty level all the way to Fonfría and eventually downhill to Triacastela tomorrow too.

And at the top of the hill you’ll find a small bar where you can pause for some well-deserved refreshments or continue on for the last few kilometres.

Fonfria Del Camino (3.6 km)

Leaving the bar behind, you’ll walk a few hundred metres before you reach the highest point of the stage, Alto do Poio, standing at 1,337 metres. The views from here are pretty fabulous and I hope you have a clear day to enjoy them!

From the Alto, it’s a gentle walk down to Fonfria, where your bed for the night awaits. Like the other hamlets along this stage, Fonfria has a history of serving pilgrims. Today, it’s primarily a rural farming community, but it’s also home to one of my favourite albergues on the Camino Frances and a wonderful communal dinner!

Where to Stay in Fonfria

I’ve stayed in this tiny village many times, and every time, I’ve chosen the same albergue. The communal atmosphere is wonderful and I know that I’ll stay there again.

For me the best part is the dinner. You’ll cross the road to a traditional Galician roundhouse (known as a palloza) and sit around an enormous communal table and share a feast with your fellow pilgrims. 

This albergue is my top choice every time, and I can’t recommend it highly enough. While there are other options in town, this is my favourite.

Potential Challenges Between Las Herrerias and Fonfria

The most obvious challenge today is crossing the O Cebreiro Pass. When I first walked this stage, I was so worried after reading stories about the climb and the second peak beyond it. Would it be as demanding as everyone said? In the end I coped admirably and these days as long as you come prepared you’ll do fine!

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances from Las Herrerias to Fonfria

I was so nervous about this stage when I first walked. Even after almost 700 kilometers, I doubted my abilities. It’s natural to approach these mountain trails with some trepidation and a healthy respect; but don’t let that turn into fear.

The walk from Las Herrerias to Fonfria is undoubtedly a challenging stage but oh my, it’s incredibly rewarding when you reach the top.  The landscapes are glorious, and a rich history with tales and legends of ancient lands and miracles.

Don’t doubt yourself today. Take your time and savour the journey. Embrace the beauty of Galicia, walk to Fonfria, share your stories over dinner, and maybe, if you’re lucky, someone will bring out a guitar in the bar after.  

Reflect on how far you’ve come today along this incredible path .  And sleep well. There are a few more hills tomorrow, but make no mistake; Santiago is within your sights now!

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.