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Palas de Rei to Ribadiso: Step-by-Step Guide to Stage 32 of the Camino Frances

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The first question today is should you end your stage in Ribadiso or Arzua.  I’ve done both but for this walking guide, I’m following the Brierley Stages over the last 100 kilometres; so we’ll end at the riverside hamlet of Ribadiso.

Stage 32 from Palas de Rei to Ribadiso offers a day of contrasts; rolling hills, peaceful farmlands, forest, villages, busy Melide and that riverside ending.  

I’d say that as much as I find yesterday harder, I find this stage a time for reflection. Regardless of where you started, Santiago is close and today is a day to find your rhythm, take your time and linger in quiet places.  If you can, I strongly suggest that you book your bed in advance and walk without worry not timescales.

With historical landmarks, a few very welcoming stops, and the occasional traffic jam of cows, today is all about soaking everything in. Whether you’re walking for spiritual reasons, personal growth, or the simple joy of moving forward, this is a day to embrace it all; crowds and all!

Walking the Camino Frances from Palas de Rei to Ribadiso

Stage 32 is a day of ups and downs. Quite literally there is a lot of elevation today, although for the most part the inclines are gradual and manageable.

Much like the last few days from Sarria, you’ll pass small hamlets, medieval bridges, ancient churches, and farmlands dotted with traditional horreos (grain stores). Forests of eucalyptus trees become more prominent today too.

The trails are generally good and well-marked.  And midway you’ll arrive in Melide, famous for its pulpo a la gallega (Galician-style octopus) and as the point where the Camino Primitivo joins the Camino Frances.

Towns and Villages Between Palas de Rei and Ribadiso

Today’s stage offers plenty of opportunities to pause.  As always though, I recommend you start your day with breakfast; the bars you expect to find on the trail may not be open as you pass.  Likewise, be sure to carry enough water

The trail will be busy today, but are still plenty of quiet corners and lovely little restaurants; and I recommend you explore at least a few. And if you’re planning to split this stage or spend the night between Palas de Rei and Ribadiso, I know of a few wonderful options.

Palas de Rei

If you spent the night in Palas de Rei, grab breakfast before leaving; there are lots of places on the trail but you’re never 100% sure they’re open.

The arrows take you through the heart of the town before quickly leading to quieter paths.

For those in need of supplies, be aware that those arrows guide you quickly in and out of the centre, bypassing shops and services. If you’re stocking up, you may need to detour slightly to find what you need.

If you’re looking for somewhere to stay; these are my two favourite options:

As you exit town, keep an eye on the arrows. The route meanders slightly and you’ll cross the busy main road a couple of times; indeed for the first 15 to 20 minutes, you’ll alternate between roadside and trail.

You’ll leave the road at Carballal and stay on quieter paths until San Xulian.

Top Tip : When I last walked this section, parts of the Camino around San Xulian had been rerouted due to roadworks but temporary signs were clear and there was no added distance.

San Xulian do Camino (3.7 kms)

According to legend, Saint Julian killed his parents in this village, by mistake and after a prophecy foretold his actions. Horrified, he spent the rest of his life in penance, dedicating himself to helping pilgrims.

His story, though rooted in legend, has earned him recognition as the patron saint of innkeepers thanks to his unwavering commitment to hospitality. The Iglesia de San Xulián, dates back to the 12th century and is dedicated to him.

The village itself is tiny, with a single main street. On my last visit, I sat drinking coffee whilst an old farmer lead three slow-moving cows down that street; a snapshot of Galician village life.

There are two wonderful places to pause :

As you leave San Xulian, the arrows lead you back onto peaceful paths, through more sleepy hamlets with options for pausing or staying the night including :

Casanova (2.2 kms)

After La Casa Domingo at Ponte Campana, the arrows lead you back onto a paved path, through more rural splendour until you reach Casanova. Along this section, the Camino is lined with ancient oaks;  which is really lovely to see amidst the eucalyptus trees which now feature through much of Galicia.

Casanova offers two excellent eateries and a municipal Xunta albergue, making it a good choice for an overnight stay.  

Top Tip : As with all Xunta albergue, be aware that the kitchen may not be well-equipped. Also check the hours of the bars, as you might need to enjoy a good meal earlier and grab a snack for supper if they close early.

Continuing, you’ll cross a small bridge over a stream at Porto de Bois. It’s hard to imagine now, but this tiny, peaceful spot was once the site of a battle so fierce that, according to legend, the stream ran red with blood.

Coto (2.9 kms)

The Camino brings you back onto the main road at Campanilla, which you’ll follow into the village of Coto. There are a couple of bars and accommodation choices here, including one of my favourites. On my first Camino, I wrote in my journal :

Leboreiro (0.6 kms)

Just a few hundred metres along, you’ll arrive in Leboreiro, which translates as Place of Hares. Mentioned in the 12th-century Codex Calixtinus, the village was an important stop on the way to Santiago. It is said to have thrived between the 11th and 13th centuries, before gradually falling out of favour.

The village is also home to a distinctive type of grain store known as a cabazo. Unlike the more common Galician horreos, these are small, woven, basket-like structure with a thatched roof.

Even more fascinating is the local legend of a mystical spring that appeared near the Iglesia de Santa Maria. The spring was said to glow at night and emit a sweet fragrance during the day. Villagers discovered a statue of the Virgin Mary, which they believed to be a miraculous sign.

A wooden sculpture of the Virgin was later made and placed into the church’s tympanum, where it remains to this day.  The church, dedicated to her, became a significant site for medieval pilgrims.

Furelos (3.9 kms)

From Leboreiro there is more road walking, as you approach Melide, but the arrows do a good job of keeping you away from the tarmac.

Furelos is an ancient village with a history that predates Roman times. Archaeological finds in the area include several mamoas, 2,000-year-old burial mounds. By the 12th century, it had become an important stop on the Camino de Santiago.

There was a documented pilgrims’ hospital here and the village was once under the ownership of the Knights of Saint John. It’s church is dedicated to Saint John but only one original wall remains. Furelos does however retain its medieval bridge; considered to one of the jewels of the French Way.

There is a bar at the bridge and we managed to grab a coffee and breakfast once but with hindsight, I’d recommend crossing the bridge into Melide where there were more options.  

Melide (1.5 kms)

Melide’s roots also extend back to prehistoric times, with the surrounding region of Terra de Melide rich in archaeological remains. Whilst it is thought there was a Roman settlement, the first documented mention of the area was in 747. 

Historical records of Melide start from the 10th century, and as pilgrimage traffic increased, so did the establishment of hospitals to serve pilgrims on the way to Santiago de Compostela.

If you’re lucky enough to arrive on market day, take time to stroll through the stalls of local produce. We bought half a truckle of local cheese and enjoyed its salty taste long after our return home. And in spring, there’s an abundance of sweet strawberries and cherries.

Despite being inland, Melide gained fame as one of the best places in Galicia to enjoy pulpo a la gallega (Galician-style octopus). This dates back to the Middle Ages when octopus was preserved and transported from coastal areas to inland monasteries. Pulpería A Garnacha is said to be one of the best restaurants; sadly not for me as I’m allergic to molluscs.

I’ve never stayed overnight here but friends tell me that the two best options are :

Boente (5.8 kms)

Leaving Melide can be a little tricky. As with any town, following the yellow arrows is harder in urban areas, especially when albergue owners add yellow arrows to their signs.

Follow the arrows into the older, narrower streets of Melide, and you should quickly find yourself back in a more rural setting. You will pass the Igrexa de Santa María de Melide, and from here walk along small country roads and tree-lined tracks.

About a kilometre outside Melide, you’ll encounter an alternative route. There’s little to choose between the two options, but I’ve always taken the right-hand path, which leads through forest trails. Where they rejoin, there’s a café. If it’s closed, it will be almost 6 kilometres from the centre of Melide before you reach Boente, so plan accordingly.

Boente itself is a long, drawn-out village but the first bar you reach is maybe the best. 

You’ll leave town passing the 12th-century Church of Santiago de Boente,  It’s worth a visit, usually open, and you can collect a sello here.

Castaneda (2.8 kms)

Make sure to stop for refreshments in Boente, as the next few kilometres offer little in the way of services and plenty in terms of elevation! There is a small bar in Castaneda, on the Camino as you leave the village. But, the last time we stopped, food options were limited.

According to the Codex Calixtinus, Castaneda was the site of ovens used to produce lime for the construction of Santiago’s cathedral. Medieval Pilgrims were asked to bring stones here with them from Triacastela to be processed.  

You don’t need stones but do be prepared for a few steep ups and downs as you walk to Ribadiso.

Ribadiso (2.5 kms)

A bridge has existed in Ribadiso since at least 572 AD. The bridge you see today isn’t the original, records show another was built in 1188 and yet another in the 13th century.

The Albergue de Peregrinos de Ribadiso de Baixo is a historic pilgrim hostel situated on the banks of the Iso River. Dating back to the 13th or 14th century, the original building served as the Hospital de San Anton. In the early 1990s, the Xunta de Galicia undertook a significant restoration project, reopening the albergue in 1993.

I stayed here in 2018. While it was a little spartan, the camaraderie among pilgrims more than compensated. I shared the experience with a friend and as we cooled our feet in the river, she stepped away over the bridge and took our photo. Less than a year later, she died.

I walked again in 2019 and wrote :

Where to Stay in Ribadiso de Baixo

Ribadiso is another village of two halves. If you’re planning to spend the night here instead of moving on to Arzua, I’d recommend staying closer to the river. if you can’t find a bed here, I’d walk on.

Accommodation is limited; for me there are just two choices.  Both near the bar and restaurant which tends to be the centre of activity for pilgrims.

Potential Challenges Between Palas de Rei and Ribadiso

As we approach Santiago, there are fewer challenges for pilgrims, but each stage still has its considerations, and today is no exception.

Top Tip : Please do not play music loudly as you are walking; it’s a nuisance for your fellow pilgrims and for the people who live and work along the trail.

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances from Palas de Rei to Ribadiso

As we approach Santiago de Compostela I always tell my groups to slow down.  You’re tempted to rush.  You’re close to the end and it feels like you need to get there.  But trust me; once you do you’ll wish you were back on the trail.

If you’ve been walking for sometime, today is a strange day and very often one of reflection.  You see, tomorrow is the last day.  It’s not, I hear you say but the walk into Santiago is different from any other day; so tomorrow is your last ‘normal day on the trail’.  Which means today is almost the last.

I lose myself in my thoughts today, which is a shame as there is a lot to see. But make no mistake, the kilometres are running down and today serves as a gentle reminder to slow down and savour the moment.  Forget the crowds and the hills, think about the connections that you’ve made and reflect on your journey and the simple joy of walking.

Tomorrow will be different; today is simply setting the stage for journey’s end.

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.