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Sarria to Portomarin: Step By Step Guide to Stage 30 of the Camino Frances

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Welcome to the Camino Frances! If you’re starting your journey in Sarria, congratulations; you’re about to embark on an incredible adventure.  And if you’re walking onwards from earlier stages, rest assured that the last 100 kilometres will not disappoint!  Today is a glorious stage.

I’ve walked the last kilometres into Santiago many times and I know I’ll be walking them again. From Sarria to Portomarin you’ll experience the magic that is Galicia; full of history and legends and stunning countryside. And cows!

If you’ve been walking for a while, your legs will be ready for the challenge. If you’re starting in Sarria, then be prepared for a few hills. Galicia’s rolling countryside is both beautiful and at times demanding.

Along the way, expect rural splendour, charming stone villages, wild spaces, and yes, even a few wandering cows. Welcome to Galicia.

Walking the Camino Frances from Sarria to Portomarin

You’ll walk up and out of Sarria, quickly finding yourself crossing medieval bridges and into open countryside, following quiet country roads through the green landscapes of Galicia.

Today’s stage offers a mix of terrain, including forest trails, farmland and quiet lanes. While there’s a fair amount of road walking, it’s mostly on peaceful roads. You’ll encounter gentle ascents and a short challenging section to test tired legs on the descent into Portomarin.

You’ll pass the 100 kilometre marker today; the point where the numbers drop to double digits. For those who’ve been walking from St. Jean Pied de Port, this is a huge milestone and worth celebrating, so be sure to stop for a photo!

Towns and Villages Between Sarria and Portomarin

Today’s stage is dotted with tiny hamlets, it feels like you’re passing through a new village every 15 minutes. Many of these are just a handful of houses, but there are nonetheless still services today.

Sarria

Sarria is the largest town you’ll pass through today, though Portomarin offers plenty of services too. If you’re looking for somewhere to stay in town my favourites are :

Wherever you’ve spent the night, make your way to Rua Maior. This street is in the heart of the old town and not only the perfect place to grab breakfast and stock up on supplies, you’ll also find the yellow arrows here.

As you head uphill from Rua Maior, you’ll pass the enormous white S A R R I A letters; ask a fellow pilgrim to snap a picture to mark the start of this stage. From this point, the arrows are plentiful. The route today, and indeed all the way to Santiago, is well marked.

Leaving town you’ll cross the Ponte Aspera.  This bridge is often associated with Roman engineering, but the current 12^th or 13^th century bridge was built on the foundations of the earlier Roman crossing. From here you’ll follow quieter trails, chocked full of wild flowers in spring.

Top Tip: Be cautious of scammers posing as charity workers along the trail. They often carry ID and clipboards to seem legitimate but are not associated with any recognised organisation. Supporting them only encourages their activities, so it’s best to politely decline and continue on your way.

Pilgrim Services in Sarria

If you’re arriving in town and still need to pick up a few last-minute items or your pilgrim credential head to these destinations :

Top Tip: To qualify for your Compostela, you must collect two sellos (stamps) every day. While some may claim they didn’t follow this rule and all was fine, the rules are clear.  Follow the official guidelines to avoid disappointment in Santiago.

Vilei (3.6 km)

The trail to Vilei leads mainly along country tracks running between stone walls.  And everywhere there are reminders that this is dairy country. The villages you walk through may be home to just 3 or 4 houses but there may also be a tiny chapel.

Vilei is one such village.  A few solid looking stone houses, gathered along the main road. In 2021 there were 23 people living here. 

But even with the small population, as you enter the village you’ll find a great little albergue and cafe on your right.   I’ve not spent the night here but I’ve stopped on many occasions for lunch and drinks and never been disappointed.  This might be a good stop if you wish to walk on from Sarria.

O Mosteiro / Barbadelo (0.6 km)

The village names here can be a little confusing, but rest assured, less than a kilometre from Vilei, you’ll discover a glorious little corner of the Camino.

Firstly, as you arrive, take a moment to look back; the views behind are fabulous. Secondly, there is a tiny slice of Camino history here too, but you’ll need to step off the Camino to view it.

On your left, just a few metres from the trail, is the Romanesque Church of Santiago. The site dates from 874, when the original monastery here was founded. The monastery was initially home to both nuns and monks, which was a rare feature of its time.  By 1009, the monastery was linked to the Monastery of Samos and by 1120, it was a male-only establishment but also housed a pilgrim hospital.

Now just a small rural church it’s still worth taking a look at the Romanesque craftsmanship; and the carved scallop shells around the entrance.

Mercado A Serra (1.8 km)

From O Mosteiro (Barbadelo), you’ll meander through the tiny hamlet of Rente. Still on the road, but shaded in places by beautiful oak and chestnut trees. When the sun is hot, I often find myself darting between the patches of shade to enjoy the cooler air under the trees!

From Rente, you’ll arrive at Mercado A Serra.  Its name, meaning Market of the Ridge, and as you might expect, it was the site of a medieval market. Merchants from the region would gather here to sell their wares. Goods, livestock, and services were exchanged among villagers, travellers, and pilgrims alike.

Today, there’s very little here, but there is a bar; it will be a few kilometres before the next so pause if needed.

Peruscallo (3.1 km)

From Mercado A Serra, the trail follows the same country road, winding through more of Galicia’s glorious rural scenery. As you approach A Pena, you’ll find a little cafe on the roadside.

More of a bakery than a traditional bar, this spot has changed a great deal over the years. When I first passed, it was just a small bakery with a couple of tables outside. Now, there are plenty of tables, a shaded seating area, and even vending machines. Every time I visit, it seems to have grown a little more! 

Take a seat in the garden and if you’re lucky the local farmer will herd his huge flock of sheep as you rest!

If you don’t need a break stay on the road and continue following the arrows.  And if you’re considering breaking the stage, you’ll find a great little house just a few hundred meters ahead.

Brea (2.6 km)

From Peruscallo, the next few kilometres offer a mix of small roads, paved paths and trails often between shaded dry stone walls and leafy trees. And don’t forget to keep looking back;  the views are often glorious.  

You’ll pass through the tiny hamlets of Cortinas and Lavandeira, where life just seems to move at a slower pace. Occasionally, a resourceful farmer might leave fresh produce or handmade cakes for sale along the trail. Other times, you’ll only spot a distant tractor or a sleeping dog.

Brea itself is another tiny village, but it does boast a great coffee stop. Look for a modern white building on the right. The owners are incredibly welcoming; they may also sell ice creams!

Morgade (0.5 km)

Morgade sits at 101.6 kilometres from Santiago. One of the last overnight stops where pilgrims can begin their walk to qualify for the Compostela; at least under the current rules, which may change in 2025 (keep an eye on my Camino Facebook Group for any news of this development).

I’m not sure this is even a village but the Casa does offer a bar, restaurant and Pension and it’s one of my favourite stops.  I’ve stayed here on my last few visits and my group will be staying here again on our next walk. Morgade offers a great evening with good pilgrim vibes in a lovely setting.

Ferreiros (1.4 km)

Ferreiros is the last village before the Camino distances drop into double digits. While it’s not a large village, Ferreiros is part of the wider Paradela parish.  And it’s home to a wonderful café, on the corner as you enter. If it’s busy walk just a few hundred metres further and you’ll find another excellent choice!

For those looking to stay the night, Ferreiros has a couple of albergue options:

Just along from Ferreiros, you’ll first pass that second cafe and then the Chapel of Santa María in Mirallos. This chapel has a fascinating history: originally built in the 12th century, it was relocated stone by stone from Ferreiros, a few hundred metres down the road, to its current location in 1790. Despite some renovations, it retains much of its original Romanesque character.

There are also references to a pilgrim hospice here run here by the Knights of St. John, but nothing remains today. Mirallos itself translates to Look At or Lookout, and as you’re passing, it’s well worth a quick look.

Just a few hundred metres beyond the chapel, you’ll reach that important milestone. I’ve read that the most graffitied marker of the entire Camino Frances, lives about 1.6 kilometres out of Morgade; just after this tiny church.  It must have been new the last time we walked as it’s got none!

You’ll pass the 100 kilometre mark and from here, the distances seem to drop far too quickly!

Mercadoiro (3.4 km)

From the 100-kilometre marker, the arrows guide you along more quiet roads and rural tracks through more tiny hamlets. Much like earlier in the day, you’ll discover farms, hamlets of houses, and occasional opportunities to pause. Every time I walk, I seem to discover a new little corner to explore.

You’ll pass through Pena, Rozas, and Moimentos; all tiny hamlets of stone houses which are so common in rural Galicia. The views from Rozas are lovely and in Moimentos, you’ll find a few shaded seats around a vending machine. There’s even a bus stop, which Gerry insists is one of the best picnic spots; because they’re usually covered and with seats.

Parrocha (1.6 km)

Leaving Mercadoiro, if you’re in search of a colourful shell to take home, look out for the little shop A paso de Tortuga in Moutras. It’s the perfect place to find one although be warned; you’ll be spoilt for choice.

As you climb up the hill (don’t worry, it’s long but with a gentle incline) you’ll be rewarded with fabulous views from the top and Portomarin will come into view.

Parrocha offers a great spot for food and drink. Bar O Descanso is a a little gem, serving excellent coffee and a great burger. It’s a good lunch stop if you’re looking for a meal with a view.

Vilacha (1.6 km)

Continuing onwards, you’ll begin your descent toward Portomarín, passing through the last hamlet of the day; Vilacha.

This little spot boasts another lovely albergue and cafe at Casa Banderas; and they offer a fabulous fruit smoothie!. Unfortunately, they faced some challenges in 2024 and had to close. BUT the good news is that it’s set to re-open in 2025!

Leaving Vilacha, you’ll face a choice about how you approach at Portomarin. Both routes are short but steep and both lead you to the bridge before the town :

At the split, there’s a sign clearly showing both options. On a fine day, either route offers great views of the bridge and the river below, so you really can’t go wrong!

Portomarin (2 km)

Portomarín holds the unique distinction of being the newest oldest town on the Camino de Santiago. The original medieval village was submerged in the 1960s when the Mino River was dammed to create a reservoir. However, some of the town’s historic buildings were carefully relocated stone by stone to higher ground before the flooding.

If you go exploring, visit the Church of San Nicolás, where you can still see the numbers and markings on the stones; made to ensure the buildings were reconstructed exactly as they once stood.

Portomarín has been a settlement for millennia, and first documented in 993. In 1126, a new bridge and pilgrim hospital were commissioned for the Order of the Knights of St. John, and by the mid-1600s, there were several pilgrim hospices here.

But before you enter Portomarin, you’ll face two obstacles; the Bridge and the Steps!

Top Tip: While you may be tempted to walk in the middle of the road to avoid the edges, the road is busy with fast moving traffic, so stick to the pavement.

Where to Stay in Portomarin

Portomarin isn’t a large town, but it offers a good selection of accommodation. Some directly on the Camino, while others are just off the route but still good choices. I’m not listing everything here as there are too many; but these are the places I know and would personally recommend.

Firstly though, with 86 beds, the Municipal Xunta Albergue is a large albergue and if I’m honest it doesn’t get the best reviews. My advice would if you’re looking for a comfortable bunk bed explore other options in town first.

Potential Challenges Between Sarria and Portomarin

Today is a baby bear kind of day; not too hard, not too easy, but just right. At 22.2 kilometres, the distance isn’t too long or too short, and while there’s some elevation, it’s gentle and spread out, making the climbs manageable.

There are plenty of services and lots of history to enjoy, but here are a few things to keep in mind.

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances From Sarria to Portomarin

Every year, thousands of people begin their journey to Santiago de Compostela from Sarria. In fact, it’s more like tens of thousands, and that number is only set to grow.  Should this concern you? Absolutely not!

Instead, embrace the opportunity to make new friends. Share tables, strike up conversations in coffee queues and offer advice to those who might feel unsure. The Camino is a community as much as a journey, and all of these things will only enhance the experience.

I once walked with a young woman from the 100-kilometre mark to Santiago. She had taken time off work to walk for just this one week, and her joy was infectious. She loved every minute; every hill, every conversation, every bunk bed, every cow! 

Her joy was contagious and she taught me to embrace the last 100 kilometres.  She taught me to see the beauty in the landscape. She taught me to see the Camino through fresh eyes and that lesson has stayed with me.

Today’s trail from Sarria to Portomarin is glorious. You’ll wander through rolling green Galician countryside, past ancient oak and chestnut trees, between stone walls and lots and lots of farms. Along the way, you’ll find pretty  little cafes and donativos and roadside stalls offering all manner of souvenirs.

Enjoy the trail today. Take your time, be kind, seek out quiet corners.  Visit the churches, have a picnic; even if it’s only a bus stop. Today is a good day on the Camino, and you have less than 100 kilometres to go before you reach Santiago.

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.