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Bercianos del Real Camino To Mansilla de las Mulas: Step By Step Guide To Stage 19 Of The Camino Frances

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I’m not going to sugarcoat it—I found today’s stage hard. Walking from Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas can feel repetitive and monotonous. The Meseta reveals its true character here, with flat, expansive landscapes and vast cereal fields stretching endlessly to the horizon. But those distant mountains are there still framing the view.

At 26.3 kilometres, this stage offers fewer distractions than earlier ones, but don’t let that discourage you. This is a day to embrace the rhythm of walking and let your thoughts wander. And there are still a couple of highlights to keep you going. My favourite? The quirky Bar Elvis in Reliegos. Or maybe the dramatic, moody clouds that roll in when rain threatens.

So, lace up your boots, pack plenty of water, and keep your eyes on the horizon—because Leon is getting closer!

Walking the Camino Frances from Bercianos del Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas

Leaving Bercianos del Real Camino, you’ll find yourself walking a well-trodden path, lined with small plane trees, maybe offering bursts of intermittent shade although limited depending on the position of the sun!

This path parallels the quiet LE-6615 country road for nearly the entire day, guiding you steadily across the vast plains of El Paramo. You may be tempted to walk on the road instead of the trail, but resist the urge. It’s a long day, and your feet will thank you for sticking to the softer, more forgiving dirt path.

We do pass through two small towns where you can refuel and refresh. I’d recommend you stop at both and grab a bite to eat and drink. And of course, lets not forget Bar Elvis in Reliegos with its quirky décor and an atmosphere as memorable as the drinks.  But, I’ll also say that sadly it’s not always open.

Your day ends in Mansilla de las Mulas, a busy little medieval town with everything a pilgrim could need

Top Tip: This stretch of the Camino is featured in the film The Way when Tom walks along the trail and looks up to see his son leaning against one of the plane trees.

Towns and Villages Between Bercianos del Real Camino and Mansilla de las Mulas

Locals call this land El Paramo; flat lands with sparse vegetation, dominated by grasses and cereal fields which can feel remote and empty, with vast horizons and little shade. They have a point!

Today, the area feels in decline, with small adobe villages dotting the landscape but it was once prosperous, thriving on the wool and wheat trade that shaped its history.

Today you’ll pass through two such settlements. Make the most of them; pause, enjoy a drink and talk with your fellow pilgrims. These breaks are your opportunity to not only recharge your batteries but also your spirit, as you travel across the last of the flatlands.  

Bercianos del Real Camino

On my last Camino, I stayed at Albergue La Perla, just a few hundred metres outside the village. Wherever you stay, I’d highly recommend having breakfast there before heading out; it will be almost 8 kilometres before you find any services.

Bercianos del Real Camino does have a handful of services: a few bars and albergues, and a small shop. However, it’s important to note that these may not be open early in the morning. Do your shopping and pick up any essentials the evening before.

The yellow arrows will lead you along Calle Mayor, easing you back into open countryside. You’re back beside the country road (now on your right), and entering the expansive plains of El Paramo.

There’s a small pilgrim picnic area partway along this section, but on more than one occasion it was clear that some pilgrims had used the area irresponsibly as a toilet stop. I can’t stress this enough: leave no trace. The Camino belongs to all of us, and it’s essential to keep it clean and respectful for those who come after.

From the picnic area there are several kilometres still to walk, along a very straight road before finally, El Burgo Ranero comes into view!

El Burgo Ranero (7.8 km)

El Burgo Ranero owes it’s history in part to the wheat and wool trade; and wool was very big business in the 10^th and 11^th century.  Some folks associate the town name with frogs (ranero in Spanish), but it’s more likely derived from rañero, which refers to an area of low scrubland; a fitting description of its surroundings!

On our last visit, we discovered a glorious little café on Calle Real near the entrance to the village: La Costa del Adobe. Their freshly made smoothies were just what we needed.  The food here is great too and it’s a popular stop for pilgrims as they come into town.  They also offer private rooms if you’re looking for a bed!

Thankfully, there are better options in El Burgo Ranero today. Alongside La Costa del Adobe, there’s the Municipal Albergue de Peregrinos Domenico Laffi, which also comes with good reviews.

Top Tip : Make sure you have water before leaving town; there are over 12 kilometres of exposed trail to walk, back beside that road, before you reach the next town!

Reliegos (12.9 km)

Welcome to the flatlands; a landscape once teeming with sheep and shepherds who moved their flocks along ancient routes as seasons changed.

These windswept steppes, now sparse and empty, were once part of the region’s thriving sheep industry.  Today you’re better searching the sky for hunters; kestrels and black hawks and kites that ride the thermals looking for prey.

Reliegos, is though still a vibrant stop for pilgrims. Once a Roman stronghold called Palantia and noted in medieval records as early as 916, today it offers a good selection of accommodations and services.

And, of course, there’s Bar Elvis. This bright blue building, covered in graffiti, is as eccentric as its larger-than-life owner. Inside, every corner is filled with quirky memorabilia, music will probably be playing loudly and you’re invited to leave your mark on the walls.  And of course, it even made an appearance in the movie The Way.

I haven’t stopped for longer than food and drinks, but if you’re planning on staying the night, La Parada and Las Hadas Albergue are popular choices.

From here you have another 6 kilometres along that road, with the plane trees now providing some shade, until you finally reach Mansilla de las Mulas and I have to say the very worst of the flatlands is behind you.

Mansilla de las Mulas (6.3 km)

As its name suggests, Mansilla de las Mulas was once an important trading hub for muleteers traveling the ancient roads of Leon. Known as Mansella to the Romans, by the 10th century, it had gained fame for its bustling mule market, a sign of its growing importance in medieval trade.

The town’s history is layered. The Romans fortified it with walls, as did the Moors during their occupation. Over the centuries, Mansilla changed hands many times, and by the 13th and 14th centuries, its medieval walls were rebuilt to their current form. At its peak, Mansilla was home to two monasteries, four pilgrim hospices, and seven parishes. However, by the 18th century, much of this had disappeared, leaving only remnants of its once-flourishing past.

Today, much of Mansilla’s medieval walls remain intact, wrapping around the old town. Within the walls, you’ll find narrow streets and a lovely central square, Plaza del Grano, perfect for an evening wander or a quiet coffee stop.

Mansilla de las Mulas has long been a natural resting point for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. As one of the last towns before Leon, many pilgrims choose to stay here for the night.

I’ve stayed here twice but on other occasions, I’ve taken the last bus into Leon to avoid the urban walk into the city; an option even John Brierley suggested in his 2014 Camino Frances Guide.

Where to Stay in Mansilla de las Mulas

Mansilla de las Mulas is a good-sized town offering all the services. We found a decent supermarket and were able to cook dinner for ourselves when we arrived. But remember, many shops close for the afternoon siesta and things run very much on Spanish time. If you’re planning to pick up supplies, it’s best to arrive early to avoid finding everything closed.

The town has plenty of bars serving drinks and pilgrim menus, but some of the more well-known spots get mixed reviews, so it’s worth checking recommendations.

Potential Challenges Between Bercianos del Real Camino and Mansilla de las Mulas

This stage of the Camino is as flat and straightforward; which, ironically, is part of its challenge. While the terrain is gentle, it’s the enduring the monotony that often catches pilgrims off guard.

Monotony of the Landscape : The trail today runs alongside the road and it feels as if someone drew it with a ruler; straight, flat, and endless. For me this is perhaps the hardest day in the Meseta, much like the walk out of Carrion. For some, the vastness can be meditative, but it can also feel unrelenting. Chatting with fellow pilgrims, listening to a podcast or audiobook with your earbuds can help or simply focusing on the thought that León is getting closer can all help make the day pass.

Limited Shade : You’ll walk beside the road all day and while there are trees, they don’t always provide shade where you need it. I’ve walked this stage in both blazing sun and pouring rain, and in either case, protection is essential. Bring sunscreen, a hat, or a UV umbrella and plenty of water. And don’t forget rain protection; keep a pack-cover, a raincoat or poncho handy depending on the forecast, and be prepared for the exposed trail.

Sparse Services : There are just two stops along the way for refreshments, and while they’re well spaced, services are limited. Make sure you start the day with plenty of water and snacks to keep you going. And as always, remember to leave no trace. The Camino is a shared path and keeping it clean ensures its beauty for everyone.

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Bercianos del Real Camino and Mansilla de las Mulas

When people talk about the boring Meseta, I imagine they’re referring to days like today. But not all of the Meseta is dull. The walk from Burgos is wonderful, and likewise from Terradillos, through Moratinos. Sadly, today’s stage though doesn’t quite offer the same high-points.

But walking the Camino isn’t about cherry-picking the best parts; it’s about embracing all that it offers, the good, the bad and the challenging. It’s often said that the road from St Jean Pied de Port will challenge you physically, while the Meseta will challenge you emotionally.

Today is undoubtedly one of those days, where the monotony tests your patience and determination. But as we draw closer to Leon, we are reminded of the promise to be remade in the final days to Santiago de Compostela.

Yes, today may be tiresome, but there are still a few sparks of beauty if you look closely.  And, as you walk through the last stretches of El Paramo, remind yourself that your days in the flatlands are nearly behind you. And that alone is worth celebrating.

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.