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Terradillos de los Templarios To Bercianos del Real Camino: Step By Step Guide To Stage 18 Of The Camino Frances

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Our stage continues across the Meseta, but I always feel today is a little more varied, with rolling hills (and a few more trees) adding some interest to the landscape. The journey from Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino offers not only lots of history and pretty landscapes; it also brings you two important milestones.

Today you’ll leave the province of Palencia and step into the majestic Kingdom of Leon. For those who started in St Jean Pied de Port, this is also a day to celebrate as you will pass the traditional halfway point of the Camino Frances; you’ve officially walked more kilometres than you have left to go.

Enjoy the walk into Sahagun and take a moment to consider all that you’ve seen and achieved so far on this journey.  And afterwards, prepare yourself for the final days on the flatlands before the landscape begins to change again.

Walking the Camino Frances from Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino

Starting in Terradillos, the path takes you through a few tiny villages, more open fields, and a gently rolling landscape offering a little more variety than yesterday’s long stretch from Carrion de los Condes.

The terrain remains mostly flat, with well-maintained trails and quiet roads, more history, more stories of the Knights Templar and a few excellent eateries along the way.

At Sahagun, you’ll find a town rich in history.  I’d recommend allowing at least an hour or two to explore or even considering spending the night here.

Towns and Villages Between Terradillos de los Templarios and Bercianos del Real Camino

Thankfully, today offers ample opportunity for refreshments and the terrain is kind with no major challenges. For those who enjoy exploring slowly or prefer staying off the main Camino stages, there are also plenty of options for overnight accommodation.

Terradillos de los Templarios

The village where the legend of the Goose and the Golden Egg is said to have originated marks the start of today’s stage. This small Templar village is steeped in history, and if you stayed overnight as you leave your albergue, you’ll quickly find the yellow arrows to guide you out into the open countryside.

Unlike yesterdays walk into Terradillos, there are no route variation out; you’ll mainly follow gravel trails or quiet country roads. However, there are a few points where the Camino meets the N-120; remember to stay alert to traffic and practise good road sense.

If you’re hoping for a first or second breakfast or morning coffee, you’re in luck; just over 3 kilometres away, as you enter Moratinos, you’ll find a fabulous little cafe ready to welcome pilgrims.

Moratinos (3.4 km)

A short walk brings you to Moratinos, where the first building you’ll encounter is an excellent cafe (and hostel). But there are several other reasons why I love this little village beyond a good cup of coffee!

Moratinos is known for its traditional bodegas, underground wine cellars carved into the hillsides. These unique, hobbit-like structures are an oddity but they remain in use by some locals and give a hint of the wine culture that has existed here for so long.

If you’re looking for food, you have two great options:

If you’d like to stay overnight, Moratinos offers several accommodation options :

And my friend?  Rebekah Scott is an amazing woman who does such a incredible work for the Camino.  Originally from Pittsburgh, she was a prize-winning journalist before moving to this tiny village.  She’s author to a few glorious books and if you love the Camino then you’ll love these!

And she is founder of Peaceable Kingdom Projects and works tirelessly for the Camino de Santiago. Take a look at her website and give generously to her projects.

San Nicolas del Real Camino (2.6 km)

San Nicolas del Real Camino is another ancient village with roots stretching back to Roman times. It also had strong ties to the Knights Templar; however, in 1183, they traded the village to King Alfonso VIII in exchange for other lands.

During the 12th century, the village was home to a pilgrim hospital run by the canons of St. Augustine. This hospital was dedicated to caring for lepers and could accommodate up to 13 patients at a time. Pilgrims arriving when the hospital was full would have had to wait for a place to open before receiving care.

The Church of San Nicolss Obispo is worth a visit if it’s open. It is said to house a 13th-century Virgin and Child, a nod to the medieval history of the village.

For modern pilgrims, there is also popular bar and pilgrim hostel, perfect for those choosing to walk off the main stages.

Ermita de la Virgen del Puente (4.5 km)

As you leave San Nicolas, the trail eventually leads you up a gentle incline and alongside a busy motorway. From here, you’ll catch your first glimpse of the lands of Leon; you’ve walked out of Palencia!

Continuing on, before reaching Sahagun, you’ll come to a small park, and cross a medieval bridge before arriving at the Ermita de la Virgen del Puente.  Constructed in the 13th century, the Moorish design reflects the huge influence the Moors had on this region of Spain.

Historically, the hermitage served as both a pilgrim hospital and a leprosarium. It was initially managed by the Canons Regular of Trianos, and later, from the 16th century, by the Chapter of Priests of Sahagun.

Sadly I’ve never been able to visit inside the Ermita, but I do encourage you to stop and explore if you can. Many pilgrims pass by without realising the rich history of this building.

Equally significant, as you leave the Ermita, you’ll cross a monumental milestone: the geographical halfway point of the Camino Frances. Two stone statues mark the location, standing as sentinels at the gateway of the Centro Geográfico del Camino; the halfway point between Roncesvalles and Santiago de Compostela.

Sahagun (3 km)

Sahagun has roots stretching back to Roman times, and has been the birthplace of kings, saints and scholars. However its name and identity is closely tied to Saints Facundo and Primitivo; martyred for their faith in the 3rd century, by the ruling Romans. Their graves became pilgrimage sites where miracles were reported, and their relics were later housed in the Monasterio de San Facundo.

By the 11th century, Sahagun was the most important religious and economic centre in Leon outside the capital. In the Middle Ages, it was a thriving hub for pilgrims and a melting pot of cultures. The town even boasted a university, which operated until the 17th century before relocating to Irache (near the famed wine fountain in Estella on Stage 6).

Today, Sahagun retains some of those historical monuments, but for me, it also feels in part of a town in decline. For pilgrims though, it’s a good place to explore.

While Sahagun isn’t the endpoint for this stage, it’s worth considering as an overnight stop. But even if you’re just passing through, allow extra time to wander and appreciate what the town has to offer.  You’ll need to ignore the arrows through, as they lead you through quickly, bypassing a few highlights.

Like many towns along the Camino Frances, Sahagun offers a variety of accommodation options; I’ve stayed and would recommend :

Top Tip: Sahagin marks the halfway point of the Camino Frances, and you can obtain a Halfway Certificate or Carta Peregrina. While not an official document, it’s a little souvenir of your achievements. Ask in the Tourist Information but you usually have to go to Santuario de la Virgen Peregrina, on the outskirts of town.

Bercianos del Real Camino (10.3 km)

Leaving Sahagun marks the beginning of what I’ve seen called The Flatlands on a piece of graffiti; and it’s an apt description. Steel yourself for long stretches with very little to break up the monotony, as much of the trail follows a long quiet country road.

After around 4 kilometres, you’ll come to a roundabout and an important route variation :

I’ve always chosen the Camino Real, and based on what I’ve read and heard, I recommend sticking with it. While the Via Trajana may sound kind of interesting, it offers little or no shade or services, and the rockier, uneven terrain can be hard underfoot.

Take the Camino Real, but be aware that arrows may be confusing. The Camino Real veers to the left at the roundabout, and you’ll find arrows marking this way. Just remember: if you see two roads with arrows, take the one to the left.

Top Tip : If in doubt, my trusty Wise Pilgrim App is a great resource; it shows your location and reassures you that you’re on the right path.

From this point onward, the Camino Real follows the same country road pretty much all the way into Bercianos del Real Camino. I found an interesting little observation about this leg in Laffi’s Camino Journal of the 1670’s, where he reports coming across the body of a dead pilgrim; and two wolves had begun to eat it! Thankfully, wolves are no longer a problem on this stage!

Top Tip : There are no services for the next 10 kilometres, so be sure to carry plenty of water.

Where to Stay in Bercianos del Real Camino

The tiny village of Bercianos del Real Camino was granted to the monks of Sahagun in 966, and they established a pilgrim hospice here. Today, while the hospice is long gone, the village continues to offer hospitality to pilgrims, with several albergue to choose from.

I’ve stayed in two and would happily recommend both. However, there is also the municipal Parroquial Casa Rectoral; which offers traditional pilgrim accommodation and is also highly rated.

Potential Challenges Between Terradillos de los Templarios and Bercianos del Real Camino

Today’s stage, like much of the Meseta, offers relatively easy terrain with few physical challenges. Combined with ample opportunities for rest and refreshments, it’s one of the less demanding days on the Camino. That said, there are two concerns :

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Terradillos de los Templarios and Bercianos del Real Camino

I really enjoy the walk from Terradillos de los Templarios to Bercianos del Real Camino; it’s more interesting than yesterday’s long walk out of Carrion de los Condes. There’s still plenty of history to uncover and opportunities for rest and refreshment.

While the trail remains flat and perhaps a little monotonous after Sahagun, nonetheless today is a good day on the Camino Frances.

That said, I know many pilgrims choose to skip parts of the Meseta, often because they’re short on time. If you need to trim a few days, Sahagun is a practical point. A train or bus from here can take you into Leon, saving a couple of stages.

But for those continuing on, today, like all your days on the Meseta, is an opportunity to soak up the landscapes, enjoy the quiet, and notice the little details that make walking so interesting.

Trust me, in a few days, the terrain becomes more rugged, and you might even miss the warm, flat lands of the Meseta.  And remember, you’ve walked 400 kilometres, and you’re on your way to Santiago!

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.