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Roncesvalles to Zubiri : Step By Step Guide to Stage 2 of the Camino Frances

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I’ve walked Stage Two of the Camino Frances nine times, both on my own and while leading groups. I know this day well, and I know the challenges (and fears) you might face today.

You’ll likely feel more relaxed. You’ll start to recognise familiar faces, and you’ll find more than a few coffee stops in the beautiful Navarrese villages; although one of my favourites had sadly closed when I passed through in May 2025.

You might still be tired after the climb from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Maybe your feet are starting to complain or your pack doesn’t feel quite as comfortable. And then there’s the descent into Zubiri, which many pilgrims dread.

Nicknamed the Dragon’s Teeth, the descent was improved in September 2025. But have they been pulled and has the dragon really been tamed? In this guide, I’ll walk you through what’s changed, what to look out for, images of the new changes and help you to enjoy one of the most beautiful stages of the Camino Frances.

Walking From Roncesvalles To Zubiri: Stage Profile

Towns And Villages Between Roncesvalles and Zubiri

Today is a beautiful walk. In contrast to yesterdays wild mountains, you’ll pass through villages with cafes and flower-festooned houses.

And I’m sure I’ll say this 100 times about each stage between Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Pamplona, but take my advice and book your bed in Zubiri before you leave Roncesvalles (or even before you leave home, if you can). Zubiri can, and often does, sell every bed. I know as I’ve been that pilgrim, running to the edge of town to grab the last bunk at Albergue Suseia.

Today is a joy to meander, especially when your legs are still feeling yesterday’s climb. So book your bed, take your time, and enjoy every step.

1. Roncesvalles / Orreaga

Starting from Roncesvalles, you can have breakfast at the hotel, Posada, or Casa Sabina. It’s worth noting that the alarm goes off at 6:00 am in the pilgrim albergue, but breakfast isn’t served until 7:30. Most pilgrims wait at Casa Sabina for something to eat and drink so it is very busy when the doors open.

Top Tip: Luggage transport companies arrive early in Roncesvalles, as it’s the first stop of the day. I’ve known them arrive as early as 7:15 am so be ready, or your bag may be left behind.

Some pilgrims prefer to be walking early and skip the breakfast queue. If you’re in the pilgrim albergue, you might be able to grab a coffee from the vending machine but it can be temperamental. The next possible breakfast stop from Roncesvalles is Burguete, just 3 km away, but I’ve known it to be closed, so don’t rely on it.

You’ll probably stop for a photo beside the famous road sign that shows the distance to Santiago de Compostela. After that, the trail enters a wooded area where light is limited in the early morning.

This forest is called Sorginaritzaga, which translates as the Oak Wood of Witches. In centuries past, it was believed to be home to witches and spirits who gathered here to dance and perform rituals, long before pilgrims walked these paths.

Legend says that nine women from a local coven were burned at the stake, and a white cross known as the Cruz Blanca was placed at the forest’s edge in the 1500s to purify the woods. The one you’ll see today is a modern replica.

I never recommend walking in the dark, especially when leaving Roncesvalles. But if you do, a torch can be helpful, especially if the thought of witches and spirits gives you goosebumps!

2. Burguete / Auritz : 3 kms

Burguete is a small village just 3 kilometres from Roncesvalles. There’s a great little café as you enter which is normally open and serves good coffee. But on Sundays or local holidays, I’ve seen it closed, so do bring snacks and water just in case.

As you cross the road following the Camino arrows, you’ll spot a mini-market that’s also usually open, though again, not guaranteed! If it is, it’s a good spot to stock up, and it’s often busy with pilgrims.

If you’d rather not stay in Roncesvalles and choose to walk on, there are several good places to sleep in here, including the very lovely Lorentx Aterpea albergue.

This section is well-marked and mostly flat. The only real issue is that pilgrims tend to forget they’re walking on a road and end up two or three abreast. I’m sure we annoy the locals trying to get to work or school and who have to navigate around pilgrims every day. Use the pavements where possible and be aware of traffic.

Keep an eye out for arrows on the road as you leave. You’ll turn right a few hundred metres through the village and it’s clearly marked. Once you turn, a small slope leads down to a bridge over a river. In summer it might be a trickle, but in spring when the snow melts or after heavy rain, it can be a raging torrent.

I love the following kilometres. It’s a wide, easy trail for the most part. The early morning light is glorious, and you’re walking through a beautiful rural landscape. Expect cows and horses, the occasional splash of wildflowers, and a few stepping stones or old stone bridges to cross.

There’s a hill here to climb. Nothing dramatic, but enough to get your attention. Indeed, the terrain becomes a little more rolling from here. Just shorten your stride (remember the rest step) as you climb and don’t forget to look back at the Col you crossed yesterday.

3. Espinal / Aurizberri : 3.7 kms

The Camino drops you into Espinal, another delightful Basque village with green-painted shutters, bright red geraniums, and a very modern-looking church. The village was founded in 1296 and has long been a popular resting point for pilgrims.

I’ve always loved the old bar in this village. In 2021 when everyone else was closed, he opened and welcomed pilgrims and his tapas really were Spain on a plate. A few years ago, a new bar/hostel opened immediately opposite the village entrance and in May 2025, my favorite bar was gone. I hope not because everyone stops at the first bar?

Thankfully, Hotel Rural Basque Irati is a worthy replacement. We stopped for chilled strawberry smoothies, which were very welcome on a warm day. It does get busy, but it’s a great little spot to pause and recharge. There are also a few other accommodation options in the village.

Once you’re refreshed, continue walking through the village but keep an eye out for the Camino arrows. This time, you’ll turn left off the road.

Another hill awaits just beyond the turn. As always, shorten your stride and keep a gentle, steady pace. And don’t forget to stop and look behind you, indeed all around the views are amazing.

4. Alto de Mezquiriz : 1.9 kms

There are no services here and nothing to mark the high point but there are some wonderful views.  In the following section you’ll need to cross the N-135 road a few times.  This is a reasonably busy road and the vehicles travel at speed so do keep your wits about you as you cross.

Some parts of the Camino trail have been paved from here.  The intention was to stop the trail eroding but the steps can have an odd short rise.  It’s not difficult but it’s good to stay aware and watch your footing.

As you approach Viskarret you’ll need to cross another river.  There are large blocks that act as huge stepping stones and on sunny days, pilgrims pause and take photos and chat.  If you’re like Gerry and hate stepping stones (I know and don’t ask) you can walk around the river on the road above.

Top Tip : Many pilgrims remove their shoes and socks and cool their feet in the water but do be aware the ground can be very slippery and I’ve seen folks paddle more than intended. 

5. Viskarret / Guerendiain : 3.2 kms

This village is also called Biscarret and Biskaret and was even mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus as Biscarretum.  As you walk into the village the first place you’ll see is a very popular pilgrim bar. This was also one of my favourites but it has changed somewhat and in 2025 a second bar opened, a minute further on, and a glorious little space.

And if this is too busy there is another in the village; you walk by it after crossing the road.

Viskarret is a great stop for an early lunch or second breakfast and I always look forward to a slice of Tortilla and a very cold coke zero.   Do expect a long stop at the bar and for the loos, most pilgrims will be like you and enjoying a pause.

Once refreshed you’ll continue on through the village, crossing the road which splits the village in two.  There is accommodation here and on my first Camino I spent the night in a stunning little country hotel called Casa Batit.

This is such a pretty village with a lot of history.  Take some time to look at the door lintels as you walk through as many are dated.  There is also little shop as you leave the village and it’s a good idea to buy provisions and water. 

You’ll wander on for a few more kilometres through more quite lanes and rural splendour.  You’ll cross that busy road again and walk on towards the village of Linzoain.

6. Linzoáin : 2 kms

There’s a small Posada (small hotel) in Linzoáin and a 13th-century church, but what I always remember is that this village marks the start of todays big hill.

The climb begins just as you leave the village. The trail is exposed with little shade, so be sure to wear a hat, and apply sunscreen. I enjoy this hill, but I always take my time and pause in shade for a drink.

Top Tip: The path narrows as you head higher. If you’re moving at a slower pace (like me) and feel pressure from faster pilgrims behind, just step off the trail at a convenient point, take a breath, enjoy the view, and take a few photos.

It is here where the Dragon begins to show its Teeth. That nickname refers to the jagged rocks pushing up through the path. They’re fascinating geologically but they deserve your attention! You can read more about them on the Camino forum if you’re curious.

The hill leads into a beautiful forest section, and the incline eases. It’s a peaceful stretch with welcome shade, but there are no services, so make sure your water bottle is full.

The trail leads through the woods and is wonderfully shady but can be uneven with tree roots and loose stones; even fallen trees after one spring storm! Take your time, watch your feet and maybe find a quiet spot to rest and have a snack.

Eventually the trail drops back to the road, and you’ll be rewarded with a welcome sight; a food truck at Alto de Erro. Expect it to be busy but it’s a worthy stop before the descent down to Zubiri.

7. Alto de Erro : 4.6 kms

Stop here. You’ll be glad to see the food truck and it’s the perfect place to rest your legs and get a cold drink. They also offer a sello. From here, today’s elevation is done. All that’s left is the descent into Zubiri.

You’re about to face the Dragon’s Teeth; or maybe not? Like the approach into Molinaseca from Rabanal, this trail has a reputation among pilgrims. The geology is fascinating, but I’ve always breathed a sigh of relief once the last person in my group crosses safely over the bridge into Zubiri.

The last time I walked the Camino Frances was in May 2025, just a few months before the local authorities brought in a digger and altered the descent. A move that sparked no small amount of debate on pilgrim forums. I haven’t walked it since, and I don’t know exactly how many teeth were pulled. I hope some of its wild rugged beauty remains, but I also understand why the changes were needed.

Photos online show a smoother trail now. Are the Dragon’s Teeth truly gone? I can’t say for certain until I walk it again; hopefully in 2027. Either way, my advice remains the same: take your time and watch your feet, especially on tired legs. This descent isn’t terrible but deserves your attention. But I did love the rustic wildness!

Top Tip: Some pilgrims opt to follow the road down to Zubiri in bad weather. But it’s a busy, narrow road and that is not the best or safest option. And may no longer be required with the changes to the trail.

8. Zubiri (Puenta de la Rabia) : 3.5 kms

Well done, you’re almost there.  To enter Zubiri you need to cross a bridge which takes you off the Camino.  The trail and the arrows will continue onwards and upwards and I know that some pilgrims miss the turn and keep going. If you’re staying in Zubiri (and it’s a good choice) then turn right and go over this beautiful little bridge. 

In Basque Zubiri means “The Town of the Bridge” and the earliest documented record of this little town was in 1040.

Even if you plan to walk on you should stop and admire the bridge or go find some refreshments.  On my first Camino I paused beside the river and soaked my feet.  A lady came out of one of the houses with some cold watermelon which I shared with a French priest whilst we watched children play in the little park beside the water.  It’s a lovely memory.

9. Zubiri : 0.5 kms

I stay in Zubiri with my groups.  Walk over the bridge.  Keep walking and at the end of the road, at the T-junction, there is a lovely bar café on the left corner.  The food is great and the drinks are cold.

Zubiri is a good size town with all services and the perfect place to end your day.

And in summer there is a municipal swimming pool which is glorious after a hot day on the trail!

Where To Stay In Zubiri

There are a number of albergue in town (private and municipal) but there are a few favourites that I return to, time and again and happily recommend

Top Tip : Zubiri often fills up! There are always more pilgrims than beds.  BOOK AHEAD. I cannot stress enough how much easier your life will be if you book your first few days. 

Potential Problems Between Roncesvalles and Zubiri

Today is a good day on the trail.  There are many places to stop for refreshments and for a large part of the day the trail is relatively easy.  If you’re stopping in Zubiri the stage (at 22 kms) isn’t too long which also means you can linger and not rush.

However there are few things that you should consider.

My Final Thoughts on the Roncesvalles to Zubiri Stage

Reaching Zubiri should fill you with a sense of accomplishment. The walk from Roncesvalles is not without it’s challenges and you’ve conquered them.

The Camino de Santiago is more than just a walk to a destination, it’s an experience.  And today you will start to grow in confidence and start to make friends as you walk. 

My stage guides are intended to equip you with confidence to help you embrace the Camino and help you prepare for whatever the Camino throws your way.

Take these final reminders with you:

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail eight times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily guides for each stage of the journey that you may find useful.

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :