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Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles: How Hard is Stage 1 of the Camino Frances?

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Are you planning to walk the Napoleon Route from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles? I’ve made this journey nine times, and I can’t wait to return for my tenth.

I’ve walked solo and led groups along this spectacular stage, crossing the Pyrenees from France into Spain. I’ve tackled it in sunshine, rain, snow, fog, and bitterly cold wind, from April through to October, and I’ve loved every single journey.

And the question I’m asked most often? How hard is Day One?

There’s no sugarcoating it. You gain considerable elevation, and even the downhill is no walk in the park. On my first Camino, nerves got the better of me and I started from Roncesvalles, a decision I regretted for the next 800 kilometres. Thankfully, as I live in southwest France, I returned a few months later and walked the full stage. A decade on, I still keep coming back.

With the right preparation, the first stage of the Camino Frances is well marked, straightforward, and incredibly rewarding. And if you need to, I’ll show you four different ways to split the stage, to make it more manageable. Preparation is key, so keep reading and I’ll walk you through distances, terrain, services, and the bag forwarding rules from St Jean.

Walking From St Jean Pied de Port To Roncesvalles

It would be foolish to say that Stage 1 is easy; it isn’t. This hike from St Jean Pied de Port To Roncesvalles crosses the Pyrenees via roads and mountain trails, gaining 1,365 metres of elevation over 25 kilometres.

It’s a challenging walk. But if you’re in good health, have trained and prepared properly, and have the right shoes and gear, you can absolutely do it.

Read on to discover exactly what to expect on Day 1, including:

Is the St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles stage difficult? Yes. This is one of the hardest days on the Camino Frances. It is a long day, it is steep in places and can be affected by weather, but it is manageable with preparation, pacing, and with the option to split the stage.

St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles – Distances

Stage 1 of the Camino Frances isn’t the longest, and for many hikers, 25 kilometres might not sound too daunting. But what makes this stage challenging is the elevation. And don’t under-estimate day one nerves, tiredness from travel and general excitement and anxiety.

Wise Pilgrim, Wikiloc, AllTrails, and John Brierley estimate this stage to be between 24.3 to 25.1 km, with Brierley’s guide listing it as 25.1 km.

I’ve always considered it 25 kilometres, so I’m sticking with Brierley’s measurement! But for reference, here are key distances along the route:

St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles Elevation

Between St Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles you’ll gain 1,365 metres in elevation; most of it within the first 20 kilometres. The final 5 kilometres are downhill, offering some relief after the climb.

I’ve seen condensed elevation profiles of this stage, including those provided by the Pilgrim Office in St. Jean Pied de Port. When the distance is compressed, the climb looks almost impossible. But don’t worry! The profile below gives a more accurate representation of what you’ll actually walk.

So How Hard is the Napoleon Route from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles?

It’s challenging—but just how challenging depends on the individual.

The first time I walked this stage, I thought my lungs might explode climbing from Hunto to Orisson. The third time, my walking buddy was so fast we practically skipped over the mountain. These days, I prefer to take my time and enjoy the journey.

The real question is: How fit are you? Be honest with yourself. Walking the Camino Frances to Santiago isn’t for the faint-hearted, and Stage 1 is a tough day. But I’ve led many pilgrims over these mountains who thought they couldn’t do it. Don’t let a lack of confidence hold you back!

Difficult is not the same as impossible. When I lead groups, I always recommend :

The key is to get active and stay active. If you’re carrying a few extra kilos, try to lose some. Most people plan their Camino months in advance so use that time wisely. But don’t rush; start slowly and build up your fitness.

Essential Preparation Before Walking Stage One

A few years ago, I met a woman at the Statue of the Virgin. The ground was waterlogged, and I helped her back onto the trail. She was 83 years old, on her 25th Camino, carrying a full rucksack.

The climb from St. Jean to Roncesvalles is a challenge but with the right preparation, it’s completely manageable.

Options to Break the Stage Over Two Days

For many pilgrims, the thought of walking 25 kilometres from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles in one go feels overwhelming. If that’s you, don’t worry, you don’t have to do it all in one day!

You can split the stage and spread the journey over two days. This is my preferred way to walk over the mountains. Not only does it make the climb more manageable, but it also gives you more time to soak in the beauty of the Pyrenees.

There are two main options :

Spend Two Nights in St Jean Pied de Port : Using Pilgrim Transport

If you prefer to split this stage over two days, you can use shared pilgrim transport to return to St. Jean Pied de Port after your first day’s walk. Express Bourricot and Donkey Service offer this service, and local taxis provide the same option. As you walk, you’ll likely see pilgrims being ferried back and forth along the route.

For most of the day, you’ll follow a small country road, which stays with you for about 15 kilometres, aside from an off-road section after Hunto.

You can arrange a taxi pickup from several key points along the route.

This option allows you to stay a second night in St. Jean, leaving some of your belongings behind and carrying only what you need. This is a popular option, so do book your bed and your seat in advance!

Donkey Service And Express Bourricot

There are two providers in St Jean Pied de Port; I thought they were the same company but I learned differently when I volunteered in the Pilgrim Office. They’ll move both bags and people across the mountain on both the Valcarlos and Napoleon routes.

It you’re staying at Orisson, they only accept bags from Donkey Service!

Take Two Days to Walk To Roncesvalles : Stop at Orisson or Borda

The second option is to split the stage over two days and spend the night in the mountains. This is my preferred choice. Not only does it make the climb easier, but if you’re lucky, you’ll witness both sunset and sunrise over the Pyrenees. Plus, you’ll share dinner and conversation with fellow pilgrims in one of the two mountain hostels along the route.

Be like me and take your time. Have a leisurely breakfast in St Jean and enjoy the walk to Orisson. Stop here for lunch and drinks in the company of pilgrims before walking on to Borda. Borda doesn’t open early so make the most of your time at Orisson, soaking up the views, before moving on.

A word of caution though, when we walked in 2025, Orisson was very busy. We weren’t able to sit inside and it was damp and miserable outside. If you are hoping to stop for a full lunch I recommend you reserve your table in advance.

Top Tip : Both of these options book very quickly. Do not assume that you can find a bed when you arrive. If you would like to spend the night in the mountains then book before leaving home!

Top Tip : Have your bag transported for the first few days if it is more comfortable. Donkey Service (essential for Orisson) Express Bourricot and CaminoFacil offer luggage transport services.

What to Expect : Step By Step Guide To Stage 1 of the Camino Frances

The Napoleon Route is both breathtaking and challenging. However, the path is well-marked, and for the most part, you’ll either see other pilgrims ahead, behind or walking alongside you.

1. Leaving St Jean Pied de Port & Walking to Hunto (0-5 km)

The trail starts in St Jean Pied de Port; you can find a much photographed trail marker just above the Pilgrim Office on Rue de la Citadelle.

Leave town through the Porte d’Espagne, across that famous bridge. Stay on this same road and you’ll pass a bakery that is usally open early; make sure you have a snack and some water before passing.

You’ll walk through the old city walls and it’s here there is often a little confusion. There are three roads, but you’re going straight, and immediately start to climb. The road climbs steadily at first but don’t worry, it quickly eases.

After the initial climb out of town, the road levels, and the incline becomes more gentle for the next few kilometres. All around you’ll find the rural splendour of meadows, farms and forests, offering beautiful views almost immediately. My mantra for the next 800 kilometres is don’t forget to look behind you!

Top Tip: This section follows paved roads, so do be mindful of traffic. Many pilgrims forget basic road safety and often walk 2 or 3 abreast. Make sure you walk on the left hand side of the road, facing oncoming traffic and spare a thought for local drivers who have to weave around pilgrims every day.

As you approach Hunto (Honto), the road steepens again. Pause here if needed. In previous years you could stop here and find toilets, a vending machine, and seating at the entrance. But in 2025 it was all locked and I’m not sure if this option will be available again?

Instead, a minute further alone there was a pop-up refreshment stand with some seating. It was there in April 2025 and a few folks in my Facebook group reported it open in September 2025 but one did say it was closed when she walked by. Another important reason to carry drinks and snacks.

2. Steeper Off-Road : Hunto to Orisson & Borda (5-10 km)

After Hunto, you leave the road for the first time. For me, this is the most challenging section, although some of my walking buddies disagree. The first time I walked I thought I’d never reach the road!

The next 2 kilometres are steep, so take your time and don’t forget to stop and look back at the stunning views of the valley below. I cannot stress enough how beautiful the landscape is. And research how to walk using a rest step, it really helps take the sting out of hills.

From this off-road section, you’ll rejoin the road at a Table d’Orientation; a viewpoint where, on a clear day, you might be able to spot St. Jean and the walls of the Citadelle in the distance. And you can congratulate yourself on coming so far!

A little further along, you’ll reach Orisson (at 8 km), and Auberge Borda a kilometre later. If you’re splitting the stage over two days, this is where you’ll stop for the night.

Top Tip: Orisson gets busy and on a wet day you might have to stay outside. If you plan on stopping for a full lunch then book ahead and reserve.

3. Orisson to the Cross of Thibault (10-15 km)

The road continues to climb from Orisson. After a kilometre you’ll spot Borda on the left. Laurent installed a coffee corner in 2025. He has a vending machine for pilgrims so carry some change if you fancy a pause. You’ll need to walk down his drive and walk around the right hand building to find the machines.

Walking on you’ll reach one of the most overlooked stops on the trail; the Virgin of Orisson (Vierge de Biakorri) at 11.6 km. It’s just a few metres off the trail on the lefthand side but many pilgrims walk on without stopping. Do take a moment to visit; it’s a special place with spectacular views.

After the Virgin, you’ll stay on the road for another 4 km until you reach the Cross of Thibault.

Important Note: There are no services beyond Orisson, but if you’re lucky, you’ll spot the food truck just before the Cross. This is the last chance for a drink, snacks, or a quick rest before tackling the next section.

And as always! Don’t forget to stop and look at the views as you walk. I see so many pilgrims head down tackling this stage, they are so intent on their goal that they forget to admire the breathtaking views around them.

4. Leaving the Road & Walking to Col Lepoeder (15-20 km)

At the Cross of Thibault, you finally leave the road—yeah! There are markers to guide you off the road and onto the grassy trail. Stick to the markers and follow the arrows over the hill. You might pass grazing sheep and hopefully, you’ll enjoy spectacular views!

From here, the trail leads onwards toward the highest point of the day at Col Lepoeder. The first off road grassy hill, can feel a bit steep but it’s followed by a more gentler incline leading into the forest.

In the forest the trail levels and you can enjoy some much appreciated shade on a hot day!

Along the way, you’ll pass the Fountain of Roland, where you can refill your water bottles. A short distance later, you’ll cross into Spain and enter Navarre. Many pilgrims miss the significance of this border crossing, but it’s worth stopping for a quick photo at the marker!

5. Reaching the Highest Point & Descending to Roncesvalles (20-25 km)

After the forest, the path opens up, the Col is ahead and you’ll walk by Refugio Izandorre and shelter for pilgrims in need or rescue.

Top Tip: This small stone shelter is for emergency use. If conditions become dangerous or you are medically unable to continue, Refugio Izandorre provides basic protection while you wait for help. Located between snow posts 43 and 44. Emergency International Operator in Europe is 112.

Hopefully, you’ll be in fine fettle and continue on, up and around the Col! And congratulations! You’ve reached the highest point of Stage 1 at Col Lepoeder.

From here, it’s all downhill to Roncesvalles. If you use walking poles, now is the time to adjust and lengthen them, they’ll help ease the strain on your knees during the descent.

The views from the top are absolutely stunning. As you walk forward, you’ll leave the mountain scenery behind and begin your descent into Navarra, and onwards to Roncesvalles.

Which Route Down to Roncesvalles? Forest or Road?

At the Col Lepoeder you are faced with incredible views of Navarra and a choice of two paths.  Go left (which is more like straight on) to walk down through one of Europe’s largest beech forests or go right to walk down along an abandoned road.  I’ve walked both. 

The Pilgrim Office in St Jean and your accommodation might recommend you that go right and take the road.  The path down through the forest can be very steep in parts and slippery when wet. You might hear “left is death and right is life“. That’s a tad dramatic but on balance I really do prefer the road.  The views are wonderful, you get to walk through varied terrain and forest.

Top Tip : From the top you first take a very short trail, there is a signpost here and a Camino marker. This is where you take the road to the right. Do remember that the forest is more in front of you rather than left!

Going right, along the road you also pass by Franco’s bunkers at Ibañeta; built as a defensive barrier along the French Spanish border from the Mediterranean to the Cantabrian Sea. 

At the bottom, you walk by an enormous cross and a modern church, which marks the spot of original Pilgrim Albergue. In medieval times, it was not Roncesvalles but Ibañeta that hosted pilgrims. It is also here that the Valcarlos route joins the Napoleon route.

Whichever route you choose your journey will end at the historic monastery of Roncesvalles; although your first stop might be at the Posada for celebratory refreshments.

Essential Tips to Make the Most of Stage 1 of the Camino Frances

The Napoleon Route from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles is one of the most spectacular hikes along the Camino Francés. I love this stage, and I always look forward to my next walk.

But before setting out, remember that a little preparation goes a long way. Here are my top tips to help you make the most of your journey and arrive safely in Roncesvalles.

My Tips for Walking From St Jean to Roncesvalles

Calling for Emergency Assistance

If you feel ill or suffer an injury while walking from St. Jean to Roncesvalles and cannot continue, follow these steps:

1. Stop & Seek Help

2. Call 112

3. Keep Warm & Stay Safe

4. Carry Emergency Essentials

Consider carrying these lightweight, life-saving items, they cost very little and weight nothing :

Important: I am not a medical professional, and this is not medical advice. If you are unwell or injured and unable to continue, seek professional medical assistance immediately.

Where to Stay in Roncesvalles

Just as I recommend booking your accommodation in St. Jean or in the mountains in advance, I also suggest reserving your bed (and your dinner) in Roncesvalles ahead of time.

Beds are limited in these early stages, and I like to know that no matter how slow I walk, my bed is waiting for me at the end of the day. I strongly recommend that you do the same. This route is stunning, so why rush? I cannot tell you how freeing it is to know this is sorted.

There are four main accommodation options in Roncesvalles, all within a minute’s walk of each other.

Spoiler Alert : A Video of the Napoleon Route

This is a hyper lapse video of the stage from St Jean to Ronscasvalles. Don’t watch if you wish the hike to be a surprise!

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

Frequently Asked Questions

I could fill a post with the questions I am asked about this first stage but I’ve filtered it to just the most important. The main point I want you to take away from my post is that whilst this stage is challenging, it is entirely manageable if you prepare.

Can beginners Really walk From St Jean to roncesvalles?

Yes, but with preparation, realistic pacing, and by splitting the stage if needed. You can’t jump off the couch and walk this stage but if you prepare, train and have the appropriate shoes, clothing and equipment you can.

What if the Napoleon Route is closed?

Legally, the Napolean Route is the only trail in Europe that closes in winter. From 1 April to 31 October is it open but if the weather is bad, pilgrims are redirected to walk the Valcarlos route. This is the lower and safer route in bad weather.

Do not ignore the local advice. No matter how much you want to walk this route; take Valcarlos. It’s different but still glorious. And sometimes, if you have a bed in Borda or Orisson you can walk here and taxi to Valcarlos the following day to continue. Be guided by the local experts and follow their advice!

What time should I start walking?

If you’re walking the entire stage, leave at first light. I really do not like walking in the dark and it isn’t necessary. And you’ll miss the views and potentially miss an arrow!

If you are stopping at Borda or Orisson you can linger over breakfast; Borda doesn’t open until 2:30pm so there is no need to rush.

Is this the hardest day on the Camino?

I’m not sure. It is certainly one of them! However, for many pilgrims it is hard, not just because of the elevation and distance but because many folks are tired from travel. Some will have jetlag and most will be anxious.

I cannot put into words the feeling when you take your first steps. I waved goodbye to Gerry and sobbed for the first five minutes on the trail. It’s an incredibly emotional experience!

So How Hard is Day 1 from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

I can’t stress enough that you need to train and be prepared to walk over the mountains. While the trail itself is well-marked and easy to follow and not a technically difficult path, you are still walking through the Pyrenees, and that demands respect.

Yes, Day 1 is a challenge. But looking back, I realise that fear of the unknown made it seem even harder. Before my first Camino, the more I read, the more anxious I became. Two weeks before leaving home, I panicked and cancelled my bed at Orisson, deciding to start from Roncesvalles instead. I deeply regretted that decision.

Since that first Camino, I’ve walked over these mountains many times and led countless nervous pilgrims from St. Jean to Roncesvalles. And every time, it has been glorious. The views are breathtaking, the sense of achievement is unmatched, and for me, it remains one of the most memorable days of hiking.

If time allows, break the stage and stay overnight at Orisson or Borda. Also, reserve your bed at Roncesvalles so that you can walk without stress, fully enjoying the experience. With your bed booked and your bag forwarded, you can simply relax and take in the beauty of the mountains.

The landscape changes as you climb, from the gentle foothills of St. Jean to sweeping mountain views. And as you reach the highest points, the scenery becomes even more breathtaking. By the time you arrive in Roncesvalles, the sense of accomplishment will stay with you for weeks and carry you to Santiago de Compostela.

Don’t skip this stage! But equally, come prepared. Your feet and knees will thank you—and this day will be one you remember forever.

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.