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Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias: Step By Step Guide To Stage 27 Of The Camino Frances

Created by Colleen | Updated : 20 December 2024 | ,

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Stage 26 : Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo
Stage 28 : Las Herrerias to Fonfria

Today is the last day before the climb to O Cebreiro and I remember this stage so well. The Camino Frances from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias is another glorious walk and I’m already looking forward to my next visit to the region.

Over the following few days though,my stages differ from the normal Camino stages. Of course, there are many ways to divide this journey but this is how I love to walk them. Thankfully, there are accommodation options along the trail, including a few of my favourite albergue on the entire Camino Frances!

Tomorrow, we face the queen stage of the French Way with the challenging ascent to O Cebreiro. But today, we can enjoy gentle paths, green valleys, pretty stone-built villages and even a few riversides where tired pilgrims can soak their feet. It’s a good day.

grumpy looking cat in the pilgrim albergue before La Herrerias (he was actually very friendly)

Walking the Camino Frances from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias

The stage from Villafranca del Bierzo is a comfortable 20 kilometres, with opportunities for pauses along the way. If you’re seeking a challenge, consider the scenic alternative that climbs up into the hills, away from the main road as you leave Villafranca. Alternatively, follow the River Valcarce as it meanders through the valley to Las Herrerias.

Whilst we still may be in the province of Leon, the houses are beginning to take on a more Galician style. The vineyards have disappeared, replaced by sheep and plenty of grazing cows. The valley feels like a world away from anywhere, but in medieval times it was a dangerous place for pilgrims.  Thankfully, the days of bandits and thieves are long gone and modern pilgrims face just a few practical challenges.

The Camino is well-marked and the terrain is relatively flat and chestnut and oak trees provide shade along the route. This is a day to savour. You may be eager to reach Santiago de Compostela, but trust me; your Camino days will pass quickly enough so make the most of the beauty we have today.

  • Villafranca del Bierzo and Las Herrerias Distance : 20.3 km
  • Villafranca del Bierzo and Las Herrerias: Elevation gain : 389 m | Elevation loss : 206 m   
map of the Camino Frances route from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias
Camino from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias is in orange, the variant is shown here in blue
elevation profile of the Camino Frances route from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias

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Towns and Villages Between Villafranca del Bierzo and Las Herrerias

Much like yesterday’s walk from Ponferrada, this stage offers plenty of villages but not all will have services. Villafranca del Bierzo is the last significant town before Sarria, so if you need supplies, now’s the time to stock up. ATMs, supermarkets, and pharmacies are few and far between over the next few days.

Villafranca del Bierzo

Villafranca del Bierzo, often called the Gateway to Galicia, is a wonderful town with a considerable history. Its cobbled streets, medieval architecture and busy Plaza Major makes for a great stop along the Camino Frances.

Remember that Villafranca has everything you’ll need for last-minute supplies; the next large town is Sarria a few days walk away.  And if you’re looking for breakfast, there are a few small cafes around the Plaza Mayor and along the route as you leave town.  

Follow the arrows and cross the ancient Puente Medieval over the Rio Valcarce. From here you’ll quickly find yourself walking in the valley alongside the road and river and the hills begin to rise on either side.

looking back down on Villafranca del Bierzo in the early morning

The Variant To Pradela

Immediately after crossing the bridge, you’ll face a choice; continue along the main Camino and follow the Río Valcarce through Pereje and Trabadelo. Or take the Pradela Variant, which takes you off the road and up into the hills above.

The variant adds just under 2 km to the total distance but it also does come with significant elevation changes:

  • Elevation Gain: Camino: 389 m | Variant: 599 m
  • Elevation Loss: Camino: 206 m | Variant: 410 m

The Pradela variant offers fabulous views over the valley and surrounding hills and if you’re craving quiet paths then this route maybe for you. But (there’s always a but).  If it’s been raining, the trail can become slippery, especially on the descent into Trabadelo.  And while the variant is marked, the way isn’t always as clear. 

Both paths have their appeal. If your legs are feeling strong and you’re up for a bit of adventure, the variant maybe a great choice.  If you’d prefer a flatter trail and the company of pilgrims then stick to the main route.

If you stick to the main Camino path, you’ll walk beside the old N-VI road. I first walked this section in October and I worried it might be dull but it was far from it; there’s always beauty to be found if you look for it.

The road was quiet, and only a dozen or so cars passed over a couple of hours. The path closely follows the river, winding through a pretty valley. Occasionally, you’ll walk beneath towering motorway bridges where traffic rumbles overhead like thunder.

The arrows lead off the road, into a tiny village, and I walked between chestnut and walnut trees, with blackberry brambles lining the trail. There may be no such thing as a free lunch; but I certainly enjoyed a free breakfast!

chestnut trees full of fruit lining the road on the Camino Frances

Pereje (5 km)

About an hour out of Villafranca del Bierzo, you’ll arrive at your first village. Pereje is a tiny hamlet but remarkably, in 1118 there was a Pilgrim Hospice here.  And even more remarkably, it continued to serve pilgrims until it closed in 1835.   

Apparently, there had been some legal dispute as to who owned the hospice and Pope Urban II had to decide!  He died in 1099 which suggests that there has been pilgrim shelter here for maybe a thousand years.

Pereje has a small café with a terrace, but I’ve read reviews that suggest it has closed. However, it’s still listed on the village’s website, so you might be lucky.  My advice is don’t count on it but if it’s open, enjoy your morning coffee!

old village house adorned in geraniums and pink flowers

Trabadelo (4.6 km)

Leaving Pereje, the trail follows the road again toward Trabadelo. The hills rise up on either side and you’ll get glimpses of the Río Valcarce below. Before too long the arrows lead you onto quieter lanes for the walk into Trabadelo; again lined by chestnut trees offering plenty of dappled shade.

Trabadelo can trace its origins back to Roman times and is also one of the few Galician speaking councils in Castilla y Leon. In the 9th Century the town was gifted to a noble family but it was in the Middle Ages that it gained prominence, serving as a vital stop for pilgrims journeying to Santiago.

If you walked the variant, you’ll rejoin the Camino here, about halfway through the village. If the shops seem closed, walk back to the large café-bar at the village entrance; it’s usually open.

There are a few bars and restaurants here, all on the trail so there’s no need to deviate.  And if you prefer walking shorter days or you’re seeking unique stays along the Camino, you may wish to consider spending the night at Casa Susi.

The albergue was create by Susi, an Australian pilgrim, and her Spanish husband, Fermin. They built Casa Susi out of their shared love for the Camino. You’ll find comfortable beds (not bunks), home-cooked meals with fresh ingredients grown in their garden.  Guests gather for dinner around a long communal table and share stories of their journey and it’s not uncommon for a guitar to appear after dinner!

sign on the wall of Casa Susi "the next chapter of your life is going to be amazing"

La Portela de Valcarce (4.3 km)

Leaving Trabadelo, the trail follows the path through the valley, back between the N-VI and the Río Valcarce.

You’ll soon reach La Portela de Valcarce, a village that seems to spread out along the road. There’s not a lot here but it could be a good place to take a short break, refill your water or grab a snack if needed.

Ambasmestas (1.1 km)

Just a short walk from La Portela is Ambasmestas, a tiny village where two rivers meet; hence its name which translates as mixing of waters.

The houses in this picturesque little village are often lined with pots of flowers and it’s another village that feels lost in time.  And for it’s small size there are still a few cafés and places to spend the night.  

  • Albergue Casa del Pescador: We stopped here once for a bowl of hot pumpkin soup and it was perfect after a chilly morning on the trail. They have a really friendly cat who looks grumpy but seemed to enjoy the company of pilgrims as much as the pilgrims enjoyed his.
  • Casa Cantadora: This is the perfect stop for those looking for a more spiritual experience. Casa Cantadora is highly rated for its meditation, excellent communal dinners and simple, welcoming atmosphere. Ideal for those seeking a retreat-like stay.
  • Hotel Ambasmestas: If you prefer a private room consider Hotel Ambasmestas. It’s a rural hotel with a bar and restaurant and offers both breakfast and dinner options. While not exclusively for pilgrims, it’s right on the Camino and could be the perfect stage end for some.
Book Hotel Ambasmestas
never far from the river Valcarce, a shady river bank with spring flowers

Vega de Valcarce (1.7 km)

These little mountain villages seem to pop up every couple of kilometres now.  In between you’ll follow the valley along a quiet road with the river never far away. And listen out for the sound of the cattle bells, you’ll hear them before you see the cows!

Vega de Valcarce is another pretty village nestled in the Valcarce Valley which has long served pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela.  It’s a slightly larger village than the others, with a range of services.

The village can trace it’s history dates back to at least the 10th century. On a hill above are the remnants of the Castillo de Sarracín, a medieval fortress which was possibly founded in the 9th century.  The ruins of the castle you see today were constructed between the 14th and 15th centuries.

On your way into the village, on the left there’s a very nice café/bakery.  It’s not gluten free but the coffee is very good and perfect if you’re looking for a pick-me up! And as well as the ancient Church of La Magdalena, you’ll also find a few cafes, a pilgrim hostel and a selection of small hotels.

  • Albergue El Paso is the most popular place to stay. They offer bunks and private rooms and there is a proper kitchen if you wish to cook.   They offer laundry too and there’s a great garden for hand washing and you’re close to the river.  It’s a pretty wonderful place to spend the night.
Book Albergue El Paso
sign in a bar showing the distance of villages from Vega to Santiago

Ruitelan (2.2 km)

Ruitelan is another tiny village tucked away in the Valcarce Valley.  According to local legend, San Froilan, a hermit-turned-saint, lived here in the mid-9th century before becoming Bishop of Leon. But today the village is a sleepy hamlet en route to Santiago.

If you’re looking for a quite pause then head to Cafe Bar Omega.  They offer excellent food and even a few gluten free options. 

And if you’re looking for a traditional albergue experience, the place to spend the night has to Albergue de Peregrinos Pequeno Potala.  It’s a simple but welcoming albergue and pilgrims speak fondly of the hosts kindness and the community meals.

ancient church in a village before Las Herrerias

Las Herrerias (1.4 km)

Las Herrerías is where I choose to break my stage from Villafranca del Bierzo. While many guides suggest walking on to O Cebreiro, I prefer to tackle that climb with fresh legs. Besides, this little village has some wonderful places to stay.

The story of Las Herrerías is woven into the history of the Valcarce Valley. Humans have lived and worked here for thousands of years and long before pilgrims walked the Camino de Santiago, the valley was home to prehistoric settlers.

  • Archaeological evidence from the surrounding area points to Neolithic communities (around 5000-2000 BCE) who built dolmens and menhirs; stone monuments thought to be used for rituals and burials.
  • By the Bronze Age (2000-800 BCE), early societies thrived, drawn by the valley’s rich natural resources; especially iron. The legacy of metalworking endured, eventually giving the village its name, Las Herrerias meaning Blacksmiths.
  • Celtic tribes later built fortified hilltop settlements and the Romans constructed roads, bridges, and military outposts. Two ancient Roman bridges near Las Herrerías still stand today, though they were reconstructed in the Middle Ages.

And before you pass through this village to find your bed, keep an eye on the river to your left.  On a hot day, there’s a perfect spot to soak your feet in the cool water; and trust me, your feet will love it!

pilgrims soaking their feet in the river

Where to Stay in Las Herrerias

Though Las Herrerias is only a small village, it offers a surprising range of accommodation, making it an ideal place to stop before tackling the climb to O Cebreiro.

I’ve stayed here many times, and while many options are great, I tend to return to the same place; simply because it works best for me.  Here are my three favourite places :

  • Casa Do Ferreiro – La Fragua : Located right on the main street as you pass through the village, this smaller guesthouse offer private rooms of various sizes. I’ve stayed here with my Camino group, and the owners are kind and welcoming, always making us feel at home.

    Their on-site restaurant serves home-cooked local meals; simple, hearty, and exactly what you need after a long day’s walk.

Top Tip: If you’re staying on the top floor, be prepared for lots of stairs and no lift, meaning you’ll need to carry your own luggage all the way up!

Book Casa Do Ferreiro – La Fragua
  • Paraiso del Bierzo : We stayed here on my first Camino, intending to walk on into the village, but it was raining and we managed to get a great deal on the rooms. Over the last decade, it’s changed a little from a Casa Rural to a more stylish country hotel.

    It’s a converted farmhouse and the rooms are modern, spacious and the radiators were on! Which allowed us to dry our wet clothes. The terrace views of the surrounding mountains are also wonderful.

Top Tip : It’s slightly outside the village, 500 metres or so before you reach Las Herrerias but if you’re looking for a comfortable, peaceful stay, this is a good option.

Book Paraiso del Bierzo
  • Casa Lixa Hotel Rural & Albergue :  This is my go-to whenever I’m in town. It offers a mix of accommodation from larger dormitory rooms with bunks to smaller family size rooms and twin ensuite rooms.  It’s on the Camino, with a busy bar, a great pilgrim menu in the evening. The rooms are clean, the showers are hot, and the staff always welcoming.

    I have very fond memories of an evening spent here with dear friends, laughing until we cried over famous comedy sketches. It’s amazing how humour transcends languages, and the our dorm mates were giggling well after lights-out.
Book Casa Lixa Hotel Rural & Albergue
horses in the main street in Las Herrerias

Potential Challenges Between Villafranca del Bierzo and Las Herrerias

I like to offer you a few tidbits of advice here even when there’s very little to trouble you. While this stage is fairly easy compared to others, there are still a few potential challenges to be aware of :

  • Rain and Weather Changes : The Valcarce Valley is nestled in the mountains, meaning the weather can change quickly. While it can be hot in the summer, you’re more likely to encounter a shower. Be sure to pack a waterproof along with your hat and sunscreen and always carry water!
  • Pavement and Hard Surfaces : Much of today’s walk is on paved paths and roads, which can be tough on your feet. Make sure you take regular breaks and take off your shoes and wiggle your toes; or soak them in the river!
  • Sloped Paths and Uneven Cambers : This one might seem unexpected, but if you’ve walked this path, or the path into Vigo on the Portuguese Camino, you’ll know what I mean. On the paved sections leaving Villafranca, the road’s camber slopes slightly from one side to other, which can cause discomfort.  Especially if you’re like me and have one leg slightly shorter than the other.

    If you notice the tilt causing irritation, shift sides along the path, find the place that feels most comfortable or use walking poles to keep your stride balanced. It’s not a huge problem but small adjustments will make a difference.
  • Road Crossings and Road Safety : You’ll be crossing the road several times today and walking along country roads connecting the villages. Traffic is light, but stay alert.  Remember to walk on the left side of the road (facing traffic) and avoid walking two abreast.
  • Pradela Variant : If you decide to take the Pradela Variant you’ll just need to be aware that the arrows are less frequent and not always clear, and that this route adds elevation with steep climbs and a bit of a steep descent into Trabadelo. If the weather is wet, the trail can be muddy and slippery, increasing the difficulty.
villafranca del bierzo at first light

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Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

  • Alertcops : A free app that connects you directly with the Spanish police. Hopefully, you’ll never need it but it offers peace of mind knowing assistance is just one click away.
  • What3Words : Another app you’ll hopefully never need but great for emergencies. It pinpoints your exact location down to a 3×3 metre square anywhere in the world. Free to download and invaluable if needed.
  • Wise Pilgrim : Not free, but for a few euros, this app is a treasure trove of Camino knowledge. I’ve used it for years, and the real-time map feature is perfect if you’re unsure which path to take.
  • Google Translate : A must-have for translating menus, signs, or conversations. Type, snap a photo (great for menus) or speak into it and it’ll translate for you. Download it in advance and ensure the Spanish language pack is installed for offline use.
  • Casa Ivar : I buy my credentials from Casa Ivar but he has everything a pilgrim needs and he will accept items forwarded in the post to Santiago. Ivar runs the international pilgrim forum and has lived in Santiago for many years.
  • John Brierley Guides : Considered the go-to guidebook for Camino pilgrims. Compact, regularly updated, and packed with useful details. It is Brierley’s recommended stages that are still widely followed today.
  • The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago by David Gitlitz: A rich resource for history lovers. I feel it’s a labour of love, with detailed history of the trail from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela. I have it on my Kindle App on my phone and refer to it often.
  • WhatsApp : Many albergue and pilgrim services communicate via WhatsApp. Download it before leaving home, as some phones may block new app installs overseas.
  • Airalo: Not an app but an eSIM provider. It’s easy to set up before leaving home, allowing you to connect to mobile data as soon as you arrive in Spain or France. Make sure your phone supports eSIMs but it really is a hassle-free alternative to finding a physical SIM card. We’ve used this now for a few years as we travel world-wide and it’s invaluable.
  • Revolut and Wise Bank Cards: While not apps, these are essential for travel. We have both Revolut and Wise cards, make paying for services and withdrawing foreign currency easy, with favourable exchange rates. Setting them up can take a bit of time, especially for American users, but they’re well worth it. We’ve used them across the globe and can’t recommend them enough.
Camino graffiti on a post before Trabadelo

Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias

Today is a meandering kind of day. The stage from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias offers a walk without any major challenges nor dramatic views, but it’s also free from difficult surprises. The trail is gentle, the path is steady, and the surroundings are quietly beautiful.

You walk through the historic Valcarce Valley and the hills rise up around.  There’s a definite sense of walking in nature today and the stone villages simply blend into one another as you walk.

Today’s a quiet day.  Today is a gift of calm.  Enjoy this day for reflection and appreciating the simple pleasures of the Camino. Take it slow, stop for coffee and talk to other pilgrims; and look after your feet!

The Camino is all about balance and whilst today is gentle, tomorrow you’ll face one of the most feared climbs of the Camino Frances and it’s going to be amazing!

bright spring fields and flowers in the valley before Las Herrerias

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.

Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Author : Colleen Sims

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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