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El Acebo de San Miguel to Ponferrada: Step By Step Guide To Stage 25 Of The Camino Frances

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If you’ve followed my previous stages, you’ll have spent the night in the glorious mountain village of El Acebo. From here, the trail continues down toward the historic Templar city of Ponferrada.

The trail through the mountains from Rabanal isn’t an easy one. For most pilgrims, breaking the stage in two allows time to navigate the rugged descent at a comfortable pace, soak in the stunning views, and experience the character of the little mountain villages along the way.

It’s a stage rich in history, dramatic landscapes, and not forgetting that satisfying sense of progress and achievement. And Ponferrada, with its imposing Templar Castle and old town, makes for a spectacular finish.

Walking the Camino Frances from El Acebo de San Miguel to Ponferrada

When I first walked this stage, I wasn’t a happy pilgrim. Descents have never been my favourite, especially since my fall on the Rota Vicentina, but this particular day felt especially tough.

The trail was muddy from recent rain, sticky in parts, and often with loose stones. In my journal, I nicknamed the descent into Molinaseca Two Hours of Horrible.  In fact, I disliked this section so much that it was several years before I walked it again.

And guess what? The second time, I loved it!

The trail was dry, and I suppose I was more experienced, but the real difference was my mindset; I wasn’t fearful. I knew I could manage the trail, I knew I could take my time. I stopped for coffee, chatted with pilgrims, used my trekking poles correctly, and took in the incredible views along the way.

Yes, the day begins with a steep descent from El Acebo, where trekking poles are invaluable but there are also shaded woodland tracks and you walk through a couple of little villages. And once you reach Molinaseca, the trail flattens for your walk into Ponferrada.

Towns and Villages Between El Acebo de San Miguel and Ponferrada

Today is a short stage and there’s not a lot by way of services but they are well spaced and there are more than enough opportunities for pauses and refreshments.  Having said that my usual advice is to have breakfast before you leave and also ensure you have enough water with you.

El Acebo de San Miguel

El Acebo is a pretty little village. The slate-roofed houses lining its main street feel as though they’ve been there for a thousand years; a striking contrast to the adobe-style homes you passed on the Meseta.

If you walked from Rabanal and stayed in one of the albergues or casa rurales in the village centre, consider having breakfast there before heading out. Alternatively, you’ll find something at the large, modern albergue near the village’s exit. Either way, be prepared: it’ll be at least an hour before you find more services.

Today is definitely a day to use trekking poles. If your knees are feeling the strain from carrying your pack, consider sending it ahead. Both Caminofacil and Jacotrans offer day-by-day pack transfer services; just remember to book by 8 p.m. the night before.

The route is well marked and there are plenty of arrows, so you’ll not lose your way; unlike one Italian pilgrim in 1743 who wrote that not even wild animals could have walked this trail!

Top Tip: Avoid leaving before first light. This trail demands your attention, and you’ll need good visibility to see where you place your feet along the uneven path.

Riego de Ambros (3.2 km)

This tiny hamlet, first mentioned in the late 12th century, is a welcome sight as you descend from El Acebo. Reaching Riego de Ambros means you’re already halfway down the steep section!

Much like El Acebo, the Camino Frances winds through narrow streets into the heart of the village. You’ll pass the Chapel of San Sebastián, a modest unassuming church, worth a look if it’s open.

There’s a small, no-frills albergue here: Albergue Municipal Riego de Ambros. It offers bunk beds, a basic kitchen with a microwave and a small garden. Breakfast and dinner are also available. Though simple, the albergue has many positive reviews and might be an option for tired legs.

Leaving Riego de Ambros, the path continues much as before; it’s still a little rocky, yet undeniably beautiful. On my last Camino, I walked down chatting with a really tall German chap who walked fast.  I clearly never felt the trail was too difficult and before I knew it, we were crossing the bridge into Molinaseca.

Top Tip: Some pilgrims are tempted to switch to the road to walk to Molinaseca.  I once walked with a friend who had fallen and was injured, and we moved onto the road hoping to flag down a car. The road walk felt far more dangerous, with speeding cars, and cyclists whizzing by. I wouldn’t recommend this option; it’s safer (and far more scenic) to stay on the Camino.

Molinaseca (4.8 km)

Everyone loves Molinaseca; or at least it feels that way. Whenever I guide groups through this stage, they always wish they’d had more time here. And it’s easy to see why; Molinaseca is a great spot to slow down and linger.

Molinaseca’s history stretches back to Roman times, thanks to its proximity to ancient gold mines at Las Medulas. However, it was during the Middle Ages that the town flourished, especially from the 12th century, when it became an important stop on the Camino de Santiago.

You enter Molinaseca over the Roman Bridge or Puente de los Peregrinos; though its current structure reflects medieval design, its foundations are likely Roman. Today, the river beneath is dammed and the bridge the area transformed into almost a natural swimming pool.

On warm days, it’s the perfect place to cool down, soak your feet, or even swim and at weekends it is a popular haunt of the locals from nearby Ponferrada.

As you cross the bridge, there’s a popular bar on the right; I’ve stopped many times and never been disappointed. But Molinaseca has a few other dining options, so feel free to explore beyond the riverfront.

I have never stayed in town; I’ve always continued on to Ponferrada but I have some personal recommendations from trusted friends on where to find the best beds.

Campo (4.5 km)

As you leave the old town of Molinaseca, stay on the left-hand pavement and follow it alongside the LE-142 for a couple of kilometres. Before long, you’ll reach a variant, offering a quieter alternative through the small village of Campo.

Taking the variant doesn’t add much distance; certainly less that a kilometre and it does get you off the main road. While the LE-142 isn’t particularly busy, the Campo route is far more peaceful and has less traffic, making for a more relaxed walk.

I also find the approach into Ponferrada much nicer along this route. You avoid passing through the small industrial areas, and you’ll arrive opposite the Castillo de los Templarios; a far more impressive entrance.

In truth, there’s not a huge difference between the two; neither is awful and neither is truly outstanding. On balance, I’d choose Campo for its quieter paths and more scenic arrival.

Ponferrada (3.8 km)

Ponferrada, the capital of the Bierzo wine region, is a bustling town with all the services and lots of accommodations choices. And wow, it has a lot of history too!

I first visited Ponferrada as a tourist, long before walking the Camino Frances. Its magnificent Templar Castle is amazing but the history of the town is much older.

Archaeological evidence suggests that Ponferrada began as a Celtic castro, a fortified settlement around 800 BCE.  By the 1st Century BCE the Romans had arrived, transforming the region, thanks to the vast gold reserves at Las Medulas, one of the largest open-pit gold mine of the Roman Empire.

The town was destroyed by the Visigoths and later by the Moors but after the Christian Reconquest in 928 AD, Ponferrada began to rise again. In 1082, an iron-reinforced bridge was built, giving the town its name and by 1178, King Ferdinand II of Leon entrusted Ponferrada to the Knights Templar.

They built the impressive Castillo de los Templarios, but their time was short-lived. In 1312, the Templars were disbanded, and the castle passed to various noble families.

If you’re travelling slowly along the Camino, you might consider taking a rest day here and even visiting the Las Medulas Gold Mines; now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  But if not, I’d still recommend an hour visiting the incredible Castillo de los Templarios.

Top Tip : Most displays are in Spanish, so having a Google Translate app handy will be helpful and sadly the castle is closed on Mondays!

Where to Stay in Ponferrada

Ponferrada has a wide range of accommodation options, and I’ve stayed in both hotels and pilgrim albergues, and would recommend a few from personal experience.

Since Ponferrada is a fairly large town, I would suggest booking somewhere close to the Camino route, and with easy walking distance of the Castle and main Plaza in the Old Town

Potential Challenges Between El Acebo de San Miguel and Ponferrada

Much like yesterday’s walk from Rabanal to El Acebo, today’s biggest challenge is the steep descent down to Molinaseca. My advice from before still applies :

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between El Acebo de San Miguel and Ponferrada

Don’t make the same mistake that I did on my first walk through this stage from Rabanal; I feared the downhill and convinced myself that it would be difficult before I even started.

In reality, while there are challenges, this is also a beautiful section, with stunning views, a few wonderful stops, and the reward of finishing in fabulous Ponferrada.

You can of course choose to walk from Rabanal to El Acebo and onwards for a longer day, but I’d have to ask why? This stretch through the Bierzo mountains should be enjoyed, not rushed. From Rabanal to Ponferrada, you’ll pass through some of the Camino’s most stunning mountain landscapes with both challenges and rewards along the way.  So why rush?

Take your time. Relax. Soak up the beauty and history without unnecessary fears of the terrain. Use trekking poles, send your bag ahead if that makes your day easier and allow plenty of time to simply enjoy the journey.

Looking back, I know I was wrong; it’s not two hours of horrible but rather a glorious walk along this most of iconic trails. And when you arrive don’t forget to visit the Templar castle and the Bierzo wine is pretty good too!

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.