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Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo: Step By Step Guide To Stage 26 Of The Camino Frances

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When I first walked this stage, leaving Ponferrada felt like entering a new chapter. With fewer than 200 kilometres left to Santiago, we had already walked over 600 from France!

Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo is another wonderful day on the Camino. You’ll wander through vineyards, ancient stone towns, and a few sleepy hamlets. The rolling hills hint at the climb to O Cebreiro, but today’s walk is gentle.

As you approach Villafranca, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in Tuscany. And I’m pretty sure there’s a white house on a hill that will find its way into your photo album.

Take your time today. Book your bed and enjoy the walk, safe in the knowledge that you can take all day if you wish.  

Walking the Camino Frances from Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

This stage of the Camino Frances leads through the fertile Bierzo region, famous for its vineyards. From Ponferrada’s historic centre and urban outskirts, we soon head into a more rural landscape.

The route is a mix of pavements, gravel tracks, and quiet country roads. We’ll walk through a string of hamlets that sometimes seem to roll into one another. There are less challenges today, and the steep descents from Rabanal are behind us. This stage is manageable, with only gentle hills and plenty of opportunities to rest.

The final stretch into Villafranca del Bierzo offers stunning views of the surrounding valley but can feel long, especially on a hot day. I learned the hard way when I underestimated how much water I needed the last time I walked. Oh my, I was relieved to reach Villafranca, find some shade, and enjoy a cool drink at the first bar I could find!

Towns and Villages Between Ponferrada and Villafranca del Bierzo

On paper, there seem to be plenty of villages today, but don’t assume all will offer services. If you’re looking for breakfast, stop at the first place you find, and if you feel like a coffee, do the same. As the day goes on, especially after Cacabelos, I’ve found services more limited, so don’t be like me! Make sure to carry enough water to see you through!

Ponferrada

Ponferrada takes its name from the iron bridge over the River Sil. As we leave town, we’ll first cross the river and then walk alongside it through the Parque de la Concordia.

You might think finding breakfast in Ponferrada would be easy, but the last time we walked, it was the day after a festival, and almost everything was closed! If your accommodation doesn’t offer breakfast, ask them where you might find your first cup of coffee.

Compostilla (3.2 km)

The boundary between Ponferrada and Compostilla isn’t obvious; it feels more like a residential suburb than a distinct town or village. It’s a nice area through, with a few grand houses but , services are limited.

Historically, little is known about Compostilla. The town’s name is thought to come from the Latin compositum, meaning well-arranged or constructed, possibly suggesting an early settlement site.

Records show that by the 12th century, the Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Refugio was built here. While the current structure underwent significant restoration in the 20th century, it retains much of its original design. The restored building is not a replica but rather a preserved version of the original hermitage.

Some guides mention Bar El Compostilla near the entrance to town. I’ve never been lucky enough to find it open, but in May 2024, someone left a glowing review of a great breakfast so perhaps you’ll have better luck!

Columbrianos (1.8 km)

A short walk from Compostilla brings you to Columbrianos. While it still feels somewhat like the outskirts of Ponferrada, you’ll find services here; and most importantly, coffee!

Incredibly, despite its modern and functional appearance, Columbrianos is one of the oldest settlements in the region. Its origins trace back to the Castro culture (around 800 BC – 1st century AD), a pre-Roman civilization known for building fortified hilltop settlements.

When the Romans expanded into the Iberian Peninsula, they likely absorbed this area too but with their decline, Columbrianos evolved back into a rural community. Medieval remnants like hermitages and the Parish Church of San Esteban suggest it also served as a resting point for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

Fuentes Nuevas (2.7 km)

From Columbrianos, it’s a short walk along a quiet country road to Fuentes Nuevas, another small town with medieval roots. You’ll walk beside mostly wheat fields and scattered houses, but it’s a peaceful rural setting. Do stay alert though; it’s still a road with occasional local traffic.

The Camino skirts around the main part of town, but there’s a bar/cafe on the trail as you enter. Opposite is a tiny chapel, and if it’s open, it has a lovely Sello.

Continuing through the town, you’ll spot several interesting old buildings and another great cafe, before heading back into open countryside. And from here you’ll notice a distinct change in the landscape with more and more vineyards; we’re entering the heart of the Bierzo wine-growing region.

Camponaraya (2.6 km)

A few kilometres further on, you’ll reach Camponaraya, another small town with medieval roots. In the 12th century, there were two pilgrim hospices here, and that tradition continues today with several good albergues and Casa Rurals.

You’ll also find all essential services here as you pass through the town centre, including shops, pharmacies, and cafés.

One of the more popular options is Albergue la Medina de Camponaraya, offering dormitory bunks (although the top ones do feel quite high). The albergue is clean, comfortable, and has a bar, restaurant, and a spacious garden; everything you’d need for a comfortable stay. Private rooms are also available if you’re after a bit more privacy.

Top Tip: If you’re planning to stay overnight, check ahead to see if food will be available. Many places stop serving once the pilgrim traffic slows down. If that’s the case, visit the local supermarket for supplies.

Leaving Camponaraya, there’s no doubt that we’re in wine country. You’ll head uphill, cross a motorway bridge, and join a trail that you’ll follow for the next 5 kilometres.

A few years ago, my Camino almost came to an untimely end on that bridge after tripping on uneven pavement. Thankfully, quick reflexes and a walking pole kept me on my feet. But it’s a timely reminder that uneven surfaces are a challenge when walking through towns and villages.

Fortunately, once you’re past the bridge, the trail is much kinder underfoot, and the views are amazing.

Cacabelos (5.4 km from Camponaraya)

Cacabelos, like many towns along today’s stage, has a history stretching back thousands of years. Evidence of Celtic settlements and the nearby Bergidum Flavium, a Roman administrative centre mentioned by Ptolemy, highlight these roots.

From the 5th to the 8th century, the town saw successive waves of Suebi, Visigoths, and Moors before first appearing as Cacabelos in historical records in the 10th century. After being destroyed by an earthquake, Archbishop Diego Gelmírez of Santiago de Compostela rebuilt the town in 1108.

Medieval pilgrimage brought prosperity, though as the Camino’s popularity waned, the town’s economy became more focused on agriculture. Cacabelos also played a role in the Peninsular War when, on January 3, 1809, British and French forces clashed here during the Battle of Cacabelos, resulting in the death of French General Colbert-Chabanais.

Today, Cacabelos is renowned for its wine production, particularly within the El Bierzo appellation, and continues its tradition of welcoming pilgrims along the Camino de Santiago. And if you’d like to spend the night, there are many excellent options, including :

Cacabelos has all essential services, including ATMs, supermarkets, pharmacies, and even an ice-cream shop on the Camino. It’s a great place to stop for a late lunch or to stock up on water; the remaining stretch into Villafranca is exposed, and on a hot day, you’ll be glad you did!

Pieros (1.7 km)

Pieros is a tiny village that feels more like the outskirts of Cacabelos, as you follow the pavement out of town along the main road. As you walk you’ll spot a road sign marking Santiago 220 km; not quite accurate for walkers, it’s still a nice reminder of the distance.

We stay on the pavement beside the LE-713 and stay on the right hand side of the road too.  About 500m after Pieros there’s a junction, with yellow arrows on the tarmac.  And this is important. 

When I first walked we simply followed the road before turning off into Villafranca. On later Caminos, I walked both routes, but the last time I walked the roadside route, it felt far too busy with traffic, and I wouldn’t take it again.

At this junction, follow the signs for Valtuille de Arriba, turn right off the main road and don’t keep  walking straight. The views along this quieter path are still beautiful, but it’s much safer and therefore a more pleasant walk. And both routes merge before Villafranca.

Valtuille de Arriba (2.4 km)

There’s not much in Valtuille de Arriba, and the Camino leads you in and pretty much out again, without really seeing much.  But if you enjoy staying in small, family-run albergue, that are off the main stages, then there’s a hidden gem here that’s worth considering.

Albergue La Biznaga has only 6 beds but offers so much heart that many pilgrims say it feels like staying with family. It’s open year-round, though in the quiet season they ask you to get in touch to check they are open.

Beyond the village, follow the arrows onwards toward Villafranca del Bierzo. The next few kilometres are absolutely stunning. The trail is easy, and the views are spectacular. Keep an eye out for Cantarina Vinos de Familia, a striking white building nestled among trees and acres and acres of vineyards; it’s a truly glorious sight and my guess is you’ll want to take a photo.

Villafranca del Bierzo (4.8 km)

Villafranca del Bierzo marks the end of today’s stage and it’s a fabulous little town.

You’ll approach from a hill, descending down into the town, past the Iglesia de Santiago, founded in 1186. Its north portal, known as the Puerta del Perdón, held deep significance for medieval pilgrims. Those too ill to continue could enter here, receive communion, and have their sins forgiven; just as if they had reached the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

But the town’s history goes back much further. The area’s strategic location at the confluence of two rivers and the entrance to the valley leading toward the O Cebreiro pass made it ideal for early settlements, including Bronze Age castros (fortified villages).

Historical records from 943 AD refer to the town as Foreigners’ Town (Villa Franca), a hub for merchants and passing trade. However, it was the rise of pilgrimage that truly fuelled Villafranca’s growth.

Despite its prosperity, Villafranca suffered some terrible setbacks:

Yet Villafranca was rebuilt, and while it may never have regained its medieval glory, today it remains a popular stop on the Camino Frances, offering pilgrims a range of accommodation from albergue to the luxurious Parador de Villafranca del Bierzo.

Where to Stay in Villafranca del Bierzo

Villafranca del Bierzo has accommodation options for all budgets, from the municipal albergue to luxury hotels. I’ve stayed in the town many times and theres are a few that I can personally recommended :

Potential Challenges Between Ponferrada and Villafranca del Bierzo

Are there challenges today? I guess there are always a few things to be aware of, but overall, today is a great walking day.

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Ponferrada and Villafranca del Bierzo

I have many fond memories of today’s stage. The first time I walked it I knew little of the area’s history, but the more I’ve learned, the more fascinated I’ve become by this glorious region.

The landscape today is undeniably beautiful; so different from the vineyards of La Rioja we walked between Najera and Santo Domingo. The mountains framing the valley create a picture-perfect backdrop, hinting at the rugged terrain yet to come in the next few days.

With several towns and villages along the route, there are plenty of places to rest and share stories with fellow pilgrims. There are few real challenges today, making this stage feel like a perfect Camino day.  And a prelude to the mountains ahead and beautiful Galicia.

Santiago really isn’t that far now!

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.