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Estella To Los Arcos : Step By Step Guide To Stage 6 Of The Camino Frances
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The first time I walked the Camino Frances, leaving Estella felt like a major milestone. After dealing with blisters, it was a relief to be back on the trail. To ease in my new shoes, I chose to split this stage into two shorter days, first walking to Monjardín and then on to Los Arcos. My feet felt good (no more blisters) and I was so happy to be back in the company of pilgrims.
The stage from Estella to Los Arcos, does come with a few challenges; mainly with accommodation choices. While there are several albergues and a few basic hotels along the way, I’ve yet to find one that really stands out. I’ve stayed in Monjardín and even walked on to Sansol and Torres del Río, each offering great options but each with their own drawbacks. Read on, and I’ll share what I’ve learned.
Accommodation aside, today’s walk is truly stunning. The views are magnificent, and we’re officially in wine country! In 2024, we also discovered two fantastic refreshment stops, making this one of our most joyful days on the Camino.
Walking The Camino Frances From Estella To Los Arcos
After the steep hills of recent days, today’s elevation feels more forgiving and the distance makes for a relatively easier day; and of course, only fellow pilgrims will understand the term relatively easy!
The landscape is big, with rolling vineyards, gentle hills, a sea of wheat, and of course the famous wine fountain. You’ll pass vineyards that have grown grapes for centuries, follow quiet paths, and fall in love with a landscape that has cared for pilgrims for over a thousand years.
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Towns And Villages Between Estella And Los Arcos
Today’s stage has a few stops, and they’re well-spaced, offering the perfect chance for a pause. Although, be sure to have breakfast in Estella before setting off; there are a few cafés and shops as you leave town if you wish to stock up.
Estella
If you stayed in Estella’s old town, you’ll start your day by leaving through one of the long, straight roads that lead into the modern part of town. Estella is a fairly sizeable town, so expect morning traffic and busy streets. Stick with the yellow arrows, as you’ll need to cross the roads a few times and the route is well marked.
The trail takes you along the N111 for a short stretch before taking you through a residential area, and eventually up and out toward Ayegui on the edge of town.
Top Tip: Be sure to follow the arrows and cross the road where directed; it is well marked. The traffic can be busy, and sticking to the designated paths makes life easier and safer for everyone on the road.
Ayegui (1.6 km)
Ayegui feels almost like a suburb of Estella, and it’s a convenient stop. At the top of Calle San Pelayo, you’ll find toilets, and just before you leave for open countryside, there’s an excellent little shop-café. Here, you can grab breakfast, coffee, or snacks, making it an ideal spot to refill your supplies.
From here, you’ll cross the busy N111 one last time before heading into the rural splendour; and, of course, the wine fountain!
The Wine Fountain of Irache
The famous wine fountain is situated between Ayegui and Irache, about 2 km from Estella. While the fountain is undoubtedly the main attraction, consider stopping just before it at La Forja De Ayegui, a charming blacksmith gallery full of handcrafted treasures. The shop also has a beautiful Sello (stamp) for your credential if you make a purchase.
A few metres further on, you’ll reach the wine fountain, with one tap for wine and another for water; pilgrims are welcome to drink from either. While the wine may not be Spain’s finest, it’s free and part of a unique, historical and much-loved Camino tradition
Monastery of Irache
Just beyond the fountain, you’ll find the ancient Monastery of Irache, or Santa María la Real de Irache. This historic Benedictine monastery traces its origins back to the 8th century, with records dating as far back as 958. Over the centuries, it has served as a pilgrims’ hospital, a university, a military hospital, and a religious college but closed in 1985 due to declining monastic vocations.
In 2007, there were ambitious plans to transform the building into a Parador, but economic challenges have halted the project. When we passed by in 2024, the building remained locked, with no visible signs of construction.
In 1991, the adjacent Bodegas Irache winery installed the wine fountain as a tribute to the monastery’s tradition of offering wine to pilgrims; a gesture of hospitality that has become so much a part of the Camino Frances.
Top Tip: Please don’t be the person who fills their water bottle with wine! The fountain symbolises community and sharing, so enjoy in moderation and respect the spirit of the tradition.
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Urbanización Irache (2.6 km)
Leaving the wine fountain and monastery behind, you’ll soon arrive at Urbanización Irache, a quiet residential area with a campsite, Camping Iratxe. The campsite offers refreshments and potential accommodation, making it a convenient stop if you wish to break the stage (although there’s not a lot in the area so you may prefer to walk on a few kilometres).
Top Tip: There is a route variation here. The higher route leads up into the woods above Irache; it’s a bit shorter but involves more elevation. Alternatively, you can take the lower
Azqueta (3.3 km)
The walk into Ázqueta is stunning, with fields and forests and huge views that open up around you. I find myself pausing to look back and snap more photos; it’s a view that I’ll never tire of seeing!
As you approach Ázqueta, there’s a short uphill stretch into the village, where you’ll find an option to stay overnight if you’re looking to split the stage. There’s also a small bar in town, though it has been rather hit-and-miss over the years in terms of availability. Indeed back in 2019, I sold my Pacer Poles to a passing pilgrim and since replaced them with collapsible Black Diamonds. But on many visits it was often closed.
This year, however, not only was it open, the bar has been transformed into Cafe L’Antorcha, a glorious little pilgrim spot now owned by Rene, a former pilgrim who fell in love with the Camino and decided to open a café here. With a jukebox, excellent coffee, and a warm, welcoming atmosphere, L’Antorcha is the perfect place to pause. We all stayed for two coffees and I’d recommend you stop and support a fellow pilgrim, and soak up the beautiful spirit on offer!
For those wanting to spend the night, La Perla Negra is a traditional albergue which also offers a couple of private rooms. It’s highly rated among pilgrims, who rave about the evening meals and the warm, friendly atmosphere.
Villamayor de Monjardín (1.8 km)
Leaving Lorca yesterday, if you looked to the horizon you will have spotted a strikingly pointed hill, you were looking at the hill near Villamayor de Monjardín. And leaving Rene’s café, we’re now heading towards this picturesque little village nestled at the foot of that unique peak.
This historic village is home to the remnants of San Esteban Castle. While the base of the castle is believed to be Roman, the structure we see today dates back to the 9th century. The castle, once a strategic lookout, holds stories of battles and triumphs involving Moors, kings, and even Charlemagne. It also offers spectacular views of the surrounding region. Two of my group hiked the extra 5 kilometres up and back to take in those views as a birthday treat; and they both agreed it was well worth the effort!
If you haven’t had a refreshment stop yet, there’s a bar and café here, take a right and climb the steps into the centre. There’s also a small shop where you can stock up on supplies. And be sure to fill up on water here, as there are no more services until Los Arcos.
Villamayor de Monjardín has two traditional albergues, offering a great place to pause if you want to stay off the main stages. While you can’t book online, both provide warm hospitality and a comfortable stay:
Leaving Los Arcos you have more than 12 kilometres of rural splendour. I love this section. I love the views that are seemingly endless. I’ve walked in early spring and summer and late autumn and regardless of the weather it’s beautiful.
If you’re lucky, you might encounter a food truck along the way; each year brings a new truck but this year, we found The Pilgrim’s Oasis Food Truck. It’s a wonderful stop, lots of choices for food and drinks with incredibly kind hosts. They told us about their café in Viana, The Pilgrim Oasis, which as also visited for more fabulous hospitality.
Keep your fingers crossed that the food truck is there; you’re in for a treat! And after, it’s time to continue through this incredible valley until you reach Los Arcos.
Los Arcos (12.4 km)
The last kilometre into Los Arcos always feels long. Even though today’s stage is relatively straightforward, I’m always relieved to see the town come into view.
Like Monjardín, Los Arcos has witnessed its share of battles over the centuries. Today, however, it’s better known for its connection to the Camino, its charming plazas, and the stunning Church of Santa María. This Baroque chuch features an ornate golden altar and a beautiful cloister; it’s not always open but jump in if you have the chance.
I really want to love Los Arcos. It’s a pretty little town with two great plazas, a handful of lovely albergue, and a municipal option. There’s a small hotel and restaurants and bars around both plazas.
And yet, if I’m honest, I’ve often felt that pilgrims aren’t entirely welcome. It feels as though we’re tolerated rather than warmly received. Perhaps I’ve just been unlucky, but when I mentioned this to a resident of Viana, he laughed and said, “It’s just Los Arcos.”
That being said, there are a few lovely albergues if you’re looking for a bunk bed. I’ve stayed in four of them over the years, and each has offered a comfortable rest after a day on the trail.
Where To Stay In Los Arcos
Los Arcos has a lot going for and it’s a good place to end your stage. It offers a range of pilgrim-friendly accommodations, from simple albergues to family-run hotels. The town’s municipal albergue provides the basics; a bunk bed, showers, and a communal kitchen and it’s just a few hundred metres from the church.
I’ve stayed at both the municipal albergue and the Austrian-run Casa de Austria, each offering a more traditional experience. My groups have also stayed at Casa de la Abuela and Apartamentos Jurramendi. Both are popular choices, though I’ve noticed that Jurramendi now requires a three-day minimum stay, suggesting they may be moving away from nightly pilgrim bookings.
There’s also a small hotel in town that I’m planning to try with my group in 2025; stay tuned for a review!
Los Arcos should be a great place to stay. The main plaza fills with pilgrims, creating a lively atmosphere, and the church is beautiful.
However, if you’re up for a few more kilometres, you can continue to Sansol or Torres del Río (usually part of the walk from Los Arcos to Logrono). Both offer accommodation and the path is relatively flat and not too arduous, making it a possible extension even after a full day’s walk.
Potential Problems Between Estella And Los Arcos
This stage is generally straightforward, but there are a few things to keep in mind:
And as always, please be mindful of your impact on the trail and take your rubbish with you and leave no trace. If you need to make an emergency stop, carry a small bag to take out tissues.
My Final Thoughts On Camino Frances Between Estella And Los Arcos
Another beautiful day on the Camino. Different from previous days, you can really start to see the landscape shift as you leave the mountains and head toward Logroño.
Whilst this area is steeped in history, for me, today is all about the views. And, a few memorable stops; the free wine fountain, the blacksmith’s gallery, Rene’s café, and the Pilgrim Oasis all add to the unique charm of this day.
By now, it’s Day 6 or 7 for many pilgrims, and I remember feeling like I truly belonged on the trail at this point. My initial fears of the mountains had faded, and the pain of my blisters, a distant memory. My pack felt comfortable on my back, familiar faces began appearing along the way, and with each step, my confidence was growing.
Take your time today. While finding beds can be a worry, consider booking ahead, even if it’s just by a day. Enjoy the stops, soak up the views, dance a little, and embrace the spirit of the Camino. These are the moments that will stay with you long after you’ve finished the journey.
Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.
Are You Walking The Camino Frances?
I’ve walked this glorious trail eight times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily guides for each stage of the journey that you may find useful.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance. None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.
I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.
TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.
Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.
Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.
Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.
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Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!