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Castrojeriz To Fromista: Step By Step Guide To Stage 15 Of The Camino Frances

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On my first Camino, I dreaded this stage. Stage 15 from Castrojeriz To Frómista begins with a steep climb up Alto de Mostelares. In 2014, my guidebook marked the hill as difficult; the first such warning since the Pyrenees.

Today we continue deeper into the Meseta, walking through villages that feel like they’ve stepped back in time. This is a day of contrasts: a steep ascent, vast open plains and another significant milestone, you’ll have walked through Castillla Y Leon and enter Palencia; the heart of the Meseta.

And that hill?  I was stronger than I realised. The hill wasn’t as bad as I’d feared.

Walking the Camino Frances from Castrojeriz to Fromista

Today is glorious. The change in landscape, the views from the top of Alto de Mostelares, and after the climb, the sweeping panorama of the Meseta stretching endlessly into the horizon.

Hill aside, the trails are mostly flat, well-marked, and easy underfoot. However, this stage does come with a challenge; a long stretch without services.

After leaving Castrojeriz, it will be 11 kilometres before you reach the first village. There are shaded picnic benches along the way and, if you’re lucky, a food truck at the top of the hill offering refreshments.

Towns and Villages Between Castrojeriz and Fromista

The views today are iconic, just as with the walk into Hornillos, you will have probably already seen a few photos of these landscapes. Whilst the views are majestic, the services are limited but we do walk into Palencia, which is another great milestone.

Castrojeriz

The surrounding landscape is mostly flat, with a few exceptions: the fortress crowning Castrojeriz and the Alto de Mostelares; today’s hill.

Castrojeriz is a linear town, almost wrapped around the hill, so you’ll begin your day walking along Calle Real, eventually leaving the historic streets and heading into the open countryside. The town itself has a rich history with pilgrimage and the Camino de Santiago, and along the way you’ll find plenty of accommodation as well as a few small shops.

Top Tip : More shops can be found in the lower part of town too.

If your accommodation offers breakfast, I’d highly recommend saying yes! And fill up with water and take a snack before leaving; the next 11 kilometres are remote, with little by way of services.

The arrows leading out of town are plentiful, but if you leave at dawn, the low light can make them harder to spot. Thankfully, you’ll maybe see a line of headtorches winding their way up the hill, which gives a good clue as to where the trail is heading.

I try to resist the temptation of leaving before first light. I don’t like walking in the dark and the walk out of town is glorious.  The views are incredible as you walk up and watching the sun rise and catching the morning sky changing from grey to apricot is one of my favourite things!

Alto de Mostelares (3.6 km)

I really worried about this hill the first time I walked. While it’s steep and short, it’s really not as daunting as it first appears. You’ll gain around 150 metres in elevation over less than 2 kilometres, which sounds bad but is entirely manageable.

Top Tip: When I first tackled this hill, I thought the best approach was to charge straight up. Since then, I’ve learned that a slow and steady rhythm is key. Shorten your stride, drop your pace, and focus on your breathing.

At the top, there’s a small shelter and, if you’re lucky, a food truck. But there are no other services so plan accordingly.

From the top, you cross the short plateau and you’re rewarded with one of the most iconic views on the Camino. Equal to those from Col de Lepoeder before Roncesvalles and Alto del Perdón after Pamplona. Stretching out in front of you is the vast expanse of the Meseta, with its endless patchwork of wheat, barley, and sunflower fields.

Don’t rush; this is one of my favourite places. I usually find a rock to sit and just take it all in.  And what goes up must go down and the descent is equally steep, so take care.

Top Tip: The descent path is solid and very well-maintained, but it’s still steep. Lengthen your hiking poles and bend your knees slightly to ease the strain. If it feels too steep, walking in a zigzag pattern can help reduce the pressure on your knees. And avoid leaning too far forward as this affects your balance.

Ermita de San Nicolás de Puente Fitero (5.6 km)

After descending the Alto de Mostelares and walking through the valley that wow-ed you from the top, the trail winds onward until you arrive at the tiny Ermita de San Nicolás. This is now an albergue, and if it’s open and you get the chance to stay here, consider yourself a very lucky pilgrim!

Even if you don’t stay overnight, it’s worth stopping to look inside. On one of my visits, I received both a sello (stamp) and a sweet treat from the friendly volunteers.

The albergue is run by the Confraternita di San Jacopo di Compostella, an association from Perugia, Italy. The building itself, believed to date back to the 12th or 13th century, has been restored and was once owned by the Order of the Knights of Saint John of Malta.

Like San Bol and San Antón, this albergue offers a traditional off-grid experience. There’s no electricity, and you’ll dine by candlelight. The Italian volunteers also uphold an ancient tradition of washing pilgrims’ feet in the same way that Jesus washed the feet of his apostles before the Last Supper.

I’m told dinner is plentiful. They serve hearty plates of pasta, cheese, and salad, alongside a fizzy, sweet red wine that some suggest is homemade. The albergue only has 12 beds, and you can’t reserve in advance.  However, if you’re looking for an authentic Camino experience this would be it.

The Ermita is also linked to the medieval Puente Fitero, the bridge that once marked the boundary between Castile and León. Crossing here is a milestone; as you leave Burgos province behind, and officially enter Palencia.

Top Tip : there is an water fountain here; Fuente del Piojo which translates as Flea’s Fountain.

Itero de la Vega (2 km)

This tiny hamlet is a classic example of a Meseta village, with simple adobe houses. At the entrance, you’ll find Albergue Hostel Puente Fitero, which serves food and drinks in the attached bar. It’s the main stopping point for pilgrims, so it can get busy.

There is a second bar, but it’s not always open and there’s limited seating; on balance I’d say stop in the first.

If you have a moment, take a quick detour to the Iglesia de San Pedro, built in 1557. Oddly, it’s not on the Camino itself, but you can see it from the main street, just a short minute’s walk away.  But it was locked on my last visit.

For those considering an overnight stay, there are a couple of albergues, but services in the village are minimal. If you’re just passing through, make sure to stop for refreshments though; it’s another 8 kilometres before you’ll reach Boadilla del Camino.

Boadilla del Camino (8.3 km)

The trail between Itero and Boadilla is long.  More crunch, crunch, crunch; the sound of your boots on the gravel path.  You’ll lose yourself in your thoughts as you walk through fields of wheat that stretch off into the distance.

As you walk, especially as you approach Boadilla, keep an eye out for the palomares, or dovecotes. These curious structures served three purposes :

I can still clearly remember the trail to Boadilla del Camino on my first walk; this is from my journal :

The trees on the hill and still there, and these days, I often see pilgrims taking a break in the shade. For me, though, it will always be 23 Tree Hill.

From the hilltop, you’re just a short walk from Boadilla del Camino, where you’ll need to choose: do you stay here or push on to Fromista? I’ve done both and both are good options.

The village itself is tiny, with adobe houses and rustic barns. First mentioned in the 10th century, it’s thought to be much older. At its peak, Boadilla boasted a monastery and four churches, though only remnants remain today.

One landmark you can’t miss is the 15th-century Rollo Jurisdiccional, a gothic stone column used in medieval times to mete out justice. Criminals were tied to it whilst punishments were delivered; a fascinating, if slightly shudder-inducing piece of history.

Canal de Castilla (1.8 km)

Shortly after leaving Boadilla del Camino, you’ll find yourself walking alongside the Canal de Castilla. First conceived during the reign of Philip II in the late 16th century, it was an ambitious project to connect the isolated agricultural heartland with Spain’s trading networks.

Construction didn’t begin until 1753, but challenges like political instability, funding shortages, and difficult terrain meant that only 207 kilometres of the planned 400 were completed. By the mid-19th century, the railways rendered it obsolete but today it serves as a vital irrigation system as well as a cultural landmark.

For pilgrims on the Camino Francés, this peaceful stretch offers a welcome change from the wheat fields, with a little shade provided by the trees lining the water. As you approach Frómista, you’ll walk over the canal’s locks, once considered marvels of engineering.

Keep an eye out for a unique red cross marker along this stretch, which indicates the Camino Lebaniego, a stunning route that leads over the Picos de Europa to the Monastery of Santo Toribio in Potes. We walked this Camino in July 2020, and I can tell you the mountain views over Fuenta De are absolutely spectacular.

Frómista (4 km)

Frómista is a strange little town. Despite offering plenty of services, accommodations, and restaurants, it has a quiet, almost sleepy atmosphere. Sited in the heart of Spain’s grain-growing region, Frómista was once considered one of the breadbaskets of the Roman Empire.

The town’s origins stretch back to the Celts, before passing through Roman, Visigoth, and Moorish hands. By the 10th century, after the Reconquista, the area stabilised, and in 1118, Frómista was donated to the Cluniac Monastery of Carrión de los Condes.

In 1670, the Italian pilgrim Domenico Laffi, known for his pilgrimage diaries, described Frómista as “more of a city” but noted its wretched struggles during a devastating famine and locust plague. Thankfully, the town has since recovered and thrives in quieter ways.

The Iglesia de San Martín de Tours is a worth a visit.  A Romanesque masterpiece, dating back to the 11th century.  I’ve read that in the 19^th century many artistic artefacts and decorations were removed for reasons of decency!  Apparently though a few remain if you want to go treasure hunting!

Frómista also offers a good range of accommodation and a few great restaurants. Be sure to try the local specialities, cordero lechal (roast lamb) and the excellent regional wines.

Top Tip: Frómista has a pharmacy and a medical centre. On one of my Caminos, a member of my group had an unpleasant blister treated at the medical centre and the care was excellent.

Where to Stay in Frómista

Frómista offers accommodations for all budgets, with a mix of bunk beds, private rooms, and simple hotels. While some places are better than others, these are my recommendations if you’re booking ahead:

Potential Challenges Between Castrojeriz and Frómista

As with much of the Meseta, this section of the Camino is relatively flat and easy underfoot; except for that hill! 

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Francés Between Castrojeriz and Frómista

The walk from Castrojeriz to Fromista offers the quintessential Meseta experience.  It’s very rural and leads you through quiet adobe villages, wide-open landscapes, and a few historical landmarks.

You have the contrast of beautiful Castrojeriz, the steep climb of Alto de Mostelares, the expansive plains around Boadilla del Camino and the shady stroll along the Canal de Castilla. It’s a good day on the Camino.

This stage might challenge you physically, and perhaps like me, it also has the potential to nourish your soul. Take time to visit the tiny Ermita de San Nicolás, stop for drinks at Albergue En El Camino, share some shade and conversation with your fellow pilgrims.

The Meseta is boring they say; what nonsense.  It’s glorious.  Walk mindfully, savour the simple pleasures and remember, today you’re one stage closer to Santiago de Compostela!

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail eight times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily guides for each stage of the journey that you may find useful.