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Burgos To Hornillos Del Camino : Step By Step Guide To Stage 13 Of The Camino Frances

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I love the stage from Burgos to Hornillos Del Camino. You quickly find yourself walking from the Cathedral into open countryside.  The trail leads through more urban parks and into green spaces with incredible mountain views on the horizon.

Today’s stage is also a relatively easy one. The distance is manageable, the elevation is comfortable, and the trail feels gentle underfoot. Many pilgrims choose to start their Camino in Burgos; indeed, I’ve led two groups from here. You may notice more people on the trail today, but regardless, this is a good day.

There is one potential hiccup; accommodation in Hornillos. As we walk into rural Spain, securing a bed can become more challenging in the very small villages. Hornillos del Camino has limited options, and the next albergue is over 5 kilometres away. But read on for some suggestions on alternatives.

This 21-kilometre stage is your introduction to the Meseta, the expansive high plateau that characterises much of the middle section of the Camino Francés. And let me tell you, it’s glorious!

Walking The Camino Frances From Burgos To Hornillos Del Camino

The Meseta often gets an unfair rap as being boring. I understand that with limited time, some pilgrims need to skip a stage or two, but walking this day from Burgos shouldn’t be one of those.

The walk from St Jean Pied de Port is often said to test you physically, and the walk from Burgos will test you emotionally; it’s a good analogy. The wide-open landscape of the Meseta allows plenty of time for reflection.  But it also offers beautiful horizons and some wonderful little places to visit.

Towns and Villages Between Burgos And Hornillos Del Camino

There are only a few stops en route, but they are well spaced for a morning coffee or lunch break.

Burgos

Hopefully, if you walked into Burgos, you will have already explored the historic centre. The Romans settled here, but it was fortified by Alfonso III of Leon in 922 and it has been a significant stopping point for pilgrims for centuries.

Burgos Cathedral is an absolute must-visit. A UNESCO World Heritage site, a Gothic masterpiece famed for its intricate architecture and houses the tomb of the legendary Spanish knight, El Cid.

If you haven’t had the chance to explore, I’d recommend at least half a day to see just a little of this glorious city.  If you put the morning aside, you can still walk on and spend the night in Tardajos, or Rabe even, just 10-12 kilometres away.  Which also places you perfectly for a stop in Hontanas the following day.

Top Tip: If you’re in need of hiking gear, Burgos is well-equipped with outdoor shops

Leaving Burgos is relatively straightforward and much shorter than the way in. You’ll head behind the Cathedral, following the arrows through the streets until you reach Parque de la Isla, where you’ll cross the River Arlanzón.

At this point, arrows may direct you around a park, but I’d recommend continuing through the park instead.  If you’ve watched the film The Way, you might recognise this city gate.  Leaving the park, take a right and you’re back on the Camino.

From here, the path leads you through quiet suburbs with wide pavements, and on to a trail and into open countryside.

Tardajos (10.8 km)

This little town was once an important Roman city, sat at the junction of two major Roman roads, including connecting Spain to Gaul (modern-day France). It’s thought to have been settled for much longer though, with archaeological findings dating from the Iron Age.

In medieval times, Tardajos was home to a castle, where King Alfonso VII is thought to have stayed. Today, while much of its grandeur has faded, you can still explore the Iglesia de la Asunción, a towering 16th-century church.

You’ll enter Tardajos along the busy main road but quickly the arrows take you through small residential streets and back into the countryside.  Leaving this busy road marks a bit of a milestone; you won’t walk beside another major road for many days!

There are shops and cafes in town on the main road but you pass a couple of bars on the way out too.  And you’ll find a choice of accommodation; perfect if you wish to spend longer in Burgos.

There is a pilgrim albergue, open from mid-March to mid-November. While beds can’t be reserved, the albergue receives good reviews and is a great option for a traditional stay. If you prefer a bit more comfort, Tardajos also has two small hotels that offer a mix of bunk beds and private rooms.  

You’ll leave town on a quiet country road that you’ll follow this for the next 2 kilometres until the tiny village of Rabe de La Calzadas.

Rabé De Las Calzadas (2.2 Km)

Rabé de las Calzadas has been a stopping point for pilgrims for centuries, with a history stretching back to Roman times.

During the Middle Ages, Rabé was a thriving community, complete with a castle and three churches. While little of that grandeur remains today, the village is still steeped in history; Queen Isabella I of Castile even referenced the local fortress in her will.  And until 1675, the village was owned by Burgos Cathedral!

My overriding memory of this charming little village is the Bar La Peña near the church. If you’re looking for a pause before continuing to Hornillos, I strongly recommend stopping here. The tapas are fabulous, and they serve beer in frozen glasses; perfect for a hot day!

There are also two excellent options for an overnight stay; ideal if you’ve lingered too long in Burgos or if you’re simply looking for a peaceful stop, off the main stages :

(There is a third option in the village, but it doesn’t receive the best reviews, so I’ve left it out.)

As you leave the village, you’ll pass the tiny Ermita de la Virgen de Monasterio, a tiny church with medieval roots, and still offering services to the locals. I once walked through one Sunday in April, and found the little church full to bursting; proof of its continuing role in village life.

From here, the trail opens up into a glorious stretch of countryside.  But, there are no services between Rabé and Hornillos, so be sure to stock up on water before leaving.

Top Tip: Remember to look back as you leave Rabé; the views of the mountains beyond Burgos are great and in spring, they’re often still capped with snow!

Hornillos Del Camino (8 Km)

Just before you reach Hornillos, you’ll walk up to a ridge and the Mirador de Hornillos Del Camino.  The view that is rolled out before you is perhaps one of the most photographed views of the entire Camino Frances!

Hornillos del Camino on the face of it, is a traditional Camino village, with its single main street.  It was first documented in the 9th century, strategically located along a defensive line of Castilian fortresses, stretching from Burgos through to Castrojeriz.

The village’s name, Forniellos, which translates to small ovens, suggesting historical links to kilns. I always knew of the translation but had assumed the ovens baked bread!

Walking the Camino today often feels like stepping back in time, but it’s easy to forget how advanced and interconnected the ancient and medieval worlds really were.  A perfect example of this is here.  In 1156, King Alfonso VII founded a monastery here, which he donated to the Monastery of Saint Denis in Paris. Some years later ownership was transferred to Our Lady of Rocamadour, in south west France. 

The Camino de Santiago was part of a network; a highway of faith, culture, and commerce. Villages like Hornillos del Camino, serve to remind us how seamlessly knowledge, goods, and trade flowed. Pilgrims (and travellers) then, just as they do today, would have shared tales of far-off lands, exchanged tokens and even carried ideas and innovations home from their travels.

Walking the Camino, is not just about a spiritual path but for me at least, it’s also about retracing the threads of this global history.  

Where To Stay In Hornillos Del Camino

I’ve stayed in Hornillos del Camino several times, and it’s a charming little stop. However, it can be difficult to secure accommodation, especially if you’re walking with a group. If you can get a bed, though, it’s a sweet little village to explore.

Be aware there are few services; a small village shop offers snacks and simple groceries, although the albergues do provide pilgrim meals. Some pilgrims do choose to push on to Hontanas, which is better equipped with services, but this adds a further 10 kilometres to your day.

Top Tip: Accommodation in Hornillos Del Camino fills quickly and is limited; I do recommend that you call ahead and check for a bed.

Potential Challenges Between Burgos And Hornillos Del Camino

Today’s walk is easy in comparison to the previous few days and shouldn’t present any problems.  But there’s a few things to consider :

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts On The Camino Frances Between Burgos And Hornillos Del Camino

Today is a good day; it feels very different from the Camino Frances stages you’ve walked so far. This is the start of the Meseta, a region often described as the breadbasket of Spain, where the trail winds through field after field of wheat.

The Meseta has an undeserved reputation for being flat and boring, but the reality is far more beautiful. The trail is gentle but not completely; it rolls gently, with wide-open views framed by distant mountains. It’s a landscape that offers time and space for reflection.

I remember starting this day on my first Camino with low expectations. I’d read about the so-called boring views and was prepared for monotony. I left Burgos in the grey light of early morning, walking as the sun rose and it was glorious!

Don’t be tempted to skip this stage. It’s steeped in history and pilgrimage, and there are a few wonderful places to pause along the way.  But, during busy months, plan ahead for accommodation!

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail eight times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily guides for each stage of the journey that you may find useful.