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Fromista To Carrion de los Condes : Step By Step Guide To Stage 16 Of The Camino Frances

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If you’ve read my previous posts, you’ll know that walking the Camino Frances is an amazing  journey through history, culture and the ever-changing landscapes of Northern Spain. Stage 16, from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes is no exception.

As we move deeper into the Meseta, the landscape transforms into vast, open expanses stretching to the horizon.  This stage is relatively easy with no elevation to challenge you; however, the official route alongside the P-980 can feel monotonous. Fortunately, the Villovieco river variant offers a more scenic alternative, away from the road and easier on the eyes.

Today’s stage, especially if you choose the variant, will provide a mix of big views, adobe villages, and a few historical landmarks. Walk with me, enjoy the sea of wheat in spring, explore the ancient churches en-route and I’ll show you that today is anything but boring!  

Walking the Camino Frances from Fromista to Carrion de los Condes

Today’s stage is certainly flat, making it less physically demanding. However, the open landscapes and exposed paths of the Meseta can challenge your mental resilience and leave you exposed to the elements, so preparation is key.

But first you’ll need to find the arrows out of Fromista and they will lead you through a few tiny villages before eventually taking you in to the historic town of Carrion de los Condes.

However, you have two route options first:

Whichever path you take, both lead you to Carrion de los Condes in around 20 kilometres; but having done both, on balance I recommend the variant. The map below shows the variant.

Towns and Villages Between Fromista and Carrion de los Condes

While today’s stage of the Camino Frances isn’t long, services can be unpredictable. I’ve walked this route when bars and cafes were all open in every village, and I’ve also walked when there were none. My advice, as always, is to be prepared and carry enough water and snacks to see you through.

Fromista

Much of the accommodation in Fromista is off the Camino, so you’ll need to retrace, past the church to pick up the yellow arrows. If you haven’t had breakfast there’s often a bar open along this stretch for a morning coffee.

In 2022, some of my group decided to follow the lead of the locals and paired their Café con Leche with a shot of the local coffee liqueur. It was pretty strong and certainly gave them a kick-start, but it’s not something I’d recommend for the early hours!

Poblacion de Campos (3.6 km)

A short walk from Fromista brings you to Poblacion de Campos, dating from the 11th century. It was once home to a pilgrim hospice run by the Order of the Knights of St John of Malta; as you enter the village, look-out on the left for their medieval 13th-century chapel. The 16th-century Iglesia de la Magdalena is also said to be worth a quick visit if it’s open.

Today, Poblacion de Campos is a quiet village, but still caters to pilgrims with a simple albergue (Albergue de peregrinos de Población de Campos) and a well-reviewed Casa Rural.

There are also two bars in town:

Leaving the village, you’ll have the choice of routes :

Traditional Route : Revenga de Campos (3.7 km)

Revenga de Campos is the first village you’ll encounter on the traditional route. While there are some services here, the Camino skirts the edge. But you do pass an excellent bar, El Arbol, as you enter.

Revenga de Campos is thought to have been known as Revendica in 935 and was once significant enough to have two parish churches before 1345. Today, only the Church of San Lorenzo remains, and the village has a population of just 175.

As you leave, there’s a small picnic area on the left, likely on the opposite side of the road from your path. If you continue along the traditional route you’ll quickly arrive at Villarmentero de Campos.

Top Tip : if you wish to leave the traditional route here, you can take a small country road just after the picnic spot, on the exit of the village, signed for Villavieco.  This does join the river route.

Traditional Route : Villarmentero de Campos (2.1 km)

This tiny village sits on the edge of the main road, again the Camino skirts around. Albergue Amanecer, a much-loved pilgrim stop, it’s simple and clean, with room for 20 pilgrims. It’s known for its quirky and spiritual vibe, many consider it a highlight of their Camino experience, especially their highly rated communal dinners.

If you’re looking for private rooms, Casa Rural La Casona de Doña Petra is another good option, offering an evening meal and comfortable accommodation.

I’ve not stayed at either but you can pause for a while at the albergue for refreshments.  From here it’s about an hour’s walk to Villalcázar de Sirga.

Villovieco River Varient : Villovieco

For the variant, at the bridge in Población de Campos, don’t cross but follow the signs for the Senda del Río Ucieza. The river will at this point be on your left as you follow mostly gravel paths.

While there are services along this path, it’s wise to stop for refreshments in Población de Campos first. The river trail meanders for about 4 kilometres before reaching the small village of Villovieco.

You’ll skirt this village, it stays on your right and as you leave the village, you’ll cross an old stone bridge over the Río Ucieza. Opposite this bridge, you’ll find El Chiringuito de Villovieco, a small café with a garden and toilets. Sadly, it’s not always open but on one of my walks, a chap in my group saved the day with a Pocket Rocket camping stove; meaning we could warm up with a much-needed cup of coffee.

From the cafe, the path continues along the river, with the water now on your right.  The trail drops you out onto a quiet road where you’ll pass the imposing Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Río. This substantial building, which served as a parish church until 1560, holds a fascinating history. Local legend tells of a flood in 1101 that devastated the area. 

Villagers reported witnessing the Virgin Mary moving upstream against the current to rest at this site. It makes me smile that apparently, initial efforts to build were thwarted, as every day the construction would collapse.  The Virgin then appeared a second time, offering exact (correct) location for the site which happily remains intact today!  

Each year, on the Monday after Pentecost, villagers celebrate a procession to honour the Virgin in this hermitage, a tradition maintained since 1650.

Villalcazar de Sirga (4.3 km)

From the road, it is possible to bypass and continue straight to Carrión, but this is a great shame. Not only does Villalcázar de Sirga boast an incredible  church, it also offers a great little bar. And if you follow the River Variant you’ll walk into the village and both routes merge.

The Church of Santa María la Blanca is a stunning 13th-century structure with ties to the Knights Templar. It is said to be a site of miracles, and if it’s open, it’s well worth a visit. On one of my visits, I was lucky enough to get a sello here, but on another, I found it closed; timing is everything! 

Top Tip : Again there is so much history in this little church and much is explained in The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago by David Gitlitz.  I can’t recommend this little book highly enough and I have it on my kindle and refer to it on every walk.

On my first Camino I stopped at Bar Las Cantigas, opposite the church. I was feeling homesick and rushing, thinking that walking faster would somehow bring me closer to home. Sitting alone on the terrace, I texted Gerry, telling him I had to slow down; and that speed wasn’t helping me. I wrote in my journal that a few fat tears rolled down my cheeks as I typed. Anyone would think I wasn’t loving this experience, I genuinely loved my Camino and didn’t want it to end, but I also couldn’t help but miss my family too.

Villalcázar de Sirga also has several accommodation options for those who wish to stay overnight:

However, most pilgrims, choose to continue on to Carrion de los Condes after refreshments, a good size town with all services.

Carrion de los Condes (5.9 km)

The Romans called this town Lacobriga.  The Visigoths left their mark with tombs, and the Moors, who arrived in 713, constructed a castle on the site where the Iglesia de Belén now stands. Legend claims that even Charlemagne himself camped in Carrión during his campaign to protect the Camino de Santiago from invaders.

In the 11th century and throughout the Middle Ages, Carrion de los Condes was one of the wealthiest and most important towns in north-central Spain, with a population of perhaps 10,000 people. It was a significant stop on the Camino, in it’s heyday, boasting no fewer than 14 pilgrim hospices. Indeed, the town still has several albergue still under the care of religious orders. One of the most popular is Santa María, where the nuns sing at vespers.  I’ve never been able to secure a bed but you can still go to vespers and hear the nuns.

While it’s no longer the commercial hub it once was, Carrion has plenty of services including supermarkets, pharmacies, a launderette and an outdoor shop.  There’s a choice of restaurants although most pilgrims find their way to Plaza Mayor for food and drinks. 

There’s plenty to see and explore and it’s a good stop; especially considering that the next stop is over 17 kilometres away with no services in between!

Where to Stay in Carrion de los Condes

Carrion offers a mix of traditional albergue, comfortable hostels, and even a luxurious hotel on the outskirts that rivals a Parador. While there are too many options for me to list, here are the places I know, have stayed at, or can personally recommend:

Potential Challenges Between Fromista and Carrion de los Condes

While the flat terrain may seem straightforward, this stage still has its challenges. The openness of the Meseta can leave you exposed to the elements; with only a few options for shade or shelter.  

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Fromista and Carrion de los Condes

I completely understand why some people find the Meseta challenging; its openness and vastness can feel monotonous. But that’s exactly why I love it. The landscape here is a striking contrast to the mountains of Roncesvalles on Stage 1 or the rolling hills of Rioja before Santo Domingo on Stage 9.

In spring, you’ll see the fields of wheat almost liquid in the breeze. In autumn, the freshly ploughed lines of the till in the orange soil create patterns across the land.  I love this region.  I enjoy the subtle beauty that only slow travel reveals.

Take the time today to pause in the shade, explore the history, and look for the simple pleasures. Find a quiet place on the trail and lose yourself in the sound of your feet on the gravel (crunch crunch crunch) and love this day as I do.

Stage 16 may not boast the scenery of earlier stages, but it offers a chance to connect with the Camino. Lose yourself in your thoughts while still feeling part of a pilgrim community; and for me that makes today special.

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.