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Carrion de los Condes To Terradillos de los Templarios: Step By Step Guide To Stage 17 Of The Camino Frances

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Stage 17 of the Camino Frances from Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios is a stage that many pilgrims approach with some trepidation; it’s the longest stretch since the Pyrenees without a single service. Just 17.6 kilometres of uninterrupted trail.

This is the Meseta. The first time I walked this section, I felt apprehensive, but now it’s one that my groups genuinely look forward to. We plan ahead, share picnics, and in spring, the colours are amazing. On my last few walks, food trucks have added a little welcome respite to the journey; but don’t depend on them. And there are still no other services!

So pack a picnic, embrace the open fields of the Meseta, and come stroll with me through this unique stage of the Camino.

Top Tip: Ensure you’re carrying enough water and snacks; this is a long stretch with little shade or services.

Walking the Camino Frances from Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios

At 26.6 km, this stage is one of the longer days on the Camino Frances and is characterised by its long, open trails with few opportunities for rest or shade.

Starting in Carrion de los Condes, you’ll walk through the very heart of the Meseta now. Yes it will be flat and yes it will be long but if you look, it will be anything but boring.  Keep an eye out for hawks and kites overhead and in spring, the fields come alive with wildflowers. On clear days, you can see the distant mountains on the horizon.

The route partially follows the ancient Roman Via Aquitania, once a vital trade road connecting Gaul/France to Spain. However for much of your day you’ll walk through a vast expanse of farmland.  

Whilst this stage for some can be meditative, for some it can feel monotonous and the sameness of the landscape a challenge. But keep those spirits high as without doubt Calzadilla de la Cueza, will eventually appear on the horizon.

From Calzadilla, the terrain will be similar to previous days and just like the approach into Carrion de los Condes, you’ll be following the road into Ledigos.

Top Tip : Ensure you have plenty of water, snacks, and protection from the weather—whether it’s sunscreen and a hat for the sun or layers to shield you from wind or rain.

Towns and Villages Between Carrion de los Condes and Terradillos de los Templarios

This stage offers just a handful of villages, so opportunities to pause are few. While the official endpoint is Terradillos de los Templarios, I always end my day in Ledigos.  Indeed, apart from my first walk, I’ve stayed in the same albergue!

Carrion de los Condes

Have breakfast before leaving Carrion de los Condes; there is usually one café open around Plaza Mayor. And ensure you have supplies; enough water and snacks to carry you through the 17.6 km. While the path is straightforward and not physically demanding, it is exposed to the elements.  It’s a long walk to Calzadilla so preparation is key.

Also, expect the trail to be bustling with pilgrims. Carrion is a popular overnight stop and pilgrims start leaving from first light. But generally, the signage is good and you should have no trouble finding your way.

And as you leave, look out for the Real Monasterio de San Zoilo, a glorious historical monastery now converted into a rather swish hotel.

Once past the monastery, you’ll navigate a few small roads before reaching the start of the long, white, gravel trail. From this point on, it’s simply a case of following the path as it stretches into the horizon towards Calzadilla de la Cueza.

Top Tip : I know I’ve said this before but try to avoid playing loud music.  Remember your earbuds as most folks don’t want to listen to your tunes .  It just means we have to hang back or walk quickly to find space and quiet.

Calzadilla de la Cueza (17.3 km)

Let me tell you now; you will feel so happy to when you see the bar at the end of the long stretch to Calzadilla de la Cueza!  And the good news is that it’s a great bar and virtually everyone stops here!

Calzadilla de la Cueza is a tiny village, offering only a few basic amenities. There’s a small shop, the ever-popular bar, and a selection of albergue for those looking to end their day here.

While the village may seem modest, it was once a key stop along the Roman Via Aquitania, the area was known as Viminacio in Roman times. For history enthusiasts, there’s a 16th-century church to explore, a reminder of the village’s enduring role on this ancient path. However, for most pilgrims, Calzadilla is celebrated today as the endpoint of the Meseta’s famously long, straight trail.

If you wish to stay overnight, there are two great options:

Leaving Calzadilla de la Cueza

Watch out for confusing arrows as you leave Calzadilla de la Cueza. There are a few route variations between here and Terradillos and Moritanos, which could mess up your plans if you’re looking to stay in either.

I’ve included a couple of maps below but my recommendation as always; buy Wise Pilgrim and use it for these little variants. And the app shows you on the map in real time and is so very useful in times of confusion.

Ledigos (6.1 km)

While it’s possible to skip Ledigos and continue to Terradillos de los Templarios, I choose to end my day here. It’s a charming alternative to the longer stage and one of my favourite albergue along the Camino Frances can be found here.

This tiny village still has a rich history. Its name comes from the Latin Letificus, probably the name of a Roman landowner. But it was in the 9th century, when Queen Doña Urraca donated Ledigos to the Church of Santiago de Compostela, that underscored its importance along the Camino Frances. The Parish Church of Santiago Apostol, reflects this legacy.

Today, Ledigos is a sleepy village, with adobe and wood houses, very typical of this region but it continues to welcome and provide services for pilgrims. I’ve stayed in both village albergue, and while Albergue El Palomar does offers a traditional pilgrim experience, it’s Albergue La Morena that remains my favourite.  

Albergue La Morena offers cubicle-style bunk beds, comfortable private rooms, a great bar and serves dinner and breakfast. For me, it strikes the balance between modern comfort and Camino charm. I’m always a big fan of accommodation that offers both bunks and private rooms; it’s great for meeting up with pilgrims.

Over the years, this albergue has grown but for me at least, it retains character and I know I’ll be staying there again!

Terradillos de los Templarios (3.2 km)

I’ve always been fascinated by the name of this tiny village, so I did a little digging. The area was possibly first settled by the Romans; a 6th-century document refers to a villa or settlement here. However, it was the Knights Templar who truly put Terradillos de los Templarios on the map.

The name itself can be translated as:

I also heard of a legend saying this village was the birthplace of the goose and the golden eggs. According to the story, the parish priest of San Esteban church would annually deliver a golden egg to Santiago de Compostela. But was there really a goose? It’s more likely that the tale is a metaphor for the Templars’ prosperity and their contributions to the Camino route, mixing history with folklore.

By the Middle Ages, Terradillos de los Templarios had become a key stop for pilgrims, featuring a Templar-run pilgrim hospital that provided refuge along the often treacherous Meseta. Although I’ve never stayed here, there are two albergue choices and it’s a good place to stop for breakfast or refreshments; though I must admit, I have a soft spot for the café in Moratinos, which is listed on tomorrow’s stage!

Where to Stay in Terradillos de los Templarios

Terradillos de los Templarios offers two albergue: Jacques de Molay and Los Templarios. I’ve not stayed in either but after a little research this might help you choose :

Albergue Jacques de Molay

Named after the last Grand Master of the Knights Templar, this private albergue is centrally located in the village on the Camino.

Facilities:

Pros:

Cons:

Albergue Los Templarios

Situated at the entrance of Terradillos de los Templarios, this modern albergue offers a mix of private rooms and shared dormitories.

Facilities:

Pros:

Cons:

Potential Challenges Between Carrion de los Condes and Terradillos de los Templarios

Like so much of the Meseta, this stage can be deceptively challenging despite its flat terrain. 

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Carrion de los Condes and Terradillos de los Templarios

You’ve probably guessed that I’m a bit of a sucker for history, and these ancient villages, with their legends and links to the Knights Templar spark my interest. (By the way, wait until you get to Ponferrada!)

But beyond the tales, this stage will truly test you; especially if the weather decides to be unkind. Whether you’re walking in hot sun or cold rain, today can be challenging. Stage 17 between Carrion de los Condes and Terradillos de los Templarios is a unique section of the Camino Frances. It does offer a chance to immerse yourself in the simplicity and solitude of the Meseta. But it can also challenge you.

I’ve walked from Carrion de los Condes many times, and over the years, I’ve developed my own way of dealing with the long sections and flat terrain. One of the key things I do is focus on the small details; the things you might miss if you weren’t walking.

Look for the wildflowers, the patterns of the shadows, the shape of the clouds, or even the little insects going about their day. I also find beauty in the landscape; the lone tree against the flat horizon, and oh my, those mountains in the distance.

A few years ago, I walked this stage with a dear friend who passed away soon after. During her brief illness, I told her that I didn’t want her to send me white feathers, but I wanted glitter, and one of the last things I said to her was, ‘Don’t forget to sparkle.’ The first time I walked this stretch without her, new gravel had been laid, and in the sunlight, it looked to me like the path was paved with tiny diamonds.

As I said before; look for the beauty in the detail, enjoy the quiet and don’t forget your earbuds!

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.