Hospital De Bruma to Sigueiro: Stage Four Of The Camino Ingles

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Today felt like an easier day on the Camino Ingles.  The worst of the elevation was behind us and Santiago de Compostela was in our sights. 

There is more road walking between Hospital de Bruma and Sigueiro, but plenty of off-road too. You also have an option to take a route variation and pause at a couple of very nice coffee stops.  And for those who like to meander, there is an opportunity to break the stage.

Today is mostly downhill (hoorah).  After the elevation from Pontedeume and Betanzos, the easier trail was very welcome.  Keep reading to explore the kilometres in detail.

Stage Four Of The Camino Ingles : Hospital De Bruma to Sigueiro

Before walking the Camino Ingles, I’d read much about recent route changes; recent as in the last few years. Many people have voiced opinions in favour and against the new route and many folks seek out the old path, even though it’s no longer marked.

I do prefer to follow arrows.  One of the things I love about walking the Camino de Santiago is how well marked it is; I can put away my maps and just walk.  However, there have been a few exceptions on the Camino Ingles.  Today was one of those days and you’ll have a choice to make at kilometre 18.

Take Two Days And Break The Stage At O Outeiro or A Calle

Today is a rather straightforward 24 kilometre walk.  Many folks are happy to walk this stage in its entirety but if you prefer the idea of a gentle day, there are options that allow you to break the stage.

Your options include :

Full Stage Details of Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma

Whilst there is an excellent bar/restaurant in Hospital de Bruma, it doesn’t open until 9:00am.  We stayed in the San Lorenzo Albergue and there are vending machines for hot drinks.   

It’s a good idea to consider your options before you set out as there are no services in Bruma. 

Distance : 24.69 km | Elevation gain : 204 m  | Elevation loss : 369 m

Both albergue in Hospital de Bruma are directly on the Camino, so there are no problems finding the arrows.  The distances below assume that you’ve started your walk from Bruma.

Walking from O Meson do Vento

If you stayed overnight in O Meson do Vento, you will add just under 2 kilometres to your total walk to Sigueiro.  Leaving town, you’ll re-join the Camino just after O Siexo.  It’s an easy walk out of the town and you can use google maps to direct you back to the Camino.

3.5 kms : Coffee and A Dinosaur?

Cabeza de Lobo is around the 3.5 kilometres mark.  I’ve seen this little hamlet called Cabeza de Lobo, Ordes, O Porto and O Castro.   Regardless, you’ll know you’ve arrived when you spot the huge dinosaur. 

There is a café here Bar Uzal.  It was closed when we walked by but could be an option for breakfast for those leaving later? 

There is a stone statue of Santiago beside the bar but we were distracted by the dinosaur and the tractor roller-coaster.  I tried to find out why the collection exists but I found nothing; I guess it’s just one persons folly and it made us smile.  I’ve since seen photos of the dinosaur eating a model-person; there was no trace of that victim as we walked by!

Top Tip : If you’d like a photo of St James he’s on the opposite side of the road to the dinosaur beside the café.

7 kms : Coffee and Casa Rural at A Rua

The walk into A Rua was along quiet country roads with a section of lovely forest trail.  We had rain for the best part of this morning and were very happy to take a break at Café Bar Novo in A Rua.  We’re happy to report the coffee was excellent and we probably lingered too long, but the rain was heavy and we weren’t tempted to move. 

If you’re looking to break this stage, opposite the bar is a charming little hotel, Casa Rural Dona Maria; it looks a lovely place to stay and gets very good reviews.

9.5 kms : O Outeiro (Ordes)

The rain eased and I was also delighted with the occasional move away from the rural roads and onto softer trails. 

If you’re looking to break your day there are a couple of options in O Outeiro.  The fairly new Xunta albergue has 42 beds.  It’s pilgrim orientated and does not accept reservations but has very excellent reviews.

Like many Xunta albergues, the kitchen does not have utensils although there is a microwave.  There are no bars or shops but you can eat in the nearby Casa Rural Anton Veiras.  You can also book a bed in the Casa Rural if you prefer.

This is another lovely section, walking through tiny hamlets on quiet country roads with diversions  off onto softer trails.

Top Tip : My app had warned us that there were confusing (purple) arrows leaving Outeiro but I have to say we didn’t find this; however it’s worth noting the advice and keep a look out for the yellow arrows. 

11.7 Kms : A Calle With Accommodation

After A Calle there are no services until you reach Sigueiro so you will definitely want to make a stop at Bar O Cruceiro.  But be warned, almost every other pilgrim will stop here so expect it to be busy. 

This is a lovely bar.  The food is excellent and the ambiance is also great.  We stopped and chatted with most of our new friends during our extended stay.  I also knew that today that I’d meet up with the lovely Nidarosa from Somewhere Slowly and was thrilled to hear my voice called from across the bar.

Top Tip : You will need to leave your rucksack and poles outside the bar.  Make sure you leave no valuables and if you’re travelling with someone, buckle the waist straps together.  This makes it much harder for someone grab your pack by mistake.

You can stay in A Rua, at Casa da Pinguela Camino Inglés.  This is a house and not a hotel but for a small group sharing it’s a very good price, and you can eat in Bar O Cruceiro.  This is the halfway point for this stage so this little house is a great option for slow strollers.

18 kms : Choose Your Route

The walk from A Calle is rather lovely.  The sun came out for us too, which added to the walk and more importantly, there was plenty of opportunity to walk on softer trails.

I knew in advance that at Baxoia there was a route option, and a rather contentious change from the original Camino Ingles.  The Camino crossed the AP-9 motorway and following this you’ll have the choice.  You can follow the arrows and walk beside the motorway for a good 4 kilometres or you can join the old route.  The old route is a long straight road on tarmac but a quiet country road.

The new route is safe, you are separated from the motorway, but here are a few things to consider :

We took the old route so we can’t directly compare the two routes, but talking to other pilgrims and reading other blogs, I think most folks found the new route a bit miserable.  Indeed, as we walked off to find the old route we passed a couple (of locals) and asked if we were on the right trail.  They told us “yes and the old route is nicer than the new”.  It seems even locals wonder why the route changed?

Top Tip : The old route isn’t on soft trail.  If you decide to take the old route bear in mind that you will be walking on tarmac, albeit on a quiet country road.

23 Kms : Old and New Merge

Regardless of which route option you choose, both paths will meet on the outskirts of Sigueiro at around the 23 kilometre mark.  Sigueiro is a reasonable size town with all services, so your last kilometres of the day will take you through the urban outskirts.

There is a short walk through a pretty park but on the day we walked it was closed due to a local cycling race.  Normally the route is well marked and easy to follow.

24.7 Kilometres : Sigueiro

When Gerry and I walk we have a rule when we arrive at our destination; bar or bed.  If we find a bar first we’ll stop for a drink.  If however we find our bed first then we check-in.  Thankfully, after 12 kilometres without refreshments we found a wonderful bar just a few steps from our albergue. 

Cerveceria Valle is virtually on the Camino and whilst it looks very simple, they served us an excellent lunch, they had gluten free beer, provided with gluten free tapas and had a gluten free menu; 5 stars in my book!

Top Tip : Sigüeiro is written with dots over the letter u.  In Spanish this means that if the letter u comes after the letter g and is followed by a vowel,  it should be pronounced like an English w.   

Sigüeiro is a small agricultural town and whilst it looks more functional than charming it nonetheless has a strong Camino history. I’ve read that it was a Roman town but I’ve not found any details of this history.  However, it’s clear that the town’s development was closely tied to the Camino de Santiago and has served as a place of shelter since medieval times.  

I liked this town.  It felt like a real working town rather than a tourist attraction, and as pilgrims we were made very welcome.  It was a good end to a good day.

Where to Stay In Sigueiro

There is a range of accommodation in Sigueiro.  We opted to stay in the popular albergue Camino Real; they offer private rooms as well as bunk beds.

Top Tip : If you book private rooms at Albergue Camino Real for a group, you may be in different buildings. My sister was in the albergue, I was in a building down the street and our friends across the road.  Everywhere is so close this was not an issue but if you need rooms close together, mention when booking.

Top Tip : Even if you’re not staying in Albergue Miras, go to their restaurant for dinner.  The meal was excellent, don’t be tempted to over-order though as the portions are huge! 

Final Thoughts on Stage Four Between Hospital de Bruma and Sigueiro

I really enjoyed today’s stage.  The route passes through several pretty villages offering glimpses of rural Galician life. Services are sparse but we enjoyed a couple of very nice pauses in the company of pilgrims.

I was particularly grateful for the opportunities to get off the road and walk on trails, although do expect a lot of tarmac over the last few kilometres into Sigueiro.  And if 24 kilometres feels like a long day, there are opportunities to break the stage.

Overall this is another wonderful day and our evening meal in Restaurant Miras was the icing on the cake.  It felt like everyone that we’d met along the Camino Ingles was there to join us.  And as the last night before Santiago de Compostela there was definitely a festive atmosphere.