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Ferrol to Pontedeume: Practical Walking Guide for Stage 1 of the Camino Ingles

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The first day of the Camino Ingles from Ferrol to Pontedeume is long.  Initially, I planned to cross the first footbridge and walk the full stage, but then I decided to split it in two.  I wanted to make the most of the coastal views and estuary walk and walk at a more relaxed pace.  That quickly proved to be an excellent decision!

Stage one of the Camino Ingles seamlessly moves us from old-town to new, coastal trails and pretty seaside villages. While researching, I read conflicting advice, with some pilgrims calling this Camino dull, with too much tarmac. After walking it myself, I’d agree there is tarmac, but you could never call this way dull.

I loved this Camino, and I’m already planning a return. In this guide, I’ll share places to pause, how to break the stage easily, accommodation ideas and how to make the most of the coastal paths and village strolls.

Walking the Camino Ingles from Ferrol to Pontedeume

Many guides list the stage between Ferrol and Pontedeume as approximately 28 kilometres, but this typically skips the wonderful variants and Magdalena Beach, which you won’t want to miss.  I feel with this added in the stage is a long 32 kilometres.

However, you can adapt this stage to suit your pace, timescales and interests:

However, if your schedule allows, I highly recommend that you split this stage in two. There is accommodation in Neda but if not, spend two nights in Ferrol.  Doing this allows for a more relaxing walk, time for a leisurely lunch and the option of crossing the river in two different ways.

This approach was perfect for me, giving us time to enjoy the route without rushing. Keep reading and I’ll explain exactly how you can structure your own journey.

How We Broke Stage 1 From Ferrol Into Two Days

I know I’m happy walking longer days but I often feel that’s not the point. I want to meander my way along. I like to stop if I see something interesting or chat with other pilgrims and sometimes just sit and look at the view. So I broke this day into two. It was a great choice!

Day 1 : Ferrol to Neda (18 kms)

We walked from the Pilgrim Office in Ferrol to the centre of Neda.  We followed every arrow and took every deviation.  We spent time investigating parks and statues and churches and cafes. It was a glorious walk. 

There’s accommodation in Neda, but if it’s fully booked, a bus back to Ferrol is an easy alternative. We enjoyed an excellent, leisurely lunch in Neda, and returned to Ferrol by bus for just €1.55.

Day 2 : Monasterio de San Martin de Xubia to Pontedeume (15 kms)

After breakfast in Ferrol, we took a taxi (€7) back to the Monasterio de San Martiño de Xubia. We crossed the estuary via the footbridge, resuming our walk in Neda. Picking up the arrows again was straightforward from there.

Splitting the stage allowed us to fully experience the best of the stage.  We walked every step, we got to cross the estuary and walk around it!  If you follow suit you can :

Before I walked I’d considered taking the shortcuts but I am so glad that we didn’t. The two shorter days allowed us to find our Camino legs and I really loved this estuary walk.

Towns and Villages Between Ferrol and Pontedeume

Along this stage, you’ll encounter a few towns and villages. Ferrol itself is surprisingly large, and you’ll walk for some distance through the town to the suburbs.  Thankfully, the urban walk quickly gives way to a more pleasant coastal path.

I recommend grabbing breakfast in Ferrol and taking advantage of cafés along the route. And keep in mind, that there are a few longer stretches without services, so carry enough water and snacks for the journey.

Ferrol

The official starting point for the Camino Ingles is just a few steps from Ferrol’s Tourist Information Office, which also serves as the Pilgrim Office. Here, you can pick up your first sello (stamp) and purchase your Pilgrim Credential. The staff also provided us with a useful map filled with route details.

Standing outside the Tourist Office, you’ll see the large Ferrol city letters straight ahead. To your left is Café Sarga, and just before it, you’ll spot the official granite marker indicating the start of the English Way.

Top Tip: Ferrol is a lovely city with plenty to discover. If your itinerary allows, I recommend allowing extra time to explore. For more suggestions, check out my Pilgrim’s Guide for the city.

Leaving Ferrol

Your route initially takes you through Ferrol’s old town, past urban parks, and into the newer parts of the city. There are Cafés in the old town, so grab breakfast before you leave, as there won’t be another café stop for about 7 km.

The route out of town is generally well-marked, but as with all towns, pay attention to the arrows. We enjoyed meandering, taking in shop windows and parks and green spaces.  I was surprised by how large Ferrol is, so do expect plenty of pavement walking here.  Another great advantage of splitting this day is that you can take your time.

Once you pass the docks you’ll find yourself on a waterside path, popular with locals so expect a good number of Buen Caminos.

At around 5 kilometres there’s a landing jetty, it’s just a few metres walk down to the water and the views are wonderful.  Walking on you’ll reach the Capela de Caranza, it looks older than it is; it was built in the 1900s but the views are wonderful so it’s worth a minute to step off the trail.

Walking on if the tide is out you might find a few locals searching for cockles or clams; they’re typically found just beneath the sand’s surface, at low tide.

Poligono da Gandara / FE-14 Bridge shortcut to Pontedeume (6.2 km)

If you need to shorten this stage significantly, you have the option to cross the FE-14 road bridge here, instead of continuing towards Xubia and Neda. The shortcut will reduce your total distance by around 10 km, and you’ll still qualify for a Compostela, as the total distance still remains over 100 km.

To take this shortcut, change direction at around the 6 km mark and follow the signs to the FE-14 bridge to Fene. There’s a dedicated pedestrian footpath offering great coastal views. If you’re unsure follow Google Maps.

If you’re not taking the shortcut, simply continue along the marked route, following the arrows, through an urban (light industrial) area with plenty of small local businesses and, importantly, a very nice café.

Cerveceria O Mariscador (2 km)

About 8 km into your day, you’ll reach Cerveceria O Mariscador, a very welcome coffee stop. The outdoor terrace is usually busy with fellow pilgrims, making it an great place to take a well-earned rest.

Have a drink and something to eat; they serve hot and cold snacks as well as drinks. I thoroughly enjoyed my café con leche and slice of tortilla patatas.  This is also a great place to greet your fellow pilgrims; you’ll be crossing paths a great deal over the next few days.

Monastery of San Martino de Xubia (2 km)

Leaving the café, follow the arrows to the outskirts of Ferrol as the route shifts from urban to a more rural landscape.

At the historic Monasterio de San Martiño de Xubia, you have another choice to make:

Top Tip: To take this shortcut, take the road to the left beside the monastery, following a grassy path that appears to lead nowhere. You’ll quickly find yourself on a pedestrian bridge over the estuary, connecting to the small spit of land that also carries the train tracks to Neda.

On our second day, we took a taxi from Ferrol directly to the monastery, crossed the estuary, and rejoined our route at Neda, where we’d left the day before. It was a delightful way to start the morning!

The Monasterio de San Martiño de Xubia is ancient with a fascinating history. Documents from May 977 mention a donation by a noblewoman, indicating the monastery was well-established even then. Records also hint at its turbulent past, including Viking attacks in the 9th century and extensive reconstruction in the early 12th century.

Today, the monastery still serves as a parish church. It was closed during our visit, but we still explored the exterior.  It’s just mad to think that this building existed so long ago and that monks were living here almost 1,200 years ago!

The Alternative Loop To Xubia (2.2 km)

At around the 12-kilometre mark, you’ll reach another decision point:

This longer path adds 1.4 km to your day, but if you’re splitting the stage, it’s well worth the extra steps. I loved this choice because I felt as though we walked every step of the estuary.

You’ll see two sets of Camino markers clearly indicating your options:

Choosing the scenic route leads you under the bridge and uphill briefly, then down towards the historic tidal mill, Muíño das Aceas.

Muíño das Aceas dates back to the late 18th century, forming part of a French milling network. It once operated as one of Galicia’s largest flour mills, harnessing tidal energy using a seawater reservoir.

From here, you follow the footpath around the estuary following the arrows guide to the the colourfully painted underpass at the entrance of Narón’s park area.

Top Tip: Along this section, you’ll spot markers featuring a red fish. These indicate a local trail, the Ruta dos Muíños, which shares the path with the Camino.

Park and Riverside Walk to Naron (2.3 km)

From the brightly painted subway, you’ll continue along a pretty walk through Xubia towards Narón, with an obligatory photo stop by the large “Narón” letters.

The route here is well-marked, though we were a little confused by the modern footbridge near the letters. Don’t cross here. Continue following the riverside path to an older bridge, and you’ll walk by  one of Europe’s largest Magnolia trees.

Follow the arrows over the bridge and you’ll soon find yourself near the Xunta Albergue of Neda. It is very close to that modern bridge you skipped, but taking the scenic route means you don’t miss the magnolia tree!

If you’re planning to stay here, look for the modern building. It’s open year-round exclusively to pilgrims but does not accept reservations.

Santa Maria de Neda or Neda (2.7 km)

Neda is an ideal spot to conclude your first day. When we walked, all accommodation options were fully booked, so we chose to return to our hotel in Ferrol by bus. However, if you’re lucky, there are excellent places to stay here and in Neda:

It is possible to end your day at the 16 kilometre mark.  There is a pilgrim albergue and also a small pension here or walk on a few kilometres into the centre of Neda for alternative hotels.

Neda (0.8 km)

Continuing just a short distance through rows of old stone houses and occasional sleepy cats, you’ll arrive in the town of Neda. The Camino runs parallel to the busier high street, so you may want to step off the arrows to find food and other services.

We ended our first day in Neda. Knowing that accommodation was fully booked, we chose to catch the bus back to Ferrol, returning to our very comfortable Parador. There is a bus every 30 minutes running between Neda and Ferrol. 

Top Tip: We had a great lunch at Restaurante O Lagar do Camiño, the only restaurant open when we arrived in Neda. It was honestly more enjoyable than our Parador dinner and I’d recommend the short detour; it might just be the best €12 you’ll spend on the Camino Inglés.

Crossing At Xubia : Our Day Two Start

If, like us, you choose to spend two nights in Ferrol, you’ll have a wonderful opportunity to cross the estuary on the footpath beside the Monasterio de San Martiño de Xubia, alongside the railway line.

We took a taxi from Ferrol (7€) and set off after breakfast, crossing with a high tide, a clear blue sky, and we loved loved loved this glorious little walk.

To find the footpath : take the small road to the left of the monastery, which quickly leads onto a grassy trail and then a footbridge crossing the water. Once over the bridge, a safe, dedicated footpath follows the railway tracks. After crossing, Camino arrows will guide you back to the main route; I did also check on my Wise Pilgrim map the night before to be clear where we had to rejoin but it was never a problem.

If you’ve stayed overnight in Neda or you’re tackling the full stage from Ferrol to Pontedeume, simply follow the clearly marked path out of Neda and onwards.

As you leave Neda, you’ll cross a busy road before climbing up above the town, rewarding you with fantastic views of the estuary but prepare yourself for a few hills from here! But remember to look back as the views are pretty wonderful too!

Fene (4.6 km)

Regardless of your earlier choices, all paths on the Camino Ingles lead to Fene; a reasonable size town with necessary services.

We arrived in the morning and stopped at the first café; Café Lembranza. I think everyone had the same idea as it was full with fellow pilgrims. If you’d prefer a quieter coffee, simply follow the arrows a little further and you’ll find an alternative but we loved the buzz here.

If you have time to linger, you could visit the rather unique Humor Museum, home to around 300 original works by Galician and international cartoonists. And street art lovers might appreciate a slight detour to see the mural Charanguista Andino by Chilean artist Cristobal Persona, awarded the Best Mural in the World in 2024.  We didn’t find it but there was other jolly art along the route to keep us happy.  

If you’re looking for another option to break this stage, you could also spend the night in Fene:

O Pereiro (4 km)

About a kilometre beyond Fene, you’ll pass a pilgrim fountain; perfect for a quick photo and for refilling your water, especially as services are limited until Pontedeume.

From here, prepare yourself for a few kilometres of uphill; walking poles will be helpful here. Thankfully, the route also leaves the tarmac and continues along forest trails for a while.  And if you’re feeling puffed, don’t forget to pause, catch your breath, and enjoy the views looking back at how far you’ve come.

In O Pereiro, there is a small café if you need a break. You’ll have to step just a few metres off the marked path.  Café Bar El Llano, less than a minute off the trail on the main road, provided a welcome refreshment stop and cold drinks!

Complimentary Route Options (1.3 km)

Continuing downhill, you’re back on quiet country roads and the coastal views begin to show themselves as you approach Cabanas.

Onwards through green Galicia, you’ll soon reach a point marked by two granite Camino markers, indicating a choice of paths. The alternative route seems designed to avoid crossing the busy N-651 road, but we found the road-crossing straightforward. Since this variant adds an extra 1.2 km and additional elevation, we chose to stick with the main Camino arrows.

Along this stretch, you’ll also come across a lovely little stall selling colourful shells; a perfect opportunity to find a Camino souvenir.

Playa Magdalena At Cabanas (2.8 km)

From here, it’s all downhill to Pontedeume; apart from just a couple of small hills along the way. You’ll leave rural Galicia and walk back to the coast and the outskirts of Cabanas.

My Camino buddy mentioned an ‘old’ Ingles route, which bypasses the centre of Cabanas and leads directly to the start of the fabulous Playa Magdalena beach. While I completely agree the beach is not to be missed, I’m not familiar with the old route. Since I was walking with my sister and didn’t want to get us lost on her first Camino, we found Playa Magdalena another way.

We followed the arrows through a series of ups and downs into Cabanas but stopped before the bridge to Pontedeume. You’ll see road signs pointing to Magdalena beach. Stop following the Camino arrows when you see these and just head to the beach!

Alternatively, use google maps to lead you to the beach sooner; either way don’t miss this beach. You’ll not regret adding 600 metres or so to your walk and the beach is perfect for paddling or even a quick swim!

Pontedeume (1.2 km)

If you can pull yourself away from Magdalena Beach, simply follow the sand until you reach a footpath that takes you directly to the historic Pont de Pedra, the long bridge crossing the estuary into Pontedeume.

Crossing this bridge took us longer than expected; we couldn’t resist pausing for many photos! The changing tides offered wonderful views, and as two Devon girls, it reminded us of the coastal villages back home. If someone had said we were in Cornwall, we’d have believed it.

Reaching the other side of the bridge, you’ll find a few riverside cafés, which were full to bursting when we arrived. Instead of stopping, we followed the arrows into the old town to find our accommodation.

What a surprise Pontedeume turned out to be! I wasn’t expecting it to be so picturesque, with arched walkways and lively little squares. We eventually found a table at A Cociña, in the beautiful Praza Real, and enjoyed tapas, beers, and the company of fellow pilgrims; a perfect end to a fabulous day’s walk.

Where to Stay in Pontedeume

We opted to stay in a hotel but there is a host of accommodation. There are two albergues but one doesn’t get good reviews so I recommend staying in Albergue Rio Eume; I’ve not stayed but do have personal recommendations that it’s wonderful. 

What To See And Do In Pontedeume

Pontedeume’s history dates back well before its official founding in 1270. Prehistoric settlements have left behind megalithic structures and petroglyphs, while Celtic tribes built fortified hilltop settlements called castros, some of which still dot the surrounding landscape.

The Romans connected this region to their vast road network, reinforcing its strategic significance. Viking raids during the 9th and 10th centuries adding another layer of history, with Norse invaders navigating Galician rivers like the Eume, leaving a lasting impression in local legends.

Pontedeume flourished in medieval times, becoming an essential stopover for pilgrims heading to Santiago. Its historical treasures, from the medieval Andrade Tower to the Church of Santiago, reflect centuries of rich heritage, making this small town a remarkable highlight on the Camino Inglés.

1. Puente de Pontedeume

This historic bridge, which you cross as you enter, spans the Eume River, serving as a vital connection since medieval times. Originally constructed in the 14th century by Fernán Pérez de Andrade, it once boasted 79 arches and was approximately 850 metres long. Over time, modifications have reduced its size, but it remains a testament to medieval engineering.

2. Torreón dos Andrade

Built in the 14th century, the Torreón dos Andrade is a medieval tower that formed part of the town’s defensive structures. Today, it houses a museum showcasing local history. Climbing to the top will reward you with views of Pontedeume.

3. Iglesia de Santiago

In the heart of the old town, you’ll find the Iglesia de Santiago. The original structure was commissioned in 1538. The church features a basilica layout with three naves, a choir at the rear, and a non-projecting transept.

4. Mercado Municipal de Pontedeume

Located at Praza do Conde, the municipal market operates during the mornings from Monday to Saturday. If you love exploring local fresh produce drop in before starting your walk to Betanzos; especially if you’re breaking the day two at Mino!  

5. Medieval Tales

Pontedeume has long been a waypoint for pilgrims journeying to Santiago de Compostela. While specific medieval tales are scarce, the town’s historical significance is evident in its architecture and longstanding traditions. If you’re lucky enough to be walking at the very end of June you might get to experience the annual Feirón Medieval dos Andrade which recreates medieval scenes across the town.

Recommended Apps, Books & Websites for the Camino Ingles

If you’re walking from Ferrol to Santiago de Compostela then there are apps, guidebooks, and websites which will be invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

Final Thoughts on the Camino Ingles between Ferrol And Pontedeume

The full stage between Ferrol and Pontedeume is lengthy, offering numerous route variations, a few distractions, a significant hill and plenty of paved trails. Hopefully, I’ve convinced you to split this stage in half; it really does deserves two days. Consider spending two nights in Ferrol or booking a night in Neda.

I’d read mixed reviews about this Camino Ingles before walking it myself and was pleasantly surprised by its beauty. Yes, there’s tarmac, and yes, some sections are urban; but that’s just part of the Camino.

The English Way impressed me with its historic churches, city parks, beautiful waterside paths, spectacular beaches, and picturesque old streets in towns like Neda and Pontedeume. Take your time on this stage; pause frequently, savour more than a few Café con Leches, and enjoy conversations with fellow pilgrims.

A final word on Pontedeume: it’s beautiful. Splitting this stage gives you both the time and energy to fully explore and appreciate this delightful seaside gem. And if I’ve convinced you on this stage, wait till I tell you about the trail to Betanzos!

Are You Planning to Walk the Camino Inglés? Here’s Your Stage-by-Stage Guide

This post is part of my comprehensive Camino Inglés series, covering everything you need from the starting point in Ferrol to your arrival at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

Every post includes detailed tips, route options, practical advice and accommodation options.  And if you’d like more then join my private Walking The Camino Facebook group.