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Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma : Practical Walking Guide for Stage 3 Of The Camino Ingles

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Before walking Stage 3 from Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma, I expected four things:

Most guidebooks for the Camino Ingles list this stage as 24 kilometres, but we found it closer to 25 kilometres. Expecting a tough walk, we set off early, took a picnic and braced ourselves for the challenge.

Surprisingly, despite terrible weather, the stage wasn’t as difficult as we anticipated, certainly in comparison to some days on the Camino Frances. I really enjoyed today but that said, I’d love to walk it again under a sunny sky.

The Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma stage isn’t easy, it is longer and there are hills and more road walking. But it is a rewarding walk with glorious Galician landscapes, rich history, and a few really great stopping points. And if you’d prefer a more leisurely pace, there are a couple of ways to break this stage.

Walking the Camino Ingles from Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma

Many pilgrims consider this stage one of the more challenging days on the Camino Ingles due to the distance, elevation, and historically limited services. Personally, I found yesterday’s stage from Pontedeume to Betanzos harder, but nonetheless, today still has its challenges.

In recent years, the Camino Ingles has been redirected and improved, softening some of the toughest elevation gains. New services have also appeared, making the day even more manageable (we actually regretted bringing a picnic, as there’s a fantastic lunch stop). Despite the awful weather, we were pleasantly surprised by how much we enjoyed this stage.

If you’d prefer a shorter day, you can stop at Presedo or even Beche Lake; read on to find out how.

For us, our day ended at Hospital de Bruma, a village with a long Camino history. A pilgrim hostel has stood here since 1175, though the original shelter is long gone. Plan for the challenges, come prepared and just enjoy the walk.

Take Two Days And Break The Stage At Presedo          

I know that I’m comfortable walking 25 kilometres in a day, and I wouldn’t plan to break this stage on my next Camino Ingles. But for some, it’s a long stretch and if you’re like Gerry, you’ll prefer to meander.

Luckily, there are options. The most natural halfway point between Betanzos and Bruma is Presedo. So, if you’re in Gerry’s camp, you can linger over breakfast and take your time leaving Betanzos; which remains one of my favourite towns on the Camino Ingles.

Options for Breaking Stage 3 include :

Keep reading, and I’ll show you exactly where and how to take these options.

Towns and Villages Between Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma

Guidebooks often list distances between the start and end of a town or village, which can be misleading if it’s a bigger town. I have no scientific evidence for this, but it might explain why today’s stage is often listed as 24 kilometres, when we tracked it at over 25 kilometres.

That said, what’s an extra 15 minutes when you’re on the Camino? And I felt today those kilometres were wonderful.

Do have breakfast before setting off, it’ll be a while before your first coffee stop. However, there are two wonderful places to pause, perfectly placed for lunch and a pick-me-up near the end of the day.

Top Tip : Do remember that you need to collect at least two sellos every day for your credential (pilgrim passport). Make sure you pause along the way when possible to collect your stamps!

Leaving Betanzos

Leaving Betanzos the route is fairly well-marked, with brass plates on the ground and plenty of yellow arrows. Pick up the arrows in the main square in the old town, pass the tourist office and follow the arrows across an old bridge that leads you out of town.

I will say that the first 3 kilometres are uphill. It’s a steady climb, but not as bad as the hill leaving Pontedeume. But it will be enough to get you puffing!

And one last reminder; have breakfast before leaving! And carry water and a snack, as it will be a some kilometres before you find any services.

The End of the First Hill (3 km)

The hill out of Betanzos may not be as steep as some that you’ve already climbed but it does go on and on and will certainly get your blood pumping.  You’ll know that you’re on the hill when you look up and see the huge painting of Fatima on the wall as you leave town.

Thankfully around the three kilometre mark you reach the top (of this hill).  The following kilometres are along country lanes and forest trails, downhill in part to boot. It’s a pleasant walk, still a lot of tarmac but the kilometres quickly fell away for us; this was also before the rain started!

Church of St Esteban de Cos (7.9 km)

We stopped for a quick rest at St. Esteban Church. There are no formal seats here, but like many pilgrims, we perched on the stone wall; most of us happy to find a spot to pause and have a rest!  This is where a little snack comes in very handy!

Top Tip : There are bins here, so please leave no trace and dispose of any trash properly.

I tried to uncover some history about the church, but it was fruitless. The only thing I found was that in 2022, this tiny hamlet had just 92 residents, but little mention of the church itself.

The Old Or The New Route?

Leaving Cos, you’ll soon face a choice.  This isn’t a camino variant but an option to divert to the older Camino Ingles. On our last walk, we missed the turn for the old route, and while those who took it said it was scenic, I feel that for most pilgrims, it’s best to follow the arrows.

The Camino Inglés has been re-routed in recent years, sparking debate. Some believe not all of the changes were for the better and this is one of those spots.

Following the arrows, you’ll return to the DP-0105. Shortly after, you’ll see a right-hand turn. A yellow arrow at the junction suggests that you continue straight, but if you want to take the old route to Presedo, this is where you turn.

Why Take The Old Route?

However, taking this path does mean skipping the first bar; Bar Carabel.  This is right on the road that you’re following but having said that, we had a rest at the church.  And we knew that we were heading to Presedo and the very fabulous Mesón Museo. (Bar Julia, which was on the old route, closed in 2023.)

It is Important to remember that the old route is no longer marked, so if you take it, you’ll need to check GPS or Google Maps to stay on track.

Presedo and Bar Meson Museo (5 km)

Presedo is one point today where you can end your stage. If you took the old route out of Cos and started in the old town of Betanzos, you’ll have walked about 13 kilometres by the time you reach Bar Meson Museo.

However, whatever you do, make sure you stop here! This excellent restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy a fabulous lunch, whether you’re continuing on, staying in Presedo, or taking a taxi to your final stop.

Why You Shouldn’t Miss Mesón Museo :

I cannot tell you how sad we were to have already eaten most of our picnic at the church in Cos. Had I known, I would have happily waited to enjoy their glorious offerings!

Top Tip: If you plan to stay at the Presedo Pilgrim Albergue, go there first before stopping for lunch.  The albergue only has 14 beds and does not accept reservations, so your first stop should be securing your bed before heading to Mesón Museo!

Where To Stay in Presedo

If you’re looking for a bunk bed, the municipal albergue has good reviews. However, with only 14 beds and limited facilities, a bunk is not guaranteed. That said, it’s a popular place to stop, and Bar Mesón Museo is just a short walk away for dinner and breakfast.

If you’d prefer to secure your bed in advance and want a private room, here are a few great alternatives :

Top Tip : Both of these hotel options will need transport but if you stop for lunch at Meson Museo, a taxi can be easily arranged.

Embalse de Beche (4.6 km)

The second elevation of the day begins at Presedo. While it looks steep on paper, it’s spread over a longer distance, making it more gradual. I’m a tortoise on the hills, but I never felt this climb was particularly challenging; but it is a hill and a long one!

You’ll follow the road for a while, walking through Leiro with the picturesque 18th century Iglesia de Santa Eulalia de Leiro. Thankfully you’ll also get off the road for a short while. The Camino Ingles, for all it’s glory, does includes a fair amount of road walking, so it’s always a joy to step onto softer ground.

We were also pleasantly surprised to find services at Embalse de Beche, making it an excellent option to break your stage. The site has an EcoCamp, a restaurant, and a small lake, along with picnic tables and loos; so even if you’re not staying overnight, it’s a great place for a rest stop.

As Travesas and Bar Avelina (5.3 km)

From Embalse de Beche, we enjoyed a mix of forest trails and a little more road walking, with the hill continuing a bit longer than we’d hoped! We walked part of this trail in heavy rain and the rest under a dark sky, so reaching As Travesas felt like a victory!

At around the 22-kilometre mark, we came across a second route variant, leading away from the main road. Ignore this option. Keep following the yellow arrows to As Travesas because you seriously don’t want to miss the bar.

Casa Avelina sits on the right-hand side of the road, just after the Camino Inglés from A Coruña merges with the trail from Ferrol. It’s right on the Camino, you’ll walk right by the door, and trust me, stop.

Bar Avelina is a gem and a bit of an icon on the trail.  They serve excellent food and drinks, and it honestly feels like everyone pauses here. When we arrived, it felt like a bit of a pilgrim party! I’ve also read that if Avelina has time she’ll offer you a little tour of the nearby Capela de San Roque. 

Top Tip : If you plan to spend the night off the trail at the hotels near Meson do Vente, this would be a good place to arrange for a taxi.

Hospital de Bruma (2.3 km)

From Bar Avelina, we followed the arrows, which led us off the main road, onto a track, and then along a small country lane into the village. There’s a busy road crossing from the bar, so take care as you go.

We walked the full stage from Betanzos and despite the heavy downpours, it was a lovely day and a great walk. I know some folks find this day tougher, but maybe we were too distracted by the rain to notice! That’s not to say we weren’t relieved to reach Hospital de Bruma, and I was very glad I’d booked our beds in advance.

Hospital de Bruma exists because of the medieval pilgrim hospital, established around 1140 and officially annexed to the Cathedral of Santiago in 1175.

The original complex included a hospital and an adjacent chapel, both of which have since disappeared. Few records remain about its early days, but it was likely managed by religious orders or clergy connected to the Cathedral of Santiago.

Then, as now, its purpose was to provide care and shelter to pilgrims walking to Santiago de Compostela, a tradition that continues today with a more modern pilgrim albergue.

Where To Stay In Hospital De Bruma

There are very few services in Hospital De Bruma and limited accommodation. There are perhaps less than 60 beds and in peak season they do fill quickly.  We prebooked our beds in Albergue San Lorenzo but many people book private rooms at the nearby village of Meson do Vente. It’s a good choice and it’s a simple walk back to the Camino the following morning.

O Meson de Vento is a great alternative, especially if you’re walking a shorter stage, although not so popular if you’ve walked from Betanzos. Some pilgrims were taking a taxi from the bar in Hospital de Bruma, or alternatively you can order a taxi in Bar Avelina (and return the following morning).

Services between Betanzos and Hospital de Bruma

We were told not to expect services along the stage. Indeed we left town with drinks and a picnic which we carried and didn’t eat.  Whilst there are limited services there are a few excellent stops.

Top Tip : Casa Grana restaurant closes at 8pm so be sure to arrive in plenty of time if you wish to eat. And whilst you’re there, take a look at the Hermitage of San Lorenzo.  This small Gothic chapel dates from the 16th century and has welcomed thousands of pilgrims over the centuries.

Recommended Apps, Books & Websites for the Camino Ingles

If you’re walking from Ferrol to Santiago de Compostela then there are apps, guidebooks, and websites which will be invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

Final Thoughts on Stage Three Between Betanzos And Hospital de Bruma

We had expected this stage to be difficult. While it’s certainly not easy, it wasn’t as hard as we anticipated, and we genuinely enjoyed the walk.  There’s a lot to love; the forest trails, the views, and those fantastic bars along the way.

There’s still a fair amount of road walking, but that’s true of the Camino Inglés. If anything, it makes you appreciate the forest trails even more.

If you’d like to take your time over this stage, you can break the day :

I was worried that leaving the coast behind would make this stage feel underwhelming, but I needn’t have been. Galicia is stunning, and the walk from Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma is truly wonderful.

You’ll see from my photos that we didn’t have the best weather, but we still had a glorious walk and I’m looking forward to my return visit!

Are You Planning to Walk the Camino Inglés? Here’s Your Stage-by-Stage Guide

This post is part of my comprehensive Camino Inglés series, covering everything you need from the starting point in Ferrol to your arrival at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

Every post includes detailed tips, route options, practical advice and accommodation options.  And if you’d like more then join my private Walking The Camino Facebook group.