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Pontedeume To Betanzos : Practical Walking Guide for Stage 2 Of The Camino Ingles

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On paper, today’s stage from Pontedeume to Betanzos should be straightforward; but appearances can be deceiving. Like many pilgrims, I was caught off guard by the hills. Initially, I only planned to split the first stage, but ended up wishing we’d divided this one too.

I know the Camino Ingles is the shortest route to Santiago, but who says you can’t take your time? Splitting the day not only softens the climbs but lets you discover hidden gems along the way; like the stunning beach at Mino, one of Galicia’s finest, and missed if you’re just following arrows.

And Betanzos? More on that little later but there’s so much to explore; why rush?

If you’re planning your first Camino, or even your fifth, consider taking two days for this stage. Keep reading, and I’ll show you how to break the stage comfortably, where to stay, the best rest stops, and tips drawn from my decade of walking Caminos.

Walking the Camino Ingles from Pontedeume To Betanzos

There’s a lot to love about this stage. Expect beautiful views, a few very nice cafés perfectly placed for a rest stop, a couple of quirky spots, plenty of history, and a few stretches of stunning coastline. But be prepared, there are some challenging hills too.

Most guides list today as around 20 kilometres; we found it closer to 22, with nearly 600 metres of elevation gain and loss. It’s the climbing, and the tarmac, that can tire your legs.

Whilst we loved today, my sister found this stretch tough as her introduction to the Camino. But don’t worry, there are ways to make it more manageable. Break this stage into two shorter walks if you have the time. But even if you’re walking through, book accommodation in Betanzos, bring hiking poles to help the climbs, and take a couple of good breaks.

Services today are limited, but the cafés are perfectly placed when you need them most. Pace yourself and enjoy the journey; it’s a rewarding day.

How To Break Stage 2 From Pontedeume Over Two Days

I know I’ve mentioned this already but this stage does have it’s challenges. A few steep hills and equally tough descents; tiring and hard on the knees for even the most seasoned walkers. (Don’t forget the walking poles!)

But hills aside, there’s another reason for breaking the stage; exploring! On my last Camino, my biggest regret was not having enough time to fully enjoy places like Mino.  It’s easy to get carried aware with distance but I’ve learned over the years that meandering is the best way to walk a Camino.

My recommended stage breaks are:

This shorter split is perfect, if like me you enjoy lingering in beautiful places. The official Camino route bypasses Mino’s beaches entirely, and splitting your journey has other advantages:

Towns and Villages Between Pontedeume To Betanzos

If you’re walking the full stage from Pontedeume to Betanzos, Mino is the ideal halfway point to pause for lunch and enjoy a well-earned rest. Before reaching Mino, there’s a café at around the 8-kilometre mark, but overall, services are sparse along this route.

Because of this, I’d definitely suggest starting your day with a good breakfast in Pontedeume; we stayed at Hotel Albatros, whose café offers a great pilgrim breakfast.

Carry plenty of water, pack a few snacks, and bring hiking poles to help with the hills. With a little preparation, this stage is a delightful walk filled with plenty of little discoveries along the way.

Leaving Pontedeume

You’ll likely begin your day in the heart of Pontedeume’s old town, close to the river. Do have breakfast before setting off; your next coffee stop is a fair distance away. And do take the steps up to the Church of Santiago; you walk by the door almost as you leave town.

The path is clearly marked, but brace yourself for a steep climb. The first two kilometres rise continuously first through residential streets, where locals will be starting their day, so be mindful of traffic and stick to pavements.

As around the 1.4-kilometre mark look out for a grain store which features a rather happy painted Mickey Mouse; a reassuring sign you’re more than halfway to the top!

Take your time, use your hiking poles, and pace yourself. The good news is that the views are fabulous, so turn around and soak up the glory that is Galicia!  And more good news, you’ll come off the road and walk through wonderful forest trails for a few kilometres. 

Campo De Golf (3 km)

After the climb from Pontedeume, you’ll enjoy easier walking along quiet country roads, which give way to forest trails. In spring, we were greeted by hedgerows awash with froths of white flowers amongst the green of Galician fields.

Although there are no services, keep an eye out for a donativo stall selling Camino souvenirs; I’m not sure they were handmade in Galicia but who can resist a stall in the forest?

Shortly after you’ll walk beside the Campo de Golf. There is a cafe here, but closed when we waked, but the easy trail makes for a lovely walk, especially in the company of our new pilgrim friends.

Waking on, through tiny hamlets, and country roads, passing Viadeiro, before finally reaching the welcoming hamlet of A Ponte Baxoi and hooray; coffee!

A Ponte Baxoi (3.4 km)

It started to rain as we reach Ultreia et Suseia and oh my, the cafe was a welcome sight on a chilly April morning. With plenty of covered seating from rain or sun, we were happy to see our pilgrim friends already there enjoying their coffee.

We learned that the owner converted this café from her father’s old farm, creating a magical space for pilgrims. We also learned that it’s her face that you’ll see painted on a wall as you enter Miño; look out for it as you walk into the town!

We ordered coffee, and I found gluten-free Tarta de Santiago. Then we sat under cover, loving the rest and waiting for the storm to pass.

Half a kilometre after leaving the café, you’ll cross the medieval bridge over the River Baxoi; it’s a pretty spot, and an ancient bridge that is easily missed if you hurry by.

Mino (2.4 km)

As you approach Miño, the Camino briefly navigates around busy roads, but the route is well-marked and never feels difficult to follow.

The yellow arrows will guide you into the town center, but they won’t take you to the beaches. If you’re staying at the Pilgrim Albergue, keep an eye out for signage directing you away from the Camino; it’s clearly marked.

If you’d like to visit the beaches, you’ll need to head away from the Camino. A good first stop is the Tourist Office, where you can also find a stamp for your sello, before heading to the coastline. Miño has two big beaches: Playa A Ribeira, the smaller, quieter one, and Playa Grande, the town’s main beach. If you’re looking for Miño’s giant town letters, you’ll find them across from Restaurante O Cancelo on Rua Cobo, overlooking Playa A Ribeira.

Miño is a good size town with all the services, and plenty of restaurants. The first time I walked this stage, I skipped the beaches but we did find a great little bar along the route for coffee and a snack. If you’re not staying overnight in Mino, follow the arrows out of town toward Miño’s colourful Mirador.

Where To Stay in Mino

Miño is a great option for an overnight stay, and in hindsight, I wish we had broken this stage here instead of pushing on to Betanzos. Thankfully, Miño offers plenty of accommodation options, as it’s a popular holiday destination. You’ll find a mix of hotels, apartments, and a pilgrim albergue.

The Xunta-run Albergue de Peregrinos de Mino is a highly rated option for budget-conscious pilgrims. It’s small, doesn’t accept reservations or bag transfers, but is open year-round and offers fabulous views. Keep in mind that Xunta albergues don’t provide blankets, and while the kitchens are often well-equipped, they lack pots, pans, and utensils—so plan accordingly!

Top Tip : If you’re staying overnight, Miño has some great restaurants, especially if you love seafood. But if seafood isn’t your thing, one of the best spots in town is Pizza Mino and they offer gluten-free pizza, though I’d recommend calling ahead to confirm availability.

Mirador de Miño (1.1 km)

As you leave Miño, the arrows take you through the town and onward to the Mirador and the Biosfera de Mino.

Before crossing the railway bridge, you’ll notice a brightly coloured platform known as the Mirador de Miño. It’s painted all the colours of the rainbow and offers panoramic views of the estuary.  

Reserva de la Biosfera Terras do Miño (0.8 km)

After crossing the railway, the path takes you past a few scattered houses before leading into a sandy nature reserve where the Lambre River meets the estuary at Praia da Alameda.

This area is part of the Terras do Miño Biosphere Reserve, designated by UNESCO in 2002. The reserve encompasses a vast expanse of natural habitats, including wetlands, forests, and river systems.

Take some time to explore the boardwalks on the sand, you can retrace your steps or walk along the along the water’s edge, as you’ll eventually rejoin the Camino at Ponte de Porco.

Ponte de Porco (1.1 km)

The name Ponte de Porco, literally translates as Pig Bridge. The name originates from a story of unrequited love and a formidable wild boar. According to local lore, a young man named Roxín Roxal fell deeply in love with Tareixa, the daughter of a powerful noble. Due to their differing social statuses, their love was forbidden, and Roxín was banished.

Subsequently, a menacing wild boar began terrorizing the region and during a hunt, Tareixa was tragically killed by the beast near the bridge. Later, the boar was found dead with a golden dagger through his heart, believed to have been delivered by Roxín, as he avenged his sweet-hearts death.

Et Voila, from that time, the bridge is known as Ponte de Porco.

And if that’s not enough history, in December 1779, John Adams, who would later become the second President of the United States, passed through this area. After his ship, the Sensible, encountered leaks. Adams and his entourage landed at Ferrol and journeyed overland to Paris. apparently, pausing near the bridge!

Today there is very little here. We’d read there was a bar but all was closed during our April visit, so stock up in Mino and don’t rely on services. The arrows however, continue along country roads, which in spring are still awash with wildflowers and blossoms.

Pilgrim’s Rest Area (4.7 km)

Crossing the Ponte Medieval do Lambre, a bridge long associated with the Camino Inglés, marks the end of the flat terrain. From here on, expect hills and plenty of them. You’ll still be walking along quiet country roads, often rewarded with stunning estuary views, but the path between Lambre and Betanzos is a steady ups and a big down.

We didn’t find any services open, but we did find a bus stop, and if you’ve read our older Camino blogs, you’ll know that Gerry LOVES a bus stop for a quick break! Luckily, we had snacks from Miño and had plenty of water, which kept us fueled for the next climb.

At the top of the hill, just before Font de Gas, you’ll find a glorious little pilgrim donativo. This friend of pilgrims has created a rest area, with seating, tables and shade and a few picnic boxes offering cold drinks and snacks.  It’s a little oasis.  Do stop. Do pay generously for the kindness and don’t forget your Sello.

Igrexa de San Martiño de Tiobre (2.2 km)

Leaving the donative, you’ll walk on and shortly reach Font de Gas, with as you would imagine, a drinking fountain and more importantly this is almost at the point where the uphill stops. The name Font de Gas translates as Gas Fountain and the exact origin of this name or the fountains remains unclear. But is has served as a welcome rest stop for travellers and pilgrims alike.

If you’re really lucky you maybe greeted on the road by a very pilgrim friendly white horse. Our pause at the bus stop meant we missed him by a few minutes but our companions get to say hello!

A little further you’ll find your way to the 12^th century Romanesque church of Igrexa de San Martiño de Tiobre (sadly locked when we walked by) but worth exploring as it has a huge history! Perched on a hill overlooking Betanzos, the Igrexa de San Martiño de Tiobre sits on land that has been a sacred and strategic site for centuries.

Long before the church stood here, this hill was home to a castro, a fortified Iron Age settlement typical of Galicia, and dating back as early as the 9th century BCE. And whilst the current church is Romanesque from the 12th century, historical records suggest a much older place of worship existed here long before.

Whatever the origins, it’s clear that pilgrims walking the Camino Inglés in the middle ages would have certainly passed by this church en route to Santiago de Compostela.

Betanzos (2.3 km)

As you continue walking and enjoying the wonderful views, you’ll soon realise that the only way now to Betanzos is down. And as you reach the edge of the the town, you’ll pass the Santuario de Nosa Señora do Camiño, another important historical landmark.

While the church we see today dates to the 16th century, it was built over an earlier hermitage and pilgrim hospital. This site, once run by the Hospitallers of the Sancti Spiritus, provided weary pilgrims with shelter, food, and medical care. Legends tell of Marian apparitions, miraculous statues, and a sacred fountain, which contributed to the sanctuary’s continued significance.

From the church, it’s just one kilometre into the medieval heart of Betanzos, but be warned, the descent is steep and cobbled. Walking poles (lengthened) will give welcome support for tired knees. And they’ll help you on the last hill into the old town.

Before my Camino Ingles, I did very little research, partly due to conflicting reports that this route was less interesting than others. However, had I known better, I would have allowed far more time to explore Betanzos; it’s a little gem of a town.

Betanzos is renowned as one of the prettiest and oldest towns in Galicia, with a rich history and beautifully preserved medieval centre. If ever there was a reason to break stage two at Miño, having extra time to explore Betanzos should be it!

We arrived in Betanzos around 3:30 pm, hoping to find a late lunch, but quickly discovered that most restaurants were already closed or closing. Thankfully, we found a small café where the staff took pity on us and rustled up omelette and chips; a simple but much appreciated meal! This early closing time catches out a lot of pilgrims, so plan accordingly.

Thankfully, Betanzos offers all services, including a few good supermarkets; perfect if you need supplies. But whatever you do, spend some time in the cafe-lined square and try a slice of the town’s own version of the Tortila Patata (p.s. I think I prefer the traditional recipe with onions)

Where to Stay in Betanzos

For pilgrims stopping in Betanzos, there are several great accommodation options, whether you prefer an albergue, apartment, or hotel.

What to See in Betanzos

Betanzos boasts a history that predates the Romans. According to legend, the town was founded by the Celtic leader Breogán, and archaeological evidence suggests primitive settlements in the area. The original town stood in what is now San Martiño de Tiobre; you passed this on the way in! This early site, known as Betanzos O Vello (Old Betanzos), was likely part of the pre-Roman Celtic Castro culture, showing that this was a thriving community long before Roman occupation.

During the Roman era, Betanzos was referred to as Flavium Brigantium, though the extent of Roman influence here remains debated. The town’s importance grew significantly in medieval times, and by 1465, under King Henry IV, Betanzos was granted city status and became one of the seven provincial capitals of the ancient Kingdom of Galicia.

In the Middle Ages, Betanzos was home to a pilgrim hospital, run by the Hospitallers of the Sancti Spiritus, offering food, shelter, and medical care to weary travellers. Today, the town is home to several beautiful churches, a well-preserved medieval centre, and rich local traditions.  In short, it’s well worth taking the time to explore. A few things to consider include :

And don’t forget to try Local Tortilla Española; Betanzos is renowned for its unique take on this classic dish. 

Recommended Apps, Books & Websites for the Camino Ingles

If you’re walking from Ferrol to Santiago de Compostela then there are apps, guidebooks, and websites which will be invaluable. Be sure to download or purchase them before leaving home:

Final Thoughts on Stage Two Between Pontedeume to Betanzos

We definitely enjoyed our fair share of April showers on our last walk, but even the rain couldn’t dampen my spirits for this wonderful little Camino. The Camino Inglés often gets bad press, but Stage 2 from Pontedeume to Betanzos is here to prove them wrong!

For starters, you begin in the glorious seaside town of Pontedeume; worth a visit in its own right. Then, you meander through glorious Galicia, passing Miño’s fabulous beaches before reaching one of Galicia’s most historic towns. Along the way, you’ll encounter ancient churches, a UNESCO-listed biosphere, and a few excellent cafés and restaurants, not to mention the rolling landscapes that make this route so special.

Yes, there’s tarmac. And oh my, there are hills; I’m not going to sugar-coat them! But there’s also so much more. If you have time, consider splitting this stage, give yourself the time to visit all the hidden treasures along the way.

I absolutely loved this day, and I can’t wait to return. Just because the Camino Ingles is the shortest route to Santiago de Compostela, doesn’t mean you have to rush it. Take your time, explore every corner and who knows; maybe the white horse will come to see you on your travels?

Are You Planning to Walk the Camino Inglés? Here’s Your Stage-by-Stage Guide

This post is part of my comprehensive Camino Inglés series, covering everything you need from the starting point in Ferrol to your arrival at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

Every post includes detailed tips, route options, practical advice and accommodation options.  And if you’d like more then join my private Walking The Camino Facebook group.