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Belorado To San Juan De Ortega : Step By Step Guide To Stage 11 Of The Camino Frances

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Today you’ll face your longest walk without services since the Pyrenees. Between Belorado to San Juan de Ortega, the route takes you through 12 kilometres of the forests of the Montes de Oca.

Leaving Belorado, you’ll start with a fairly easy walk but after Villafranca de Montes de Oca, the path becomes more challenging, climbing up into the forested hills before descending into the tiny hamlet of San Juan de Ortega.

Read on and I’ll share tips on where to pause, where to find that early morning coffee, and where you can spend the night. I’ll also point out historical sites, terrain advice, and help you prepare for that forest section.

Walking The Camino Francés From Belorado To San Juan De Ortega

Stage 11 is another great day on the Camino Frances. The 24.5 kilometre stage from Belorado to San Juan de Ortega is characterised by a mixture of rolling countryside, peaceful forests, and a handful of pretty villages. And a hill.

In the Middle Ages, the Montes de Oca were infamous for bandits but today, thankfully, they offer a more tranquil escape. Once in the forest proper, the trail levels out, and you can lose yourself in your thoughts.

With no services after Villafranca, this stage does requires a little preparation.  And for me at least, it marked a transition from the rolling hills we’ve seen, into the land of Burgos, and the land of the high Meseta.

Towns And Villages Between Belorado And San Juan De Ortega

Like yesterday, there are several small villages along today’s stage, each with their own slice of history. However, as we discovered in late October, not all bars or cafes are open year-round, so if you find an open bar, I’d recommend you take the opportunity to pause!

Belorado

If your accommodation doesn’t offer breakfast, head to the main plaza; you’ll usually find somewhere open. If you’re staying at Hostel B, they always offer breakfast, including gluten-free options.

The Camino winds through residential streets before leading you out into the countryside. As you walk, keep an eye on both the pavement and the walls around you for some of Belorado’s quirky trail markers and street art.

Leaving town you cross the River Tirón, with ancient remnants of an old mill race and mill. This area, known as Parque Vivero, offers picnic benches; ideal for those walking between stages and looking for a picnic spot.

Shortly after the bridge, you’ll pass a Repsol Petrol garage with a small shop. If you need a snack or water, this is a convenient stop.

From here, the trail is easy and comfortable, leading you gently onward to Tosantos.

Tosantos (5.1 kms)

Tosantos is another tiny village, typical of the region and steeped in history. Records show it existed as far back as the late 10th century. In 1414, it was remarkably purchased by Belorado, possibly as part of an effort to expand territory and influence. Today however, Tosantos is an independent municipality that quietly welcomes pilgrims.

For those considering a shorter stage, Tosantos offers two small albergues:

If you’re looking to stop for a break, there are two bars here; El Castaño and the bar at Albergue Los Arancones. Reviews suggest that the albergue has better options for pilgrims. Both were closed when I last walked through so if you’re visiting during colder months be prepared for that disappointment!

If you’re willing to make a slight detour, the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Peña, a hermitage carved into the rock above the village, is worth seeing. Legend has it that in 712, an image of baby Jesus was hidden here for safekeeping; a story that has since been disproven.  Another tale speaks of La Hermita, a hermit who lived in the caves and tended to passing pilgrims.

Whether these are rooted in fact or local lore, the hermitage’s 12th-century origins and unique construction make it worth the 500-metre detour. Even if the hermitage is locked, the views from the site are wonderful.

Leaving Tosantos, you’ll quickly find yourself back on the trail, enjoying a pleasant and easy walk to the next village, Villambistia.

Villambistia (1.8 kms)

Another sleepy medieval village, offering a couple of accommodation options. Look to your left as you pass through the village to find Casa de los Deseos, a small hotel that’s ideal if you’re seeking private, ensuite rooms.

Even on our misty late October morning, we managed to find hot coffee and toast; gluten free toast to boot! The hotel is open from 1^st March to 31^st October, making it a welcome stop for a late autumn walk!  

If you prefer traditional pilgrim bunk beds, Albergue de Peregrinos San Roque provides a simple, budget-friendly options

As you leave the village, you’ll pass the ancient little Church of San Esteban. It was here in 2014, whilst taking a photo of the church, that two rather dapper-looking elderly gentlemen posed for me.  It’s a simple little Camino memory but the photo always makes me smile.

Villambistia is also home to another local legend. According to the Tradición de Villambistia, a weary and overheated pilgrim once submerged his head in the cool waters of the village fountain and was instantly rejuvenated, gaining strength to walk to Santiago.

While I can’t vouch for the miracle, I often place my hat under cool fountain water and can confirm it’s incredibly refreshing! Regardless of whether the fountain has healing properties, it’s still worth a try if you’re passing.

Leaving Villambistia, you’ll find yourself back on an easy, gently climbing trail. While you’ll gain a bit of elevation, the path is pleasant underfoot and you’ll make good time.

Espinosa Del Camino (1.7 Kms)

Espinosa del Camino is a tiny hamlet with an intriguing name, meaning “Thorn of the Camino.” It may have been named after the hawthorns that line the path; much like Roncesvalles, which derives its name from the blackberries that grow in the valley.

Today, fewer than 30 people live in this quiet village, yet it still offers an ancient church, and two wonderful places to stay.

The Church of La Asunción, is a modest church, reflecting Espinosa del Camino’s medieval roots. Inside, you’ll find a 12th-century image of Saint Indalecio, one of Saint James’ disciples. The church, Renaissance in style, was developed from 1544 onwards by stonemasons Juan de Landeras and Juan de Carasa, who were paid 40,000 maravedís for their labour; roughly €280 today. While this may sound modest, it represented a substantial wage in the 16th century.

If you’re looking to stay the night or simply pause for refreshments, La Taberna de Espinosa has everything a pilgrim needs. And Casa Las Almas is a private home where the owners have created a true pilgrim oasis, offering a warm welcome and home comforts.

As you continue along the trail, keep an eye out for the Monasterio de San Felices de Oca, or what remains of it. Covered in greenery that almost resembles hair, these ruins mark the site of a once-mighty Mozarabic church and monastery, built in the 9th century. While little remains today, this was one of the most important religious institutions in northern Spain.

Follow the arrows out of the village, continue on quiet trails until the very last section, where you’ll walk beside the N-120 for a short time; thankfully on a trail and not the road. This path will lead you into the bustling little town of Villafranca de Montes de Oca.

Villafranca de Montes de Oca (3.6 kms)

Villafranca de Montes de Oca is steeped in ancient history, with roots tracing back to the Iron Age, around 700 BCE. The Romans later built a large settlement nearby called Auca, and it’s said that Saint James himself appointed San Indalecio as Auca’s first bishop. The first documented bishop, however, was Asterio, who held the position in 589.

The town’s name refers to the “nettle-filled mountains” beyond it, and a reference to the rugged terrain that pilgrims once faced. While Villafranca is undeniably ancient, it is now home to fewer than 200 residents; but its tradition of offering hospitality to pilgrims continues.

I’ve stayed here a few times.  On my first Camino, I walked here from Grañón (near Santo Domingo de la Calzada); a 28-kilometre day!  I’d never walked that far in my life but my Camino buddies chose Villafranca as our destination and who was I to argue?  Not only did I manage it but found myself practically skipping along the trail. My rest days in Estella had fully healed my feet, and I’d discovered my “Camino legs.” I loved every step of this day.

As you enter the village, you’ll be greeted by El Pájaro, an excellent new bar and restaurant that’s popular with both locals and pilgrims. We stopped for lunch and the food was excellent.

Tip Tip : This is the last spot for a meal before the long stretch into the Montes de Oca, so I highly recommend pausing. They also sell snacks and water behind the bar; essential if you’re continuing onward.

Many pilgrims choose to stay in Villafranca.  I stayed in the municipal albergue but that is no longer open.  However, I’ve also stayed at Hotel San Antón Abad, which offers both a private hotel and an adjoining albergue for pilgrims.

Top Tip : Villafranca’s main road is narrow and busy, with plenty of large lorries; stick to the pavement and take extra care.

The arrows are well marked and they quickly direct you away from the road and up the hill.  This is a big hill.  Take your time and watch your footing.  Whilst the trail is pretty good underfoot, it can be sticky if it’s been raining. 

Alto de la Pedraja (3.6 kms)

The climb to Alto de la Pedraja is the most challenging section of the day, with steep ascents winding through a beautiful natural forest, filled with oak, juniper, ash, and pine trees. If you’re lucky, you might spot some of the local wildlife, such as foxes, otters, or deer. On my last walk, the forest floor was bursting with mushrooms; although I wasn’t tempted to try any!

After a few kilometres of climbing, you’ll reach the Alto de la Pedraja, marked by a monument commemorating those who lost their lives here during the Spanish Civil War in 1936. During July and August of 1936, locals reported dozens of bodies dumped along the river every day. It’s a poignant reminder of the area’s complex and sometimes violent history.

There are picnic tables at the top if you’d like to take a break, but note that there are no services. Some pilgrims have reported a food truck here in the summer months, but I’ve yet to see one myself; so don’t count on it.

From the monument, the trail continues into what I like to call the Rollercoaster; a short but tough section with a sharp descent followed by an immediate climb. It’s the last major elevation of the day, so once you conquer it, you’ll be rewarded with easier trails through the forest.

If it’s rained recently, be prepared for some large muddy puddles, but otherwise, the path is straightforward. There was once a charming little pilgrim rest area partway along, complete with sculptures and seating.  The last time I passed, it appeared abandoned and deserted; a shame, as it added character to this stretch.

Before too long, you’ll spot the rooftops of San Juan de Ortega, a very welcome sight after nearly 12 kilometres of forest walking. Emerging from the forest felt like a real achievement for me back in 2014. After walking from St Jean Pied de Port, this was the moment I truly felt that Burgos, and ultimately Santiago, were within reach.

Top Tip: If you need to answer the call of nature in the forest, please ensure you leave no trace. Carry tissues, wipes, and doggie bags for such occasions, and dispose of them responsibly in bins when you reach the village. It’s a simple step that helps keep the Camino clean and beautiful for everyone.

San Juan de Ortega (8.6 kms)

I once graced the pages of the parish magazine of this tiny hamlet! In 2022, I joined a team called Ditch Pigs, a group of volunteers who walk sections of the Camino each year to pick up rubbish. Wearing bright orange vests and armed with our dustcart, we set off in the snow and were photographed leaving the village.

San Juan de Ortega is less a village and more a small collection of houses dominated by its church and monastery, both steeped in history. The hamlet was founded in the 12th century by San Juan de Ortega himself. After surviving a shipwreck en route to the Holy Land, he vowed, if spared, he would dedicate his life to serving pilgrims. Fulfilling this promise, he returned to Spain and, in 1130, established a hospice in the woods for weary pilgrims.

The hospice gained royal and papal protection, and after San Juan’s death in 1163, the monastery was placed under the care of Burgos Cathedral.

Legend links San Juan with Queen Isabel la Católica, who prayed at the monastery for a son. When her prayers were answered, she named her child Juan in the saint’s honour. Indeed, monastery records list 114 miracles attributed to the saint.

The church of San Juan de Ortega is a simple yet beautiful Romanesque structure. Twice a year, during the spring and autumn equinoxes, sunlight illuminates a capital depicting the Annunciation. This calendrical feature marked significant seasonal transitions, with the light passing through on 21 March and 22 September.

If the church is open when you visit, it’s well worth stepping inside and reflecting on the space’s deep connection to almost a thousand years of pilgrimage

Where to Stay in San Juan de Ortega

San Juan de Ortega is a tiny hamlet, and accommodation options are limited.  However, what it lacks in variety, it makes up for in charm and tradition. Over the years, we’ve stayed in the small Casa Rural but there are other choices for pilgrims.

Top Tip : Don’t forget the second bar, just after the Monastery. This was here first and I’ve enjoyed a few lovely meals here and it’s often overlooked these days.

Potential Problems Between Belorado and San Juan de Ortega

While this stage offers stunning scenery and peaceful trails, there are a few challenges to keep in mind:

Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

My Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances Between Belorado and San Juan de Ortega

Today is a good walk. Stage 11, from Belorado to San Juan de Ortega, offers a mix of trails that are mostly easy underfoot, a blend of history, and just the right amount of challenge with the hill out of Villafranca.  And the quiet Montes de Oca forest offers a chance for reflection as you wander.

On my first Camino, I was worried about the climb through the Montes de Oca, but I quickly learned that with a shorter stride and a steady pace, it’s absolutely manageable. Now, I look forward to this part of the day; the forest offers a sense of remoteness, something you haven’t felt since the mountains between St Jean Pied de Port and Spain. It’s a refreshing change after the busy N-120 highway sections of the last few days.

San Juan de Ortega is a fitting end to the stage.  Just like Santo Domingo de la Calzada, San Juan offers a rich slice of Camino history with a peaceful setting that makes you really feel part of something timeless.

And don’t forget to visit the second bar; it’s less fancy than the first, but the meal is hearty, traditional, and exactly what you’ll need after a day on the Camino!

Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked this glorious trail eight times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily guides for each stage of the journey that you may find useful.