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The Botafumeiro in Santiago de Compostela : History, Rituals and When to See It

Created by Colleen | Updated : 19 January 2025 |

For many pilgrims walking to Santiago de Compostela, seeing the Botafumeiro in this UNESCO World Heritage cathedral is a dream come true and the perfect finale to their Camino.

While pilgrims walk to the tomb of the Apostle St. James, the Botafumeiro has earned its place in Camino history. This medieval tradition has fascinated people for centuries: a giant thurible swinging through the air in a grand display of incense and smoke.

But what is the Botafumeiro? What is the history behind the ritual, and, more importantly, how can you witness it?

I’ve walked into Santiago de Compostela more times than I can remember; let me share what I’ve learned about its history, the ritual, and when you can see it.

the botafumeiro swinging in the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela

What is the Botafumeiro? 

The Botafumeiro is a huge incense burner, or thurible, famous worldwide. Suspended by sturdy ropes, it swings dramatically across the transept of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

A censer (or thurible) is a vessel made for burning incense. These vessels vary in size, shape, and materials, and they’ve been used since ancient times across the world.

In religious contexts, the term “censer” often refers to intricate pieces used during ceremonies, especially those on chains that are swung through the air, often by hand, to spread the incense.

What does Botafumeiro mean?   

The term Botafumeiro is specific to Santiago de Compostela. It’s a Galician word meaning “smoke expeller”:

  • Botar means to throw or to expel
  • Fume means smoke
Is it Worth Visiting Santiago de Compostela? Yes. You can witness the famous Botafumeiro in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

How Big Is The Botafumeiro?

The Botafumeiro is a censer like no other, suspended from the main dome of the Cathedral by a pulley system.

  • The Cathedral’s website says it weighs 53 kg and is 1.50 metres tall, while Wikipedia claims it’s 80 kg and 1.93 metres tall. Perhaps the difference is it’s weight when filled with charcoal and incense, or the maximum height when opened for filling?
  • It is made of brass and plated in silver.
  • It hangs 20 metres above the floor and can reach speeds of 68 km/h.
  • Eight men, called tiraboleiros, are needed to operate it. Their skill, strength, and coordination are essential to ensuring its dramatic swing.

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

How does the Botafumeiro Work?

The Botafumeiro is suspended by a thick rope connected to a pulley system, first installed in 1604. While regularly maintained, its design has remained largely unchanged since the late 16th century, when wooden beams were replaced with cast iron to allow for greater speed and height.

The tiraboleiros rhythmically pull the rope, building momentum until the Botafumeiro swings in a 65-metre arc. the iron pulley’s design prevents it from crashing into the vault, remaining just a few metres away at an inclination of 82 degrees.

Dominic Laffi’s (the Italian pilgrim and writer) description of the spectacle in 1670 show how little has changed over the centuries :

Before the high altar is a great thurible in the shape of a large lamp, attached by a rope to the ceiling at the very top of the dome. It is lowered when they put in the incense and light it. Then they draw it to one side, to such a height that only a few can still reach it, and then they give it a push. It swings from one door to the other, that is, from south to north, along the arms of the cross. Because of its size and speed it makes a great wind. The burning incense and other odours produce a thick, fragrant smoke, which permeates the whole church. [Laffi; trans. Hall (1997), 171–2.]

two men preparing the botafumeiro

History of the Botafumeiro: It’s Origins and Purpose        

There is no record of the first use of the Botafumeiro; it is said to date from the 11th century .  It was first mentioned in the 12th-century Codex Calixtinus, where it’s called a Turibulum Magnum.

While it’s often said the Botafumeiro masked the odours of pilgrims I’ve never been convinced by this theory; although I totally understand that this would be a great side effect.

I did some research into how the ritual may have evolved, after all the Three Wise Men brought Incense to the baby Jesus, long before medieval pilgrimage.  And it’s clear now that its deeper purpose lies in the spiritual significance of incense:

Psalm 141:2: “Let my prayer be counted as incense before you…”

The use of incense burners spans millennia and cultures, with these being just some of the earliest examples:

  • China (5th–4th century BCE): The earliest vessels identified as censers date to this period. They are believed to have evolved from earlier sacrificial chalices.
  • Ancient Egypt (Circa 1500 BCE): Incense was burned in temples to honor gods and pharaohs. Elaborate burners symbolized purity and divine presence.
  • Mesopotamia (Circa 1500 BCE): Texts and artifacts from Sumerian and Babylonian cultures document incense burning as offerings to deities in temples.
  • Judaism (Circa 10th century BCE): Incense burning was central to worship in the First and Second Temples in Jerusalem. The Altar of Incense, described in the Torah (Exodus 30:1-10), was used for burning aromatic substances daily.
  • Hinduism (Circa 1500 BCE): Incense burners have been integral to Hindu rituals for thousands of years, purifying the atmosphere and creating sacred spaces.
  • Buddhism (6th–4th century BCE): Incense became a core element of Buddhist traditions, symbolizing impermanence and offering purification during meditation and temple ceremonies.
  • Ancient Greece and Rome (8th century BCE–5th century CE): Incense was burned during religious ceremonies, funerary rites, and political events, often as offerings to gods and to cleanse spaces.
  • Christianity (4th century CE): Incense was adopted from Jewish temple practices and became part of Christian worship, particularly in the Eastern Orthodox Church. It symbolized the prayers of the faithful rising to heaven.
  • Islam (7th century CE): Incense burners are used during prayers and in mosques to create a fragrant atmosphere. Cultural traditions like Bakhoor burning are also widely practiced in the Middle East.
  • Catholic Church (Middle Ages, 9th–15th century CE): Censers (thuribles) became prominent in Catholic liturgy, used in Masses, processions, and blessings.

Over time, the Botafumeiro has evolved into a symbol of purification and the lifting of prayers and a powerful medieval tradition.  I can imagine that, at a time when Santiago de Compostela was one of the greatest pilgrimage sites in the world, the Botafumeiro would have been an awe-inspiring spectacle.

While the use of incense predates Christianity, the specific practice of swinging a large censer like the Botafumeiro is unique to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and deeply rooted in medieval pilgrimage.

stunning cathedral in Santiago de Compostela

How Many Botafumeiro Have There Been?

The tradition of a swinging censer in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela dates back to the 11th century. In the 13th century, the pulley mechanism was modified to include a set of coaxial drums, improving its operation.

In the 15th century, France’s King Louis XI donated funds to replace the medieval thurible. This new, ornate silver censer was introduced in 1554 and used continuously until it was stolen by Napoleon’s troops in April 1809.

The 15th-century thurible was never recovered, and its fate remains a mystery. It was replaced in 1851 by the current Botafumeiro.

The Current Botafumeiro

The Botafumeiro in use today was crafted in 1851 by goldsmith José Losada. Made from an alloy of brass and bronze and plated in silver, it has graced the Cathedral for over 170 years.

In 2006, after 155 years of service, the Botafumeiro underwent a comprehensive restoration. The dents and cracks were repaired, and a 20-micrometre-thick silver plating was reapplied, ensuring its continued use.

What is the Artichoke?

When the Botafumeiro is not in operation, it’s possible that you may see the Alcachofa; a slightly smaller relic whose name translates to “The Artichoke.”

This replica thurible, crafted in silver, was created in 1971 as a gift from the Provisional Second-Lieutenants.

Are You Planning To Walk The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked the Camino Frances 8 times over the last 11 years.

With so much knowledge I decided to create free comprehensive daily guides for every Stage of the Camino Frances. Click the button below to find the stages from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela.

The botafumeiro swinging

Have there been Any Accidents with the Botafumeiro?   

Yes, there have been a few notable incidents involving the Botafumeiro over the centuries.

  • 1499: During a visit by Princess Catherine of Aragon the Botafumeiro reportedly broke loose and flew out of the Cathedral, landing in the Plaza del Obradoiro after exiting through the Platerías high window. Miraculously, no injuries were reported.
  • 1622: The Botafumeiro fell at the feet of the tiraboleiros during a ceremony, though details of the incident are sparse.
  • 1937: The cords supporting the Botafumeiro failed mid-swing, causing it to crash to the ground and spill hot coals.

But despite these incidents, the Botafumeiro remains a symbol of awe and reverence, with regular inspections and maintenance ensuring the safety of this centuries-old tradition. Indeed, in 2024 the Botafumeiro was out of action for some time, following a period of repair and restoration.

Is the Borafumeiro Used Weekly at Mass?

Contrary to popular belief, the Botafumeiro is not used weekly at every Mass.

It is reserved for special occasions, such as important religious feasts, the arrival of significant pilgrim groups, or when sponsored by individuals or groups.

When is The Botafumeiro Used?

The Botafumeiro is swung during certain liturgical events or when specially requested. The dates when the Botafumeiro is used are :

  • 6th January: Epiphany
  • Easter Sunday
  • Ascension of Our Lord (May)
  • 23rd May: Apparition of the Apostle
  • Pentecost Sunday (50 days after Easter)
  • 25th July: Feast of Saint James
  • 15th August: Assumption of the Blessed Virgin
  • 1st November: All Saints’ Day
  • Feast of Christ the King (Sunday before the first Sunday of Advent in November)
  • 8th December: Immaculate Conception
  • 25th December: Christmas Day
  • 30th December: Arrival of the Holy Apostle

Outside of these dates, the Botafumeiro can be requested and reserved through the Pilgrim Office, with an associated cost about €500 or email botafumeiro@catedraldesantiago.es

With this subscription, comes preferred seating so that you or your group can see without obstruction. Pilgrims and visitors can request and pay for this service; very often it is requested by civic groups, church groups, scouts, and even military groups.  And of course, pilgrims who have walked into Santiago de Compostela, and want to be certain that they see the Botafumeiro while they are there.

To find out if it will be used during your visit, check the Cathedral’s website or enquire at the Pilgrim Office but I have to say outside of the major feast days, it’s use is rarely publicised.

Are You Planning To Walk The Camino Frances?

I’ve walked the Camino Frances 8 times over the last 11 years.

With so much knowledge I decided to create free comprehensive daily guides for every Stage of the Camino Frances. Click the button below to find the stages from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela.

preparing for the use of the Botafumeiro during a service

Want to Read More?

There are a few books that will offer an incredible historical insight to medieval pilgrimage and the history associated with the Camino de Santiago. If you would like to read in depth I would suggest the following books :

Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

Final Thoughts : The Botafumeiro in Santiago de Compostela

The Botafumeiro is not just a symbol of the Camino; it represents the splendour and spirituality of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. If you are fortunate enough to witness its majestic swing, it will undoubtedly be an unforgettable part of your pilgrimage.

Yet, beyond the spectacle it’s important to remember that at its core, this ritual is a spiritual experience. As the Cathedral reminds us:

“In the same way that the smoke from the incense rises to the top of the temple’s naves, so must the prayers of the pilgrims rise to reach the heart of God.

And in the same manner that the aroma of the incense perfumes the entire basilica, so must Christians, with their virtues and the testimony of their lives, impregnate with the good scent of Christ, the society that they live in.”

The Botafumeiro’s size, spectacle, and historical significance make it unparalleled. The ritualistic swinging, performed by the tiraboleiros, is a unique tradition tied specifically to Santiago de Compostela and its role as a pilgrimage destination.

While other churches have censers, none carry the same symbolic and cultural weight as the Botafumeiro. Its enduring connection to the Camino and Saint James cements its place as one of the most extraordinary liturgical artifacts in the world.

Are you Walking The Camino De Santiago?

I’ve walked countless Camino since 2013 and have written daily stage guides for the some of those routes :

You can find all my Camino Posts here : Camino de Santiago Guides

men swinging the ropes that move the botafumeiro

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.

I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.

Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.

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Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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