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O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela: Step By Step Guide To The Final Stage Of The Camino Frances

Created by Colleen | Updated : 4 January 2025 | ,

If you’re reading this post, you’re likely preparing for one of the most glorious stages of the Camino Frances; the final steps into Santiago de Compostela.

I have lost count of the number of times I have walked into this city. I no longer remember how many nights I’ve slept here. But what I do know is that the magic of arriving in the Praza do Obradoiro and looking up at those ancient spires never gets old.

Before Santiago, you have a mixed bag kind of day: surprisingly green and rural, yet the walk from O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela nonetheless packs a few hills. And along the way, you’ll still find a handful of glorious little corners to explore.

You might find yourself wanting to speed up today. You’ll want to rush through the city, and coffee stops may be minimal. You might even leave at first light (or earlier) to reach Santiago before noon.

But let me show you why today, of all days, is one to slow down.

the foot of one of the pilgrim statues at Monte de Gozo, just before Santiago

Walking the Camino Frances from O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

You have less than 20 kilometres to walk today, but don’t expect them all to be too easy. I remember thinking once that Santiago must be at the bottom of a cliff, as the trail seemed to climb steadily from Sarria. But of course, for every uphill, there’s a downhill. And once you reach Monte del Gozo, it’s mostly downhill into the city.

There are fewer tiny hamlets today, but there are well-spaced services, lots of eucalyptus forests, and even a walk around Santiago Airport. In between the terrain is manageable, with shaded paths, green spaces and rural roads.

While Santiago is a city and walking in and out of cities aren’t always my favourite, the journey into Santiago feels different. You move easily from rural to residential, almost skipping the urban sprawl. 

  • Pedrouzo and Santiago de Compostela Distance : 19.9 km
  • Pedrouzo and Santiago de Compostela Elevation gain : 364 m | Elevation loss : 376 m
map for the Camino Frances stage between O Pedrouzo and Santiago de

elevation profile for the Camino Frances stage between O Pedrouzo and Santiago de Compostela

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Towns and Villages Between O Pedrouzo and Santiago de Compostela

There are fewer services today so I do recommend having breakfast before leaving O Pedrouzo; and yes I do know I say that every day, but trust me, there’s nothing worse that waiting three hours for your first cup of coffee!

Today’s walk still has a few hills, lots of forests and, of course, the sheer joy of walking into Santiago.

O Pedrouzo

There are several cafés in town that open early for breakfast. I recommend asking at your accommodation, or, if you eat dinner in town ask then about opening times for the morning.

If you read yesterday’s post about the walk from Ribadiso to O Pedrouzo, you’ll know I recommended a few options for overnight stays:

  • Albergue Cruceiro De Pedrouzo: A fantastic albergue. While they don’t offer breakfast, there’s a drinks machine and a kitchen where you can prepare something before leaving.
  • Pensión 9 de Abril: I’ve stayed here a few times. It’s a wonderful little spot, though breakfast isn’t available. There is a cafe just a few steps away, on your way to the arrows.
  • Hotel Amiuka: If you’re looking for somewhere special, this is the hotel to choose and you can enjoy a good breakfast before leaving.

I do understand the urge to get on the road and arrive in Santiago early and attend the noon pilgrim mass, visit the pilgrim office, and celebrate. But if you leave too early, it might still be dark, you’ll potentially miss arrows, and certainly miss the views along the way.

My advice is plan to spend an extra day (or three) in Santiago. Take your time today, enjoy breakfast, and wait for the sun to rise. Let the crowds rush ahead.

Since O Pedrouzo isn’t directly on the Camino Frances, you’ll need to retrace your steps back to the yellow arrows; but it is well-marked. If you stayed in the center of O Pedrouzo, head toward Rua do Concello. It’s a T-junction on the N-547 and from there, you’ll quickly find arrows.

The trail is well-marked with a good walking surface, but expect a few twists and turns. Before you know it, you arrive in San Antón, a tiny hamlet with a few old buildings but no services.  And from here the Camino leads you in and around a few houses and country roads until you reach a forest.

Top Tip : Shortly after leaving you’ll walk through a forest which will dampen the light.  If you’ve left at dawn it will be dark; you will need a head torch; or your phone’s torch.  But be aware it might drain your phone battery.

O Pedrouza sign painted on the wall of the town

Amenal (3.8 km)

From the forest, you’ll quickly find yourself in Amenal. There are two options here for breakfast and accommodation. If you really want to reach Santiago early, these could be good alternatives to O Pedrouzo. However, both are small, with limited services, and you might miss the lively pilgrim atmosphere at the larger town.

  • Hotel Restaurante Amenal : I’ve stopped here for breakfast many times but never stayed overnight. It’s more of a roadside motel than a hotel and receives mixed reviews. The coffee is good but staying here might feel a little lacking in soul.
  • Pension Bar Kilometro 15: I’ve eaten here but not stayed overnight. This cafe gets busy in the mornings, so if it’s too crowded, you might be better crossing the road to Hotel Amenal. The rooms are small and clean but offer few frills. Keep in mind, the bar and restaurant close in the afternoon, so you’ll need to be self-sufficient for food and drink later.

Top Tip : You’ll cross the road here but make sure to use the tunnel! It’s there for pilgrims to cross safely.

It’s almost 4 kilometers before the next coffee stop, so I recommend pausing at one of these before moving on. From Hotel Amenal, the arrows guide you uphill and through eucalyptus forests until you reach the fringe of Santiago Airport.

looking back at Amenal in the morning on the Camino Frances

San Paio (4.1 km)

The arrows leads you around the perimeter fence of Santiago Airport; albeit mostly hidden behind trees. You’ll often find a small trinket stall on the trail, complete with a sello for your credential! From here you’re very quickly meandering into the little village of San Paio.

San Paio, or Saint Pelagius, was born in Galicia and is revered as a young Christian martyr. At the age of ten, he was handed over by his uncle to the Caliphate in Cordoba, where he was held captive. Despite being offered freedom in exchange for denouncing his faith, he refused and was tortured and martyred at the tender age of thirteen.

The village and church are named in his honour. While the current church was dedicated in 1840, it is believed to have been built on the ruins of a 12th-century ruins.

  • There’s a great little bar here, just before the church, as you enter the village.
  • If you’re looking to spend the night, you’ll find the Last 12K Guest House just opposite the church; a perfect little quiet stay before Santiago.
the church at San Paio on the Camino Frances

Lavacolla (2.1 km)

The very name Lavacolla often brings a chuckle to pilgrims. According to the Codex Calixtinus, this was a place where medieval pilgrims were expected to stop and wash before entering the holy city of Santiago de Compostela. The name Lavacolla has two popular theories regarding its origin:

  • Ritual Washing derived from Latin :
  • Lava: To wash
  • Colla: Neck; or as some suggest, private areas

    In the 12th century, the village was called Lavamentula, where mentula means phallus in Latin, and colla could refer to the scrotum. This has led to some debate about whether pilgrims were expected to wash their bodies or just specific areas. Let’s hope they opted for a thorough bath!

    • Rural Roots theory also connects the town name to Latin :
    • Labra: To work or plough
    • Colli: Hill or field

    Regardless of the interpretation, Lavacolla’s importance to pilgrimage is clear; it was one of the last stops before entering Santiago. You can also spend the night here :

    • Albergue Lavacolla : A traditional and popular albergue. It’s clean, spacious, and in a good location with a supermarket nearby. And unlike the Xunta albergues, there is a well-equipped kitchen.
    • Albergue A Fabrica: A great little albergue. It’s very clean, with comfortable bunks, individual lights, sockets, and curtains (I love a curtain!). There’s a communal space, a nice garden, and a fully equipped kitchen. Some pilgrims choose to stay here before flying out of Santiago.
    • Pension Xacobeo Lavacolla : This is a lovely pension, not necessarily specific to pilgrims but very comfortable. It’s clean, located in a residential area, and has a lovely garden. There’s also a well-equipped kitchen and laundry facilities.
    the church at lavacolla in the morning with sun coming up behind

    Vilamaior (1.3 km)

    Leaving Lavacolla, you’ll walk past the church and down to the stream that may have inspired its name. From there, it’s a steady uphill climb until you reach Vilamaior, a small village with a glorious little cafe that’s well worth a stop.

    An en route you’ll notice that the Camino markers drop into the single digits; just 9 kilometres to go until Santiago!

    Casa de Amancio is a welcoming cafe, in a beautiful old building. The staff are great and it’s a lovely stop to recharge. The last time I passed it had been raining all day.  Everyone was drenched. The chairs and tables inside were covered with wet ponchos and packs, but the owners greeted us with smiles and we warmed up with hot chocolate and cake.

    • Casa de Amancio also offers accommodation. If you’re seeking a quiet and comfortable stay, this could be a lovely option.
    walking to Santiago in the rain

    San Marcos (3.7 km)

    The walk into San Marcos is fairly uneventful. You’ll follow a quiet road, most of the time with a dedicated pavement for pilgrims.

    San Marcos is a reminder that you’re close. San Marcos spreads out along the road, with rows of neat houses lining your trail, until you reach Monte Del Gozo.

    walking in spring in Galicia along trails lined with trees

    Monte del Gozo (0.4 km)

    Monte del Gozo, or the Mount of Joy, is aptly named for the euphoria that medieval pilgrims felt upon reaching this point. It’s the first place on the trail where you’ll catch a sight of the spires of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela; although you’ll need a clear day to see them.

    While Monte del Gozo may have held spiritual significance for the Celts, it was pilgrimage that made this site famous. By the 11th century, Monte del Gozo was widely recognized as a place of safety and where you would first see the spires of Santiago.

    You can visit the small Capilla de San Lazaro here and collect a sello (stamp) as you pass.  In 1149 there was a hospital too for those suffering from Leprosy but the chapel is all that is left today.

    In 1989, Pope John Paul II visited Monte del Gozo for World Youth Day; a moment that brought the site global attention. By 1993, in preparation for the Holy Year, the large albergue complex was built, including a vast park and the famous pilgrim sculptures. I have to say the complex isn’t the prettiest; but it does have 500 pilgrim beds.

    Top Tip : Many pilgrims miss the statues, continuing straight along the trail. If you’d like to see them, walk down through the albergue park; they’re somewhat hidden in front of a cluster of trees but they are there. And don’t worry about retracing your steps, you can walk through the Gozo Albergue park and rejoin the Camino from the steps of the albergue entrance.

    large pilgrim statues at Monte de Gozo

    Walking into Santiago de Compostela

    From Monte del Gozo, you’ll wander onwards through the outskirts of Santiago, passing cafes, shops, and more than one town sign for photos. You’ll walk into the modern part of town and then into the old.  Maybe you’ll have a lump in your throat as you see the spires rise up ahead.  Maybe you’ll quicken your steps as modern buildings give way to the historic streets.

    Expect crowds as you near the heart of Santiago, but the yellow arrows are clear.  All too soon you’ll walk between by the Hospedería San Martín Pinario and the Cathedral’s Porta de Acibecheria. Maybe the piper will be there to accompany your last steps, down through the Arco de Palacio into the iconic Praza do Obradoiro.

    And after a journey of days or weeks you will have arrived. I can assure you that few times in your life can match the enormous sense of pride or achievement or joy that you feel as you stand there, before the stunning Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

    Santiago de Compostela (4.9 km)

    What can I tell you about Santiago de Compostela that you don’t already know? It’s a breathtaking UNESCO-listed city, home to the magnificent Cathedral and a beautifully preserved old town. It’s also one of the most popular sites of pilgrimage in the world.

    Santiago is busy. The streets are lined with souvenir shops, selling variations of the same thing. Restaurants are plentiful but often more expensive than those on the trail, and did I mention it’s busy?

    But despite the hustle and bustle, Santiago is glorious. It’s joyous. By night, when the day-trippers have gone, the streets are quiet and the city feels as though it belongs to pilgrims.

    The first time I arrived in Santiago, I left for home the next day. I visited the Pilgrim Office and the Cathedral, but for some reason, I felt an urge to move on. Since then, I’ve stayed longer and with every visit I’ve stayed longer and fallen for this city of pilgrimage.

    • Do visit the Cathedral, go early or late to avoid the crowds.  Take a rooftop tour if you have time; it’s spectacular. Attend mass, and if you’re lucky you’ll see the Botafumeiro
    • Do visit the Tomb of St James; after all you’ve walked so far in his name
    • Do visit the pilgrim office to collect your Compostela. 
    • Visit the Pilgrim Museum, Pilgrim House, spend some time in Alameda Park and visit the Two Maria’s and wander these ancient streets.

    There is far too much to write about visiting Santiago de Compostela here. Watch for my upcoming posts, where I’ll dive into the history, where to stay and where to eat, what to see and more about the pilgrim services in the city.

    stunning cathedral in Santiago de Compostela

    Where to Stay in Santiago de Compostela

    One thing to note; no matter how many beds there are in Santiago, in high season, there are never enough. Book ahead. While some pilgrims claim they didn’t need to, rest assured that Santiago, like St. Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles, will run out of beds during peak times.

    The good news is that Santiago offers something for everyone. Here are four of my favourite places to stay:

    • Parador de Santiago – Hostal dos Reis Catolicos : Don’t let the word hostel mislead you; this is a luxurious hotel located in the heart of Santiago, in the Praza do Obradoiro, directly opposite the Cathedral. Paradors in Spain are synonymous with luxury, and this iconic hotel is no exception. I’ve stayed here and it was a truly wonderful experience.
    • Libredon Rooms : I always prefer to stay close to the Cathedral; the modern city is much larger than visitors expect. My room at Libredon had views of the Cathedral, and it’s just a few hundred metres from the main square. The rooms are simple yet beautifully furnished, the beds are very comfortable, and the showers are spotless with plenty of hot water.
    • Hospedería San Martin Pinario : For budget-friendly accommodation, you can’t go wrong with San Martín Pinario. This is where I most often stay when I’m in Santiago, but be warned: places book very quickly! There are two types of rooms, modernised rooms, which feel more like a hotel and basic pilgrim rooms. I have more successes booking through the Hospedería direct via email.
      hospedería san martín pinario my favourite place to stay

      Potential Challenges Between O Pedrouzo and Santiago de Compostela

      There are very few challenges on this final stage that should trouble seasoned pilgrims like yourself, but there are a few things to keep in mind:

      • Low Light: Most pilgrims start early and the forest sections can be dark. Either wait and enjoy breakfast in town or ensure you have a good head torch. Your phone torch can work, but it might drain your battery.
      • Busy Santiago: After days on the trail, Santiago can feel like a shock. It’s seriously busy, with tourists, souvenir shops, restaurants, and all the bustle of city life. Be ready to navigate crowds as you transition back into the real world.
      • Queues in the Cathedral : I always find this very difficult to manage.  You’ll queue to get in, queue to visit the tomb and probably stand for mass amongst a sea of smartphones. These days I go early in the morning or at night to avoid this.
      • Weather: I know I harp on about the weather, but it can make or break your experience. The last time I walked into Santiago on the Frances, it rained heavily all day. My RAB Alpinista jacket kept me dry and it was worth every penny.
      • Impatience: I know you want to get there, but will an hour or two make that much difference? Take a breath and make the most of this last day.
      • Overwhelming Emotions: It’s totally normal to experience a flood of different emotions; excitement, joy, sadness, or even a sense of loss as the journey ends. Allow yourself time to process these emotions.
      • Pilgrim Office: You must register your arrival with the pilgrim office online before you arrive.  You can do it at the door but it’s so much better to do it the night before in the calm of your accommodation. When you arrive just show your QR code and the rest will be a lot smoother. 
      rooftops of santiago taken from the top of the Cathedral

      Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

      Recommended Apps, Books And Websites

      When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :

      • Alertcops : A free app that connects you directly with the Spanish police. Hopefully, you’ll never need it but it offers peace of mind knowing assistance is just one click away.
      • What3Words : Another app you’ll hopefully never need but great for emergencies. It pinpoints your exact location down to a 3×3 metre square anywhere in the world. Free to download and invaluable if needed.
      • Wise Pilgrim : Not free, but for a few euros, this app is a treasure trove of Camino knowledge. I’ve used it for years, and the real-time map feature is perfect if you’re unsure which path to take.
      • Google Translate : A must-have for translating menus, signs, or conversations. Type, snap a photo (great for menus) or speak into it and it’ll translate for you. Download it in advance and ensure the Spanish language pack is installed for offline use.
      • Casa Ivar : I buy my credentials from Casa Ivar but he has everything a pilgrim needs and he will accept items forwarded in the post to Santiago. Ivar runs the international pilgrim forum and has lived in Santiago for many years.
      • John Brierley Guides : Considered the go-to guidebook for Camino pilgrims. Compact, regularly updated, and packed with useful details. It is Brierley’s recommended stages that are still widely followed today.
      • The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago by David Gitlitz: A rich resource for history lovers. I feel it’s a labour of love, with detailed history of the trail from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela. I have it on my Kindle App on my phone and refer to it often.
      • WhatsApp : Many albergue and pilgrim services communicate via WhatsApp. Download it before leaving home, as some phones may block new app installs overseas.
      • Airalo: Not an app but an eSIM provider. It’s easy to set up before leaving home, allowing you to connect to mobile data as soon as you arrive in Spain or France. Make sure your phone supports eSIMs but it really is a hassle-free alternative to finding a physical SIM card. We’ve used this now for a few years as we travel world-wide and it’s invaluable.
      • Revolut and Wise Bank Cards: While not apps, these are essential for travel. We have both Revolut and Wise cards, make paying for services and withdrawing foreign currency easy, with favourable exchange rates. Setting them up can take a bit of time, especially for American users, but they’re well worth it. We’ve used them across the globe and can’t recommend them enough.

      Want to learn more about the Camino? Then hop over to my Free Private Facebook Group | Walking The Camino De Santiago.

      gerry eating an apple in the pilgrim office in Santiago

      Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances From O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

      Reaching Santiago de Compostela is an achievement unlike any other. Regardless of your reason for walking; whether it was a journey of faith, a physical challenge, or for more personal exploration, arriving in Santiago is an incredibly emotional experience.

      You’ve completed a journey that took days or weeks, but perhaps has been years in the making. You may feel an overwhelming mix of emotions; pride, joy, gratitude, and maybe even a touch of sadness that the Camino Frances has come to an end.

      On my first Camino, we woke at 7:00 a.m. had breakfast, and picked up the arrows for our last day of walking.  It rained a bit but generally the sky was blue.  

      We walked. Up hills. Down hills. We walked.  It rained. It stopped. We saw the spires of the Cathedral some way before the end.  But we still walked.

      We arrived.  I’m lost for words.  We’re at journey’s end.  I will write more tomorrow but for now I feel I need to be waiting for the rain to stop, running up the last few metres of a hill, arms outstretched, feeling the wind against my face.

      We were pilgrims. And we walked.

      The history and grandeur of this iconic city will only magnify the sense that you’ve completed something far bigger than yourself; bigger than anything you might have imagined at the start.

      Writing these guides has brought back so many incredible memories for me and even a few tears.  I hope that they make your journey into Santiago de Compostela just a little easier.

      But remember; the end of the Camino is really only just the beginning.

      walking into the main square in Santiago at dusk

      Are You Walking The Camino Frances?

      I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :

      If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.

      Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

      Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance.  None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.

      I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.

      TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.

      Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.

      Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.

      Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.

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      Colleen in Salamanca on the Via de la Plata

      Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!

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