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O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela: Step By Step Guide To The Final Stage Of The Camino Frances
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If you’re reading this post, you’re likely preparing for one of the most glorious stages of the Camino Frances; the final steps into Santiago de Compostela.
I have lost count of the number of times I have walked into this city. I no longer remember how many nights I’ve slept here. But what I do know is that the magic of arriving in the Praza do Obradoiro and looking up at those ancient spires never gets old.
Before Santiago, you have a mixed bag kind of day: surprisingly green and rural, yet the walk from O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela nonetheless packs a few hills. And along the way, you’ll still find a handful of glorious little corners to explore.
You might find yourself wanting to speed up today. You’ll want to rush through the city, and coffee stops may be minimal. You might even leave at first light (or earlier) to reach Santiago before noon.
But let me show you why today, of all days, is one to slow down.
Walking the Camino Frances from O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela
You have less than 20 kilometres to walk today, but don’t expect them all to be too easy. I remember thinking once that Santiago must be at the bottom of a cliff, as the trail seemed to climb steadily from Sarria. But of course, for every uphill, there’s a downhill. And once you reach Monte del Gozo, it’s mostly downhill into the city.
There are fewer tiny hamlets today, but there are well-spaced services, lots of eucalyptus forests, and even a walk around Santiago Airport. In between the terrain is manageable, with shaded paths, green spaces and rural roads.
While Santiago is a city and walking in and out of cities aren’t always my favourite, the journey into Santiago feels different. You move easily from rural to residential, almost skipping the urban sprawl.
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Towns and Villages Between O Pedrouzo and Santiago de Compostela
There are fewer services today so I do recommend having breakfast before leaving O Pedrouzo; and yes I do know I say that every day, but trust me, there’s nothing worse that waiting three hours for your first cup of coffee!
Today’s walk still has a few hills, lots of forests and, of course, the sheer joy of walking into Santiago.
O Pedrouzo
There are several cafés in town that open early for breakfast. I recommend asking at your accommodation, or, if you eat dinner in town ask then about opening times for the morning.
If you read yesterday’s post about the walk from Ribadiso to O Pedrouzo, you’ll know I recommended a few options for overnight stays:
I do understand the urge to get on the road and arrive in Santiago early and attend the noon pilgrim mass, visit the pilgrim office, and celebrate. But if you leave too early, it might still be dark, you’ll potentially miss arrows, and certainly miss the views along the way.
My advice is plan to spend an extra day (or three) in Santiago. Take your time today, enjoy breakfast, and wait for the sun to rise. Let the crowds rush ahead.
Since O Pedrouzo isn’t directly on the Camino Frances, you’ll need to retrace your steps back to the yellow arrows; but it is well-marked. If you stayed in the center of O Pedrouzo, head toward Rua do Concello. It’s a T-junction on the N-547 and from there, you’ll quickly find arrows.
The trail is well-marked with a good walking surface, but expect a few twists and turns. Before you know it, you arrive in San Antón, a tiny hamlet with a few old buildings but no services. And from here the Camino leads you in and around a few houses and country roads until you reach a forest.
Top Tip : Shortly after leaving you’ll walk through a forest which will dampen the light. If you’ve left at dawn it will be dark; you will need a head torch; or your phone’s torch. But be aware it might drain your phone battery.
Amenal (3.8 km)
From the forest, you’ll quickly find yourself in Amenal. There are two options here for breakfast and accommodation. If you really want to reach Santiago early, these could be good alternatives to O Pedrouzo. However, both are small, with limited services, and you might miss the lively pilgrim atmosphere at the larger town.
Top Tip : You’ll cross the road here but make sure to use the tunnel! It’s there for pilgrims to cross safely.
It’s almost 4 kilometers before the next coffee stop, so I recommend pausing at one of these before moving on. From Hotel Amenal, the arrows guide you uphill and through eucalyptus forests until you reach the fringe of Santiago Airport.
San Paio (4.1 km)
The arrows leads you around the perimeter fence of Santiago Airport; albeit mostly hidden behind trees. You’ll often find a small trinket stall on the trail, complete with a sello for your credential! From here you’re very quickly meandering into the little village of San Paio.
San Paio, or Saint Pelagius, was born in Galicia and is revered as a young Christian martyr. At the age of ten, he was handed over by his uncle to the Caliphate in Cordoba, where he was held captive. Despite being offered freedom in exchange for denouncing his faith, he refused and was tortured and martyred at the tender age of thirteen.
The village and church are named in his honour. While the current church was dedicated in 1840, it is believed to have been built on the ruins of a 12th-century ruins.
Lavacolla (2.1 km)
The very name Lavacolla often brings a chuckle to pilgrims. According to the Codex Calixtinus, this was a place where medieval pilgrims were expected to stop and wash before entering the holy city of Santiago de Compostela. The name Lavacolla has two popular theories regarding its origin:
In the 12th century, the village was called Lavamentula, where mentula means phallus in Latin, and colla could refer to the scrotum. This has led to some debate about whether pilgrims were expected to wash their bodies or just specific areas. Let’s hope they opted for a thorough bath!
Regardless of the interpretation, Lavacolla’s importance to pilgrimage is clear; it was one of the last stops before entering Santiago. You can also spend the night here :
Vilamaior (1.3 km)
Leaving Lavacolla, you’ll walk past the church and down to the stream that may have inspired its name. From there, it’s a steady uphill climb until you reach Vilamaior, a small village with a glorious little cafe that’s well worth a stop.
An en route you’ll notice that the Camino markers drop into the single digits; just 9 kilometres to go until Santiago!
Casa de Amancio is a welcoming cafe, in a beautiful old building. The staff are great and it’s a lovely stop to recharge. The last time I passed it had been raining all day. Everyone was drenched. The chairs and tables inside were covered with wet ponchos and packs, but the owners greeted us with smiles and we warmed up with hot chocolate and cake.
San Marcos (3.7 km)
The walk into San Marcos is fairly uneventful. You’ll follow a quiet road, most of the time with a dedicated pavement for pilgrims.
San Marcos is a reminder that you’re close. San Marcos spreads out along the road, with rows of neat houses lining your trail, until you reach Monte Del Gozo.
Monte del Gozo (0.4 km)
Monte del Gozo, or the Mount of Joy, is aptly named for the euphoria that medieval pilgrims felt upon reaching this point. It’s the first place on the trail where you’ll catch a sight of the spires of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela; although you’ll need a clear day to see them.
While Monte del Gozo may have held spiritual significance for the Celts, it was pilgrimage that made this site famous. By the 11th century, Monte del Gozo was widely recognized as a place of safety and where you would first see the spires of Santiago.
You can visit the small Capilla de San Lazaro here and collect a sello (stamp) as you pass. In 1149 there was a hospital too for those suffering from Leprosy but the chapel is all that is left today.
In 1989, Pope John Paul II visited Monte del Gozo for World Youth Day; a moment that brought the site global attention. By 1993, in preparation for the Holy Year, the large albergue complex was built, including a vast park and the famous pilgrim sculptures. I have to say the complex isn’t the prettiest; but it does have 500 pilgrim beds.
Top Tip : Many pilgrims miss the statues, continuing straight along the trail. If you’d like to see them, walk down through the albergue park; they’re somewhat hidden in front of a cluster of trees but they are there. And don’t worry about retracing your steps, you can walk through the Gozo Albergue park and rejoin the Camino from the steps of the albergue entrance.
Walking into Santiago de Compostela
From Monte del Gozo, you’ll wander onwards through the outskirts of Santiago, passing cafes, shops, and more than one town sign for photos. You’ll walk into the modern part of town and then into the old. Maybe you’ll have a lump in your throat as you see the spires rise up ahead. Maybe you’ll quicken your steps as modern buildings give way to the historic streets.
Expect crowds as you near the heart of Santiago, but the yellow arrows are clear. All too soon you’ll walk between by the Hospedería San Martín Pinario and the Cathedral’s Porta de Acibecheria. Maybe the piper will be there to accompany your last steps, down through the Arco de Palacio into the iconic Praza do Obradoiro.
And after a journey of days or weeks you will have arrived. I can assure you that few times in your life can match the enormous sense of pride or achievement or joy that you feel as you stand there, before the stunning Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
Santiago de Compostela (4.9 km)
What can I tell you about Santiago de Compostela that you don’t already know? It’s a breathtaking UNESCO-listed city, home to the magnificent Cathedral and a beautifully preserved old town. It’s also one of the most popular sites of pilgrimage in the world.
Santiago is busy. The streets are lined with souvenir shops, selling variations of the same thing. Restaurants are plentiful but often more expensive than those on the trail, and did I mention it’s busy?
But despite the hustle and bustle, Santiago is glorious. It’s joyous. By night, when the day-trippers have gone, the streets are quiet and the city feels as though it belongs to pilgrims.
The first time I arrived in Santiago, I left for home the next day. I visited the Pilgrim Office and the Cathedral, but for some reason, I felt an urge to move on. Since then, I’ve stayed longer and with every visit I’ve stayed longer and fallen for this city of pilgrimage.
There is far too much to write about visiting Santiago de Compostela here. Watch for my upcoming posts, where I’ll dive into the history, where to stay and where to eat, what to see and more about the pilgrim services in the city.
Where to Stay in Santiago de Compostela
One thing to note; no matter how many beds there are in Santiago, in high season, there are never enough. Book ahead. While some pilgrims claim they didn’t need to, rest assured that Santiago, like St. Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles, will run out of beds during peak times.
The good news is that Santiago offers something for everyone. Here are four of my favourite places to stay:
Potential Challenges Between O Pedrouzo and Santiago de Compostela
There are very few challenges on this final stage that should trouble seasoned pilgrims like yourself, but there are a few things to keep in mind:
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Recommended Apps, Books And Websites
When walking any stage of the Camino Frances there are guidebooks and apps that I highly recommend you downloading or purchasing before leaving home; these include :
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Final Thoughts on the Camino Frances From O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela
Reaching Santiago de Compostela is an achievement unlike any other. Regardless of your reason for walking; whether it was a journey of faith, a physical challenge, or for more personal exploration, arriving in Santiago is an incredibly emotional experience.
You’ve completed a journey that took days or weeks, but perhaps has been years in the making. You may feel an overwhelming mix of emotions; pride, joy, gratitude, and maybe even a touch of sadness that the Camino Frances has come to an end.
On my first Camino, we woke at 7:00 a.m. had breakfast, and picked up the arrows for our last day of walking. It rained a bit but generally the sky was blue.
We walked. Up hills. Down hills. We walked. It rained. It stopped. We saw the spires of the Cathedral some way before the end. But we still walked.
We arrived. I’m lost for words. We’re at journey’s end. I will write more tomorrow but for now I feel I need to be waiting for the rain to stop, running up the last few metres of a hill, arms outstretched, feeling the wind against my face.
We were pilgrims. And we walked.
The history and grandeur of this iconic city will only magnify the sense that you’ve completed something far bigger than yourself; bigger than anything you might have imagined at the start.
Writing these guides has brought back so many incredible memories for me and even a few tears. I hope that they make your journey into Santiago de Compostela just a little easier.
But remember; the end of the Camino is really only just the beginning.
Are You Walking The Camino Frances?
I’ve walked this glorious trail many times and I’m already planning my next visit. If you’re walking from St Jean Pied de Port onwards to Santiago de Compostela, I’ve written a detailed daily walking guides for each stage :
If you’re planning your Camino or already on the trail, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Join our Camino community on Facebook, share your stories, and find inspiration for the road ahead.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Whenever you travel, you should have great travel and medical insurance. None of us expect anything bad to happen, but in the event of an incident, you want to be sure that your insurance will cover you.
I’ve ended up in hospital in Peru, Indonesia, Portugal, Japan and Ireland. Every time my insurance took care of everything. I would never leave home without full and comprehensive insurance.
TrueTraveller : We have this policy and are very happy with the cover, especially considering our ages and pre-existing conditions.
Globelink: We have used and recommended Globelink for years and not heard of any issues. They are a great choice for European and UK Residents.
Genki : This is an EU based company offering long term policies for nomads and travellers. Their monthly rates are very competitive for longer trips too.
Safety Wing : Many of my travelling buddies from the USA recommended Safety Wing; we’ve not used them personally but know folks who have.
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Hey I’m Colleen. I’m married to Gerry, we’ve three fabulous kids and been living in France for almost two decades. I fell in love with Spain in the 1980s and I’ve walked 1000s of miles along the Camino de Santiago. Now we’re exploring and walking the world and I can’t wait to share what we’ve learned!