Is it Worth Visiting Phnom Penh? Discover Her Hidden Charms

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Is it worth visiting Phnom Penh? Do you fancy sailing the Mekong or afternoon tea at Raffles (or even gin tasting) or exploring the King’s official residence?  If the answer is yes then Phnom Penh is for you!

We asked ourselves if we should include Phnom Penh but our kids told us that it is great so it made the cut.  We spent four busy days in the city and our only regret was that we couldn’t add another.

Read on and we’ll share our favourite reasons why Phnom Penh is worth visiting! 

What Is Phnom Penh Like?

On the drive from the airport, we were surprised at how unremarkable the city looked; it could have been any big Asian city.  It was only as we grew closer to our hotel, in the heart of downtown Phnom Penh, that the city unfolded.

It’s true that Phnom Penh is noisy and dirty and chaotic and crazy and yet, in spite of this, there is something about the soul of Phnom Penh that will make you fall in love.

Top 10 Things To Do In Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is a city of contrast.  You can visit temples, like Wat Phnom, or the beautiful Royal Palace and gardens, or the Cambodian National Museum.  There are wonderful little art galleries and the crazy chaos of the city markets. 

Here are our top 10 things to add to your itinerary to make your visit worth while :

1. Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre | The Killing Fields

Cambodia and the Killing Fields are linked in my mind and no visit to the country would be complete without learning about the Khmer Rouge regime.

This is a sobering trip.  Cheoung Ek, more commonly known as the Killing Fields, was originally an orchard, south of Phnom Penh.  In the 1970’s it became a place of execution and burial for thousands of Khmer Rouge victims.

129 mass graves have been excavated and today Choeung Ek is a memorial for those victims. At its centre is a Buddhist stupa with windows on each side; filled with more than 5,000 human skulls.   Boardwalks have been created to protect the graves and our guide told us that every year bones and teeth come to the surface during the rainy season.  

Whilst the events which took place here are horrific the site today is not.  Going with a guide taught us that Cambodia is not sad nor clinging to its past.  It is modern and vibrant and forward thinking. You don’t need a guide to visit the Killing Fields but I would definitely recommend one.  And as with all tours, ours included a visit to Tuol Sleng (S21).

2. Independence Monument

This isn’t really a place to visit but the Independence Monument is an important landmark and whilst it’s beautiful during the day it’s very pretty at night when lit.  It represents a lotus flower and blends modern design with Khmer architecture.  It’s on a roundabout and no doubt you’ll drive around this at least one during your stay.

3. National Museum of Cambodia

We stumbled across the National Museum of Cambodia by accident on our return from the Royal Palace.  The building and gardens are so impressive that we thought it might be a private residence. 

It’s the country’s largest cultural history museum and its purpose is to preserve and showcase Cambodia’s cultural heritage.  Within its walls you’ll find the world’s largest collection of Khmer art, including sculpture, ceramics, and bronzes, with exhibits dating from the 4th century.

4. Raffles Hotel Afternoon Tea

Everyone has heard of the Singapore Sling in the Raffles Long Bar but did you know about the Femme Fatale in Phnom Penh, created in 1967 in honour of Jackie Kennedy’s visit?   Even if you don’t have the budget to stay a night in the opulent Raffles Phnom Penh, you can drop in to the Elephant Bar for their signature cocktail or opt for a rather indulgent Afternoon Tea.

The afternoon tea includes a selection of fine teas, freshly baked scones, delicate finger sandwiches, and an assortment of pastries and sweets.  You can also ask for one of their famous cocktails or a glass of champagne. Afternoon Tea is typically served daily from around 2:00 PM to 5:00 PM and special diets can be catered for, but you must book ahead.

Top Tip : If cocktails aren’t your thing then you could book an Elephant Bar Gin experience instead!

5. Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda

You should not visit Phnom Penh without exploring the Royal Palace.  We first went as part of a walking tour and whilst the guided commentary was great, we did feel a little rushed.  Indeed, we went back a second time alone which worked well.

The gardens are beautiful as are the buildings. You don’t need a guide but the guide did help us  make the most of your visit and ensured that we saw all that was available.

Top Tip : Don’t miss the Throne Hall, the Silver Pagoda and a spectacular 17th century Buddha made of solid gold, weighing 90 kilograms and adorned with 9,584 diamonds.

This is a great full day tour and you see a lot in a day, meaning you can cherry pick the places you wish to go back to.

6. S-21 (Tuol Sleng Genocide Musuem)

Tuol Sleng is also known as S-21.  Most tours will include both a visit to the Killing Fields and S-21. This is a difficult place to visit but not for one minute do we regret going.

S-21 was once a high school but was turned into a prison used for interrogation.  Today it is a museum and remains largely untouched.  The barbed wire and shackles are a stark reminder of what this building was.  17,000 people were brought to S-21 and only a handful of people survived.  Like many regimes, the Khmer Rouge kept records and photographs and those photographs are on display.

I chose not to go into the interrogation rooms and chose not to see those photos.  Instead I sat in the garden and talked to one of the survivors who visits every day.

You can save money and visit alone but don’t because the guide really helped make sense of what we were seeing.  As with the Killing Fields the lasting memory of this tour was one of hope and how amazing the Cambodian people are.  We could learn a great deal from their incredible spirit! 

7. Sisowath Quay Promenade Along Mekong River

The promenade along the Mekong is not quite as grand as the stroll along the riverside in Ho Chi Minh at night but that shouldn’t stop you going.  Sisowath Quay is the riverside area of Phnom Penh that runs along the Tonle Sap River (just as it meets the Mekong River).

This is a popular promenade for locals and tourists and stretches for about three kilometres although most folks just stay in the area around the Quay.  If you take a Sunset Cruise it ends here and you can wander along the Promenade at night and see the city’s temples and palaces adorned in coloured lights.

 At weekends you’ll also find the Phnom Penh Night Market (very much like the Walking Street Weekend Market in Hanoi).

Top Tip : It has been said that this an area for pickpockets when it’s very busy so, as with any big city, keep an eye on your belongings.

8. Sosoro Museum

Sosoro Museum is often overlooked in favour of the National Museum but it’s a fabulous little space offering 2,000 years of Cambodian history. This is a new museum (with great air conditioning) and offers a totally different perspective, from the viewpoint of money and politics.

Learn how commerce developed and about the Kingdom of Cambodia on an ancient international stage.  Learn more about Angkor Wat and Khmer culture and the impact of the Pol Pot regime on modern Cambodia.

The Sosoro Museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00am to 9:00pm.  Allow 1-2 hours to fully appreciate it.  This is a fascinating space and well worth the 5€ entry fee. 

9. Wat Botum Park

Not far from the Royal Palace you’ll find Wat Botum Temple within Wat Botum Park. Wat Botum is a Khmer Buddhist pagoda, built in the 15th century and one of the five oldest pagodas in Phnom Penh. As well as Wat Botum, you’ll also find the Cambodia-Vietnam friendship memorial and the large statue of Hang Meas (a sacred golden bird that I thought was a dragon).

This is a lovely green space (albeit with lots of paved area too) and popular with locals and if you’re lucky the fountains will be on too.  It’s not far from the riverfront so if you’re taking a stroll to the waterfront then include the park too.

10. Wat Phnom

The city took it’s name from Wat Phnom.  Sited on the only small hill in the city, history tells us that the first pagoda was erected in 1373. According to legend, four Buddha statues were washed up along the shore of the Mekong and discovered by a woman called Penh.  Other accounts suggest a different origin, but they agree the site is ancient.  The temple has been rebuilt many times, the most recent was rebuilt a hundred years ago.

It’s a simple, but beautiful temple and perhaps best visited at night when it’s illuminated (although it’s lovely at any time of day).  It’s a peaceful site, nestled now amongst French Colonial buildings.  There are a few steps to climb but it’s worth it to enjoy the temple, the shrine and various statues and carvings and the interior is beautifully decorated

The entrance fee is just 1$ and you need no more than an hour to explore.

Phnom Penh Markets

Central Market (Phsa Thmei)

There are a few markets in Phnom Penh; each offer something different.  Phsa Thmei or Central Market (also sometimes called New Market) was established in 1937 and we were attracted to it because we’d read about the art deco building.

Inside the giant central dome you’ll find jewellery, watches and glasses.  Head off in any direction and find every kind of item you could ever wish to find; food, clothes, household goods, flowers, hair dressers, dress makers or nail bars. 

Russian Market (Tuol Tom Poung Market)

The Russian Market, or Tuol Tom Poung Market, so named from the 1980s when Russian expats shopped there.  It doesn’t have the Art Deco of the Central Market but it does have a huge array of souvenirs, arts and crafts.

Like the Central Market, there are several jewellers and gold-sellers, and this is said to be the best market to buy fabric.  You can also buy food and drink and just as in Central Market, the meat stalls might be a little challenging for some (aka me!)

Old Market (Phsar Chas)

Phsar Chas, or the Old Market, as the name suggests is one of the oldest markets in Phnom Penh.  This is a local market and retains much of its traditional atmosphere.  You can find fresh produce, seafood, meat, and everyday household items.

Old Market provides a glimpse into the daily life of Phnom Penh residents and is much less touristy.

Responsible Travel – Two Amazing Places To Visit In Phnom Penh

Daughters of Cambodia

This isn’t a tour but the Daughters of Cambodia is a great organisation and well worth supporting.  The Daughters of Cambodia is a charity created to “empower those trapped in the sex industry to walk free and start a new life, with healing, dignity, and the means to prosper.” 

Their visitors centre offers glorious little boutique shops and a spa; to support them just drop in and buy something!

Pour Une Sourir d’Enfant : For the Smile Of A Child

This is a very special charity and it is possible to arrange a private visit to their school where hopefully, if you visit, they’ll gently encourage you to support their cause.

Founded by Christian and Marie-France des Pallières 25 years ago after they discovered the Phnom Penh rubbish dump where thousands of children were working and living, the association PSE For a Child’s Smile has already saved 12,000 children from misery! (from their website)

For the Smile Of A Child is invaluable and continues to help children in need.  If you are looking for a way of giving something back to Cambodia then take a look at their website and contact them directly.  You can visit their school, learn about their ongoing projects and enjoy lunch in their restaurant.  You must book ahead but contact them for more information.  

What To Do In Phnom Penh At Night

I’m pretty sure that our idea of a good night out may not be the same as our kids but no matter, if you only have a few nights in Phnom Penh, we certainly recommend at least one or two of the following :

Bassac Lane

Once a leafy residential area, this is now home to many trendy bars and restaurants.   If you’re looking for night life in Phnom Penh this is said to be the place to come.  The narrow street is lined with bars and the sound of music from each bar clashes as you walk along.

This is definitely the domain of the young and trendy, not quite as large as Pub Street in Siem Reap, but we enjoyed a quick visit.  Bassac Lane comes really alive after dark so if you go early evening it’s going to be quiet.

Food Tour : Explore By Tuk Tuk

I can’t stress enough how great this tour is!  It’s more than food, it’s also a city tour. You get to enjoy LOTS of delicious Khmer cuisine and soak up the crazy atmosphere of the city at night.

If you’re nervous about trying the street food or you have food sensitivities then this is the perfect  tour you.  Trust us it books very quickly so book ahead and bring your appetite.

Mekong River Sunset Tour

I love a boat trip, I love sunsets and I don’t like to spend a fortune on tours.  This Mekong Cruise was like a match made in heaven for me!

A tuk-tuk collected us from our hotel. We sailed out from the Tonle Sap into the mighty Mekong and once on board they kept us topped up with drinks and fresh fruit.  We watched the sun slowly sink behind the skyscrapers of modern Cambodia and loved every minute.

Top Tip : Don’t wear heels as you’ll walk along planks to get to the boats.

The tour ends at the boat dock so if you take the tour on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday you can visit the Night Market (almost next door) after.  If not, use GRAB (Asia’s UBER) to call a tuk-tuk.

Phnom Penh Night Market

Head to the riverfront on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday between 5pm and 11pm and you’ll find the Phnom Penh night market; very much like a Cambodian version of Walking Street Night Market in Hanoi.

You’ll find an array of goods (including a lot of ‘fake’ designer goods).  You’ll also find food and street food vendors, clothing and arts, craft and souvenirs.  The Market is popular for locals and tourists alike and is a great opportunity to try a little street food, listen to local live Cambodian music and just soak up the atmosphere.

Soro Sky Bar| Vattanac Capital

We enjoy a nightcap in a Sky Bar.  For me it feels a little special, a little opulent and you get to enjoy amazing views.  Vattanac Capital Tower is a modern skyscraper, complete with shopping mall and home to one of Phnom Penh’s most prestigious hotels; the Rosewood.  It’s also home to the glass-walled Soro Sky Bar. 

If you don’t make it to Soro then try Eclipse Sky Bar on the 23rd floor of Phnom Penh Tower.  It offers award winning dining as well as the sky bar so you could book a table, have dinner, enjoy the views and have a night cap!

Tuk-Tuk Ride Across The City

We asked a Tuk Tuk to take us on a tour of the city at night.  We had no plan, but we had used this Tuk Tuk previously and he had been recommended by our hotel so we felt confident that he’d be good.

He drove us around the city, whizzing through the streets was great fun and we got to see the main sites all lit up and we really loved the ambiance of late night Phnom Penh.  This is a really great way to spend an hour and it costs just a few dollars.

Day Trips From Phnom Penh

If like us, you travel at a slower pace, then you may have time to take a day trip out of the city; here are a couple of worthwhile tours that we’d recommend :

Silk Island | Koh Dach

See a totally different, more traditional side to Phnom Penh on Koh Dach, or Silk Island (so named because of the silk-weaving communities that live here).  This little island on the Mekong has modern Phnom Penh on its skyline but offers a perfect contrast to the city.

After a short cruise we landed at Koh Dach and wandered into the main village square.  Our guide talked about village life, took us to visit the local primary school and we met a young family creating their own silk weaving business.

The bike ride isn’t difficult as the island is so flat.  You get to visit a few different local communities, learn about the life cycle of the silk worm and watch the silk being woven.  This is a really charming day and in total contrast to the bustle of Phnom Penh; we highly recommend this trip.

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre

I’m often reluctant to recommend animal centres but after some research I do believe Phnom Tamao is doing good work in difficult conditions.  It’s no secret that we loved our days with the elephants at Mondulkiri but if you’re not travelling north then today might be a great alternative.

The tour starts from Phnom Penh and whilst it isn’t cheap (adults 150$) it does include transport and lunch and you are making a donation to help this charity.  You can only book from the centre’s own website.

If you take the Behind the Scenes Tour, you’ll be with guides who are passionate and knowledgeable about the animals and they’ll explain the struggles they face. The sanctuary isn’t perfect but without the work of the Wildlife Rescue Centre these animals would probably die.  It’s a worthy cause and an interesting day.

Top Tip : Gluten free lunch was no problem so mention this when booking.

Khmer Cooking Class

Oh how we love a cooking class.  Sadly we didn’t have time for this one (but we did book a similar class when we visited Siem Reap).  If you have a spare half day this is a great way of learning more about Khmer culture and enjoying the fabulous fruits of your labour.  This was the best class we found; with the highest ratings across all platforms.

Best Hotels In Phnom Penh

I did so much research before we left home about where to stay in Phnom Penh.  I changed my mind several times mainly because there are some excellent choices!  In the end, I booked Pavilion and we LOVED it.  It was the right mix of small and personal and if you’re heading to Phnom Penh for a few days this is a great place to stay.

Top Tip : I recommend staying within a reasonable walking distance of the river and downtown but if you aren’t don’t worry, just use GRAB and let tuk-tuks take you around.

I spent hours on finding hotels so here’s my short list; it will save you a ton of research!#

Luxury Hotels In Phnom Penh

If there was ever a city to choose totally luxury and world class opulence then it’s Phnom Penh; Raffles Phnom Penh and The Rosewood.  Treat yourself!  You know you’re worth it!  

Great Hotels In Phnom Penh

This is an easy choice for a comfort stay.  There are lots to choose from but don’t bother searching because these are both fabulous.  The Pavilion felt like a little oasis in the city and Plantation has the same reputation.

Budget Hotels In Phnom Penh

We’re not looking for bunk beds but if your budget is tight the best hotel for you will be the beautiful La Chronique.  It has consistently high ratings so look no further!  If you do want bunk beds, a lively hostel in a great location then you’ll want Mad Monkeys; a guy on our Silk Island cruise raved about it.

Where To Eat In Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh has great restaurants.  It has a growing reputation as a foodie destination and review sites will wax lyrical about many options, but these are the ones we personally tried and recommend.

If you want to experience the amazing street food culture in Phnom Penh then here’s another shout for the amazing Tuk Tuk Food Tour. It’s a great way to try local cuisine (and crickets and bugs) and a great way of ensuring that I eat gluten free.

When To Visit Phnom Penh

Cambodia has two seasons; wet and dry.  The most popular time to visit is between November and April, during the dry season. We were there in January and February and had no rain.  If you don’t mind the daily downpour, we are reliably informed that April through to September tends to be quieter with less tourists.

If you arrive at the end of the rainy season you have the advantage of seeing the Tonle Sap (the worlds largest freshwater lake) at its fullest.  And you could find yourself some great travel deals as it’s the low season.

Nov	Dec	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr
31°C | 118mm	30°C | 32mm	31°C | 6mm	32°C | 9mm	34°C | 32mm	35°C | 72mm
May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct
34°C | 150mm	33°C | 151mm	32°C | 158mm	32°C | 159mm	31°C | 228mm	31°C | 260mm

When Is Monsoon Season?

75% of Cambodia’s rainfall arrives between May and October.  One of our guides told us that it doesn’t rain all day, it’s more of a huge torrential (windy) down pour and then it clears.  He also said the rain also brings relief from the hot temperatures too.

Important Festivals and Events in Cambodia

We were in Vietnam for Tet and the national holiday certainly impacted on our travels.  There are a few similar festivals in Cambodia that you should consider.

Khmer New Year – April (Also known as Choul Chnam Thmey)

This is a 3 day national holiday and, just like Christmas or Thanksgiving, everyone moves across the country to be with family.  Expect a strange mix of closed shops and restaurants whilst temples and attractions, transport and hotels will be extremely busy. 

There are lots of celebrations and in Phnom Penh they may be centred around the Independence Monument, Royal Palace, Wat Botum and Wat Phnom.  During the celebrations, revellers typically throw water at each other and passers-by and sometimes coloured powder.  All very harmless but you should be aware of the potential.

The Royal Ploughing Ceremony – May

This is an ancient celebration which takes place at the start of the rice growing season, where local priests foretell the outcome of the coming harvests.  This festival is highly regarded in Cambodia but unlikely to cause much disruption to your travel plans.

Bon Om Touk (Water Festival) – November

This festival corresponds with the end of the Monsoon season.  This water festival is a huge celebration and draws hundreds of thousands of visitors to the banks of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers. You’ll find traditional boat races, overcrowded streets, food markets, street vendors, fireworks, illuminated boat parades and general jollity and making merry. 

Getting Around Phnom Penh

We found travelling around Phnom Penh (and Cambodia) very easy and there are transport choices for every budget.  Gerry’s written a fabulous post about Getting Around Phnom Penh which offers a more details and options for a first time visitor.

Is Phnom Penh Safe for Tourists?

Yes.  However, it would be foolhardy to say that there is no crime.  We had read that ‘bag-snatching’ was prevalent but we never experienced it and we heard of pick-pockets but again never saw or knew of anyone impacted by this.  But nonetheless, we took precautions.

In short, take the same measures that you would in any busy city and don’t let it ruin your experience. We never felt any more at risk in Phnom Penh than at home in France.

Road Safety and Trip Hazards

I would say that the biggest hazard we faced was on the pavements and the roads.  The pavements are uneven, the roads have pot-holes and pedestrian crossings and traffic lights can be advisory. Traffic is crazy and cars, tuk-tuks and bikes jostle for their place on the road. Cars park in pedestrian areas which means that at times you are walking in the road.  You have to be alert.

We love to walk around cities and Phnom Penh is no exception, we felt safe at all times but do keep an eye on where you’re walking and be alert when crossing the road.

Is Phnom Penh Better Than Siem Reap?

No. It’s different. People go to Siem Reap to see the incredible temples at Angor Wat (as we did) but if you scratch the surface you’ll find the town offers more than temples.   We enjoyed both cities for very different reasons and honestly I wish we had allowed more time in both. 

It’s impossible to choose a favourite. If you only have time for one I guess the temples are pretty iconic but try to visit both, even if you only have one day in Phnom Penh it’s worth it.

So Is It Worth Visiting Phnom Penh?

Is Phnom Penh worth visiting?  Absolutely yes.  You can easily spend a few busy days here. It’s easy to get around, offers a lot of variation and has a great foodie reputation.  There are also more than a few stunning hotels.

A visit to Cambodia wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the nation’s capital.  I would also say go with an open mind.  Look beyond the chaos and embrace the friendliness of the local people and just enjoy the moment.  

Travelling Through Cambodia Or Vietnam?

We spent a few months in Cambodia and Vietnam. If you’re planning your own adventure you may be interested in some of our other posts.